Discussion
[quote=shpub]Sikaflex is great if you want something to seal and stick. Silicone selent is great if you want something to seal but not be quite so sticky... I use both depending on what I am doing. quote]
So would the silicone sealant stuff be more suitable for sealing the velcro (which may need to be separated and re-attached at some point in the future) or would Silkaflex be OK for this purpose?
If so would I get silicone sealant from the same shop?
BTW thanks for the gloves hint, Big Al!
So would the silicone sealant stuff be more suitable for sealing the velcro (which may need to be separated and re-attached at some point in the future) or would Silkaflex be OK for this purpose?
If so would I get silicone sealant from the same shop?
BTW thanks for the gloves hint, Big Al!
Just bought some Thompsons, and would like paint it on my Chim's roof tonight.
Couple of Q's:
1. Should the roof be absolutely bone dry before painting? (Hasn't rained today, but got a soaking last night)
2. How long should it be allowed to dry for? (Car sleeps in the driveway, so I need to know it'll have time to go off before the cold wet night sets in).
3. I presume the roof panel should be removed to paint separately... am I right?
4. Can I pour the stuff into my wife's favourite coco-pops bowl for easier application, then get told off and ignored for the rest of the evening?
Cheers.
Couple of Q's:
1. Should the roof be absolutely bone dry before painting? (Hasn't rained today, but got a soaking last night)
2. How long should it be allowed to dry for? (Car sleeps in the driveway, so I need to know it'll have time to go off before the cold wet night sets in).
3. I presume the roof panel should be removed to paint separately... am I right?
4. Can I pour the stuff into my wife's favourite coco-pops bowl for easier application, then get told off and ignored for the rest of the evening?
Cheers.
tobeee said:
Just bought some Thompsons, and would like paint it on my Chim's roof tonight.
Couple of Q's:
1. Should the roof be absolutely bone dry before painting? Yes
2. How long should it be allowed to dry for? as per tin about 6hours IIRC
3. I presume the roof panel should be removed to paint separately. Yes It can be done insitu but it can stick the rubber seals together and you may tear one when you next remove the hood.
4. Can I pour the stuff into my wife's favourite coco-pops bowl for easier application, then get told off and ignored for the rest of the evening? No
Cheers.
Hi all,
I'm new to the TVR world as of about 2 months ago and now own a 93 4.0L Chim and am loving it. Love the site, really useful stuff on here.
Only downside at the moment is the weather and a wet drivers footwell. Side carpets seem dry and I'm sure it is only after driving that the water is getting in as I normally put a cover on it, so I'm assuming it's coming from underneath or from the engine bay. I'll go round and check all the sealant in the engine bay as already suggested, thanks for that advice. Plus I've already noticed that the bottom right of the windscreen isn't sealed too well and when the wipers are going the waters appears inside so will have to seal that too with black sealant (may well be the cause of the problem actually!!!)
Just wanted to say that following a recent visit to Fernhurst I asked them about the velcro and flaps on the hood and how to re-attach them. They suggested sticking the velcro to the bodywork with superglue and to the interior with silicone sealant. I'm going to give it a go this week and then give the hood a few coats of Thonpsons/Fabsil or Renovo to keep her nice and protected during the winter.
Cheers all and enjoy ....
I'm new to the TVR world as of about 2 months ago and now own a 93 4.0L Chim and am loving it. Love the site, really useful stuff on here.
Only downside at the moment is the weather and a wet drivers footwell. Side carpets seem dry and I'm sure it is only after driving that the water is getting in as I normally put a cover on it, so I'm assuming it's coming from underneath or from the engine bay. I'll go round and check all the sealant in the engine bay as already suggested, thanks for that advice. Plus I've already noticed that the bottom right of the windscreen isn't sealed too well and when the wipers are going the waters appears inside so will have to seal that too with black sealant (may well be the cause of the problem actually!!!)
Just wanted to say that following a recent visit to Fernhurst I asked them about the velcro and flaps on the hood and how to re-attach them. They suggested sticking the velcro to the bodywork with superglue and to the interior with silicone sealant. I'm going to give it a go this week and then give the hood a few coats of Thonpsons/Fabsil or Renovo to keep her nice and protected during the winter.
Cheers all and enjoy ....
HongKongFui said:
Hi all,
Only downside at the moment is the weather and a wet drivers footwell.
Don't know if this is the problem or not, but I've heard that you can get water coming in around the seat bolts: you might want to seal around these if you suspect it's purely a result of spray when driving. Seems unlikely, though...
Thanks for the thread which has been really helpful, but a couple more questions:
Whats the best way to dry out behind the drivers seat?
Whats the best way of drying the parcel shelf?
My car is outside all the time, and tonight I soaked up the excess water, and tried a fan heater which did ok, but nothing great.
T-J-K
Whats the best way to dry out behind the drivers seat?
Whats the best way of drying the parcel shelf?
My car is outside all the time, and tonight I soaked up the excess water, and tried a fan heater which did ok, but nothing great.
T-J-K
the jiffle king said:
My car is outside all the time, and tonight I soaked up the excess water, and tried a fan heater which did ok, but nothing great.
T-J-K
If you manage to seal it up, it will dry out eventually.
Fan heater over the weekend would help!
Silica gel packets from B&Q would also speed up the process.
Keep putting DRY towels / rag under the carpets, again to draw out the moisture.
Word of warning about the fan heater scenario "Don't use an extension lead in a coiled up state for long periods of time. It is a potential fire hazard.
Hope you get it sorted. OH
Big Al. said:
Word of warning about the fan heater scenario "Don't use an extension lead in a coiled up state for long periods of time. It is a potential fire hazard.
At the risk of sounding a bit "Me Too" ish - BA is dead right here - an extension lead, even used at pretty low curents, can heat up considerably over quite short periods of time. You don't need to be drawing big power to do this. *ALWAYS* uncoil extension leads fully.
I pulled one out of a house that had been used to supply just a 200w exterior light and it was melted solid!!!
Phil
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