Just bought an MGC, how do I make it handle?!
Discussion
This is the same engine one with Webers the other with injection, maybe not where you want to drive on the road .
The injection gave 40hp more but moved the bands up by 500rpm.
I may get Pipers to do another cam to move the bands down the rpm a bit , but to be honest its a wonderful engine to rev, provided you get a good damper (ATI) and the internals are balanced. Mine was still going up in hp at 7000.
Every straight six engine I've driven has that 'nice' aura and feel about it. One of the most impressive, and here some may find this hard to believe, was the transverse Six found in the Austin Princess 2200s which appeared in the late 1970s ... I was given one of these as a loan car whilst my company car was being serviced and had work done for a couple of days. A rare engine configuration ... a transversely located front wheel drive straight six cylinder engine. Most impressive by 1970 standards and a car I could easily live with as a daily driver even today.
Well I finally got around to insuring and driving the car today when the sun came out!
... and it's really quite decent for an old car! It's a lazy tourer really, the engine revs up smoothly and quickly but feels a little strangled at higher revs, brakes are good, light steering (apart from parking speeds). The overdrive is a little lazy too, due to lack of use I think, it's only done a 1000 miles in the last 6 years. The front end isn't too sharp, slightly syrupy steering, and a little bit of tramp from the rear axle.
It looks to have been reasonably well looked after though, new front uprights and new looking suspension bushings everywhere. But the shocks look pretty old and I think an uprated anti roll bar and shocks will be on the shopping list pretty soon and should sharpen up the front end a good deal.
3/4 inch or 7/8 .. is there much difference?
... and it's really quite decent for an old car! It's a lazy tourer really, the engine revs up smoothly and quickly but feels a little strangled at higher revs, brakes are good, light steering (apart from parking speeds). The overdrive is a little lazy too, due to lack of use I think, it's only done a 1000 miles in the last 6 years. The front end isn't too sharp, slightly syrupy steering, and a little bit of tramp from the rear axle.
It looks to have been reasonably well looked after though, new front uprights and new looking suspension bushings everywhere. But the shocks look pretty old and I think an uprated anti roll bar and shocks will be on the shopping list pretty soon and should sharpen up the front end a good deal.
3/4 inch or 7/8 .. is there much difference?
The MGC is great car and can be made to handle very well. I'm not an expert, but the owner of the one next our TF in this pic is and I can tell you that his car with triple Webers can make my 1950cc engined MGB look like its stuck in reverse. It also has a deep evil induction chuckle at 3000 rpm which you just have to love.
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae305/S_MG_B/DS...
The owner built it ran it fo 4 years, sold it to make space to rebuild an inherired MGB, then sold the MGB to buy it back which says all you need to know about how addictive these cars are.
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae305/S_MG_B/DS...
The owner built it ran it fo 4 years, sold it to make space to rebuild an inherired MGB, then sold the MGB to buy it back which says all you need to know about how addictive these cars are.
crugbun said:
The overdrive is a little lazy too due to lack of use I think,
yes, a change of gearbox oil and/or cleaning o/d filter might help too preaching mode
crugbun said:
it's only done a 1000 miles in the last 6 years.
that's done the car no favours at all and means it should have received more servicing and attention because of the lack of use and milage rather than less or none at all because it's only done 1,000it also means you'll need to check/change brake fluid, possibly seals, possibly tyres despite tread left, check clutch system, check/change coolant
crugbun said:
new looking suspension bushings everywhere.
but not used and kept movingyes, I'm going to put what I usually put but much shorter (hoorah)
carry out a 36k-miles check up/service changing all fluids with flush where you can, this can be staggered between use if you want - drive the car frequently to iron out the wrinkles and stiffness - don't spend money on cosmetics or upgrade/improvements unless the components need a service replacement as you may need the money spent for other issues and by not doing the improvements/upgrades you may find you get use to the car without them as frequent use of the car will help you get used to it and learn how to drive it to get the best out of it and enjoy it
end of sermon
oh, how on earth did I forget - if you've not already got a copy then buy the reprint of the original Driver's Handbook which would have come with the car when new
it tells you all about the car and the servicing schedule and how to do it
if you read it you'll know a lot about your car
- Ref:0061 - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
it tells you all about the car and the servicing schedule and how to do it
if you read it you'll know a lot about your car
- Ref:0061 - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
There you go, this car is a multiple concours winner, it isnt a garage queen, it's used and quite lively
. It was rebuilt from a very neglected non runner over a 5 year period by it's present owner. These cars are well understood now, but it's not like tweaking an MGB either in cost or parts availabilty. The trade off for all that torque comes at the fuel pumps
I've got an MGC, and the issues with a heavy front end are well known, but in my opinion not as bad as all that. I've got it running on 185 wide tyres, and modern rubber get rid of a lot of the grip issues. I would imagine that stiffer roll bars and torsion would help on the front, but with no roll bar on the rear live axle this is never going to feel like a double-wishbone-all-round-race-car. To address a technical comment I read - torsion bars are simply straight versions of coil springs, there's absolutely no dynamic difference from a coil spring of the same stiffness. They are in this car purely for packaging reasons.
My main problem with the car is the inlet manifold; the original one strangles the outer two cylinders, and I'm pretty sure the low original power was these cylinders being there mostly as passengers. The triple webers setup some use gets around this.
I've modified the engine with six fuel injectors, drilled into the original manifold, and it's running a Megasquirt ECU and Ford EDIS for ignition. Results so far indicate that the stock engine is a lot better than everyone thought.
