Wiper motor probs!!!
Discussion
Oooo yeh forgot few to metion,
Already had to strip down drive rack and wheel boxes because weld on gearwheel in one of the boxes broke, so all that side of things has be overhauled and a+, many thanks for the concern thoght adrian.
Also ment to say svc link looks extremly promising too..
I'll keep you posted.
Andy
Already had to strip down drive rack and wheel boxes because weld on gearwheel in one of the boxes broke, so all that side of things has be overhauled and a+, many thanks for the concern thoght adrian.
Also ment to say svc link looks extremly promising too..
I'll keep you posted.
Andy
Hi Andy
As I said there was no way the gear can shear teeth unless the drive/pinion/wipers stop, so there had to be a fault on that front to be corrected. the gear as you now know comes a 2 part assembly and will need 4 rivets to put it together and in the correct orientation in regards the park switch lobe (LAP tell me that they no longer have the tooling to do this BUT say that this could be done by hand if you were careful). I have the assembly complete if LAP feel that it is too much trouble to sort. P.S. I think you will find that svc will be good for the rack (drive cable) and park switch as these are universal parts (I think their 14w brush set is too lightweight for the 29 watt motor) BUT almost to a man every TVR dealer and indie would have these on the shelf at the same sort of price.
Adrian@
P.S. Just a thought re the pinion breaking ....how did you get into the wiper cowling to solve the problem.
As I said there was no way the gear can shear teeth unless the drive/pinion/wipers stop, so there had to be a fault on that front to be corrected. the gear as you now know comes a 2 part assembly and will need 4 rivets to put it together and in the correct orientation in regards the park switch lobe (LAP tell me that they no longer have the tooling to do this BUT say that this could be done by hand if you were careful). I have the assembly complete if LAP feel that it is too much trouble to sort. P.S. I think you will find that svc will be good for the rack (drive cable) and park switch as these are universal parts (I think their 14w brush set is too lightweight for the 29 watt motor) BUT almost to a man every TVR dealer and indie would have these on the shelf at the same sort of price.
Adrian@
P.S. Just a thought re the pinion breaking ....how did you get into the wiper cowling to solve the problem.
Edited by adrian@ on Friday 2nd March 06:35
Hi,,
Well wiper motor on its way, but afriad as much as i didn't want to, have ended up going down the second hand route. Maybe i'll live to regret it, but was all getting complex and it seems parts and stock are getting like the hens teeth.
Regarding getting the drive out, wasn't going to say to save the my shame of my butchery antics, but however..
I removed wipers and all retainers then pushed rack down, then cut down 50mm from both outer edges of the passenger side hole, uses some special cleaning fluid from work which softend the fibreglass nicely then pulled the flap down.
Push drive rack along inside the cowling and then with a whole lot of wiggling and a bit of jiggery pokery you can pull the whole rack out. Tie some strong cord round wheel boxes before you put rack back in, just to make it easier to pull then through holes.
Softend fibreglass again pushed flap back then used strong fibre and resin to fill cuts and tidyed it all up.
Did contemplate going in from behind dash but rightly or wrongly opted for this way..
Wierdly looking forward to driving in the rain..
Andy
Well wiper motor on its way, but afriad as much as i didn't want to, have ended up going down the second hand route. Maybe i'll live to regret it, but was all getting complex and it seems parts and stock are getting like the hens teeth.
Regarding getting the drive out, wasn't going to say to save the my shame of my butchery antics, but however..
I removed wipers and all retainers then pushed rack down, then cut down 50mm from both outer edges of the passenger side hole, uses some special cleaning fluid from work which softend the fibreglass nicely then pulled the flap down.
Push drive rack along inside the cowling and then with a whole lot of wiggling and a bit of jiggery pokery you can pull the whole rack out. Tie some strong cord round wheel boxes before you put rack back in, just to make it easier to pull then through holes.
Softend fibreglass again pushed flap back then used strong fibre and resin to fill cuts and tidyed it all up.
Did contemplate going in from behind dash but rightly or wrongly opted for this way..
Wierdly looking forward to driving in the rain..
Andy
Andy,
Are you saying that you can pull the entire gubbins out from under the bonnet? (But with some cutting?)
Took my TVR out today and came back in the rain, wipers are making an odd noise so I've taken off the motor. A strange click every time the wipers are back into the rest position. Think it's the park switch.
Not much grease left in the mechanism and the park switch is corroded to b
y I'll clean and re-build but I did notice that the motor is working quite hard as it moves about in its mounting quite a bit. Like it's trying to wriggle free and bugger off somewhere else...
I've just finished a load of electrics and just put a new dash in so I'm not gonna take the dash off again for a long time
Dave
Are you saying that you can pull the entire gubbins out from under the bonnet? (But with some cutting?)
