Chimaera Project

[Classic Chim]

lancepar said:

Thanks for the replies all helpful.

I'm going to replace the top body to chassis fixings.

In the bag of boot carpet pieces I have these two bits, they look like they have been wrapped round something and also have signs they
have had something resting on them.

Any Ideas where they come from originally?





Cheers

Are they the two flaps that cover the rear light lenses and wiring up or the two flaps behind the seats for the small cubby hole covers as they have Velcro at one end only.

[lancepar]

No, they are not the rear lamp covers, I have those.

Next time I pop down Central I'll check and see what's behind the seats but these don't have any hook or loop on them, unless it's fell off.
From the area where it looks like something has worn through, I would have guessed the Alloy fuel tank has been rubbing them.

Cheers

[QBee]

I think they are meant to hang down behind the seats to muffle those squeaky bum moments.....

[Steve_D]

They are not the covers behind seats.
Possibly end covers for the CD changer.

Steve

[lancepar]

HaHa,

Think I've solved it.

This is where I've stuckem, they fit perfik under the far left and right tank bottom ends.





Moving on to the next issue.

[lancepar]

Updates

Fuel tank in and a couple of gallons pumped round the pipes to check for leaks using a battery on the pump......all sound.

Decided to keep the plug extenders for the present as they look new and finished them with heat shrink and added some heat/insulation socks.





Now fitting the coolant system, 1st problem I can only find one fan, the other one I can only find the cowl, will need to ask PO what has happened to it.

The rad' pegs at the bottom sits in the body, bible says "add a soft washer", so I will.
I've found two bobbins for the top rad' fixing but only one horizontal slotted hole in the body on the passenger side. Very strange will ask the PO what the story is.
Should there be any material between the front of the rad' and the GRP aperture as mine has small holes around the periphery.

If the PO don't have the fan, what's the best source?

Cheers everyone.

Edited by lancepar on Monday 23 July 19:42

[Engineer1949]

rad need sponge between rad and body to seal the gap you can buy reels of it with double sided tape fitted to one side plus i have a spare fan should you need it ring me on 07765596575 for info.


john

[lancepar]

Thanks John,

I'll give you a bell.

Lance

[lancepar]

John,
Before I 'phone I've sent an email to you at BMS
Lance

[lancepar]

Silicone hoses

Finally worked out how the original coolant pipes were fitted but I'm fitting silicone hoses instead.
In the kit I have it would appear they need cutting down in length to suit, is this the norm, best way to trim?

Because the PO removed the heater, I don't see the point in joining the small outlet on the top of the engine to the lower return pipe to the rad', what you think?

[Steve_D]

It may be worth doing with a small restriction in the line so that trapped air can be vented and it will encourage water flow past the base of the thermostat giving it a better understanding of overall engine temp rather than a possible local hotspot.

Steve

[QBee]

Silicone hoses are always supplied too long, as the cars vary and too short causes grief.
I had my big elbow to the plenum cut by a nice man with a joinery workshop, on his big band saw.
But you can use anything sharp - so not an average politician.

[Sardonicus]

lancepar said:

Silicone hoses

Finally worked out how the original coolant pipes were fitted but I'm fitting silicone hoses instead.
In the kit I have it would appear they need cutting down in length to suit, is this the norm, best way to trim?

Because the PO removed the heater, I don't see the point in joining the small outlet on the top of the engine to the lower return pipe to the rad', what you think?

You will have to keep that link between inlet manifold stub and bottom radiator hose/pipe or you will damage your engine, the thermostat only functions correctly whilst coolant is flowing past without this thermostat bypass loop in place you will suffer erratic thermostat and flow behavior at best like Steve D mentioned already ........... Either of these will do for flow to water pump inlet/lower rad pipe

Edited by Sardonicus on Friday 10th August 17:04

[lancepar]

Thanks Guys,

All understood now and digested.
Now I get it. The original heater although when closed to cold, has a small bypass in the circuit under the dash that allows coolant to circulate.

Also I've discovered the small outlet on the manifold has been blanked off already and the larger one used when the PO ran the cam "in" before the body was refitted with a temporary coolant circuit,



Cheers

[lancepar]

Couple of more parts I'm missing.

One of these......


Also

I have the hydraulic manifold that fits in the tunnel side and after a visit to Central I see the picture frame that surrounds it and the fixings go through, is missing!

Any body got these and want to part with them, please get in touch.

Cheers

[STE VR]

I’m sure I’ve got a couple of the bonnet roller things knocking about. I’ll pop in the garage in a bit to have a look. If so, I’ll send them out to you tomorrow f.o.c.

Steve

[STE VR]

Found them. Put some stainless bolts with them too. Also found a brand new screen wash pump and a brand new wing grommet if you want those too?

Pm me your address and I’ll get them out to you.

[lancepar]

Bostin Steve,

PM on it's way.

Lance
.

[QBee]

I need a screen washer pump too. So you by any chance remember what it’s off please?

[lancepar]

Tony,

Screnwash pump, hold on you might be in luck if you want a preloved one.