Engine won't fire. Any ideas?
Discussion
Steve_D said:
Glowing cherry red is not unusual when bedding in a new cam.
Steve
What causes it Steve? The ECU over-fuelling with the new cam?Steve
Is it worth investing in a strobe light to fine tune the dizzy timing or whatever it's called? The actual cam timing was done by V8D so I'm confident there's nowt wrong there. I was twisting the dizzy quite a bit today to find a relative happy medium but I imagine it's quite a bit off where it should be.
rovermorris999 said:
As it went away could the ecu have learnt new settings as suggested?
That's what I'm assuming. Either that or the unburnt fuel from the previous day's non firing attempts was burning off. Who knows.. But Steve did say this isn't uncommon when running in a new cam.That's reassuring then although I don't understand how a cam bedding in would cause it. Hopefully someone who knows a bit more will be along soon. Any unburnt fuel from the day before would be gone in seconds I'd imagine. The only time I've seen anything like it (other than high-performance cars at full chat) was when a coil pack went on my Subaru. The fuel burning in the exhaust made the turbo glow cherry red. Thankfully no damage though.
It can only be unburnt fuel from the cylinders burning in the exhaust to cause that heat I'd have thought. Try firing up today and see what happens. If it's some sort of ecu learning or whatever it won't do it again.
It can only be unburnt fuel from the cylinders burning in the exhaust to cause that heat I'd have thought. Try firing up today and see what happens. If it's some sort of ecu learning or whatever it won't do it again.
I don't think there is anything wrong it's just running the engine at 2500 revs for 20 minutes with no airflow through the engine bay. Any other time you are at those revs for a long period you are at speed on the open road.
The same applies to when you run a car on a rolling road....you stick a gert big fan in front of the car.
Steve
The same applies to when you run a car on a rolling road....you stick a gert big fan in front of the car.
Steve
Thanks for the replies. Will fire her up again later and check the temps and idle now cam is bedded in.
The question still stands though - Is it worth investing in a strobe light to fine tune the ignition/dizzy timing? Are they complicated to use? Never seen one being use in the flesh bizarrely enough.
The question still stands though - Is it worth investing in a strobe light to fine tune the ignition/dizzy timing? Are they complicated to use? Never seen one being use in the flesh bizarrely enough.
caduceus said:
Thanks for the replies. Will fire her up again later and check the temps and idle now cam is bedded in.
The question still stands though - Is it worth investing in a strobe light to fine tune the ignition/dizzy timing? Are they complicated to use? Never seen one being use in the flesh bizarrely enough.
If you're not in any hurry I have a strobe. They're a doddle to use.The question still stands though - Is it worth investing in a strobe light to fine tune the ignition/dizzy timing? Are they complicated to use? Never seen one being use in the flesh bizarrely enough.
Strobe is a tool well worth having.
You can get two basic types fixed or adjustable.
For both type you need to mark the front pulley by using Tippex to highlight the timing mark and also the fixed pointer on the timing case.
If you have the fixed type gun you highlight on the pulley the timing advance you want to achieve.
If you have the adjustable type you highlight TDC on the pulley.
To use you connect the gun to 12v and the sensor wire to the number one HT lead. When No 1 fires the strobe lights. If you shine that light on the pulley and the fixed timing pointer. If the timing is correct the line on the pulley will be in line with the fixed pointer.
The adjustable gun is the better tool. You use a dial on the gun to set the timing you want to achieve, point at pulley and adjust the dizzy until the marks align. The advantage is rather than set the dial point the gun at the pulley and adjust the dial until the marks align. You can now read what the timing is on the dial.
You will normally be setting the timing at idle but your dizzy has a mechanical advance mechanism which will advance the timing as the revs increase. This advance is said to be 'all in' at certain revs where it no long increases (probably around 3250 revs). The advantage with the adjustable gun is you can bring the revs up and measure (using the dial) how much and when the timing increases and stops increasing.
Steve
You can get two basic types fixed or adjustable.
For both type you need to mark the front pulley by using Tippex to highlight the timing mark and also the fixed pointer on the timing case.
