Discussion
Just spoke to my local independent about servicing (Chim 4L) and they said they had changed their standard oil from Mobil 1 to Q8 Super 15W/40. This was recomended by their oil supplier who supplies all makes and grades as what he would recommend for TVRs. This was recommended over Mobil 1.
Anyone used this or thoughts on changing from M1 as that is currently the plan for service?
Anyone used this or thoughts on changing from M1 as that is currently the plan for service?
Q8 Super is a mineral oil, whereas Q8 Advanced is semi synthetic and Q8 Super Advanced is Fully Synthetic.
I use Q8 Advanced 10W/40 in my Griff and all seems well, doesn't use much between changes either.
If you stick to well known names you shouldn't go far wrong with quality, the grades you use is a matter of choice and there are numerous threads on here expressing various preferences.
As I understand it TVR have now done a deal with Carlube over sponsorship of the Tuscan Challenge and are recomending and using it in all models instead of Mobil - unless anyone knows different, that is......
I use Q8 Advanced 10W/40 in my Griff and all seems well, doesn't use much between changes either.
If you stick to well known names you shouldn't go far wrong with quality, the grades you use is a matter of choice and there are numerous threads on here expressing various preferences.
As I understand it TVR have now done a deal with Carlube over sponsorship of the Tuscan Challenge and are recomending and using it in all models instead of Mobil - unless anyone knows different, that is......
Q8 Oils is the brand name of lubricants supplied by the lubricant division of Kuwait Petroleum (GB) Ltd, which is an affiliate of Kuwait Petroleum International, which was set up in 1983 by Kuwait Petroleum Corporation, which is one of the largest oil corporations in the world! So - yes it does.
OK time to look a bit thick.
What is the difference (practical not scientific) between using mineral/synthetic. I know you shouldn't mix in the car but I have been using synthetic for the 12 months I have owned the car. I have a feeling I should stick to the same now it is happy with it.
Waiting to be corrected
What is the difference (practical not scientific) between using mineral/synthetic. I know you shouldn't mix in the car but I have been using synthetic for the 12 months I have owned the car. I have a feeling I should stick to the same now it is happy with it.
Waiting to be corrected
Basically synthetic oil will stay in grade longer and will withstand higher temperatures for longer, ie it won't go "off".
It's particularly suitable for very long service intervals. Some synthetics can stay in an engine for 100,000 miles (although filters still have to be changed regulary)and they are very good at keeping contaminated particles in suspension so that they don't settle and build up somewhere they shouldn't.
Also synthetics can be manufactured to give "thinner" characteristics when cold. The viscosity ratings on oil (10W/40, 20W/50 etc) show how "thick" the oil is when it is cold/hot, the lower the number the thinner it is.
As far as I know minerals can only get down to 20W when cold whereas part synthetics can get down to 10W and fully synthetics can get down to 5W or even 0W (although I think this is more a marketing figure as a thickness of nought must be non existant!)
Obviously the thinner an oil acts when it is cold the quicker it will get round your engine on initial startup.
Whether the qualities of synthetic oils are suited to a road car that has it's oil changed at low mileage intervals is a matter of opinion but at the end of the day you pays your money and you takes your choice.
Neil
>> Edited by neilmac on Thursday 5th June 23:26
It's particularly suitable for very long service intervals. Some synthetics can stay in an engine for 100,000 miles (although filters still have to be changed regulary)and they are very good at keeping contaminated particles in suspension so that they don't settle and build up somewhere they shouldn't.
Also synthetics can be manufactured to give "thinner" characteristics when cold. The viscosity ratings on oil (10W/40, 20W/50 etc) show how "thick" the oil is when it is cold/hot, the lower the number the thinner it is.
As far as I know minerals can only get down to 20W when cold whereas part synthetics can get down to 10W and fully synthetics can get down to 5W or even 0W (although I think this is more a marketing figure as a thickness of nought must be non existant!)
Obviously the thinner an oil acts when it is cold the quicker it will get round your engine on initial startup.
Whether the qualities of synthetic oils are suited to a road car that has it's oil changed at low mileage intervals is a matter of opinion but at the end of the day you pays your money and you takes your choice.
Neil
>> Edited by neilmac on Thursday 5th June 23:26
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