Oil pressure relief valve

Oil pressure relief valve

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Discussion

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Sunday 25th September 2016
quotequote all
Whilst finishing off the heads yesterday I thought I'd renew some bits on the oil pressure side of things, just as a matter of course.
Looking at the spring, there was no way of knowing whether it's weakened or not. So I'll just get a new one. But sourcing one seems to be hens teeth'sville. None at Racetech, none at TVR parts, none at ACS-pro.... Where can I get one? Wish I hadn't bothered the bloody thing. That'll learn me rolleyes

As far as what was inside the bore, I'm not sure what it is inside, but none of it moves or seems to want to come out. So I left it. But is this assembly supposed to be serviceable? Strippable?

Any info greatly appreciated
Cad

chris52

1,560 posts

183 months

Sunday 25th September 2016
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You can't get them new I bought a used but known good full set (Spring plunger cap and Spring clip) from Tve Power a few weeks ago and then didn't need it so you can have that for what I paid think it was about £40 Andy said it was his last full set at the time hence why I got it. It turned out for me that the low oil pressure reading was a faulty sender.
Chris

Steve_D

13,737 posts

258 months

Sunday 25th September 2016
quotequote all
You can normally buy a kit that comes with spring, piston and copper seal washer.

The spring acts upon a piston down in the bore. If it won't come out then you may have a problem as it could be jammed closed, part open or fully open. Either way if it is not free moving then it will not be doing its job.

If the TVR suppliers don't stock them then plenty of Land Rover places do. I've just seen the spring for 45P on one site.

Steve

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

179 months

Sunday 25th September 2016
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V8 Developments will sell you an uprated oil pressure relief spring.

I've got one in my car.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies chaps, and the offer Chris.
Just had another look at the timing cover, and the piston does actually move up and down freely. So no issue there.

Think I'll buy the uprated one from V8. Thanks for the tip.
There is a bolt next to the relief valve bit, but it dowsn't appear to do much. Just looks like a drain hole confused

Sardonicus

18,957 posts

221 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
ChimpOnGas said:
V8 Developments will sell you an uprated oil pressure relief spring.

I've got one in my car.
I thought V8D just pack the PRV end cap Dave on the 2 V8D engines I have seen one very recent 5.0 build it just had a thick washer 3/4mm approx to up the pressure which is fine of course and works wink always was on the Fords etc worked on my rebuild 65psi hot at anything over 2 k rpm got it right 1st try fortunately as its a sod to assemble in situ, just to add this is with restrictors in the cyl heads oil gallery to reduce rocker gear oiling and put it where its needed most


Edited by Sardonicus on Monday 26th September 14:37

chris52

1,560 posts

183 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
Just a quick point here. Replacing or adjusting the pressure relief valve spring will have no affect on oil pressure if your oil pressure is low unless the valve is stuck open. The spring is set to open the valve at 60psi so if your engine is only producing 40psi you will see no additional oil pressure by uprating the spring.
Chris

Sardonicus

18,957 posts

221 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
chris52 said:
Just a quick point here. Replacing or adjusting the pressure relief valve spring will have no affect on oil pressure if your oil pressure is low unless the valve is stuck open. The spring is set to open the valve at 60psi so if your engine is only producing 40psi you will see no additional oil pressure by uprating the spring.
Chris
Of course wink for the same reason it wont make much improvement on idle either thats going to be down to the pumps condition and your bearing clearances ...... Sorry back on topic getmecoat


Edited by Sardonicus on Monday 26th September 14:39

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
Sardonicus said:
thought V8D just pack the PRV end cap Dave on the 2 V8D engines I have seen one very recent 5.0 build it just had a thick washer 3/4mm approx to up the pressure which is fine of course and works wink always was on the Fords etc worked on my rebuild 65psi hot at anything over 2 k rpm got it right 1st try fortunately as its a sod to assemble in situ, just to add this is with restrictors in the cyl heads oil gallery to reduce rocker gear oiling and put it where its needed most


Edited by Sardonicus on Monday 26th September 14:37
Apparently they have a smaller spring that sits inside the original, bit like double valve springs. They're sending one in the post smile

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

179 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
Sardonicus said:
ChimpOnGas said:
V8 Developments will sell you an uprated oil pressure relief spring.

