Just bought a BGT...

[na]

Phil you're worse than a teenager, you've already been given the info

na said:

. . . and Paul's excellent B site - http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/hometext.htm

[ATE399J]

na said:

Phil you're worse than a teenager, you've already been given the info

na said:

. . . and Paul's excellent B site - http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/hometext.htm

[na]

ATE399J said:

yes I should think so . . . got that Driver's Handbook yet

you could also try asking questions or researching on the MG BBS

[ATE399J]

Yup, got the Driver's Handbook. Actually I did read the section on clutch bleeding on the link you posted but I have a healthy scepticism of anything posted on websites (no audit processes) so wanted to canvass opinion here to confirm.

[na]

ATE399J said:

Yup, got the Driver's Handbook.

I can give you a few updates that I have for my 1973 Midget Handbook as I'm sure they'd also apply to yours too

ATE399J said:

Actually I did read the section on clutch bleeding on the link you posted but I have a healthy scepticism of anything posted on websites (no audit processes) so wanted to canvass opinion here to confirm.

well you've got me banged to rights there, yes check and cross reference any information from any sources (expecially suppliers catalogues)

which is why I also suggested the MG BBS

thought I put them in before but that must have been the other thread

I think Paul's info is well respected, but like me he'd suggest checking elsewhere, unlike me he knows a lot more and makes less mistakes

a few posters here will also be able to help

as regards seals, quite often I think nowadays it can be easier and cheaper to replace the cylinder rather than just the seals if a car has been neglected

I'm concious you need the replies of others rather than just me so will give them a chance to get in sideways (but it can sometimes be very slow traffic on the PH MG forum)

[v8250]

There can be an issue with MGB clutch bleeding. This can be resolved in a number of ways. I'm not a fan of reverse bleeding as this can/will drag up any crud in the system into the clutch master cylinder[MC]. This is a very effective way to thoroughly bleed:

1. Completely drain all old clutch fluid via slave cylinder[SC] bleed nipple; get every last drop out.
2. Fit new SC and flexible pipe [it's not economic to replace seals only]
3. Wrap a re-usable cable tie around SC piston and body, open bleed nipple 1/4 turn, push in SC piston all the way home and pull up the cable tie to retain the piston. Close bleed nipple.
4. Fill the MC with brake/clutch fluid, fit transparent tube over bleed nipple into a clean jar, then bleed at SC. Leave lid off MC and let gravity do its thing [this ensures a smooth unrushed air purge].
5. Top up MC with fluid and bleed until no air expels from bleed nipple.
6. Top up MC with fluid, then release SC piston from re-usuable cable tie.
7. !! Top up MC with fluid and fit MC lid. !!
8. Re-tighten re-usable cable tie and pull up piston as far as possible. Bleed any additional air left...this normally comes from the SC.
9. Close bleed nipple, top up fluid at MC, release SC piston, top up fluid at MC if necessary, fit reservoir lid, clean up and check for any leaks.
10. Test clutch/gear change with engine off, and then with engine running.
11. You should now have a very clean gearchange. If notchy/spongy give SC a quick bleed...take for test drive.

Job done.