Oh, and I've put a cut-down BMW M5 thermoclutch fan in place of the original. Although I think the new fueling system will also help keep engine temperature down!
For all new MGB and MGC drivers, don't make a mistake I made. Make sure your sill drain holes are clear at all times, and waxoil regularly. By the time you see the rust it will have gone through your castle rail.
My main problem with the car is the inlet manifold; the original one strangles the outer two cylinders, and I'm pretty sure the low original power was these cylinders being there mostly as passengers. The triple webers setup some use gets around this.
I've modified the engine with six fuel injectors, drilled into the original manifold, and it's running a Megasquirt ECU and Ford EDIS for ignition. Results so far indicate that the stock engine is a lot better than everyone thought.
Oh, and I've put a cut-down BMW M5 thermoclutch fan in place of the original. Although I think the new fueling system will also help keep engine temperature down!
For all new MGB and MGC drivers, don't make a mistake I made. Make sure your sill drain holes are clear at all times, and waxoil regularly. By the time you see the rust it will have gone through your castle rail.
MrNickB said:
I've got an MGC, and the issues with a heavy front end are well known, but in my opinion not as bad as all that. I've got it running on 185 wide tyres, and modern rubber get rid of a lot of the grip issues. I would imagine that stiffer roll bars and torsion would help on the front, but with no roll bar on the rear live axle this is never going to feel like a double-wishbone-all-round-race-car. To address a technical comment I read - torsion bars are simply straight versions of coil springs, there's absolutely no dynamic difference from a coil spring of the same stiffness. They are in this car purely for packaging reasons.
My main problem with the car is the inlet manifold; the original one strangles the outer two cylinders, and I'm pretty sure the low original power was these cylinders being there mostly as passengers. The triple webers setup some use gets around this.
I've modified the engine with six fuel injectors, drilled into the original manifold, and it's running a Megasquirt ECU and Ford EDIS for ignition. Results so far indicate that the stock engine is a lot better than everyone thought.
Oh, and I've put a cut-down BMW M5 thermoclutch fan in place of the original. Although I think the new fueling system will also help keep engine temperature down!
For all new MGB and MGC drivers, don't make a mistake I made. Make sure your sill drain holes are clear at all times, and waxoil regularly. By the time you see the rust it will have gone through your castle rail.
Would like to see pictures of not only the car, but those under the bonnet details you mention too.My main problem with the car is the inlet manifold; the original one strangles the outer two cylinders, and I'm pretty sure the low original power was these cylinders being there mostly as passengers. The triple webers setup some use gets around this.
I've modified the engine with six fuel injectors, drilled into the original manifold, and it's running a Megasquirt ECU and Ford EDIS for ignition. Results so far indicate that the stock engine is a lot better than everyone thought.
Oh, and I've put a cut-down BMW M5 thermoclutch fan in place of the original. Although I think the new fueling system will also help keep engine temperature down!
For all new MGB and MGC drivers, don't make a mistake I made. Make sure your sill drain holes are clear at all times, and waxoil regularly. By the time you see the rust it will have gone through your castle rail.
Me too, I would like to see more detail of your injection system, I use AT power TB and emerald ECU, how did you get trigger wheel on.
I use the Maniflow manifold again a bit different to normal one comes out a bit straighter than usual.
I do have an american inlet manifold ported to take 2" carbs if anyone is interested. worth 18hp I'm told!
I use the Maniflow manifold again a bit different to normal one comes out a bit straighter than usual.
I do have an american inlet manifold ported to take 2" carbs if anyone is interested. worth 18hp I'm told!
Edited by chormy on Monday 28th January 06:51
Me too, I would like to see more detail of your injection system, I use AT power TB and emerald ECU, how did you get trigger wheel on.
I use the Maniflow manifold again a bit different to normal one comes out a bit straighter than usual.
I do have an american inlet manifold ported to take 2" carbs if anyone is interested. worth 18hp I'm told!
I use the Maniflow manifold again a bit different to normal one comes out a bit straighter than usual.
I do have an american inlet manifold ported to take 2" carbs if anyone is interested. worth 18hp I'm told!
Edited by chormy on Monday 28th January 08:05
Hi, thanks for the interest. I've been putting a website together with the build details, when that's mostly working I'll put up a link.
The injector install is pretty Heath-Robinson; holes drilled in the inlet manifold, and BMW/Bosch injectors strapped in. It'll do the job for the time being, my ultimate aim is to manufacture a tuned intake (or even a short intake would do) equal length manifold with a proper fuel rail. If anyone is interested in this kind of project, do let me know. I'll also include pictures of the trigger wheel on the front of the crankshaft. Note that the trigger wheel needs to be mounted to the non-damped part of the damped front pulley.
As I'm using the existing manifold, the engine still has the air inbalance you would expect. However, in my opinion the air is less dense as the fuel is added near to the port, so the inbalance now has less of an effect. It's still not an ideal setup...
The injector install is pretty Heath-Robinson; holes drilled in the inlet manifold, and BMW/Bosch injectors strapped in. It'll do the job for the time being, my ultimate aim is to manufacture a tuned intake (or even a short intake would do) equal length manifold with a proper fuel rail. If anyone is interested in this kind of project, do let me know. I'll also include pictures of the trigger wheel on the front of the crankshaft. Note that the trigger wheel needs to be mounted to the non-damped part of the damped front pulley.
As I'm using the existing manifold, the engine still has the air inbalance you would expect. However, in my opinion the air is less dense as the fuel is added near to the port, so the inbalance now has less of an effect. It's still not an ideal setup...
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