Discussion
...gets your Chimaera if you are stuck in traffic for 30 min? The temp of my chim (5 litre) went up into the 110 degrees. Is this normal?
And secondly, as I finally arrived, I turned the engine off and immediatly turned the ignition back on and suddenly the temp dropped to about 95 degrees. Now wich information is more accurate? With the motor running or just with the ignition on.
And secondly, as I finally arrived, I turned the engine off and immediatly turned the ignition back on and suddenly the temp dropped to about 95 degrees. Now wich information is more accurate? With the motor running or just with the ignition on.
Through the winter my 4 litre has never gone above 75, even stuck in heavy traffic and was normally around 65, but over the last couple of days the temp has risen to a steady 80 to 90. And in heavy traffic it seems to be around 95 to 100.
I'm not sure that the gauges in our beloved Chims are that accurate to tell the truth, one may read 90 and another read 110. Are your fans coming on? I think they're set to come on at 92ish. See what your gauge reads when they kick in. May give you an indication of how right they are.
I'm not sure that the gauges in our beloved Chims are that accurate to tell the truth, one may read 90 and another read 110. Are your fans coming on? I think they're set to come on at 92ish. See what your gauge reads when they kick in. May give you an indication of how right they are.
dannyboyo said: Through the winter my 4 litre has never gone above 75, even stuck in heavy traffic and was normally around 65, but over the last couple of days the temp has risen to a steady 80 to 90. And in heavy traffic it seems to be around 95 to 100.
I'm not sure that the gauges in our beloved Chims are that accurate to tell the truth, one may read 90 and another read 110. Are your fans coming on? I think they're set to come on at 92ish. See what your gauge reads when they kick in. May give you an indication of how right they are.
yes, the fans went on, but the temp was keep going up. That's what was frightening a little bit.
Funny have driven the car a bit in Winter and when stuck in traffic temp went up over around 100, drove it yesterday afternoon, beautiful warm weather, got stuck in traffic at Guildford and temp stayed around 90 just over, very happy bout that.
Maybe just the gauges but do the fans work better in warmer weather????
Maybe just the gauges but do the fans work better in warmer weather????
i was always disapointed with my previous chim in the cooling dept.when my fans cut in the temp would never reduce,only stabilise.i feared it would be even more of a problem on my griff,but so far it hasnt been.one thing i will be doing v.soon though,as a precaution,is to make the fans run faster by running them on different circuits as i found out on ph a little while ago.you can buy a kit from modwise for £25 to do this,but i bought all the components from my local motorfactors for £9!(quality stuff as well).the wiring is much simpler than i thought it would be so im looking forward to seeing what difference it makes.already have an otter switch that cuts fans in at 87-90 on dash gauge.hope this helps-mv
You need to check coolant regularly say every few 1000 miles and if down follow the detailed topping up instructions in hand book - two man job to do properly - must be 50/ 50 water antifreeze. + Get mod wise fan kit and poss small plate. mine was up to 72 max yesterday on long run. Over 90 I'd be gettinging it looked at.....
I also had a problem with temperature recently, the car was usually fine but sometimes on a longer run it would slowly heat up from 80-to near 100 (When I would stop) and even when cruising it would not go down. Radiator and coolant level was fine and the rad was hot so at first I thought it couldn't be the thermostat. However after a few weeks I decided to change it anyway - easy job just 2 bolts although swing the alternator up out of the way to make life easy - replaced with a new part and hey presto, problem solved. Car now warms up faster, never goes above 80 and drops to 72-4 on a cruise.
We are not suppose to advertise in gassing but I am sure PetrolTed will not mind if it prevents a few members having problems. The Rover engined cars suffer with heatsoak/overheating at low speed this weather. We can provide a kit to solve this. See our web site or call for more details.
the cooling system on mine has been a source of concern for some time. posted a thread a couple of weeks ago.
i got a bit worried after blowing a couple of fan fuses ( i do a commute which has a slow section ) and the temp went over 100 on a couple of occaisions. i switched off pretty quickly once i realised what was going on, and ( touching every available bit of wood ) i have seen no evidence that the HG has blown, so i'm a bit happier now.
the fans don't seem to cool the car, just keep the temp stable, as standard. the later cars have bigger slits in the bonnet ( i believe ) presumably to help hot air escape. i don't know how much difference a smaller plate would make - this would seem more effective at altering the temp when moving, as according to Mr Heath's Bible ( BUY IT ), most of the cooling air comes in underneath the front of the car ( where some cars have splitters fitted ).
