Suspension Noises (Clack, Clack)
Discussion
Can anyone help me track down an annoying noise from my suspension (mostly front)
The noise can be best described as a "clack, clack" sound.
My guess is that this clacking noise is anti roll bar mount or ARB drop link related, or perhaps both?
The noise presents itself on lateral pitching or driving on very heavily rutted roads with camber changes.
I plan to polly bush the ARB mounts and fit rose jointed drop links to see if this helps.
But before I go ahead has anyone got any other ideas of what this annoying clacking noise could be?
The car has new Gaz Gold Pro dampers and all wishbone bushes replaced.
The noise was there before I changed the dampers and bushes, and it persists after so I may have spent unwisely?
The ARB link plates on the wishbones are not cracked like they can do sometimes.
A number of experienced TVR specialists have looked at it and can find nothing wrong.
The car had a full geo by Wheels in Motion after the Gaz Gold Pros were fitted and drives very well, WIM could also find nothing wrong.
Am I right to focus on the ARB area or does anyone here have any other ideas?.
The noise is quite loud and doesnt sound good at all.
I doubt it, but perhaps all Chims make this noise?
The noise can be best described as a "clack, clack" sound.
My guess is that this clacking noise is anti roll bar mount or ARB drop link related, or perhaps both?
The noise presents itself on lateral pitching or driving on very heavily rutted roads with camber changes.
I plan to polly bush the ARB mounts and fit rose jointed drop links to see if this helps.
But before I go ahead has anyone got any other ideas of what this annoying clacking noise could be?
The car has new Gaz Gold Pro dampers and all wishbone bushes replaced.
The noise was there before I changed the dampers and bushes, and it persists after so I may have spent unwisely?
The ARB link plates on the wishbones are not cracked like they can do sometimes.
A number of experienced TVR specialists have looked at it and can find nothing wrong.
The car had a full geo by Wheels in Motion after the Gaz Gold Pros were fitted and drives very well, WIM could also find nothing wrong.
Am I right to focus on the ARB area or does anyone here have any other ideas?.
The noise is quite loud and doesnt sound good at all.
I doubt it, but perhaps all Chims make this noise?
Edited by Chimpaholic on Tuesday 3rd August 19:26
Nice one guys, all interesting ideas.
I need to take a closer look at the ARB.
Quinny, the engine mounts were checked & a loose bolt or two was found.
Unfortunately the noise remained after tightening the mounts up.
However you could be on to something with the rad idea mate.
My car had a new rad just before I bought it & the mounting seems bad/wrong to me.
I assume the rad should me mounted on rubber bobbins or the like?
Has anyone got any pictures of a correctly mounted rad & its fixings?
Thanks again chaps, Dave.
I need to take a closer look at the ARB.
Quinny, the engine mounts were checked & a loose bolt or two was found.
Unfortunately the noise remained after tightening the mounts up.
However you could be on to something with the rad idea mate.
My car had a new rad just before I bought it & the mounting seems bad/wrong to me.
I assume the rad should me mounted on rubber bobbins or the like?
Has anyone got any pictures of a correctly mounted rad & its fixings?
Thanks again chaps, Dave.
Edited by Chimpaholic on Tuesday 3rd August 22:28
Quinny, your rad security ideas make sense to me.
Sherlock points duly awarded .
Metal coolant pipe touching the chassis could easily be the noise I have.
Looks to me like the rad is just sitting there and there is quite a lot of movement from the rad when you get hold of it.
I can see no bobbins on the bottom corners of the rad as I would expect, just the upper mounts.
I really need to see another Chim or a photo to understand how it should be mounted.
Also the off side cooling fan cowl seems to be resting on the bottom rubber rad hose, not good.
If anyone has any rad mounting snaps I would be very grateful.
Thanks again for the help guys.
Sherlock points duly awarded .
Metal coolant pipe touching the chassis could easily be the noise I have.
Looks to me like the rad is just sitting there and there is quite a lot of movement from the rad when you get hold of it.
I can see no bobbins on the bottom corners of the rad as I would expect, just the upper mounts.
