Gone and bought one !
Discussion
no worries, the lists I've made I can tell ya,, haha luckily half of them forgotten about when you go just get in and drive.
At the top of the list was wiring up the stereo,, that was 5 years ago, the engines been re built but the stereo still don't work,
Mans got to get his priorities right,,
You'll likely look in great detail at the car at the moment and every slight fault you might panic but most of them have or had these few faults replaced or fixed, there's an answer for most the issues that might come up.
Just keep taking stock and looking into the important bits.
Bushes are bound to wear out so that's nothing new.
Starting with the cooling system is possibly a blessing in disguise as getting that and the hoses all sorted will be a major benefit to the engine as I'm sure you know.
The temp gauge does or can go upto around 100 when heat soak takes over, just keep listening for the fans, if they are switching on then more importantly off then the actual water temp should be around 90, if your still not sure check the pressure of the water hoses, they will feel firm but bot bulging if temps are within limits. I also make a point of checking the expansion bottle has a consistent level of water in it when cold. If this level moves much you have an issue.
You'll find all this out when bleeding the system.
My tip would be to raise the front of the car on axle stands as high as you can when removing the rad, this will leave some water in the heater matrix and engine block, less chance of air locks,,, worked for me anyway
At the top of the list was wiring up the stereo,, that was 5 years ago, the engines been re built but the stereo still don't work,
Mans got to get his priorities right,,
You'll likely look in great detail at the car at the moment and every slight fault you might panic but most of them have or had these few faults replaced or fixed, there's an answer for most the issues that might come up.
Just keep taking stock and looking into the important bits.
Bushes are bound to wear out so that's nothing new.
Starting with the cooling system is possibly a blessing in disguise as getting that and the hoses all sorted will be a major benefit to the engine as I'm sure you know.
The temp gauge does or can go upto around 100 when heat soak takes over, just keep listening for the fans, if they are switching on then more importantly off then the actual water temp should be around 90, if your still not sure check the pressure of the water hoses, they will feel firm but bot bulging if temps are within limits. I also make a point of checking the expansion bottle has a consistent level of water in it when cold. If this level moves much you have an issue.
You'll find all this out when bleeding the system.
My tip would be to raise the front of the car on axle stands as high as you can when removing the rad, this will leave some water in the heater matrix and engine block, less chance of air locks,,, worked for me anyway
ClassiChimi said:
My tip would be to raise the front of the car on axle stands as high as you can when removing the rad, this will leave some water in the heater matrix and engine block, less chance of air locks,,, worked for me anyway
Excellent idea, less water on the floor too! never seems to go into the containers when the bottom hose comes off :-(
Aaaron radiator used to offer a discount if you mentioned pistonheads, I've had their alloy one a few years now and it's as good as new. Check the condition of the swan neck metal pipe attached to the bottom hose when you remove the radiator, they're pretty pants. Can remove the rad with fans attached, easier without though. I've used butterfly bolts on the bottom cowling fixings so that the fans are easy to remove and refit whilst the tad is still on the car.
Bleeding the system can be hard work, fill it from the swirl pot not the header tank. A john brown tractor sump nut fits nicely in the top of the swirl pot and looks better than that copper slot screw thing in my opinion. You might like to buy one for the sump too before you lose the sump nut on a speedhump like a few of us have
Bleeding the system can be hard work, fill it from the swirl pot not the header tank. A john brown tractor sump nut fits nicely in the top of the swirl pot and looks better than that copper slot screw thing in my opinion. You might like to buy one for the sump too before you lose the sump nut on a speedhump like a few of us have
s p a c e m a n said:
Aaaron radiator used to offer a discount if you mentioned pistonheads, I've had their alloy one a few years now and it's as good as new. Check the condition of the swan neck metal pipe attached to the bottom hose when you remove the radiator, they're pretty pants. Can remove the rad with fans attached, easier without though. I've used butterfly bolts on the bottom cowling fixings so that the fans are easy to remove and refit whilst the tad is still on the car.
Bleeding the system can be hard work, fill it from the swirl pot not the header tank. A john brown tractor sump nut fits nicely in the top of the swirl pot and looks better than that copper slot screw thing in my opinion. You might like to buy one for the sump too before you lose the sump nut on a speedhump like a few of us have
Is there a replacement for the metal swan neck ? Flexible hose? Why is it there?Bleeding the system can be hard work, fill it from the swirl pot not the header tank. A john brown tractor sump nut fits nicely in the top of the swirl pot and looks better than that copper slot screw thing in my opinion. You might like to buy one for the sump too before you lose the sump nut on a speedhump like a few of us have
A jb tractor sump nut? Any particular model !,, good place to look?
This is the one (I think) that fits the sump and the swirl pot. Comes with a washer built in.
http://www.mayhilltractors.com/index.php?route=pro...
http://www.mayhilltractors.com/index.php?route=pro...
Yeah that's the bolt, on ebay too. Act/racetech/someone does a stainless steel swan neck pipe, I just chemical metalled the weepy bits in mine and hammerited it though.
I had to use a bigger washer on the sump because it wept, but other people have had no problems and my sump has been redesigned by many speedhumps.
I had to use a bigger washer on the sump because it wept, but other people have had no problems and my sump has been redesigned by many speedhumps.
