12 litres of coolant? mmm?

[drum4it2]

Please help.... I am educated - honest - but no mechanic!

As I have to wait 2 weeks for my first full service at a local TVR specialist since getting the Chim 4.0 a week ago, I thought I'd check out the cooling as the temp' gauge is constantly on 120 to off the clock! I did the logical checks - No coolant loss, level OK, no Mayo, Heater works, Thermostat sends the Rad' hot after a few minutes and car drives OK but is a bit lumpy (I figure it needs the service & a tune??).

So, I drained the coolant - found the expansion bottle was completely blocked with muck, cleared it, used Rad' flush - which came out quite clear! Upon following the re-filling procedures in both the Handbook & Bible found that I could only get 6 litres back in (although I didn't measure what came out) tried again, drained overnight and re-filled with 8 litres - drove 30 miles, steadily, no problems - got back & checked - no coolant loss, level the same, although some floaty bits in the swirl pot (mayo? not sure, didn't settle on surface though) temp gauge still going off the clock...

about to try & book in somewhere quicker but thought I'd ask you people first.... excuse the length!

[Incorrigible]

You need to know that the engine ISN'T reaching those temperatures, get to a garage that has a temp reader (laser thingy you point at the engine)

[Incorrigible]

I was going to direct you to a thread about this last week, but when I looked for it I found that you started it

Have you got a short memory or something

[drum4it2]

Incorrigible said:

I was going to direct you to a thread about this last week, but when I looked for it I found that you started it Have you got a short memory or something

no, I gave up the drugs a while back.... does it really matter if you start a new thread or re-post the old? Besides, this post has new info' and I'm a new member.... so there!

will be taking to a garage v.soon - do you have any thoughts on servicing at a main dealer? - was thinking of Castle TVR in Essex???

[Incorrigible]

Only joking

My guess is (STILL ) that the guage is wrong, but you (STILL) need to check it. It is possible to get a presurised system running @120 degs (not for long though, quite unhealthy)

Car like yours I would reccomend a specialist rather than a dealer

[Incorrigible]

Just read your profile, shame you weren't about a month ago, the PH band needed a drummer

[trefor]

Are the fans coming on?

From what you're saying it sounds like the cooling system is quite qunged up.

Remember, when you drained the system that you won't have got all the water out of the engine/heater matrix in the cabin etc, so I wouldn't worry about the quanitity of fluid you're putting back in.

120 degrees is one cooked engine - check the connections on the temp sender unit (top of engine, down behind the dizzy. Does the car overheat when driving along or when you are stopped?

I would not drive it until it can be looked at.

Have you tried another specialist?

T/.

[M@H]

If its really at 120 there's gonna be Steam and loads of it.. !!

I'd go with Inc. on the dodgy guage if it drives just fine and you don't have tons of heat pouring out of the bonnet (along with the steam of course)

Matt

[Incorrigible]

M@H said:

If its really at 120 there's gonna be Steam and loads of it.. !!

Not if the pressure isn't being released

The trouble is, when it does go, it's not going to be subtle

[M@H]

Incorrigible said:

M@H said: If its really at 120 there's gonna be Steam and loads of it.. !! Not if the pressure isn't being released The trouble is, when it does go, it's not going to be subtle

So whats the pressure cap for then.. the Blue one on top of the Swirl pot will be pushing the stuff out like a train if the whole systems at 120 degrees surely !?

Matt.

[Incorrigible]

M@H said:

So whats the pressure cap for then.. the Blue one on top of the Swirl pot will be pushing the stuff out like a train if the whole systems at 120 degrees surely !?

Yes that's exactly what the pressure cap is for. You also don't need me to tell you what the thermostat, temp sender, temp gauge, otter swicth, fan, radiator, water pump, heater matrix, or aluminium knob just behind the handbrake are actually for

Oh, an answer Only when it's working properly, if it's not releasing when it's meant to the first you'll know is when a hose bursts

[M@H]

Ben, do you know what the burst pressure on the Blue cap is by any chance ??

