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Richie Howard
192 posts
37 months
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V8250: How far have you got with this?
I am in an almost identical situation ('77 roadster, confused with the many option available, etc) and would love to get an feedback. I am particularly interested in the rear. My car has new-ish springs, but one of the shocks is leaking and the bushes are cracked and brittle.
My car also rides REALLY high at the back.
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na
6,591 posts
103 months
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Richie, it could be that the rear of your car is too high for various reason but consider if it’s the front that is low or a combination of the two making the back look higher people forget how high all cars sat when they were new in the 60s and 70s especially the rubber bumper cars, plus with the cars sagging with age and the modern idea of filling all the wheel arch with wheel they think a correctly set up ride height is too high because of the visible wheel arch clearance I can assure you from bitter experience you don’t want your car too low- I was misinformed by a ‘specialist expert’ company about how low uprated springs would drop the front of my car so it now catches on the back roads I like to tour on, and this company specialises in Bs too so avoid them when I had a standard set up MX-5 I had a lowered MX-5 up my exhaust pipe because there wasn’t room to pass but I soon lost him when I put my foot down as his car couldn’t cope with the less than smooth road I've got Super-Flex bushes front and rear on my Midget and they are 'softer' feeling than the then 2 year old yellow (fast road) urethane bushes they replaced which I originally fitted tyres are also associated to the suspension, I think the standard size wheels and tyre keep the pleasant feel of the car and its usability, that and keeping the standard steering wheel gives the steering it’s nice feel IMO the extra sidewall of the standard 165/80 I think adds to the feel of the suspension and ride comfort modern tyres I’ve found need an extra couple of psi over the original published figures in the Driver’s Handbook (see my usual advice below) tread depth it’s the only consideration of legacy tyres their age and potential lack of use is important, useful information here – http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.htmltime for – groans all round - my usual advice  workshop manuals for repairs but better to have Driver's Handbook for prevention - (Ref: 0053) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...buy the excellent investment Driver's Handbook thoroughly read it and carry out as much as required of the 36k-mile service asap driver the car regularly to keep it in good condition and you completely aware of its full capabilities loads more help and advice on the MGB forums here (and I'm not on them) - http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgb...have this for good luck http://www.cibolas7.net/resources/cutaway.htm#
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v8250
Original Poster
944 posts
80 months
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Richie Howard said: V8250: How far have you got with this?
I am in an almost identical situation ('77 roadster, confused with the many option available, etc) and would love to get an feedback. I am particularly interested in the rear. My car has new-ish springs, but one of the shocks is leaking and the bushes are cracked and brittle. My car also rides REALLY high at the back. Hi Richie, to be honest I haven't even started as have been busy elsewhere over past few months. However, I am sticking with my previous spec'. As a note, I have spoken with some good people and received some 'proper' advice. Currently, the B's suspension is in top condition allround and she really does ride well with RB's on. My plan is to remove the RB's and add sebring front and rear valences, so the B's weight will be reduced and therefore suspension mods' will be completed only once this is done. I will also be removing the rear anti-roll bar at this stage as this will over-stiffen the back-end. Where abouts are you? If near Oxfordshire, happy to meet up for a beer to discuss or feel free to PM me as have extra info' which may help.
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na
6,591 posts
103 months
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Andrew, sorry only just noticed (my reading skills are only just above my writing skills) from one of your posts above:
I meant the Super Flex bushes had a 'softer' / more pleasant / better (IMO) feel to the ride than yellow (fast road) urethane bushes
and in another of my posts here I put too many less(es):
I meant it’s generally accepted to have the rear suspension ‘softer’ than the front, the car’s were designed for softer suspension than modern sports I totally agree with you that you have to compromise unless the car is only ever going on race tracks or silky smooth roads
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v8250
Original Poster
944 posts
80 months
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thanks na, yes as we all understand back soft/softer and front appropriately firm depending upon application. i'm chosing superflex as the 'shore' rating is slightly more flexible but not necessarily softer. here, i'm assuming we're all aware of shore ratings and the difference between polyurethane and nylatron.