Edited by s p a c e m a n on Saturday 15th October 12:26
Ptr400J said:
Cheers for that , I'll get one ordered
Managed to get the pipes off the rad without getting a coolant shower.
Thought my feet felt sort of cold. ... must remember to position the collection tray in a better location next time
I had a container 3ftX2ft and still managed to loose half of it.Managed to get the pipes off the rad without getting a coolant shower.
Thought my feet felt sort of cold. ... must remember to position the collection tray in a better location next time
Edited by Ptr400J on Sunday 16th October 12:03
It hits a few things on its way
As a reminder it should take about 12 litres of liquid to fill from empty so if you have some coolant left in the heater expect slightly less but you'll need at least that while bleeding it out I'd say.
50/50 mix seems a good policy.
Ptr400J said:
Wow that's a fair bit, mind you when I did the rad on the TR8 it took nigh on that with a 3.5 v8
Take it that standard blue is the right stuff ...that's what came out too.
TR8 Take it that standard blue is the right stuff ...that's what came out too.
you'll enjoy the Tvr and it's engine bay immensely then Yup, nothing special, just good old blue
Well that's f****d it up
Sods law has just broken the last bolt on the fan cowl, bottom bolts rusted in the radiator base. .well actually I broke it I guess
if all eight bolts, four top and for bottom are removed does the cowl come away from the rad or is there something else underneath the cowl?
Like to try and arrive at the radiator repairers with something that looks like a radiator rather than a perforated colander
Sods law has just broken the last bolt on the fan cowl, bottom bolts rusted in the radiator base. .well actually I broke it I guess
if all eight bolts, four top and for bottom are removed does the cowl come away from the rad or is there something else underneath the cowl?
Like to try and arrive at the radiator repairers with something that looks like a radiator rather than a perforated colander
had enough today!Know how you feel.
I just spent three hours creating two 40m x 40m fields for my horses in a 30 acre hay field, using posts and electric fencing, horses watched my every move. Half way through some oaf turned off the electrics. Quick as a flash my 29 year old pony realised the electrics were off and escaped. Took me half an hour to catch the little bugger, so I am knackered. At my age (63) building paddocks is not my choice activity, but I love my horses.....
Now 3/4 of the way down a bottle of Grey Willy (Pinot Grigio to you), so feeling a bit more relaxed.
The TVR is at the menders, so cannot frustrate me. But it never does - I drive it every week, so it always behaves.b
I just spent three hours creating two 40m x 40m fields for my horses in a 30 acre hay field, using posts and electric fencing, horses watched my every move. Half way through some oaf turned off the electrics. Quick as a flash my 29 year old pony realised the electrics were off and escaped. Took me half an hour to catch the little bugger, so I am knackered. At my age (63) building paddocks is not my choice activity, but I love my horses.....
Now 3/4 of the way down a bottle of Grey Willy (Pinot Grigio to you), so feeling a bit more relaxed.
The TVR is at the menders, so cannot frustrate me. But it never does - I drive it every week, so it always behaves.b
Edited by QBee on Sunday 16th October 20:54
QBee said:
Know how you feel.
I just spent three hours creating two 40m x 40m fields for my horses in a 30 acre hay field, using posts and electric fencing, horses watched my every move. Half way through some oaf turned off the electrics. Quick as a flash my 29 year old pony realised the electrics were off and escaped. Took me half an hour to catch the little bugger, so I am knackered. At my age (63) building paddocks is not my choice activity, but I love my horses.....
Now 3/4 of the way down a bottle of Grey Willy (Pinot Grigio to you), so feeling a bit more relaxed.
The TVR is at the menders, so cannot frustrate me. But it never does - I drive it every week, so it always behaves.b
I just spent three hours creating two 40m x 40m fields for my horses in a 30 acre hay field, using posts and electric fencing, horses watched my every move. Half way through some oaf turned off the electrics. Quick as a flash my 29 year old pony realised the electrics were off and escaped. Took me half an hour to catch the little bugger, so I am knackered. At my age (63) building paddocks is not my choice activity, but I love my horses.....
Now 3/4 of the way down a bottle of Grey Willy (Pinot Grigio to you), so feeling a bit more relaxed.
The TVR is at the menders, so cannot frustrate me. But it never does - I drive it every week, so it always behaves.b
Edited by QBee on Sunday 16th October 20:54
s p a c e m a n said:
Done mine last week, they're just fiberglass boxes held on with those bolts top and bottom, nothing else securing them to the radiator
Great! Can feel a 7am start tomorrow and radiator into repair shop.
Just need to find one rubber mount now, it was missing on the leaking end.
The fibreglass is pretty thin where the bobbins fix to the body, hopefully it's not pushed through somehow.
Maybe it's simply missing, that might explain why the rads leaking, stressing on only one mount.
Take some pics and post on here if it's getting naughty, someone will add valuable experience and knowledge if you need it.
Replaced the cluch on the bike,,, I used to enjoy doing that many moons ago.
Maybe it's simply missing, that might explain why the rads leaking, stressing on only one mount.
Take some pics and post on here if it's getting naughty, someone will add valuable experience and knowledge if you need it.
Replaced the cluch on the bike,,, I used to enjoy doing that many moons ago.
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