Coolant issue.
Discussion
The water system has been annoying me for ages Peter, it's been bled enough times one way or another.
By me and Doms boys. Sat at idle when checking Mbe over and temps stable as hell and that was only weeks ago!
It's b
ksed let's be honest.
I'm sure that won't be the only plug with those deposits!
A nights sleep, processing the various noises, air or pressurised water system, thumping, rattling clanging then what sounded like a piston ring breaking after hitting something! Then nothing and quiet as a mouse, no smoke or steam, didn't want to use much power but did accelerate to check noises and did feel maybe 5% less responsive but very difficult to detect.
Started it this morning and it sounds ace! But that plug shows the damage has already been done by the look of it.
Big changes afoot. Sad day.
One final observation. When I met another Tvr madman, he has what sounds like a very nice Tvr to exchange some tyre's and first realised something's very wrong, I put my palm over both tail pipes, didn't think much of it but knowing how clean it normally burns, felt a bit wet, normally it's like nothing's coming out other than a great deal of heat!
Oh well. If someone can learn from these engine experiences it might save someone's engine lunching itself.
By me and Doms boys. Sat at idle when checking Mbe over and temps stable as hell and that was only weeks ago!
It's b
ksed let's be honest. I'm sure that won't be the only plug with those deposits!
A nights sleep, processing the various noises, air or pressurised water system, thumping, rattling clanging then what sounded like a piston ring breaking after hitting something! Then nothing and quiet as a mouse, no smoke or steam, didn't want to use much power but did accelerate to check noises and did feel maybe 5% less responsive but very difficult to detect.
Started it this morning and it sounds ace! But that plug shows the damage has already been done by the look of it.
Big changes afoot. Sad day.
One final observation. When I met another Tvr madman, he has what sounds like a very nice Tvr to exchange some tyre's and first realised something's very wrong, I put my palm over both tail pipes, didn't think much of it but knowing how clean it normally burns, felt a bit wet, normally it's like nothing's coming out other than a great deal of heat!
Oh well. If someone can learn from these engine experiences it might save someone's engine lunching itself.
Edited by ClassicChimaera on Thursday 30th March 10:33
Squirrelofwoe said:
Gutted to hear that Alun, me & Mike were only talking about you last night as we were discussing the possibility of another meet up soon 
Hi mate, ohhh the cars been rippin good recently too. Gutted ain't the word. Unless my numbers come up I'll be doing like a lot of owners seem to do, spend another fortune rebuilding it and chassis restore, then selling it cos I can't afford the repayments
I was only thinking the other day as I merrily drove along with slick gear changes making it feel brand new, it's never ever broke down, things failed or I went overboard and replaced things but only once did it stutter and stop. My fault I'd not connected coil wires securely. Nipped up and on my way again.
I've done over 30,000 miles in 5 odd years so I've had more fun than I could point a stick at but at what price.
Maybe enoughs enough and I should let someone else enjoy the benefits I've added to the car.
f
k that 
ClassicChimaera said:
Squirrelofwoe said:
Gutted to hear that Alun, me & Mike were only talking about you last night as we were discussing the possibility of another meet up soon
Maybe enoughs enough and I should let someone else enjoy the benefits I've added to the car.
f
k that In all seriousness you'll get it sorted, just think of the fun you've had in all those miles- and in any event whatever it costs will be significantly less than the depreciation you'd have suffered in something newer & not as interesting over 30k miles...
yes I'm an accountant
Squirrelofwoe said:
It sounds like you've been drinking some of that coolant chap!
In all seriousness you'll get it sorted, just think of the fun you've had in all those miles- and in any event whatever it costs will be significantly less than the depreciation you'd have suffered in something newer & not as interesting over 30k miles...
yes I'm an accountant
Keep talking In all seriousness you'll get it sorted, just think of the fun you've had in all those miles- and in any event whatever it costs will be significantly less than the depreciation you'd have suffered in something newer & not as interesting over 30k miles...
yes I'm an accountant
I kid myself barking on about how much this car costs as the individual bits aren't that expensive, it's just the total gets out of hand.
Edited by ClassicChimaera on Thursday 30th March 12:22
Judging from the facts, I find it difficult to believe it's a liner if the noise continues once you've stopped the engine. 
Equally, I find it unlikely that the liner would regain it's grip in exactly the right place, if it had previously let go when warm, once it has cooled again, such that you have a noisless engine once more when re-started from cold.
I know it's not quite the same but when the heat exchanger in my kitchen boiler packed up many years ago, the effect one Friday night in the depths of winter was to sound like a whole battalion of Panzer tanks was driving across the roof. Literally the whole house shook! This was the direct result of boiling water. (New heat exchanger (only) and all was well.)
Number 2 plug sounds ominous and perhaps some damage has been caused by some local overheating but the prospect of a dropped liner sounds unlikely, going by the facts. That said, I have no experience of dropped liners, so what do I know?
