Moved battery to boot
Discussion
portzi said:
neal1980 said:
Looks Superb mate well done, makes it so much easier now 
I agree very neat job sir 
Mark
There are two female threads on the top rear of the chassis , made for roll bar anchor points ,im sure one of these could be used for a earth point .i don`t want to move the fuel tank..
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Saturday 7th January 22:52
Dickie Dastardly said:
Evening all,
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread however I am in the midst of fitting a battery (same as the one used by lotusandy) into the boot.
The one area I am still concerned about is the routing of the battery cables. To run from the boot into the passenger foot well then follow the old routing would require some 5mtr of +pos cable which seems extremely long. I notice from some of the comments that tyre tread came to a similar conclusion. Again apologies for the repetition but if the following could be clarified it would be very appreciated -
1. From the boot what route did the positive cable to the starter motor take?
2. What route did the negative cable take, was the original earth point at the front of the transmission tunnel used and if not what point was used for earthing.
3. There are smaller twin constant live feed cables from the battery to the back of the fuse box (on my car these reach an in-line fuse block just before the fuse box) - what route did these take and was the cable size also increased.
Any advice or photos would be great to put my mind at rest,
Thanks
Richard
Richard,Sorry for resurrecting an old thread however I am in the midst of fitting a battery (same as the one used by lotusandy) into the boot.
The one area I am still concerned about is the routing of the battery cables. To run from the boot into the passenger foot well then follow the old routing would require some 5mtr of +pos cable which seems extremely long. I notice from some of the comments that tyre tread came to a similar conclusion. Again apologies for the repetition but if the following could be clarified it would be very appreciated -
1. From the boot what route did the positive cable to the starter motor take?
2. What route did the negative cable take, was the original earth point at the front of the transmission tunnel used and if not what point was used for earthing.
3. There are smaller twin constant live feed cables from the battery to the back of the fuse box (on my car these reach an in-line fuse block just before the fuse box) - what route did these take and was the cable size also increased.
Any advice or photos would be great to put my mind at rest,
Thanks
Richard
I routed the positive cable along the floor by the side of the transmission tunnel on the passengers side, then I drilled a hole through the floor under the seat and fed the cable along the chassis to the starter motor terminal, this ensures the shortest length of cable.
I ran the negative cable along side the positive, then up to the original negative chassis point, but there is no reason why you could not attach it to any other good point on the chassis.
I extended the 2 cables that go directly to the fuse box with some cable around 10mm sq, you could replace them with 1 but I had some suitable cable lying around so I did both.
I'll see if I've some photos later if that would help.
Think I answered most other questions you may have over the history of this topic have a read through..
Andy
I ran my cable directly into the cabin space beneath the pedals (plenty of space and the pedals and feet don't go anywhere near the cable) through some trunking, under the side lip of the carpet (there is a recess that the cable tucks into nicely) and drilled a small hole into the cavity by the rear shell and looped the cable over the rear offside wheel arch and into the boot where I have mounted the battery in a home made cage in the lower offside corner of the boot behind the wheel arch as in my earlier pic:
It's inside the grey bag so it is out of sight, protected and insulated.
The whole cable runs inside the cabin minimising the risk from damage from debris underneath the car and of corrosion.
Tyre Tread said:
Here's mine.
It's inside the grey bag so it is out of sight, protected and insulated.
The whole cable runs inside the cabin minimising the risk from damage from debris underneath the car and of corrosion.
This is the one project I am going to do before putting mine back on the road.
So many questions.
I am looking at the loom going to the ECU and I have some wires going in to relays. However, I also have some plugs that look like they would hold relays and are empty. If I trace these wires back I am assuming they head to the fuse board and are redundant?
I predict a few 'what does this do'posts over the next few weeks
So many questions.
I am looking at the loom going to the ECU and I have some wires going in to relays. However, I also have some plugs that look like they would hold relays and are empty. If I trace these wires back I am assuming they head to the fuse board and are redundant?
I predict a few 'what does this do'posts over the next few weeks
I have found another alternative - I am having some work done at Sportmotive (yes its the outriggers) and asked Ian about moving the battery to the boot. His alternative is to fit 2 smaller batteries into the cubbies behind the seats. Work is being done in april, I will post up some pics of the finished job.
Dodsy said:
I have found another alternative - I am having some work done at Sportmotive (yes its the outriggers) and asked Ian about moving the battery to the boot. His alternative is to fit 2 smaller batteries into the cubbies behind the seats. Work is being done in april, I will post up some pics of the finished job.
I wondered about doing that too but I'm sure I remember something from back when I was into the car HiFi stuff about running two batteries in parallel and them then self discharging each other because of the slight differences in off-charge terminal voltage and internal resistance ... (... yes, I know I've done some monster multi-battery installs but they generally were used tethered to bloody great big mains powered chargers for most of their lives and maybe this was why.)
Perhaps someone can shed some light on this as to whether it's valid or not?
Phil
Bassfiend said:
I wondered about doing that too but I'm sure I remember something from back when I was into the car HiFi stuff about running two batteries in parallel and them then self discharging each other because of the slight differences in off-charge terminal voltage and internal resistance ...
(... yes, I know I've done some monster multi-battery installs but they generally were used tethered to bloody great big mains powered chargers for most of their lives and maybe this was why.)
Perhaps someone can shed some light on this as to whether it's valid or not?
Phil
I've done a fair bit of googling on the subject and as I understand it if the batteries are at differing charge states they will simply equalise. It seems that you need to replace both batteries if one starts to fail as you need to be sure they are identical, but other than that there shouldnt be any problems.(... yes, I know I've done some monster multi-battery installs but they generally were used tethered to bloody great big mains powered chargers for most of their lives and maybe this was why.)
Perhaps someone can shed some light on this as to whether it's valid or not?
Phil
Happy to be corrected if someone who actually knows about this stuff comes along (my knowledge is purely from google !)
Chaps,
About to order the battery for this, do I want this
http://www.odysseybatteriesonline.co.uk/odyssey/pr...
About to order the battery for this, do I want this
http://www.odysseybatteriesonline.co.uk/odyssey/pr...
MuffDaddy said:
Chaps,
About to order the battery for this, do I want this
http://www.odysseybatteriesonline.co.uk/odyssey/pr...
That seems to be the popular one... About to order the battery for this, do I want this
http://www.odysseybatteriesonline.co.uk/odyssey/pr...
SILICONEKID350HP said:
Bassfiend229hp said:
No idea - perhaps ask your insurance company? Plenty of cars with batteries in their boots that don't have kill switches ... why do you think you would need one?
Some guy had an experience with his insurance company after mentioning the battery relocation .Just a suggestion...
over_the_hill said:
Am I correct that the black cable with the corrugated cover is the battery to fuse board 12v live feed ?
Also I assume the connector in the middle is some sort of fuse holder ?
This is very short on my car and makes getting the battery in/out a right pain
That fuse holder is the 'other' 100 amp fuse. Also I assume the connector in the middle is some sort of fuse holder ?
This is very short on my car and makes getting the battery in/out a right pain
Discopotatoes said:
Tidy
cheers ! ran an accumate cigrete lighter cable in to the cupboard behind the passenger seat for the tom tom and charging ..Massive thick cable now fitted,all crimped ,soldered and heat shrunk ..and sleeved the live cable over the gear box , replaced all the old grounds from engine to gearbox .
Word of warning ,the engine to chassis ground in the nearside front wheel arch had completely disintegrated.. Fitted a real thick live to the fuse board using those pre soldered jointers
Edited by SILICONEKID350HP on Monday 3rd June 19:42
SILICONEKID350HP said:
Discopotatoes said:
Tidy
cheers ! ran an accumate cigrete lighter cable in to the cupboard behind the passenger seat for the tom tom and charging ..Massive thick cable now fitted,all crimped ,soldered and heat shrunk ..and sleeved the live cable over the gear box , replaced all the old grounds from engine to gearbox .
Word of warning ,the engine to chassis ground in the nearside front wheel arch had completely disintegrated.. Fitted a real thick live to the fuse board using those pre soldered jointers
What cable size did you go for?
Edited by SILICONEKID350HP on Monday 3rd June 19:42
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