Tools for manifold removal?

Tools for manifold removal?

Author
Discussion

STE VR

Original Poster:

500 posts

207 months

Tuesday 22nd September 2009
quotequote all
As the title really, can anybody advise on any handy/special tools that make life easier on removing the two manifolds before I take on the task this weekend?

chrispitman

742 posts

255 months

Tuesday 22nd September 2009
quotequote all
Buy a couple of cheap spanners (cant remember size) then you can bend them to get better access.

I fitted a set of ARP bolts, they are much harder material and have a smaller head making it eaiser to get a spanner on, most can be done with a ratchet spanner now.

rev-erend

21,430 posts

285 months

Tuesday 22nd September 2009
quotequote all
Regular ring spanners and a flat drive socket set.

Best advice is to loosen 1/4 turn each bolt .. then completely remove any akward access bolts,, then the easy ones.

Replace old bolts with the much nicer ARP bolts :
http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=222


RumbleBee

333 posts

207 months

Tuesday 22nd September 2009
quotequote all
Best thing I got for it was a reducer bit for my ratchet, so that I can use a tiny ratchet in a 3/8" socket. The little ratchet fits in ok, but the bolt size is usually larger socket.

dogbucket

1,205 posts

202 months

Tuesday 22nd September 2009
quotequote all
I am a tool addict so used these 3 babies. got all the bolts out from above.



Snap-on flankdrive plus 14mm SOEXM14 combination wrench - Open end has serrations that grip, not sure any other manufacturers make anything as good really

Snap-on 4 Way Angle Head VSM5214B - good for the lower front one where an open ended is needed

Facom straight ring spanner 59.14x15 - for the other lower ones particularly the back 2.


Edited by dogbucket on Wednesday 23 September 10:37

lewis_sharman

5,824 posts

192 months

Tuesday 22nd September 2009
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
Regular ring spanners and a flat drive socket set.

Best advice is to loosen 1/4 turn each bolt .. then completely remove any akward access bolts,, then the easy ones.

Replace old bolts with the much nicer ARP bolts :
http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=222

What size threads are these bolts? I can get stainless high tensile bolts from a certain source scratchchin

spend

12,581 posts

252 months

Tuesday 22nd September 2009
quotequote all
Best tool by far, is the old grey matter and realization that if the manifold is blowing continually tightening the bolts is only going to cause more problems hehe

Clean the threads out in the head, copper slip the bolts, torque them up properly and in the future you are unlikely to have any of the nightmares so often described on here..

Just be aware on some manifolds a couple of the bolts don't come out very far as they are kept captive and only have room to be undone as the manifold is loosened away from the head.

Simon Says

18,969 posts

222 months

Tuesday 22nd September 2009
quotequote all
lewis_sharman said:
rev-erend said:
Regular ring spanners and a flat drive socket set.

Best advice is to loosen 1/4 turn each bolt .. then completely remove any akward access bolts,, then the easy ones.

Replace old bolts with the much nicer ARP bolts :
http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=222

And some of these http://www.racestuff.co.uk/www.racestuff.co.uk/inf... wink


Edited by Simon Says on Tuesday 22 September 13:09

dogbucket

1,205 posts

202 months

Tuesday 22nd September 2009
quotequote all
Simon Says said:
lewis_sharman said:
rev-erend said:
Regular ring spanners and a flat drive socket set.

Best advice is to loosen 1/4 turn each bolt .. then completely remove any akward access bolts,, then the easy ones.

Replace old bolts with the much nicer ARP bolts :
http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=222

And some of these http://www.racestuff.co.uk/www.racestuff.co.uk/inf...wink


Edited by Simon Says on Tuesday 22 September 13:09
I agree, they work well; but if you use stainless steel bolts they need the stainless steel nordlocks as the standard ones on that page wont work (the teeth cannot grip the harder SS). I speak from experience..

Edited by dogbucket on Tuesday 22 September 13:27

STE VR

Original Poster:

500 posts

207 months

Tuesday 22nd September 2009
quotequote all
Gents, that is all excellent advice. ARP bolts are on the way already plus any excuse to buy new shiny tools is a plus! Many thanks. thumbup

GreenV8S

30,231 posts

285 months

Tuesday 22nd September 2009
quotequote all
lewis_sharman said:
I can get stainless high tensile bolts
Is that not a contradiction in terms? Stainless steel is inherently brittle. I understand that stainless steel and aluminium react rather badly together so probably not a good choice from that point of view. The lack of tensile strength wouldn't be an issue since they're hardly nipped up but we have enough grief with ordinary steel bolts seizing/snapping without using ones which are even more brittle and more prone to seizing.

lewis_sharman

5,824 posts

192 months

Wednesday 23rd September 2009
quotequote all
Never have bolts been more confusing headache

I think i will just try and be careful removing the old ones and re-use them if they are in good nick

ETA

I'm pretty sure they keep different grades at work for different applications confused , and they are all definately stainless because thats all we are allowed to use.

Another ETA rolleyes

ARP say - "Set of 16 Stainless Steel Hex High tensile bolts"



Edited by lewis_sharman on Wednesday 23 September 00:19


Edited by lewis_sharman on Wednesday 23 September 00:21

GreenV8S

30,231 posts

285 months

Wednesday 23rd September 2009
quotequote all
lewis_sharman said:
I think i will just try and be careful removing the old ones and re-use them if they are in good nick
The ARP K-head bolts are highly recommended anyway since they make access so much easier, combined with a 72-point ratchet it makes the job a heck of a lot easier.

lewis_sharman

5,824 posts

192 months

Wednesday 23rd September 2009
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
lewis_sharman said:
I think i will just try and be careful removing the old ones and re-use them if they are in good nick
The ARP K-head bolts are highly recommended anyway since they make access so much easier, combined with a 72-point ratchet it makes the job a heck of a lot easier.
But will the galvanic corrosion be a problem if you ever come to remove them again?

And is there any specific justification for the price?

lewis_sharman

5,824 posts

192 months

Wednesday 23rd September 2009
quotequote all
Or due to the access problem, could you use any large allen headed bolts?

Pupp

12,249 posts

273 months

Wednesday 23rd September 2009
quotequote all
lewis_sharman said:
But will the galvanic corrosion be a problem if you ever come to remove them again?

And is there any specific justification for the price?
Used them for years, coppaslipped with no issues at all. Worth their weight in gold smile

Pupp

12,249 posts

273 months

Wednesday 23rd September 2009
quotequote all
lewis_sharman said:
Or due to the access problem, could you use any large allen headed bolts?
Not a chance on the majority of the lowers

GreenV8S

30,231 posts

285 months

Wednesday 23rd September 2009
quotequote all
lewis_sharman said:
And is there any specific justification for the price?
Who cares? I mean, dude, just look at them; they're all shiny.

Pupp

12,249 posts

273 months

Wednesday 23rd September 2009
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
lewis_sharman said:
And is there any specific justification for the price?
Who cares? I mean, dude, just look at them; they're all shiny.
laugh

spend

12,581 posts

252 months

Wednesday 23rd September 2009
quotequote all
Glad to say I keep my nuts solely for screwing purposes, but if showing them off on the mantlepiece / through the front window is your thing....