Moved battery to boot

Moved battery to boot

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SILICONEKID350HP

14,997 posts

232 months

Monday 3rd June 2013
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Discopotatoes said:
I don`t know ,purchased the whole lot from classifieds.

I can measure what I have left.

Discopotatoes

4,101 posts

222 months

Monday 3rd June 2013
quotequote all
SILICONEKID350HP said:
Discopotatoes said:
I don`t know ,purchased the whole lot from classifieds.

I can measure what I have left.
mm2 not length

SILICONEKID350HP

14,997 posts

232 months

Monday 3rd June 2013
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The copper core is 10 mm diameter

Bassfiend229hp

5,530 posts

251 months

Monday 3rd June 2013
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Discopotatoes said:
mm2 not length
That'll be 35sq/mm...

Phil

Discopotatoes

4,101 posts

222 months

Tuesday 4th June 2013
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thumbup

over_the_hill

3,189 posts

247 months

Thursday 6th June 2013
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Hedgehopper said:
over_the_hill said:
Am I correct that the black cable with the corrugated cover is the battery to fuse board 12v live feed ?
Also I assume the connector in the middle is some sort of fuse holder ?
This is very short on my car and makes getting the battery in/out a right pain
That fuse holder is the 'other' 100 amp fuse.
What gauge does that cable need to be. It looks like it has ring connectors on each end - one at the battery and one at the fuse holder. I would like to get a longer length cable for the fuse holder to battery.

Bassfiend229hp

5,530 posts

251 months

Thursday 6th June 2013
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TVR seemed to use 25sqmm for the heavy cables to the starter which is rated for a sustained 170amp load - there *SHOULDN'T* be any *NEED* to go thicker than that however some people have done and go for 35sqmm main runs ...

I'm probably going to use 35sqmm for my main run to the battery from the starter motor because I have moved the battery to the boot and want to minimise the voltage drop over the additional runs but in the footwell there shouldn't be a *NEED* to go thicker,

Phil

gpklewis

6 posts

124 months

Sunday 12th January 2014
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Having read this and other similar topics, I've spent some time re routing the fuse box to the cubby hole behind the passenger seat, routing the wiring under the centre console. I also took the opportunity to relocate the 'black box' and associated relays into the dash space above the removable glove box (bag). I used a Dremel to neatly cut off a little glass fibre to enable a nice secure fitting in the aforementioned glove box location.

Problem is, after putting everything back together, the alarm ( a Carl Baker upgraded alarm - the only place to get your TVR alarm sorted) is not working...

The dash lights come on, the battery light stays on after attempting engine turn over. The main issue is the little red flashing light on the immobiliser is not flashing. Will contact Carl - but does any one have a suggestion? When turn the key, there are no sounds coming from the fuel pump.

its as though the immobiliser is kicking in but at the same time there is no power going to the immobiliser switch? the buttons on the fob seem lifeless. Battery in the fob is good.

The car has been pretty dormant for a while - i took it for a short run last weekend but the battery did not fully charge.