Mod-Wise also do a kit to bring the fans in earlier at half speed and then kicks 'em over to fun flat out when the otter switch kicks in, and some say that this keeps the temp more stable, but i have no experience of it.
i got a bit worried after blowing a couple of fan fuses ( i do a commute which has a slow section ) and the temp went over 100 on a couple of occaisions. i switched off pretty quickly once i realised what was going on, and ( touching every available bit of wood ) i have seen no evidence that the HG has blown, so i'm a bit happier now.
the fans don't seem to cool the car, just keep the temp stable, as standard. the later cars have bigger slits in the bonnet ( i believe ) presumably to help hot air escape. i don't know how much difference a smaller plate would make - this would seem more effective at altering the temp when moving, as according to Mr Heath's Bible ( BUY IT ), most of the cooling air comes in underneath the front of the car ( where some cars have splitters fitted ).
Mod-Wise also do a kit to bring the fans in earlier at half speed and then kicks 'em over to fun flat out when the otter switch kicks in, and some say that this keeps the temp more stable, but i have no experience of it.
i am going to take a supply from the starter as well ( let us know how you get on - pics would be great if poss ), when i get around to it, to make more current available and this will prevent me from blowing the fuse as well ( i hope! ) as i will be switching in one fan and a relay, rather than 2 flipping great fans which effectively put a long bit of wire straight across the battery until the magnetic fields get going. this is why the fuse blows - it is not the running current that is a big deal but the switch-on current surge that kills 'em.
Mod Wise also do a fan over-ride switch which is connected in parallel with the otter switch. again this is to get the jump on high temperatures.
i have got some heat sensitive stickers from RS ( ta work ), and the temp has exceeded 99 when left to idle ( yesterday - t-shirt weather ) with bonnet closed, but did not reach 104. these were the closest temp readings i could get, and they have re-assured me a little, in that i at least know that the guage isn't lying to me ( at least in this temp range! ).
believe the figure given when the car is running. Steve Heath explained this in the other thread.
i understand your concern - none of us wants to have to lay out £3K on heads!
there are lots of threads on this, do a search and you will find some info, but i guess we're after a little re-assurance.
Mod Wise also do a fan over-ride switch which is connected in parallel with the otter switch. again this is to get the jump on high temperatures.
i have got some heat sensitive stickers from RS ( ta work ), and the temp has exceeded 99 when left to idle ( yesterday - t-shirt weather ) with bonnet closed, but did not reach 104. these were the closest temp readings i could get, and they have re-assured me a little, in that i at least know that the guage isn't lying to me ( at least in this temp range! ).
believe the figure given when the car is running. Steve Heath explained this in the other thread.
i understand your concern - none of us wants to have to lay out £3K on heads!
there are lots of threads on this, do a search and you will find some info, but i guess we're after a little re-assurance.
still going!
previous owner tells me that the car behaved this way when he had it, and i've doen about 15k in a year without any indication that it has been cooked, so i guess it should be ok. just writing that out made me feel better
i'd certainly be happier if the temp actually went down when the fans came on tho, hence starter mod.
previous owner tells me that the car behaved this way when he had it, and i've doen about 15k in a year without any indication that it has been cooked, so i guess it should be ok. just writing that out made me feel better
i'd certainly be happier if the temp actually went down when the fans came on tho, hence starter mod.
Hi all
Thanks for all the contributions and tips.
As a TVR driver in Switzerland where only a handful of TVRs are on the street, this forum really is a great help! And it convinced me to start the TVR adventure all over with a chim after the good experience with my S3C.
Thanks to everyone and if one of you is visiting Switzerland, I'm more then happy to provide some breathtaking routes to the mountains with a guarantee for many tunnels .
Thanks for all the contributions and tips.
As a TVR driver in Switzerland where only a handful of TVRs are on the street, this forum really is a great help! And it convinced me to start the TVR adventure all over with a chim after the good experience with my S3C.
Thanks to everyone and if one of you is visiting Switzerland, I'm more then happy to provide some breathtaking routes to the mountains with a guarantee for many tunnels .
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