few niggles need sorting
Discussion
I have had my chim now for a few months, and love it to bits. however, i have a few little jobs, that really are starting to get to me.
biggest one,
wind noise and water leak through the windows. the seals dont seal against the window, and its letting loads of wind noise in when traveling. how can i adjust the windows to make a good seal?
and the fuel gauge, i can do 100 miles when full, without dropping the needle at all, then once below 3 quarter, it will bounce from light on empty toi 3/4 full again, making for a really irritating read out, and one frankly, i cant trust. is there a way of making this more accurate or fitting a new sender?
biggest one,
wind noise and water leak through the windows. the seals dont seal against the window, and its letting loads of wind noise in when traveling. how can i adjust the windows to make a good seal?
and the fuel gauge, i can do 100 miles when full, without dropping the needle at all, then once below 3 quarter, it will bounce from light on empty toi 3/4 full again, making for a really irritating read out, and one frankly, i cant trust. is there a way of making this more accurate or fitting a new sender?
On this thread there is a fix for your fuel gauge problem.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
T_Pot said:
I have had my chim now for a few months, and love it to bits. however, i have a few little jobs, that really are starting to get to me.
biggest one,
wind noise and water leak through the windows. the seals dont seal against the window, and its letting loads of wind noise in when traveling. how can i adjust the windows to make a good seal?
and the fuel gauge, i can do 100 miles when full, without dropping the needle at all, then once below 3 quarter, it will bounce from light on empty toi 3/4 full again, making for a really irritating read out, and one frankly, i cant trust. is there a way of making this more accurate or fitting a new sender?
Steve heath's book discusses how to adjust the window height to improve sealing, wind noise is always present in some form with the roof up though depending on speed.biggest one,
wind noise and water leak through the windows. the seals dont seal against the window, and its letting loads of wind noise in when traveling. how can i adjust the windows to make a good seal?
and the fuel gauge, i can do 100 miles when full, without dropping the needle at all, then once below 3 quarter, it will bounce from light on empty toi 3/4 full again, making for a really irritating read out, and one frankly, i cant trust. is there a way of making this more accurate or fitting a new sender?
Both sound a little 'They all do that sir' 
As long as the roofs on right the windows should seal slightly against the roof seal but at the end of the day the roofs only held down with velcro just behind your ear so there's always going to be a certain amount of wind noise, my old man has even ruled out a BMW Z4 due to wind noise, it's just a 'convertable thing' best solution is take the roof off.
My fuel gauge has always done the 'full full full.....empty' thing I've just lived with it, I used to watch the mileage and would know that 200 miles was the most I'd get from a tankfull, now I just fill up when the lights on, on level ground with the car stood still, but usually before that to be honest.
As long as the roofs on right the windows should seal slightly against the roof seal but at the end of the day the roofs only held down with velcro just behind your ear so there's always going to be a certain amount of wind noise, my old man has even ruled out a BMW Z4 due to wind noise, it's just a 'convertable thing' best solution is take the roof off.
My fuel gauge has always done the 'full full full.....empty' thing I've just lived with it, I used to watch the mileage and would know that 200 miles was the most I'd get from a tankfull, now I just fill up when the lights on, on level ground with the car stood still, but usually before that to be honest.
Window seals - 2 ways to adjust:
1. On the outside of the glass, where it enters the door, should be a brush to kepp out leaves etc. If you feel under this brush, about half to tw-thirds of the way back is a screw. This adjusts position up and down. A bit. And its a 5-star PITA.
2. If you take off the roof trim rubber, the channel in which they run comes off. Mine was held out with spacers, which were covered in silicone. So you can remove the channel, clean it all up, and then use spacers (nuts in my case) to lift the channel away from the roof, thus levelling it and adjusting it at the same time. Mine has different spacing front to back, for example. Once happy with the spacing, re-cover the join with black silicone to finish and hide the spacers. Its a bit fiddly but worked a treat on mine.
Rich
1. On the outside of the glass, where it enters the door, should be a brush to kepp out leaves etc. If you feel under this brush, about half to tw-thirds of the way back is a screw. This adjusts position up and down. A bit. And its a 5-star PITA.
2. If you take off the roof trim rubber, the channel in which they run comes off. Mine was held out with spacers, which were covered in silicone. So you can remove the channel, clean it all up, and then use spacers (nuts in my case) to lift the channel away from the roof, thus levelling it and adjusting it at the same time. Mine has different spacing front to back, for example. Once happy with the spacing, re-cover the join with black silicone to finish and hide the spacers. Its a bit fiddly but worked a treat on mine.
Rich
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff