Moved battery to boot

[Scoobysnax1963]

Hi,
looking forward to attempting it myself, hopefully it will look as good as yours. Just one question where did you get the bits (cables, clamps etc) from, as I am in Hamburg in Germany?
Thanx Mark

[lotusandy]

Mark,

I got the battery cables from here - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/kojaycatvehiclewiring the will make up battery cables to your spec.
The lengths I used are below,
Red cable Length 3M termination M6 end 1 M8 end 2
Black cable Length 2.6M termination M6 end 1 M10 end 2

The M6 ring ends go to the battery, the other ends go to the earthing point (M10) on the chassis and the starter motor (M8)
The Red cable was a little short, so I woul fo for a 3.5m lenght if I did it again.

Other bits were bought from Polevolt or vehicle wiring products.

Andy

Should have told you the cable size!
40mm 300 Amps BATTERY STARTER CABLE

Edited by lotusandy on Sunday 25th July 16:19

[MuffDaddy]

The fuseboard/battery move is on the list once my garage is built. Here's a question, any reason why the battery cannot live in the other cubby hole? Also is there any advantage in bringing the other relays from the dash into the footwell?

[Transmitter Man]

Richard,

You asked for some in Essex that's up for this job.

You may wish to contact; http://www.jenningsengineering.co.uk/

They are currently restoring my car (body off chassis) and would be more than able to do your job to a high standard.

I cannot recommend them highly enough.

They are very busy I warn you now

I can send you my PH link to the work they're doing on my car. Just pm me.

Phil

[Mr Plow]

Hi All

Looking to do this over the next week, I have ordered the battery over the weekend.

One question:

Is there a specific need to use the larger 40mm cable as opposed to the previous weight cable, I presume 25mm was used? I have plenty of 25mm cable in the garage so it would save ordering any more.

Cheers

[BenRelle]

The longer the cable, the more resistance it has. So in making the cable oversize compared to before, the guys who have done this are compensating for the extra length in the cable by making it bigger.

[phillpot]

Mr Plow said:

Hi All


Is there a specific need to use the larger 40mm cable as opposed to the previous weight cable, I presume 25mm was used? I have plenty of 25mm cable in the garage so it would save ordering any more.

Cheers

Two runs of 25mm ? May not look too tidy but would do the job.

[Tyre Tread]

Those of you who have completed this exercise can you please tell us what you would have done differently.

Also, will the fusebox move without lengthening all of the wires.

I am tempted to move just the battery and leave the fusebox, relays and ECU where they are

[Barreti]

Why do you want to move the battery Tyre Tread ?

I installed a smaller battery to give my long legged Le Mans navigator some more leg room.

[Tyre Tread]

I have the battery and have finally found the time today to investigate the cable routing.

For the live cable I have measured it from the starter motor, following the original routing until I pass through the grommet at the top of the transmission tunnel (1.5M) then back towards front of car to bulkhead, down to floorplan, across floorpan to outer sill, along sill to beneath seatbelt anchor point and through the sill, up into rear wheelarch and over into boot.

I measure this run as 5.1 metres in total. I notice Lotusandy mentions a run of 3.5 metres and wondered how it was routed. Anyone have any other ideas where routing the cable would be shorter and just as safe?

Any reason I can't use the seatbelt mounting point for the earth point?

Can someone explain the 40mm cable that someone- surely not its cross section as it would be huge.

[lotusandy]

From memory I ran the live back from the starter motor then crossed the transmission tunnel under the gearbox, then drilled a hole by the front of the passengers seat then back past my new fusebox location & up and back to the battery location.

The 40mm refers to the cross sectional area of the conductor, so this means the cable conductor is about 7mm dia, the overall dia is about 12.5mm.

[ralphy12345]

Tyre Tread said:

I have the battery and have finally found the time today to investigate the cable routing.

For the live cable I have measured it from the starter motor, following the original routing until I pass through the grommet at the top of the transmission tunnel (1.5M) then back towards front of car to bulkhead, down to floorplan, across floorpan to outer sill, along sill to beneath seatbelt anchor point and through the sill, up into rear wheelarch and over into boot.

I measure this run as 5.1 metres in total. I notice Lotusandy mentions a run of 3.5 metres and wondered how it was routed. Anyone have any other ideas where routing the cable would be shorter and just as safe?

Any reason I can't use the seatbelt mounting point for the earth point?

Can someone explain the 40mm cable that someone- surely not its cross section as it would be huge.

I've just completed a re-route and ran the new positive cable straight from the starter motor along the chassis and up into the boot via one of the three holes at the bottom of the boot, the negative is from a bolt on the rear chassis and through the same hole.

The wiring loom to the fusebox will stretch (just) to the passenger cubby-hole: I ran it along the top of the transmission tunnel:


The live feed to the box now runs from the cubby-hole under the rear carpet and through the bulkhead to the battery.

In the position above, the fuse-box relays protrudes out of the cubby by a half-inch:


So I'll build a small frame around the outside of the cubby and fit a hatch cover to it, the car's in for new carpeting this week so the new carpet can be adapted to the new arrangement.

Not only new carpets but a new hood too: so I'm running the original battery in the boot until I can afford a gel battery!

R

[tvrforever]

How much is such a conversion costing?

[Tyre Tread]

Thanks Ralphy. Daft as it may sound I hadn't considered running the live along the chassis rail. D'oh!

I've moved the ECU and relays into the void under the dash cover and I'm leaving the fusebox where it is for now.

[Tyre Tread]

Tyre Tread said:

Thanks Ralphy. Daft as it may sound I hadn't considered running the live along the chassis rail. D'oh!

I've moved the ECU and relays into the void under the dash cover and I'm leaving the fusebox where it is for now.

Hmmm.
Had another look tonight and I would prefer to run the live up along the top rail if I can. I took the exhaust guard off but access is not good to the top rail.

[Tyre Tread]

After removing the exhaust guard/anti twist plate, removing the anti roll bat and shearing both drop links in the process and dropping the exhaust, I have no decided that the top rail is not the way to go.

The route I am going to take is in through bottom corner of drivers footwell, across footwell below the pedals (loads of clearance) along the inner sill into the void by the seatbelt and over the rear wheel arch into the boot. Measure run is 3.7 metres.

This route will keep all of the love cable inside the car and protected. I've facricated a box for the battery to sit in and will be jhiding it inside one of the Tesco boot bags.

Can anyone suggest a god earthing point on the chassis rear without having to remove the petrol tank please?

[BliarOut]

Drop through the three vent holes (if it's the same as the Griff)

[Tyre Tread]

BliarOut said:

Drop through the three vent holes (if it's the same as the Griff)

The route out of the boot isn't a problem, its finding a good place to put the main earth connection.

I won't use the vent holes as exit point since it exposes the wire at the lowest bodywork point and therefore is more prone to damage from debris

[BliarOut]

The harness mounts under the rear shelf seem ideal then.

[Tyre Tread]

BliarOut said:

The harness mounts under the rear shelf seem ideal then.

Rob, sorry but give us a clue? Harness mounts?

I've just had a look and I can't see them. Can you explain where they are located please?