Carbon Canister Removal
Discussion
Hi, I'm not planning to refit the carbon canister whilst the body is being refitted. I'll vent the tank with a filter at the back somewhere and it saves running new pipes etc. To the front.
Could anyone advise if I should remove the electronic valve and connect to the wiring? Will the engine management system detect a defect if I leave it disconnected?
I've read the previous threads on this but can't see any mention of the connector.
Thanks
Could anyone advise if I should remove the electronic valve and connect to the wiring? Will the engine management system detect a defect if I leave it disconnected?
I've read the previous threads on this but can't see any mention of the connector.
Thanks
ProjectChimaera said:
Hi, I'm not planning to refit the carbon canister whilst the body is being refitted. I'll vent the tank with a filter at the back somewhere and it saves running new pipes etc. To the front.
Could anyone advise if I should remove the electronic valve and connect to the wiring? Will the engine management system detect a defect if I leave it disconnected?
I've read the previous threads on this but can't see any mention of the connector.
Thanks
No problems just disconnect Could anyone advise if I should remove the electronic valve and connect to the wiring? Will the engine management system detect a defect if I leave it disconnected?
I've read the previous threads on this but can't see any mention of the connector.
Thanks
Petrol fumes reaching the Catt could get a bit explosive, I'm under the impression the fumes come from the canister back into the plenum and get re entered within the fuel mix so should ignite, maybe ignoring the canister on catted cars increases the fume percentage to dangerous levels and leaves residue in the Catt, thus slowly cooking the thing.
I think I'm understanding the principles now, cheers
I think I'm understanding the principles now, cheers
Sardonicus said:
Its to put the fumes through the intake were they can be burnt nothing do do with cats its so the tank dont vent to atmosphere, in my Honda dealer days Honda was using evaporative canisters even in the 70's along with other Japanese manufactures
That's what I thought 
Has or will the servo require any servicing Anthony, I'm finding my left foots going numb after a few hours driving and could do with lightening g the clutch pedal somewhat. Do you have any pics of it being installed or owt mate.
So far I've got a very sensitive throttle pedal, equally enjoyable light to use brake pedal with huge braking potential then I've got a clutch that leaves an imprint of the pedal rubber in my shoe and gets tiresome in traffic.
From a driver enjoyment point of view this servo mod could be one of those lovely touches that finally gives my feet a rest and moves the car on to a higher level of driving pleasure.
So far I've got a very sensitive throttle pedal, equally enjoyable light to use brake pedal with huge braking potential then I've got a clutch that leaves an imprint of the pedal rubber in my shoe and gets tiresome in traffic.
From a driver enjoyment point of view this servo mod could be one of those lovely touches that finally gives my feet a rest and moves the car on to a higher level of driving pleasure.
SILICONEKID345HP said:
When does the ECU decide to vent the fumes in to the intake ?
Been reading mpg can drop by removing the system.
[footnote]E
MPG does drop Daz because most people who get rid of it are modding their cars to go faster. IE more right footBeen reading mpg can drop by removing the system.
[footnote]E
Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Sunday 16th October 21:46
SILICONEKID345HP said:
When does the ECU decide to vent the fumes in to the intake ?
Been reading mpg can drop by removing the system.
[footnote]E
Usually when the ECU detects that the throttle is not on idle. As Simon says above, it is a way of preventing petrol fumes from simply being dumped to atmosphere (like old carb cars) mainly in city centres where there are traffic jams. Once the throttle is pressed, the ECU opens the carbon valve and the fumes are drawn into the intake and burnt in the normal way. As they increase the fuel to the engine, you use slightly less right foot and so save a little mpg.Been reading mpg can drop by removing the system.
[footnote]E
Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Sunday 16th October 21:46
caduceus said:
Darn, I didn't even think about this as part of the resto. I assume it's not as easy as just pulling the canister out is it.. What do you do with the pipes leading to and from it?
its the rubber hose from the panel behind the petrol filler cap runs to the front of the car along the passenger side then crosses over to the drivers side, then you have your hose from the drivers side inner wing nearest the front of the car, to the plenum. as i recall the canister can be accessed through the front grill ClassiChimi said:
Has or will the servo require any servicing Anthony, I'm finding my left foots going numb after a few hours driving and could do with lightening g the clutch pedal somewhat. Do you have any pics of it being installed or owt mate.
So far I've got a very sensitive throttle pedal, equally enjoyable light to use brake pedal with huge braking potential then I've got a clutch that leaves an imprint of the pedal rubber in my shoe and gets tiresome in traffic.
From a driver enjoyment point of view this servo mod could be one of those lovely touches that finally gives my feet a rest and moves the car on to a higher level of driving pleasure.
You have driven my car, Alun, so know how my clutch feels - about 40% less heavy. So far I've got a very sensitive throttle pedal, equally enjoyable light to use brake pedal with huge braking potential then I've got a clutch that leaves an imprint of the pedal rubber in my shoe and gets tiresome in traffic.
From a driver enjoyment point of view this servo mod could be one of those lovely touches that finally gives my feet a rest and moves the car on to a higher level of driving pleasure.
I don't have any photos of the installation process, and the car is away at Mat Smith's at the moment, so I cannot take any.
I seem from memory to have two brake-pipe thin copper pipes, which presumably carry the hydraulic fluid to and from the servo, and a vacuum pipe that connects to the top of the engine to make it work. IIRC it is an MGB brake servo, in order to be small enough to fit while being the correct ratio to work.Must have been a barstewaed to install.
Mat has a theory that it would work even better if the pipes were not so thin, but my knowledge of hydraulic systems is nearly 50 years old, so stopped when I was giggling in class at the thought of Archimedes' screw. So I didn't argue with him.
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