There are some good suggestions made by others on here though, which sound a lot cheaper. Good luck with this one.
Equally, I find it unlikely that the liner would regain it's grip in exactly the right place, if it had previously let go when warm, once it has cooled again, such that you have a noisless engine once more when re-started from cold.I know it's not quite the same but when the heat exchanger in my kitchen boiler packed up many years ago, the effect one Friday night in the depths of winter was to sound like a whole battalion of Panzer tanks was driving across the roof. Literally the whole house shook! This was the direct result of boiling water. (New heat exchanger (only) and all was well.)
Number 2 plug sounds ominous and perhaps some damage has been caused by some local overheating but the prospect of a dropped liner sounds unlikely, going by the facts. That said, I have no experience of dropped liners, so what do I know?
There are some good suggestions made by others on here though, which sound a lot cheaper. Good luck with this one.
Going through what you describe I think you overheated and the metal on the spark plugs is aluminium from the piston or from the head.
You said the temp gauge wasn't reading hot but clearly you were. If a liner had slipped even at 2000rpm the piston is up and down 30 odd times a second so that would be proper mullered, knackered rings and all sorts.
Make sure you are full of coolant and start the engine to get up to temp, shouldn't take too long and the electric fans should kick in soon after. Check your temp gauge and see what's it's reading as it warms up and when the electric fans kick in. It may be a faulty water pump as mentioned before.
If you do need any machining work carried out don't be afraid to ask. Just ask and I'm sure I can do most things
You said the temp gauge wasn't reading hot but clearly you were. If a liner had slipped even at 2000rpm the piston is up and down 30 odd times a second so that would be proper mullered, knackered rings and all sorts.
Make sure you are full of coolant and start the engine to get up to temp, shouldn't take too long and the electric fans should kick in soon after. Check your temp gauge and see what's it's reading as it warms up and when the electric fans kick in. It may be a faulty water pump as mentioned before.
If you do need any machining work carried out don't be afraid to ask. Just ask and I'm sure I can do most things
pb450 said:
Judging from the facts, I find it difficult to believe it's a liner if the noise continues once you've stopped the engine. Equally, I find it unlikely that the liner would regain it's grip in exactly the right place, if it had previously let go when warm, once it has cooled again, such that you have a noisless engine once more when re-started from cold.
I know it's not quite the same but when the heat exchanger in my kitchen boiler packed up many years ago, the effect one Friday night in the depths of winter was to sound like a whole battalion of Panzer tanks was driving across the roof. Literally the whole house shook! This was the direct result of boiling water. (New heat exchanger (only) and all was well.)
Number 2 plug sounds ominous and perhaps some damage has been caused by some local overheating but the prospect of a dropped liner sounds unlikely, going by the facts. That said, I have no experience of dropped liners, so what do I know?
There are some good suggestions made by others on here though, which sound a lot cheaper. Good luck with this one.
PB, you may be close to the truth there. Equally, I find it unlikely that the liner would regain it's grip in exactly the right place, if it had previously let go when warm, once it has cooled again, such that you have a noisless engine once more when re-started from cold.I know it's not quite the same but when the heat exchanger in my kitchen boiler packed up many years ago, the effect one Friday night in the depths of winter was to sound like a whole battalion of Panzer tanks was driving across the roof. Literally the whole house shook! This was the direct result of boiling water. (New heat exchanger (only) and all was well.)
Number 2 plug sounds ominous and perhaps some damage has been caused by some local overheating but the prospect of a dropped liner sounds unlikely, going by the facts. That said, I have no experience of dropped liners, so what do I know?
There are some good suggestions made by others on here though, which sound a lot cheaper. Good luck with this one.
I'm inclined to bleed the water system as it's obviously got air in it. The question will still remain why have I got air in it!
Guessing isn't an option so I have to let experts form an opinion and go from there.
Any and all pointers and advice or thoughts are welcome as it's all good knowledge.
I did have what now sounds like extra airintske at the plenum, breather pipes forcing engine gases under pressure up and through intake system. Hmmm.