I've got one in my car.
I thought V8D just pack the PRV end cap Dave on the 2 V8D engines I have seen one very recent 5.0 build it just had a thick washer 3/4mm approx to up the pressure which is fine of course and works wink always was on the Fords etc worked on my rebuild 65psi hot at anything over 2 k rpm got it right 1st try fortunately as its a sod to assemble in situ, just to add this is with restrictors in the cyl heads oil gallery to reduce rocker gear oiling and put it where its needed most


Edited by Sardonicus on Monday 26th September 14:37
I was with Rob when he fitted it, however.... I must admit I didn't actually see the thing although I did ask him if he used a double spring or a packer, he said no it was a stronger spring.

Rob actually popped it in without me asking as part of the job when he fitted my Stealth cam and JP timing gear, I have to say he and Ray were super thorough adding lots of little details like the OP spring at no charge.

The next thing that happened was my OP sender packed up, I suspect the extra pressure was the last straw for the old thing. Once I fitted a new correctly matched sender I got a rock solid 60psi at idle and like you 65psi at anything over 2k.

That cheapo EBay Chinese oil pressure sender I fitted 5 years ago worked right up to yesterday giving very accurate & reliable readings, in fact I only removed it because it had started to leak a few drops of oil that was only really noticeable if the car wasn't driven and sat in the same spot for a week or so.

So I fitted what looks like a superior quality American made one from Isspro, leak gone I'll see how many years I get out of this one smile






Edited by ChimpOnGas on Monday 26th September 18:52

Sardonicus

18,957 posts

221 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
caduceus said:
Apparently they have a smaller spring that sits inside the original, bit like double valve springs. They're sending one in the post smile
Ah thanks,possibly use a combination of both packer and inner spring then scratchchin

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
ChimpOnGas said:
So I fitted what looks like a superior quality American made one from Isspro, leak gone I'll see how many years I get out of this one smile





Edited by ChimpOnGas on Monday 26th September 18:52
Do you have a link for that please COG?

ClassiChimi

12,424 posts

149 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
caduceus said:
ChimpOnGas said:
So I fitted what looks like a superior quality American made one from Isspro, leak gone I'll see how many years I get out of this one smile





Edited by ChimpOnGas on Monday 26th September 18:52
Do you have a link for that please COG?
I'm not sure if this is the same make as the one a mate fitted to his Chim,

It didn't last long before showing strange readings so he replaced it!
Might be a good idea to let Dave do his test bed work for us first smile

I think it started leaking, I can't remember to be honest!


ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

179 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
ClassiChimi said:
I'm not sure if this is the same make as the one a mate fitted to his Chim,

It didn't last long before showing strange readings so he replaced it!
Might be a good idea to let Dave do his test bed work for us first smile

I think it started leaking, I can't remember to be honest!
They're all rubbish really and very 1960's technology, the design is flawed because it functions by virtue of hot engine oil acting against a rubber diaphragm.

The rubber diaphragm will fail eventually, often sooner rather than later, I was amazed when I got a year out of the cheap Chinese one, and astonished it lasted 5 years.

Car makers stopped using this diaphragm design years ago and for good reason.

The American made Isspro one was twice the price and feels better quality in the hand, but I doubt it'll last twice as long so I probably should have gone Chinese again rolleyes

Call these people...

https://technisolltd.co.uk/

And ask for an Isspro R8917-03.

Edited by ChimpOnGas on Monday 26th September 22:49

ClassiChimi

12,424 posts

149 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
Others have had success with them so I'm hoping in this case yours obviously works well Dave thumbup

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

179 months

Tuesday 27th September 2016
quotequote all
ClassiChimi said:
Others have had success with them so I'm hoping in this case yours obviously works well Dave thumbup
I found the Isspro R8917-03 some years ago and while I linked to it in a previous post I never tried one myself as my cheapo Chinese sender soldiered on.

I seem to remember back when I first suggested it at least one of us did try the Isspro R8917-03 and said it worked fine but being longer it was a little trickier to fit. This is certainly what I found when I fitted mine of Sunday, but it does definitely fit.

Since fitting the SC Power uprated engine mounts my engine sits about 4mm lower, this meant I needed to jack the engine by the same amount to get the Isspro R8917-03 started on it's threads, however once I'd screwed it all the way in and I'd carefully lowered the engine there were no clearance issues with the crossed chassis tubes that form a bracing "X" under the engine at that point, there's approximately 10mm of safe clearance which is fine.