Cheers
Matt

Edited to add... yep, I was thinking about a hose bursting too.... ooo nasty.. !


>> Edited by M@H on Monday 7th July 14:24

[Incorrigible]

No, not exactly

Most systems run between 7 and 20 psi over atmosphere IIRC

Good point actually, if you remove the cap the system will boil @ ~105 (depending how much antifeeze there is in it) If it's not boiling and the gauge says 120, the guage (or sender) is fd

I'd still use a thermometer though

[trefor]

Guys, if he was running consistently at 120degs then something would have given by now. This is a TVR after all.

[Incorrigible]

trefor said:

Guys, if he was running consistently at 120degs then something would have given by now. This is a TVR after all.

Absolutely, but If the gauge is knackered what is the real temperature, could be 90 could be 110

[drum4it2]

Incorrigible said:

Only joking My guess is (STILL ) that the guage is wrong, but you (STILL) need to check it. It is possible to get a presurised system running @120 degs (not for long though, quite unhealthy) Car like yours I would reccomend a specialist rather than a dealer

no worries Ben... you've been most helpful here - shame I missed the drumming thing, I'm looking for a new band too!

As for the Chim - not driving at the mo' booked in for a full service with P.R Wood motorbodies - he gets a mechanic in to do the servicing - anyone know of their work?

Tried to get a few local mechanics to do the laser thing - but all were too busy or didn't have one! A friend suggested a small digital thermometer that has sensors and attach to swirl pot?? Might try for the hell of it - other than that will just wait till 19th for the service!!

One other question (hope I'm not having a Blonde moment here???) The hose that comes out from the swirl pot goes higher than the top of the pot itself - so, when re-filling with coolant how on earth can you fill that without air being present (or have TVR mastered anti-gravity??)

Thanks to all who posted - I am learning a lot but have a lot to learn, very kind of you for your time!

[ATG]

dead right that the swirl pot isn't quite at the top of the system, so finish the refilling with the engine running ... that should allow all the air out.

Uhm ... if you haven't managed to get 12 litres in and you're sure the system was empty to start with, I wouldn't run the engine for any length of time at all.

[drum4it2]

ATG said:

dead right that the swirl pot isn't quite at the top of the system, so finish the refilling with the engine running ... that should allow all the air out. Uhm ... if you haven't managed to get 12 litres in and you're sure the system was empty to start with, I wouldn't run the engine for any length of time at all.

Cheers Alastair... trouble is I don't know how much came out when drained? and as one of the other replies states - some may remain in the matrix etc? But it is scary... I will try topping it up with the engine running as it makes good sense - how come this isn't in the Bible I just bought??

[Incorrigible]

No need to top up with the engine running, the top of the swirl pot is above the top of the engine after all. After draining the system you should bleed the rad first, fill up the swirl pot and undo the bolt on the rad by the washer bottle, but I guess you already did that

[drum4it2]

Incorrigible said:

No need to top up with the engine running, the top of the swirl pot is above the top of the engine after all. After draining the system you should bleed the rad first, fill up the swirl pot and undo the bolt on the rad by the washer bottle, but I guess you already did that

I have tried that Ben - but I'm sure there is a fundamental error here... the top of the swirl pot is not at the top of the system, the top branch coming from the pot goes above the pot, as does the adjoining hose - surely a design error? How is it possible to pour water uphill? Which is why ATG said to run the engine/pump I presume....

However, ran it by the garage that will be servicing it next week, Phil Wood - top bloke, took a look, agreed on this air lock thing and suggested a new rad' but doubted it was running at 120 degrees! I tried again today to get a thermo' - no joy.... and I moved the front number plate lower today too, whilst I had the grille off, saw that the air filter is disgustingly clogged up - this car has been abused and the pr*** I bought it from needs a slap...

that's me done for tonight - lol