epas, electric power steering
Discussion
Nerobo, Thanks for your really good question, I hope the following makes sense.
1. On the Corsa column grind off all the welds on the outer sleeve that hold the concertina section and steering lock in position and at this stage keep the Corsa sleeve as long as possible. The concertina section is now free to move and if you slide it down you will see it covers an additional inner sleeve inside the main sleeve. It's this inner sleeve that allows the unit to collapse.
2. Slide the cleaned off Corsa sleeve inside the TVR outer sleeve all the way until the end of the Corsa sleeve touches the very top of the TVR column where the Aluminium tilt housing bolts on.
3. Shorten the Corsa outer sleeve until the concertina section just touch the TVR outer sleeve.
4. Withdraw the Corsa sleeve and drill two elongated holes, one either side, only through the TVR column near where it bolts onto the Aluminium tilt housing. Do not drill these elongated holes through the Corsa sleeve as well.
5.With the two sleeves push together again tack/surface weld the concertina section to the end of the TVR column and make sure the Corsa sleeve inside is still free.
6. Finally weld the sleeves together through the elongated holes drilled earlier. You can see one of the elongated holes welded up in my second picture.
Once completed if you look down inside the middle of the column from the steering wheel end you can see the Corsa outer main sleeve runs the full length. Further down you can also see the end of the Corsa inner/smaller & shorter sleeve that slides up in an accident, you can see it in this picture.
With regards to the splined collar just keep the inside length as long as possible. I have to admit mine is slightly shorter inside but it's still long enough to allow max collapse which is limited by the concertina sleeve. In addition my bottom column is also collapsible as I've reused the Corsa UJ and collapsible shaft welded to the TVR lower shaft.
Lower shaft before tapping the callopsible sections into position.
Please note, I'm not in the motor trade nor a qualified engineer so the above does not come with a guarantee.
Also please bear in mind I used a welder with over 30 year of experience welding for the MOD and that he welded the shafts while held straight in a lathe.
1. On the Corsa column grind off all the welds on the outer sleeve that hold the concertina section and steering lock in position and at this stage keep the Corsa sleeve as long as possible. The concertina section is now free to move and if you slide it down you will see it covers an additional inner sleeve inside the main sleeve. It's this inner sleeve that allows the unit to collapse.
2. Slide the cleaned off Corsa sleeve inside the TVR outer sleeve all the way until the end of the Corsa sleeve touches the very top of the TVR column where the Aluminium tilt housing bolts on.
3. Shorten the Corsa outer sleeve until the concertina section just touch the TVR outer sleeve.
4. Withdraw the Corsa sleeve and drill two elongated holes, one either side, only through the TVR column near where it bolts onto the Aluminium tilt housing. Do not drill these elongated holes through the Corsa sleeve as well.
5.With the two sleeves push together again tack/surface weld the concertina section to the end of the TVR column and make sure the Corsa sleeve inside is still free.
6. Finally weld the sleeves together through the elongated holes drilled earlier. You can see one of the elongated holes welded up in my second picture.
Once completed if you look down inside the middle of the column from the steering wheel end you can see the Corsa outer main sleeve runs the full length. Further down you can also see the end of the Corsa inner/smaller & shorter sleeve that slides up in an accident, you can see it in this picture.
With regards to the splined collar just keep the inside length as long as possible. I have to admit mine is slightly shorter inside but it's still long enough to allow max collapse which is limited by the concertina sleeve. In addition my bottom column is also collapsible as I've reused the Corsa UJ and collapsible shaft welded to the TVR lower shaft.
Lower shaft before tapping the callopsible sections into position.
Please note, I'm not in the motor trade nor a qualified engineer so the above does not come with a guarantee.
Also please bear in mind I used a welder with over 30 year of experience welding for the MOD and that he welded the shafts while held straight in a lathe.
Thank you Steve for a great explanation.
