"Gentlemen, show your engines!"

[neal1980]

Pupp said:

Not hoes, or even hose, but 15mm stainless pipe simply bent to pick up the relevant hoses at either end - see top of p2 on this thread and look just to the side of the thermostat housing which is where one pipe is picked up (2x 90deg elbows with an ally joiner but a preformed 'u' bend would do just as well. Need decent madrel benders to form the pipe to the right shape but get it right and it can be threaded through the under manifold void without having to disturb anything. Well worth doing just for the better spanner clearance on the drivers side and the ability to pop the rocker cover off with no drama

Good call I did the same looks much neater IMO

[spend]

Still better if you plumb into the water pump rather than running all the way to the swan neck

..and use a preserp inlet manifold

[Simon says]

spend said:

Still better if you plumb into the water pump rather than running all the way to the swan neck

..and use a preserp inlet manifold

Is that all Dave? just the pre-serp inlet that's needed apart from the mods to the pump obviously only I have a spare serp inlet that needs matching & porting but not sure I will waste my time after reading this Dbv8/Derek just thought I would post this up maybe for inspiration as last year I wanted to make sure I had a working ignition before getting to involved and this seemed like a way to do it in 2 half's remember this was my 1st install here's one of those MSD coils although i am not sure they are neccesary as the stock EDIS & coils kit is very good already
and here we are with a stock Lucas hotwire ECU but running totally on EDIS ign but with a fixed advance curve http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzIxQaZee8I did this so I did not chase my own tail with a non runner & incorrect firing order from the coils or faulty components as the EDIS unit and coils were s/hand

Edited by Simon says on Thursday 26th May 22:41

[spend]

You could simply tap into the bottom of the serp manifold I suppose (behind where the serp temp sender is) and screw in a hose tail or threaded pipe just like the pre-serp.

You just need to think what effect flow passing over the temp sensor means and how to keep air away from the tip...

[Chassis 33]

...er, does this one count chaps?


Regards
Iain

[t1blk]

keep trying to upload a pic buggered if I know how to resize it

[Simon says]

spend said:

You could simply tap into the bottom of the serp manifold I suppose (behind where the serp temp sender is) and screw in a hose tail or threaded pipe just like the pre-serp.

You just need to think what effect flow passing over the temp sensor means and how to keep air away from the tip...

nice one,I use the stock LR sensor with a variable resistor(I only want to see running temp on the gauge) so that should not be an issue,certainly seems a possibility best dig out my spare inlet and let you know how I get on

[spend]

Simon says said:

spend said:

You could simply tap into the bottom of the serp manifold I suppose (behind where the serp temp sender is) and screw in a hose tail or threaded pipe just like the pre-serp.

You just need to think what effect flow passing over the temp sensor means and how to keep air away from the tip...

nice one,I use the stock LR sensor with a variable resistor(I only want to see running temp on the gauge) so that should not be an issue,certainly seems a possibility best dig out my spare inlet and let you know how I get on

tip... is 'tip of the iceberg' you have the current hose at high point in the manifold, you now move it to a low point - if you bung the original it will be an air trap.. its about venting IMHO, you just have to come up with your own solutions when tinkering with any of these things.. but since you just want to get air out of the important bits thin pipes to a high 'collector' are fine and give you an excellent bleed point to boot.

[Simon says]

spend said:

Simon says said:

spend said:

You could simply tap into the bottom of the serp manifold I suppose (behind where the serp temp sender is) and screw in a hose tail or threaded pipe just like the pre-serp.

You just need to think what effect flow passing over the temp sensor means and how to keep air away from the tip...

nice one,I use the stock LR sensor with a variable resistor(I only want to see running temp on the gauge) so that should not be an issue,certainly seems a possibility best dig out my spare inlet and let you know how I get on

tip... is 'tip of the iceberg' you have the current hose at high point in the manifold, you now move it to a low point - if you bung the original it will be an air trap.. its about venting IMHO, you just have to come up with your own solutions when tinkering with any of these things.. but since you just want to get air out of the important bits thin pipes to a high 'collector' are fine and give you an excellent bleed point to boot.

Thanks Dave,will have to have a proper look into doing this over the autumn that high point with a bleed screw would be a neat solution though

Edited by Simon says on Saturday 28th May 00:29

[t1blk]

Here's a few pics of mine.

[t1blk]

Don't know how to post multiple pics, sorry

[MPoxon]

Very impressive.

I particularly like the matte black plenum

[Simon says]

Tidy don't take this as a criticism but I would advise something more substantial for the swirl pot to expansion bottle hose than a cable tie the heat from the exhaust will ruin that in short time including your hose,I formed a nicer one from a stainless CV boot clip,different what you have done for the swirl pot & expansion bottle too

[t1blk]

Hi Simon, thanks for that, no I don't mind critisism I encourage it providing it's constructive as it's the only way to make improvements. I'm working on some better ring fixings in Black to replace the plastic tie-wraps.My expantion bottle now has a lovely shiny Leven top on it and it looks the biz.

Simon says said:

Tidy don't take this as a criticism but I would advise something more substantial for the swirl pot to expansion bottle hose than a cable tie the heat from the exhaust will ruin that in short time including your hose,I formed a nicer one from a stainless CV boot clip,different what you have done for the swirl pot & expansion bottle too

[ralphy12345]

t1blk said:

Very nice indeed!!!

R

[MPoxon]

t1blk said:

I was viewing this on my phone before and just loaded on my laptop...... Wow! Looks the nuts!

[macdeb]

Oh, go on then.

This one shows my latest trick tucking all wiring under the inlet manifold out of site, did have to make holes in the manifold for injector wires to pop through. sad maybe, but I like it

Edited by macdeb on Friday 10th June 12:52

Edited by macdeb on Friday 10th June 12:57

[t1blk]

That looks fantastic, love the braiding

[Simon says]

Very nice Macdeb like the engine loom detail

[macdeb]

Cheers dudes, I'll try and get a better pic'.