Rough Running! CURED!!!

Rough Running! CURED!!!

Author
Discussion

ardvaark

37 posts

272 months

Wednesday 31st March 2004
quotequote all
My 450 chugs when trying to drive at a steady speed at a small throttle opening. I think I'll give this a go. Cheers.

kippax

2,788 posts

249 months

Friday 16th April 2004
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Has anyone taken any pics of where this item is located?? I have bought the sensor (Intermotor part no 55400) but there seems to be an abundance of possible culprits under the bonnet & the bible doesn't have any pics.

If anyone can help i'd appreciate it as you can tell i'm no technical expert!! although just managed to clean stepper motor so feeling pleased with myself.

Thanks
Howard

rat

178 posts

261 months

Friday 16th April 2004
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stand on nearside of car, look at oil filler cap and then refocus your eyes on the aluminium inlet manifold behind that. There are two sensors on top of the manifold pinting directly upwards. One will have no connector on it, leave that. It's the other one, that will have the same type of socket as your new one.

To remove the old one requires either a spanner and patience, or a socket extension and a bit of gentle persuasion of the top hose to move over a bit.

dave_p

235 posts

246 months

Saturday 17th April 2004
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Just changed the ECU coolant temp sensor £19 from Christopher Neils and cleaned the stepper motor in my Chim 500. The car was running ok (so I thought) but after completing these two little jobs the car drives so much smoother can't believe the difference.

If anyone is wondering where the ECU coolant temp sensor is I can send them a pic if required.

Dave

morgala

327 posts

248 months

Saturday 17th April 2004
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Jumping on the SNB802 bandwagon...I've just changed it this afternoon, was bit of a tight squeeze though.

The car is now running smoother in the low gears at low revs.

I used a 20mm deep socket, I found the 19 to be too small.

>> Edited by morgala on Saturday 17th April 18:09

EXUBER-BOB

50 posts

238 months

Tuesday 15th June 2004
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Hi DALEcrx...I am about to do this job...one thought is the Lucas SNB802 sensor actually in the coolant...am I going to get wet when I undo the sensor ? Any advise please...

bullshit

50 posts

246 months

Tuesday 15th June 2004
quotequote all
I did this recently and so long as you keep the cap on the swirl tank (to stop air from being drawn in) you should not see any water leaking out. The sensor is at the top of the engine which must help.

EXUBER-BOB

50 posts

238 months

Tuesday 15th June 2004
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Thanks bs, Just got the sensor from Lucas £11.95 hope to do the k=job tomorrow. Did you notice the difference when you changed yours ?

bullshit

50 posts

246 months

Tuesday 15th June 2004
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To be honest I didn't notice a difference (I thought I had after I fitted it but with these things it easy to imagine a change). I used the Intermotor equivalent part which is all my local motor factor had available but will replace for the Lucas part in due course.

My car is hesitant on acceleration between say 2,000 and 3,000 rpm - I'm booked in on the rolling road next week to sort this out. I hope its something like a sensor though........

EXUBER-BOB

50 posts

238 months

Wednesday 16th June 2004
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Dalecrx, just changed the SNB802, running seems improved......fingers crossed will report back later. Thanks for all inputs .

dalecrx

Original Poster:

67 posts

250 months

Wednesday 16th June 2004
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Hi,

Can you give me the number of where you bought the lucas SNB802 from?? As i want to put the lucas part in as i found that the intermotor part worked for about 3 weeks, then went back to running rough.

Cheers

Dale

Fatboy chim

976 posts

251 months

Wednesday 16th June 2004
quotequote all
kippax said:
Has anyone taken any pics of where this item is located?? I have bought the sensor (Intermotor part no 55400) but there seems to be an abundance of possible culprits under the bonnet & the bible doesn't have any pics.

If anyone can help i'd appreciate it as you can tell i'm no technical expert!! although just managed to clean stepper motor so feeling pleased with myself.

Thanks
Howard



I think page 87 and 89 of the bible has photos

exuber-bob

50 posts

238 months

Thursday 17th June 2004
quotequote all
I got the original lucas part from

Lucas Services, Elliot Road, Poole, Dorset...£12.00..order today deliver tomorrow. Sorry don't have a phone number.

dalecrx

Original Poster:

67 posts

250 months

Thursday 17th June 2004
quotequote all
Hi,

I cant seem to find a number for that address you gave me?

Any ideas what the phone number might be??

Cheers

Dale

s3c chris

288 posts

130 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
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Hello everyonoe!
Apologies for resurrecting this thread... I am a Newbie to Chimaera's and have just bought a 1997 400 after selling my S3c.
There are several things that will need sorting out on the car, one of which was a cool reading temperature gauge. I bought a new TVR sender but found it impossible to get at so after searching this forum I've reverted to the original rover sender with a 170 ohm resistor in series. Seems to work fine, thankyou!
Whilst sorting this out I thought I would change the ECU temperature sender so duly purchased this and after taking the old one out discovered it wouldn't fit! The thread is too large for the hole. Has anyone come across this before? The original part is a Lucas one, no. 73355 which does actually cross reference to the XTT41 number of the part that I bought. I'm happy to get the correct part for my engine which is , I believe, ETC8496 but am curious as to why the other wouldn't fit?
All comments appreciated and this will no doubt be the first of many such queries!
Regards Chris.

portzi

2,296 posts

175 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
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its the black plastic connector in the middle of the picture smile

mark




s3c chris

288 posts

130 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
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Thanks for that.
Yes that looks like the part on mine, it was just that the other pictures on here show it as a brass hexagon which was like the part I bought that had the larger diameter thread. I have now ordered the correct Lucas item, Rover part no. ETC8496. Hopefully that will be ok when it arrives!

PRTVR

7,101 posts

221 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
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Don't know if its any help but a good while ago I posted some pictures of what I did to change mine.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

DanEames

6 posts

116 months

Saturday 9th August 2014
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I found this thread whilst trying to find some ideas about my Chimaera's rough running. I read the Steve Heath book and felt that the temperature sender could be at fault but this thread convinced me. Having tracked down the Intermotor alternative (73355) to the original SNB802, £9.44 from CAF and then a £4.88 socket from HMF I got to work. It's worth pointing out that the Intermotor alternative has a larger (greater height) plastic moulding, so my 19mm socket that removed the original sensor wouldn't reach the brass hex head of the new sensor. Not the end of the world and has luck would have it, lead me to meeting a former owner who couldn't have been more helpful or interesting to chat with.

After all that. My car is like a different car. What a pleasure to drive. Completely different characteristics in all but open throttle driving, which was never an issue anyway. 25mph in 4th gear without suffering a whiplash injury, check. Not getting high on petrol vapour in traffic, check. Not kangarooing around the supermarket car park, check.

Just a note about the Intermotor part too, as I have seen a few comments on that. I checked with a local Land Rover specialist and even they supply the Intermotor part. I trusted them implicitly for spare parts for a Defender I used to own and am quite satisfied that they are with this alternative too.

Thanks to all previous contributors of this thread and Mr Heath for steering me in this general direction.

Dan


EGB

1,774 posts

157 months

Saturday 9th August 2014
quotequote all
portzi said:
its the black plastic connector in the middle of the picture smile

mark



This looks like the one with the plastic 19mm nut. Have read this can break in bits on removal and it then becomes a big big pain. Anybody found a way of removing without breaking the d.....m thing.