The lower engine position has also meant I can no longer use the excellent and dimensionally longer V8 oil filters with their fibreglass filtration media, this is a real shame as I rate this filter and its technology. The only other filter I could find using the same advanced filtration media and is shorter is from Royal Purple, so I've fitted a 20-253 model that fits the Rover V8.



You can buy this oil filter in the UK from these people:

https://www.raceengineered.co.uk/products/2-253-ro...

There are a number of rather unscientific reviews online & on YouTube where this filter has been cut open and compared with a host of others, while these reviews are a bit amateurish the end result always shows the Purple Ronnie filter (as I'm now calling it) to be the best there is in terms of filtration media and quality of build.

Edited by ChimpOnGas on Tuesday 27th September 07:09

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

266 months

Tuesday 27th September 2016
quotequote all
Excellent. Thanks Dave.
I just want this almost rebuilt engine (finally putting the heads back on today!) to get the best start in life it can, so the cam beds in nicely and all the reworked surfaces stay that way. So whatever I need to do for a healthy oil system, I'll do. I do understand the Chinese Vs decent sentiment re the sender, but on the balance of things, I'll go for the best I can get and hope it lasts.
Thanks for the Purple Ronnie filter smile Seeing as the cam is going to be broken in and rings bedded in, etc, I'll use one for the bedding in period for optimum filtration.

What do people think of Carlube Triple R 10W-40 Semi Synthetic? It was suggested to me as a great oil for our RV8's. Anyone have any experience with using it? Or maybe this question should be in another thread scratchchin

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

179 months

Tuesday 27th September 2016
quotequote all
caduceus said:
Excellent. Thanks Dave.
I just want this almost rebuilt engine (finally putting the heads back on today!) to get the best start in life it can, so the cam beds in nicely and all the reworked surfaces stay that way. So whatever I need to do for a healthy oil system, I'll do. I do understand the Chinese Vs decent sentiment re the sender, but on the balance of things, I'll go for the best I can get and hope it lasts.
Thanks for the Purple Ronnie filter smile Seeing as the cam is going to be broken in and rings bedded in, etc, I'll use one for the bedding in period for optimum filtration.

What do people think of Carlube Triple R 10W-40 Semi Synthetic? It was suggested to me as a great oil for our RV8's. Anyone have any experience with using it? Or maybe this question should be in another thread scratchchin
I have responded to your PM Ged.

Dave.

Sardonicus

18,957 posts

221 months

Tuesday 27th September 2016
quotequote all
caduceus said:
Excellent. Thanks Dave.
I just want this almost rebuilt engine (finally putting the heads back on today!) to get the best start in life it can, so the cam beds in nicely and all the reworked surfaces stay that way. So whatever I need to do for a healthy oil system, I'll do. I do understand the Chinese Vs decent sentiment re the sender, but on the balance of things, I'll go for the best I can get and hope it lasts.
Thanks for the Purple Ronnie filter smile Seeing as the cam is going to be broken in and rings bedded in, etc, I'll use one for the bedding in period for optimum filtration.

What do people think of Carlube Triple R 10W-40 Semi Synthetic? It was suggested to me as a great oil for our RV8's. Anyone have any experience with using it? Or maybe this question should be in another thread scratchchin
I would use mineral oil for the 1st few thousand miles to be honest 15/40 20/50 etc

N7GTX

7,855 posts

143 months

Tuesday 27th September 2016
quotequote all
Sardonicus said:
caduceus said:
Excellent. Thanks Dave.
I just want this almost rebuilt engine (finally putting the heads back on today!) to get the best start in life it can, so the cam beds in nicely and all the reworked surfaces stay that way. So whatever I need to do for a healthy oil system, I'll do. I do understand the Chinese Vs decent sentiment re the sender, but on the balance of things, I'll go for the best I can get and hope it lasts.
Thanks for the Purple Ronnie filter smile Seeing as the cam is going to be broken in and rings bedded in, etc, I'll use one for the bedding in period for optimum filtration.

What do people think of Carlube Triple R 10W-40 Semi Synthetic? It was suggested to me as a great oil for our RV8's. Anyone have any experience with using it? Or maybe this question should be in another thread scratchchin
I would use mineral oil for the 1st few thousand miles to be honest 15/40 20/50 etc
^^^^^^ this is good advice. Powers used 15/40 mineral for the initial fill after the rebuild for its detergent qualities. On their advice (warranty and all that) I then used 10/40 semi synthetic, in my case Shell Helix but Dom said any quality 10/40 oil would do.