Took my TVR out today and came back in the rain, wipers are making an odd noise so I've taken off the motor. A strange click every time the wipers are back into the rest position. Think it's the park switch.
Not much grease left in the mechanism and the park switch is corroded to b
y I'll clean and re-build but I did notice that the motor is working quite hard as it moves about in its mounting quite a bit. Like it's trying to wriggle free and bugger off somewhere else...I've just finished a load of electrics and just put a new dash in so I'm not gonna take the dash off again for a long time
Dave
This has made for interesting reading, nearing home a couple of weeks ago my wipers suddenly went in different directions and stopped. The motor still turns fine but not with the wipers attached. When I pulled the arms off I saw the spindles are pretty much completely smoothed, hence the wipers going off at funny angles. Was hoping I could replace the spindles and arms alone but I don't hold out much hope!
caduceus said:
Where about is the park switch? I noticed my wipers stopped half way across the screen when I tried them...
There's a good write up here:http://www.chimaerapages.com/resources_wiper.php
All credit to Alex.
Just put mine back in. Park switch is working but I'll get another 2 just in case.
As it was out, I cleaned it up. Trouble is it makes the rest of the engine look c
p
Well it worked for a day and then stopped.
I think that it's stripped one of the gears in one of the wheel boxes.
The wheel boxes for sale at SVC look to have a parallel spline for the wiper arm, mine are definitely tapered. Any thoughts?
It took 10 minutes to get the dash back off and 10 minutes to drill out the rivets to get to the internal bits.
How does the rod/wheel box assembly come out? Do I have to stick my arms in the hole in the dash and simply dismantle it from there and then pull the bits out or is there a special TVR technique?
Cheers,
Dave
Update:
Got the gear out through the hole in the dash.
Neither of the two wheel boxes were stripped or seized but one definitely has a notchy feel when you turn it.
For reference this is the part number on the back of the wheel box.
Behind the dash there is a letter box piece of grp that is simply riveted in place.
This is space you have to work in
This is the detail on the back of the wheel box
Found some cheap ones here
http://www.leacyclassics.com/lu72965.html
New ones on order...
I think that it's stripped one of the gears in one of the wheel boxes.
The wheel boxes for sale at SVC look to have a parallel spline for the wiper arm, mine are definitely tapered. Any thoughts?
It took 10 minutes to get the dash back off and 10 minutes to drill out the rivets to get to the internal bits.
How does the rod/wheel box assembly come out? Do I have to stick my arms in the hole in the dash and simply dismantle it from there and then pull the bits out or is there a special TVR technique?
Cheers,
Dave
Update:
Got the gear out through the hole in the dash.
Neither of the two wheel boxes were stripped or seized but one definitely has a notchy feel when you turn it.
For reference this is the part number on the back of the wheel box.
Behind the dash there is a letter box piece of grp that is simply riveted in place.
This is space you have to work in
This is the detail on the back of the wheel box
Found some cheap ones here
http://www.leacyclassics.com/lu72965.html
New ones on order...
Edited by davelittlewood on Monday 28th April 20:48
Well it's all gone Peter Tong.
I got the new wheel boxes and assembled the system off the car and everything seemed to work OK.
The rack slid through nicely and the wheel boxes were nice and free.
Disassembled it and then put it back in the car with a new park switch, I wetted the screen to reduce drag and hit the button and....
The wipers got about 15 degrees and then an awful noise from the motor.
The worm gear was chewing through the drive gear.
It has taken a fair amount of the gear off, totally knackered....
I've had enough of this so I think the car is off the TVR Power for someone else to sort the thing. $$$$$
I got the new wheel boxes and assembled the system off the car and everything seemed to work OK.
The rack slid through nicely and the wheel boxes were nice and free.
Disassembled it and then put it back in the car with a new park switch, I wetted the screen to reduce drag and hit the button and....
The wipers got about 15 degrees and then an awful noise from the motor.
The worm gear was chewing through the drive gear.
It has taken a fair amount of the gear off, totally knackered....
I've had enough of this so I think the car is off the TVR Power for someone else to sort the thing. $$$$$
The plastic drive gear wheel in the wiper motor does wear and then it wont operate the long drive cable as you have found out. The problem is you cant get these plastic wheels any more for our wiper motors.
Adrian@ on here will refurb the motor for you. I think he is the only person in the world to have remaining stock of parts.
Alternatively just fit a 14W motor as i did. Straight swop. You can still buy new at the right price, the only downside is the sweep of the arms isnt quite as big. Hardly a problem tho. My new motor flies the arms across even a dry screen no problem.
Adrian@ on here will refurb the motor for you. I think he is the only person in the world to have remaining stock of parts.
Alternatively just fit a 14W motor as i did. Straight swop. You can still buy new at the right price, the only downside is the sweep of the arms isnt quite as big. Hardly a problem tho. My new motor flies the arms across even a dry screen no problem.
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