I have done mine very similar to yours, retaining the Corsa concertina part with the smaller Corsa tube tapped inside of the TVR column so its still collapsible. I found that the TVR lower part fit perfectly over the bottom shaft of the motor so i cut a length out of the middle and shortened it retaining the squared end the the bearing end.
I am undecided yet as how to mount it in the car, I have shortened the outer lower tube and welded this to the lower bracket on the Corsa motor this has made the whole thing one unit.
A friend mentioned about beefing up the lower bearing mount to the peddle box and then just have this and the two top bolts as the mounting but i am unsure weather it will be strong enough.
Did you make your brackets up in the car to get the correct angle or out off the car?
Graeme
I have done mine very similar to yours, retaining the Corsa concertina part with the smaller Corsa tube tapped inside of the TVR column so its still collapsible. I found that the TVR lower part fit perfectly over the bottom shaft of the motor so i cut a length out of the middle and shortened it retaining the squared end the the bearing end.
I am undecided yet as how to mount it in the car, I have shortened the outer lower tube and welded this to the lower bracket on the Corsa motor this has made the whole thing one unit.
A friend mentioned about beefing up the lower bearing mount to the peddle box and then just have this and the two top bolts as the mounting but i am unsure weather it will be strong enough.
Did you make your brackets up in the car to get the correct angle or out off the car?
Graeme
Nerobo, Thanks for letting me know my explanation was ok.
I made up all the brackets on the car with the epas unit held in position with the top bolts and tie wraps. I first made the brackets out of stiff cardboard to prove the theory and give me a really good starting point for the metal brackets. I have to admit I spent loads of evenings upside down in the foot well working out how best to mount the epas unit.
Interestingly my friend SteveGRF also suggested strengthening the bottom bearing as the fibre glass suffers in the wheel arch and then its not water tight. In my case the pedal box is taking all the weight so I used larger washers on the pedal box mount bolts.
Their will be lots of twisting action going on so you could mount it like Black and Green explains in his post dated 5th Feb.
Fingers crossed my pedal box mounts can cope with the weight and twisting action.
Should you have any further questions please don't hesitate to ask.
Best wishes with your epas
Regards
Steve Sprint
I made up all the brackets on the car with the epas unit held in position with the top bolts and tie wraps. I first made the brackets out of stiff cardboard to prove the theory and give me a really good starting point for the metal brackets. I have to admit I spent loads of evenings upside down in the foot well working out how best to mount the epas unit.
Interestingly my friend SteveGRF also suggested strengthening the bottom bearing as the fibre glass suffers in the wheel arch and then its not water tight. In my case the pedal box is taking all the weight so I used larger washers on the pedal box mount bolts.
Their will be lots of twisting action going on so you could mount it like Black and Green explains in his post dated 5th Feb.
Fingers crossed my pedal box mounts can cope with the weight and twisting action.
Should you have any further questions please don't hesitate to ask.
Best wishes with your epas
Regards
Steve Sprint
7 TVR
Your invite is on the Griffith forum at
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Hiltonig
The main difference between the B & C is the physical shape and size of the column. I personally choose the B because it's more compact once chopped down and I wanted to keep the original TVR tilting steering wheel adjustment. I understand the C can be installed complete which is a lot simpler but you loose the TVR tilt and centre horn. They both have the same limited amount of assistance adjustment.
My Corsa B graphed to the TVR tilt mechanism (before completion)
Corsa C in a Chimmy (I hope the owner doesn't mind me posting his tidy work)
Your invite is on the Griffith forum at
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Hiltonig
The main difference between the B & C is the physical shape and size of the column. I personally choose the B because it's more compact once chopped down and I wanted to keep the original TVR tilting steering wheel adjustment. I understand the C can be installed complete which is a lot simpler but you loose the TVR tilt and centre horn. They both have the same limited amount of assistance adjustment.
My Corsa B graphed to the TVR tilt mechanism (before completion)
Corsa C in a Chimmy (I hope the owner doesn't mind me posting his tidy work)
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