If you have the fixed type gun you highlight on the pulley the timing advance you want to achieve.
If you have the adjustable type you highlight TDC on the pulley.
To use you connect the gun to 12v and the sensor wire to the number one HT lead. When No 1 fires the strobe lights. If you shine that light on the pulley and the fixed timing pointer. If the timing is correct the line on the pulley will be in line with the fixed pointer.
The adjustable gun is the better tool. You use a dial on the gun to set the timing you want to achieve, point at pulley and adjust the dizzy until the marks align. The advantage is rather than set the dial point the gun at the pulley and adjust the dial until the marks align. You can now read what the timing is on the dial.
You will normally be setting the timing at idle but your dizzy has a mechanical advance mechanism which will advance the timing as the revs increase. This advance is said to be 'all in' at certain revs where it no long increases (probably around 3250 revs). The advantage with the adjustable gun is you can bring the revs up and measure (using the dial) how much and when the timing increases and stops increasing.
Steve
Steve_D said:
Strobe is a tool well worth having.
You can get two basic types fixed or adjustable.
For both type you need to mark the front pulley by using Tippex to highlight the timing mark and also the fixed pointer on the timing case.
If you have the fixed type gun you highlight on the pulley the timing advance you want to achieve.
If you have the adjustable type you highlight TDC on the pulley.
To use you connect the gun to 12v and the sensor wire to the number one HT lead. When No 1 fires the strobe lights. If you shine that light on the pulley and the fixed timing pointer. If the timing is correct the line on the pulley will be in line with the fixed pointer.
The adjustable gun is the better tool. You use a dial on the gun to set the timing you want to achieve, point at pulley and adjust the dizzy until the marks align. The advantage is rather than set the dial point the gun at the pulley and adjust the dial until the marks align. You can now read what the timing is on the dial.
You will normally be setting the timing at idle but your dizzy has a mechanical advance mechanism which will advance the timing as the revs increase. This advance is said to be 'all in' at certain revs where it no long increases (probably around 3250 revs). The advantage with the adjustable gun is you can bring the revs up and measure (using the dial) how much and when the timing increases and stops increasing.
Steve
Thanks for the detailed and informative reply Steve.You can get two basic types fixed or adjustable.
For both type you need to mark the front pulley by using Tippex to highlight the timing mark and also the fixed pointer on the timing case.
If you have the fixed type gun you highlight on the pulley the timing advance you want to achieve.
If you have the adjustable type you highlight TDC on the pulley.
To use you connect the gun to 12v and the sensor wire to the number one HT lead. When No 1 fires the strobe lights. If you shine that light on the pulley and the fixed timing pointer. If the timing is correct the line on the pulley will be in line with the fixed pointer.
The adjustable gun is the better tool. You use a dial on the gun to set the timing you want to achieve, point at pulley and adjust the dizzy until the marks align. The advantage is rather than set the dial point the gun at the pulley and adjust the dial until the marks align. You can now read what the timing is on the dial.
You will normally be setting the timing at idle but your dizzy has a mechanical advance mechanism which will advance the timing as the revs increase. This advance is said to be 'all in' at certain revs where it no long increases (probably around 3250 revs). The advantage with the adjustable gun is you can bring the revs up and measure (using the dial) how much and when the timing increases and stops increasing.
Steve
I have borrowed a Snapon strobe light from a very kind specialist mechanic and will be doing this tomorrow.
I was told to set it at 10 degrees at idle. Sound about right? Also, do I need to hold the revs at 3250 and set it at 10 degrees again?
caduceus said:
Thanks for the detailed and informative reply Steve.
I have borrowed a Snapon strobe light from a very kind specialist mechanic and will be doing this tomorrow.
I was told to set it at 10 degrees at idle. Sound about right? Also, do I need to hold the revs at 3250 and set it at 10 degrees again?
10 degrees BTDC sounds good. I have borrowed a Snapon strobe light from a very kind specialist mechanic and will be doing this tomorrow.
I was told to set it at 10 degrees at idle. Sound about right? Also, do I need to hold the revs at 3250 and set it at 10 degrees again?
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