I really need to see another Chim or a photo to understand how it should be mounted.
Also the off side cooling fan cowl seems to be resting on the bottom rubber rad hose, not good.
If anyone has any rad mounting snaps I would be very grateful.
Thanks again for the help guys.
Chimpaholic said:
A number of experienced TVR specialists have looked at it and can find nothing wrong.
Means nothing , I had a similar noise , specialist couldnt figure it out , no fault found. Fitted steve heath rose jointed drop links, problem solved. Also a massive improvement in handling.Its so cheap to replace them , just do it. Even if the noise doesnt go the handling improvement is worth having.
bigdods said:
Chimpaholic said:
A number of experienced TVR specialists have looked at it and can find nothing wrong.
Means nothing , I had a similar noise , specialist couldnt figure it out , no fault found. Fitted steve heath rose jointed drop links, problem solved. Also a massive improvement in handling.Its so cheap to replace them , just do it. Even if the noise doesnt go the handling improvement is worth having.
haircutmike said:
bigdods said:
Chimpaholic said:
A number of experienced TVR specialists have looked at it and can find nothing wrong.
Means nothing , I had a similar noise , specialist couldnt figure it out , no fault found. Fitted steve heath rose jointed drop links, problem solved. Also a massive improvement in handling.Its so cheap to replace them , just do it. Even if the noise doesnt go the handling improvement is worth having.
Actually I have been looking at the Leven drop links on the Race Direct site, seem to be a better thought out design than the SH ones but they only do the rear ones.
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...
Are you saying a set of fronts & rears are available direct from Leven?
Chimpaholic said:
haircutmike said:
bigdods said:
Chimpaholic said:
A number of experienced TVR specialists have looked at it and can find nothing wrong.
Means nothing , I had a similar noise , specialist couldnt figure it out , no fault found. Fitted steve heath rose jointed drop links, problem solved. Also a massive improvement in handling.Its so cheap to replace them , just do it. Even if the noise doesnt go the handling improvement is worth having.
Actually I have been looking at the Leven drop links on the Race Direct site, seem to be a better thought out design than the SH ones but they only do the rear ones.
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...
Are you saying a set of fronts & rears are available direct from Leven?
Speak to them direct, fronts are a new product
If it is the rad then the bottom pins should have like a ‘grommet’ (used for holes in panels) slide on to the vertical pins..
The side fixing should fit to a round rubber mount with a M6 thread each end (mini exhaust support) between the rad and the body there should be some foam to blank off the air flow from escaping the rad.
When I fitted my rad I found that some muppet had drilled the bottom fixing holes a different measurement from the front aperture so the rad sat an angle (if you look from the top).
I re-drilled the fixing, brought some foam tubing (used on heating pipes) glued it to the rad (as a picture frame) lowered the rad in to place, pulled it back towards the bobbins hey presto nice seal and a non moving rad.
The side fixing should fit to a round rubber mount with a M6 thread each end (mini exhaust support) between the rad and the body there should be some foam to blank off the air flow from escaping the rad.
When I fitted my rad I found that some muppet had drilled the bottom fixing holes a different measurement from the front aperture so the rad sat an angle (if you look from the top).
I re-drilled the fixing, brought some foam tubing (used on heating pipes) glued it to the rad (as a picture frame) lowered the rad in to place, pulled it back towards the bobbins hey presto nice seal and a non moving rad.
Hi, just take a pic of my Chim off side bobin fixing of Rad, its the nut and thread on the right of the picture, you can see the ruber bobbin between the bracket and the bodywork.
good luck
[/quote]
Thanks myph, my top mounts (the bobbins in your photo) are fine.
The question is whats going on at the bottom.
Pbaker kindly sent me some snaps of the rubber grommet type bottom mounts.
As I understand it there are pins on the bottom of the rad that locate in these grommets?
I will have a good look this weekend, but I bet mine are missing.
Thanks again to everyone that has helped me with my little rattle.
TVR people are the most enthusiastic & supportive bunch ever.
I am 14 months into Chimaera ownership and its been fantastic, long may it continue.
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