Cooling System - Bleed Valve mod.
Discussion
I've never been overly impressed with the heat from the heater in my car although it is more than made up for by the heat from the engine/gearbox and exhaust. When I removed the rocker covers recently, I disconnected the heater hose that runs from the metal pipe beside the flame trap on the driver's side to the inlet manifold. There was very little water in there so an air lock was my problem.
Looking at the engine layout, the 3 parts I needed to address were the heater pipe by the flame trap, the pipe between the inlet manifold and the swirl tank elbow and the swirl tank filler plug. These were the highest parts of the cooling system.
I bought one of these,
from:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38-mm-1-1-2-o-d-Brass-Ra...
I cut 1" approx out of the rubber pipe.
I decided to fit it as close to the highest point as possible which on my car is the top of the swirl outlet as shown in the picture below.
The alternative was to cut back part of the alloy pipe but I was unwilling to do this for the small gain in position. So I fitted decent hose clips and tightened them all down.
I removed the brass plug from the top of the tank and ensured it was full to the top then refitted it. Make sure the screw top on the expansion tank (behind the radiator) is tight or the coolant will drain down! This tank should be around half full.
I started the engine and let it warm up. I kept hold of the rubber pipe next to the new bleed valve. This ensures you know when the thermostat has opened as it gets too hot to hold. I then switched off the engine.
Carefully, I undid the screw on the new bleed valve a few turns. Steam and hot gas came out for a few moments and once there was a steady trickle of coolant I screwed the valve shut. I started the engine again and let it run for a while checking for leaks. I also felt the heater pipe beside the flame trap and found it was too hot too hold so all the air had now gone. Testing the heater inside the car and it was properly hot now for the first time.
This picture gives an idea of the relationship between the 3 components now.
This modification suits my engine layout and may not be suitable for your car if the parts are in different places. The principle is the same though so if you have trouble bleeding the cooling system, this idea may well work for you.
Looking at the engine layout, the 3 parts I needed to address were the heater pipe by the flame trap, the pipe between the inlet manifold and the swirl tank elbow and the swirl tank filler plug. These were the highest parts of the cooling system.
I bought one of these,
from:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38-mm-1-1-2-o-d-Brass-Ra...
I cut 1" approx out of the rubber pipe.
I decided to fit it as close to the highest point as possible which on my car is the top of the swirl outlet as shown in the picture below.
The alternative was to cut back part of the alloy pipe but I was unwilling to do this for the small gain in position. So I fitted decent hose clips and tightened them all down.
I removed the brass plug from the top of the tank and ensured it was full to the top then refitted it. Make sure the screw top on the expansion tank (behind the radiator) is tight or the coolant will drain down! This tank should be around half full.
I started the engine and let it warm up. I kept hold of the rubber pipe next to the new bleed valve. This ensures you know when the thermostat has opened as it gets too hot to hold. I then switched off the engine.
Carefully, I undid the screw on the new bleed valve a few turns. Steam and hot gas came out for a few moments and once there was a steady trickle of coolant I screwed the valve shut. I started the engine again and let it run for a while checking for leaks. I also felt the heater pipe beside the flame trap and found it was too hot too hold so all the air had now gone. Testing the heater inside the car and it was properly hot now for the first time.
This picture gives an idea of the relationship between the 3 components now.
This modification suits my engine layout and may not be suitable for your car if the parts are in different places. The principle is the same though so if you have trouble bleeding the cooling system, this idea may well work for you.
Edited by N7GTX on Tuesday 27th September 15:01
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