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na
6,591 posts
103 months
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v8250 said: thanks na, yes as we all understand back soft/softer and front appropriately firm depending upon application. sorry, that bit wasn't aim at you, I should have seperated it out v8250 said: i'm chosing superflex as the 'shore' rating is slightly more flexible but not necessarily softer. here, i'm assuming we're all aware of shore ratings and the difference between polyurethane and nylatron. personally it's well beyond me
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v8250
Original Poster
944 posts
80 months
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Richie Howard
192 posts
37 months
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Thanks for the responses. Whether or not he front is too low, I will not be raising it to make the car level! I will measure the ride heights tomorrow. I am trying to look at the front and back together, and would like to get the car to CB height, but don't really know if it is worth going down the new crossmember/steering rack and rear spring hanger route. There are a million different opinions on the lever arm/tele shocks route, not to mention the springs. I will go with the Superflex blue bushes all round. V8250 - I am in SE London, but could possibly take a frosty spin up to Oxfordshire for a beer and a chat. here is a pic: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11052398@N04/44542961...
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Richie Howard
192 posts
37 months
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na
6,591 posts
103 months
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I’ll print that off and the wife can explain it to me http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Matter/Hard...Richie, Yes the back does look high to me, I suppose you’ve driven it and loaded the boot enough to get it to settle – flash or lit photos of under the rear may help Good photos already, particularly the first one Your car looks very nice, I don’t normally like wire wheels particularly on r/b but they look good with the dark green (they’re still a PITA to me though)
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alfa pint
3,856 posts
80 months
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Nice car! Front looks about right. Rear definitely standard rubber bumper height and therefore way too high for 'sporty' cornering. Lowering blocks from the B Hive are the cheapest remedy that still prove effective. Otherwise, you're going down the new springs / IRS conversion route.
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Richie Howard
192 posts
37 months
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Thanks! I am not sure about the wires. I will need to replace the tyres soon, so I am considering switching back to bolt ons. I have all the hubs, etc. I like the LE wheels.
I've just had a look through the files of receipts from the POs restoration and it appears the front springs are the 480lbs uprated jobs from moss (aht21) and the rears are the std (bhh1779). They have about 3000miles on them.
It seems silly to replace new springs, so I think the lowering blocks an new bushes will be the best option.
Now, lever arm or tele?
Arb - uprate front and keep or drop rear?
Thanks again, chaps. It's nice to think about upgrading, after recomissioning a car that did 700 miles in 13 years!(after a pretty thorough resto).
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na
6,591 posts
103 months
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I've just had a look at a few photos in the Original MGB: with MGC and MGB GT book on Google books and I'd say the back is higher than standard r/b but see what you think particularly the photo of the run out BGT at the front of Gaydon Museum http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=h2pqrXtZJZoC&am...
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alfa pint
3,856 posts
80 months
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General guidance is uprated ARB at the front to 3/4", not 7/8". Uprated lever arms at the back if you're using normal springs. I'm not a fan of wires and rubber bumpers, but that's a personal view. I'd have the rubber bumpers off my car right now if I could afford it.
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Richie Howard
192 posts
37 months
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Yep! Page 13. Makes my old tart look like a funny car!
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Richie Howard
192 posts
37 months
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Yeah, I'd like to lose the bumpers too, but the body is in great shape, so that can wait until I get it going/handling/stopping as well as I'd like.
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na
6,591 posts
103 months
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rear springs are notorious for quality, they might be too stiff, not exact size whatever check them before all these 'upgrades' your thinking of
or perhaps they were fitted incorrectly (unlikely I know)
drive the car regularly for 12 months before changing cosmetics or upgrades as you may need that money for more vital things
get the Driver's Handbook, check and do as required a full 36k miles service and drive the car regular to iron out the wrinkles and keep the car supple and for you to learn what the car really is capable of - and then you might decide you like it without some upgrades
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Richie Howard
192 posts
37 months
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I've had the car for couple of years and believe me, I've been over all of the perishables! They don't like string in a garage for a decade, do they?
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na
6,591 posts
103 months
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No neither does the brake and clutch fluids, hydraulic seals, calipers, pads, shoes, tyres, suspension, grease and oils, clutch, coolant, battery - in fact all the stuff you'd check at 36k  you've got sorted already then just keep driving it regularly, the more you do the more it'll improve and you'll get used to it and as I put you might decide some bits are ok as standard a bit of ground clearance is a good thing for spirited driving on some back roads I wish I had more but I believed a lying b*****d marque specialist expert about how low the uprated lower springs would drop the front of my car and now it's far too low so I'll have to change the springs again to save my exhaust mainifold
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custardtart
1,421 posts
122 months
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I'd go Hoyles front and rear but if you decide on panhard rods keep your axle tramp bars in place
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