I better look for another paper round
Just see this Alun those bangs you was getting are almost certainly air/steam pockets like Steve D already suggested you must be loosing coolant 
but remember this even if you have slight water loss the 1st thing to be uncovered is the cylinder heads they get a kick-in 
the most cooling wanting part of your motor, the temp gauge will only indicate coolant/water temp if its submerged its accuracy will always be hit and miss if anything other than ... i.e steam or hot air, are you sure that the s. plug as metal deposit on it though? because that would mean a failed piston which will mean its got fking hot and the coolant level must of been really low the 1st indication of low coolant is the heater stop blowing hot generally, if it turns out the piston as picked up or melted its crown I am not sure I could trust that block again without a top hat liner repair frankly, to get a piston to fail due to over heating takes some doing on the RV8 especially just street driving
those bangs you was getting are almost certainly air/steam pockets like Steve D already suggested you must be loosing coolant but remember this even if you have slight water loss the 1st thing to be uncovered is the cylinder heads they get a kick-in the most cooling wanting part of your motor, the temp gauge will only indicate coolant/water temp if its submerged its accuracy will always be hit and miss if anything other than ... i.e steam or hot air, are you sure that the s. plug as metal deposit on it though? because that would mean a failed piston which will mean its got fking hot and the coolant level must of been really low the 1st indication of low coolant is the heater stop blowing hot generally, if it turns out the piston as picked up or melted its crown I am not sure I could trust that block again without a top hat liner repair frankly, to get a piston to fail due to over heating takes some doing on the RV8 especially just street driving Sardonicus said:
Just see this Alun those bangs you was getting are almost certainly air/steam pockets like Steve D already suggested you must be loosing coolant but remember this even if you have slight water loss the 1st thing to be uncovered is the cylinder heads they get a kick-in the most cooling wanting part of your motor, the temp gauge will only indicate coolant/water temp if its submerged its accuracy will always be hit and miss if anything other than ... i.e steam or hot air, are you sure that the s. plug as metal deposit on it though? because that would mean a failed piston which will mean its got fking hot and the coolant level must of been really low the 1st indication of low coolant is the heater stop blowing hot generally, if it turns out the piston as picked up or melted its crown I am not sure I could trust that block again without a top hat liner repair frankly, to get a piston to fail due to over heating takes some doing on the RV8 especially just street driving
Hear what your saying Simon. those bangs you was getting are almost certainly air/steam pockets like Steve D already suggested you must be loosing coolant but remember this even if you have slight water loss the 1st thing to be uncovered is the cylinder heads they get a kick-in the most cooling wanting part of your motor, the temp gauge will only indicate coolant/water temp if its submerged its accuracy will always be hit and miss if anything other than ... i.e steam or hot air, are you sure that the s. plug as metal deposit on it though? because that would mean a failed piston which will mean its got fking hot and the coolant level must of been really low the 1st indication of low coolant is the heater stop blowing hot generally, if it turns out the piston as picked up or melted its crown I am not sure I could trust that block again without a top hat liner repair frankly, to get a piston to fail due to over heating takes some doing on the RV8 especially just street driving Swirl pot is full and I've added no water in months, levels are good and heater had been hot, but after yesterday's driving with low temps on the gauge I suspect low water levels in the inlet manifold area,swirl pot full on cold start up today!
Again deposits on plug could be deceptive.
A liner once slipped stays slipped!
Mines quiet as normal when I started it this morning.
Maybe it's running to cold! I rarely get pinks and tinks when it cools down as it never seems to get hot. Yesterday the hoses felt very hot.
I'll bleed the air out the system and take it over to Dom as soon as I can.
Thanks for that Simon
RobXjcoupe said:
Going through what you describe I think you overheated and the metal on the spark plugs is aluminium from the piston or from the head.
You said the temp gauge wasn't reading hot but clearly you were. If a liner had slipped even at 2000rpm the piston is up and down 30 odd times a second so that would be proper mullered, knackered rings and all sorts.
Make sure you are full of coolant and start the engine to get up to temp, shouldn't take too long and the electric fans should kick in soon after. Check your temp gauge and see what's it's reading as it warms up and when the electric fans kick in. It may be a faulty water pump as mentioned before.
If you do need any machining work carried out don't be afraid to ask. Just ask and I'm sure I can do most things
It's a great bunch of guys out there. Thanks Rob. You said the temp gauge wasn't reading hot but clearly you were. If a liner had slipped even at 2000rpm the piston is up and down 30 odd times a second so that would be proper mullered, knackered rings and all sorts.
Make sure you are full of coolant and start the engine to get up to temp, shouldn't take too long and the electric fans should kick in soon after. Check your temp gauge and see what's it's reading as it warms up and when the electric fans kick in. It may be a faulty water pump as mentioned before.
If you do need any machining work carried out don't be afraid to ask. Just ask and I'm sure I can do most things
Let's see where we are before I decide how to proceed.
Tvr are s
t but the blokes that own them are little gems. Thanks for the support to you and all who have text me with words of wisdom and friendship.
