What sensor???

[neal1980]

Ive managed to snap the connector that sits behind the dizzy, does anyone know what this sensor is for?

Im assuming water temperature as the gauge is not working assuming Ive put the rest of the connectors in the right place.

Can anyone please confirm?
And a possible part no for replacment?

Many Thanks

Neal

[GreenV8S]

If it's a single stud sticking out of the inlet manifold, that's almost certainly the sender for the gauge. There are a couple of ECU sensors in the area but they use minitimer connectors (same as the injector plugs).

[prtvr]

A few pictures I took during changing my temp sender, it was a lucas SNB802
but I think you can fit another make intermoto ?

Phil

Edited by prtvr on Sunday 8th April 18:25

[prtvr]

The temperature sensor I changed feeds the engine management,
the gold probe in the first picture I think is the connection
you can use for a more accurate reading on your dash gauge
(needs a resistor fitting) if you have broke the original.

Phil

[neal1980]

That is not the sensor I have broken, its directly behind the dizzy a real pain to get to. Has a single spade connector going to it not a big plastic plug.

I will see if i can get a picture maybe if my camera decides to play..

Thanks

[prtvr]

OK, may be a good time to change to the spare sender, its located
next to the ecu sender unit, The original point is at the end
of a dead leg, so not very accurate.
on the first picture its the gold and green part that looks like
a bleed point, I think there was a mod wise kit to convert it,
basically a variable resistor, if you do a search you will find
all the details.

Phil

[peebee]

Neal, to clarify things - I believe the sensor that you have identified is the original sender for the temp guage. The other sender, identified in the photos above as a brass unit with a green ring around it, is an alternative sender that TVR didn't use but which can be utilised. Some say it is in a better position to give an accurate reading. To use the alternative sender you need to wire in a resistance (I belive this is around 200 ohms but you may want to do a search to check).

HTH

BTW if you can work out how to get to the original unit (behind the dizzy) without taking the dizzy out can you post it here - my temp guage rarely gets over 50 degrees and I want to check it out but can't even get to it to clean the terminal!

Edited by peebee on Monday 9th April 19:00

[Nuggs]

On a similar subject - my temp gauge was starting to behave erratically yesterday - so I think the sender may be due for replacement (after checking the connection!).

Does the SNB802 sensor also drive the gauge? I assume not as the gauge's misbehaviour didn't affect the idling characteristics...

If it's not SNB802 - what does the gauge take it's reading from, where is it, and what's the part number?

Thanks all

Edited by Nuggs on Monday 9th April 19:10

[that daddy]

peebee said:

Neal, to clarify things - I believe the sensor that you have identified is the original sender for the temp guage. The other sender, identified in the photos above as a brass unit with a green ring around it, is an alternative sender that TVR didn't use but which can be utilised. Some say it is in a better position to give an accurate reading. To use the alternative sender you need to wire in a resistance (I belive this is around 200 ohms but you may want to do a search to check).

HTH

Edited by peebee on Monday 9th April 18:57

Trust me you will be glad you did do the 200k mod,makes the reading so much more consistant and you dont get that daft temp drop on the open road where the standard one gets air cooled and tells lies because the sender is so low on the intake manifoldparts cost about £1.00 heat shrink and a soldering iron,or crimp if your not fussy.

[peebee]

I think you'll find that there are three temp sensors! There's the one for the guage, as discussed above, one for the ECU as photo'd above (a squareish connector) and the otter switch at the base of the swirl unit. I believe that they all work independently and so if your guage misreads but the fans come on then it's probably the guage/guage sender at fault (since the alternative would be a faulty otter switch and thermostat faulty simultaneously - possible but unlikely).

[peebee]

Thanks thatdaddy. Are you able to confirm the resistance required - you describe it as the '200k mod' - is it 200k ohms?

Edited by peebee on Monday 9th April 19:08

[Nuggs]

that daddy said:

peebee said:

Neal, to clarify things - I believe the sensor that you have identified is the original sender for the temp guage. The other sender, identified in the photos above as a brass unit with a green ring around it, is an alternative sender that TVR didn't use but which can be utilised. Some say it is in a better position to give an accurate reading. To use the alternative sender you need to wire in a resistance (I belive this is around 200 ohms but you may want to do a search to check).

HTH

Edited by peebee on Monday 9th April 18:57

Trust me you will be glad you did do the 200k mod,makes the reading so much more consistant and you dont get that daft temp drop on the open road where the standard one gets air cooled and tells lies because the sender is so low on the intake manifoldparts cost about £1.00 heat shrink and a soldering iron,or crimp if your not fussy.

Ahhh - I think you've just answered my post above TD

No idea about soldering/crimping/resistors/transistors, so I'll just ignore the erratic gauge (it was misbehaving at speed on the open road)...

[that daddy]

Nuggs its so easy, if it takes 5minutes, its one wire the resistor is not even polarity conscious,no dismantling one wire off crap TVR sender this little resistor inline on loom cable and plug in the Land rover sender done, you cant cock it up then pour yourself afor a job well done.

Edited by that daddy on Monday 9th April 19:32

[Nuggs]

that daddy said:

Nuggs its so easy, if it takes 5minutes, its one wire the resistor is not even polarity conscious,no dismantling one wire off crap TVR sender this little resistor inline on loom cable and plug in the Land rover sender done, you cant cock it up then pour yourself afor a job well done.

Alright TD, you've convinced me. Any chance of some brief step-by-step instructions?

[That Daddy]

How about a photo with the parts you need?

[Nuggs]

That Daddy said:

How about a photo with the parts you need?

Well - whatever you think's going to help. I'm very serious about getting my hands dirty and getting some DIY done on the TVR this Spring

[neal1980]

many thanks some great replys as usual.

The original one cant be seen in any of the photos it is well buried would def be interested in using the green one then which i have free. The old one had a spade connector so is it just a case of fitting this resistor inline then changing the end ?

Peebee theres no chance of getting it out without moving the distributor.

Thanks

Neal

[That Daddy]

neal1980 said:

many thanks some great replys as usual.

The original one cant be seen in any of the photos it is well buried would def be interested in using the green one then which i have free. The old one had a spade connector so is it just a case of fitting this resistor inline then changing the end ?





Neal

Yes that easy

[peebee]

TD can you confirm the rating of the resistor required?

Edited:done a search seems 120 ohms is about right but 200 variable allows fine tuning (not sure how you tune it though!)

Edited by peebee on Monday 9th April 21:56

[That Daddy]

200 ohm,but let me give you the exact spec i am back to work tomo so will confirm, my brother purchased two from maplins for this job.