Alun
ClassicChimaera said:
Sardonicus said:
Just see this Alun those bangs you was getting are almost certainly air/steam pockets like Steve D already suggested you must be loosing coolant but remember this even if you have slight water loss the 1st thing to be uncovered is the cylinder heads they get a kick-in the most cooling wanting part of your motor, the temp gauge will only indicate coolant/water temp if its submerged its accuracy will always be hit and miss if anything other than ... i.e steam or hot air, are you sure that the s. plug as metal deposit on it though? because that would mean a failed piston which will mean its got fking hot and the coolant level must of been really low the 1st indication of low coolant is the heater stop blowing hot generally, if it turns out the piston as picked up or melted its crown I am not sure I could trust that block again without a top hat liner repair frankly, to get a piston to fail due to over heating takes some doing on the RV8 especially just street driving
Hear what your saying Simon. those bangs you was getting are almost certainly air/steam pockets like Steve D already suggested you must be loosing coolant but remember this even if you have slight water loss the 1st thing to be uncovered is the cylinder heads they get a kick-in the most cooling wanting part of your motor, the temp gauge will only indicate coolant/water temp if its submerged its accuracy will always be hit and miss if anything other than ... i.e steam or hot air, are you sure that the s. plug as metal deposit on it though? because that would mean a failed piston which will mean its got fking hot and the coolant level must of been really low the 1st indication of low coolant is the heater stop blowing hot generally, if it turns out the piston as picked up or melted its crown I am not sure I could trust that block again without a top hat liner repair frankly, to get a piston to fail due to over heating takes some doing on the RV8 especially just street driving Swirl pot is full and I've added no water in months, levels are good and heater had been hot, but after yesterday's driving with low temps on the gauge I suspect low water levels in the inlet manifold area,swirl pot full on cold start up today!
Again deposits on plug could be deceptive.
A liner once slipped stays slipped!
Mines quiet as normal when I started it this morning.
Maybe it's running to cold! I rarely get pinks and tinks when it cools down as it never seems to get hot. Yesterday the hoses felt very hot.
I'll bleed the air out the system and take it over to Dom as soon as I can.
Thanks for that Simon
you may be OK anyway dont panic When I first pulled over after 35 mins driving having heard the thumping sound and the flow through the hose from swirl pot to engine and the surges I instantly loosened the cap of the expansion tank( blue cap) to release pressure fully expecting to nip it very quickly as water would flow out. No pressure was there yet the engine moments before had this pulsing.
I didn't open the bung to the swirl pot until it had been left overnight to fully cool. Water in expansion tank and swirl pot was where it should be, namely half way up and full.
The second time I pulled over with the same thumping there was pressure from the cap and I simply closed it before water came flooding out.
Why did it have no pressure after a longish drive upto temps.
I'm about to try and keep my patience when bleeding the system now so let's see what I can discover.
I didn't open the bung to the swirl pot until it had been left overnight to fully cool. Water in expansion tank and swirl pot was where it should be, namely half way up and full.
The second time I pulled over with the same thumping there was pressure from the cap and I simply closed it before water came flooding out.
Why did it have no pressure after a longish drive upto temps.
I'm about to try and keep my patience when bleeding the system now so let's see what I can discover.
I'm fully expecting it to work properly then slowly air or something will pressurise the system and over a few weeks it will be the same again. This isn't the first time it's had air!!!!
Cracked block. Ahhh it's nonsense as I don't appear to have water or oil mixed and no loss of coolant.
I'll check the hose to expansion isn't blocked first. Thanks again Simon.
Cracked block. Ahhh it's nonsense as I don't appear to have water or oil mixed and no loss of coolant.
I'll check the hose to expansion isn't blocked first. Thanks again Simon.
ClassicChimaera said:
When I first pulled over after 35 mins driving having heard the thumping sound and the flow through the hose from swirl pot to engine and the surges I instantly loosened the cap of the expansion tank( blue cap) to release pressure fully expecting to nip it very quickly as water would flow out. No pressure was there yet the engine moments before had this pulsing.
I didn't open the bung to the swirl pot until it had been left overnight to fully cool. Water in expansion tank and swirl pot was where it should be, namely half way up and full.
The second time I pulled over with the same thumping there was pressure from the cap and I simply closed it before water came flooding out.
Why did it have no pressure after a longish drive upto temps.
I'm about to try and keep my patience when bleeding the system now so let's see what I can discover.
Alun like I said if you have no way of your cooling system venting i.e the small bore hose from swirl to expansion bottle it blocked etc no wonder you have been plagued with air locks this explains why when you cracked the cap nothing happened, seriously fella check that flow by removing the pressure cap an flexing the lower coolant hose with the system full and the swirl pot bung fitted you should see the level in the expansion pot fluctuate up and down if you dont you have a blockage either at the barbs or inside the 8mm hose that interconnects the res and the swirl pot, you cannot run a totally sealed not venting system it wont work, another give way is the coolant hoses collapsing when the engine cools down but thats not always certain I didn't open the bung to the swirl pot until it had been left overnight to fully cool. Water in expansion tank and swirl pot was where it should be, namely half way up and full.
The second time I pulled over with the same thumping there was pressure from the cap and I simply closed it before water came flooding out.
Why did it have no pressure after a longish drive upto temps.
I'm about to try and keep my patience when bleeding the system now so let's see what I can discover.
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