MGB Suspension Mods

[simonriley11]

If I go for all the suspension mods that boy suggests will that make it too stiff and unyielding on the road? I was also planning to fit alloy wheels but I understand that some types make the track too wide for an FIA eligible car, any advice on that? I'm not aware that I need HTP papers for the hillclimb championship, is that something I would need for FIA racing?

[pikeyboy]

simonriley11 said:

If I go for all the suspension mods that boy suggests will that make it too stiff and unyielding on the road? I was also planning to fit alloy wheels but I understand that some types make the track too wide for an FIA eligible car, any advice on that? I'm not aware that I need HTP papers for the hillclimb championship, is that something I would need for FIA racing?

it will make it a lot stiffer and lower at the front but the rear parabolics will give a smoother ride than the standard 6 leaf springs. I guess you need to decide if you want a comfy touring car or a competitive racer, i think the two are mutually exclusive really. I wouldn't want to go too far in a stripped racer with a horn nor race a touring car that handles like a barn door.

yes the wheels will need careful thought in terms of off set to maintain the correct track width or do what everyone else does and order the minilites from mg motorsport to get the correct track for an FIA car.

if you are planning on doing any FIA blue ribbon events you'll need HTP papers. Some series only require the car to be in the spirit of an FIA car and dont actually require HTP papers for entry.


have a look at this car its very nicely turned out and gives you an idea of spec etc....

http://www.britishracecar.com/DavidRussellWilks-MG...

Edited by boy on Friday 28th November 10:56

[simonriley11]

Thanks for the link to the race car, what a beautifully turned out car. Yes I realise that there will be a compromise on suspension specification as I want the car to be useable on the road as well as handy(ish) on the hills. The saving grace is that as the hillclimb championship I'm planning to enter is on handicap then the specification of the car (and the ability of the driver!) is taken into account and handicapped accordingly.

[simonriley11]

I have started to enquire about two pre 1966 cars now and they both have their original 3 bearing engines. Do I really want a 5 bearing engine as in the future I'm likely to want more power or if the right car comes along with a 3 bearing engine would an engine builder do an exchange for an uprated 5 bearing engine?

[v8250]

simonriley11 said:

I have started to enquire about two pre 1966 cars now and they both have their original 3 bearing engines. Do I really want a 5 bearing engine as in the future I'm likely to want more power or if the right car comes along with a 3 bearing engine would an engine builder do an exchange for an uprated 5 bearing engine?

If you buy a pre-66 car with 3-bearing engine you would not exchange it, you'd buy another engine [5-bearing] and get this one carefully rebuilt. If necessary run two engines depending on the series entered. One advantage with this is that you look after the 3-bearing engine and hammer the 5-bearing engine.

I'm now going to throw a spanner in the works. Have you ever driven an FIA car/ a well prep'd MGB flat out? If not, I suggest you do. Whilst they're fun and can be made to 'go' you'll rarely get any more than 140-150bhp [max'] of reliable season in, season out, driving without significant rebuilds to retain full power levels. Also, the little cast iron block always leaves a sense of lacking...simply, you need more grunt. There are a number of folk out there who've found this...and the only answer is a V8 MGB. Even in 3.5ltr capacity running SU's they can be made to 'fly'. Give this some thought, drive a few 1840/1860/1950cc and V8 cars before purchasing...

[simes43]

Nearly anything you do to significantly improve the performance of a B will be to the detriment of its on road behaviour.

A race spec 1840 is horrible below 4k.

A 5 bearing would be the way to go. The base engine cost will be nominal in comparison to all the other costs that are ahead of you.

[simes43]

v8250 said:

simonriley11 said:

I have started to enquire about two pre 1966 cars now and they both have their original 3 bearing engines. Do I really want a 5 bearing engine as in the future I'm likely to want more power or if the right car comes along with a 3 bearing engine would an engine builder do an exchange for an uprated 5 bearing engine?

If you buy a pre-66 car with 3-bearing engine you would not exchange it, you'd buy another engine [5-bearing] and get this one carefully rebuilt. If necessary run two engines depending on the series entered. One advantage with this is that you look after the 3-bearing engine and hammer the 5-bearing engine.

I'm now going to throw a spanner in the works. Have you ever driven an FIA car/ a well prep'd MGB flat out? If not, I suggest you do. Whilst they're fun and can be made to 'go' you'll rarely get any more than 140-150bhp [max'] of reliable season in, season out, driving without significant rebuilds to retain full power levels. Also, the little cast iron block always leaves a sense of lacking...simply, you need more grunt. There are a number of folk out there who've found this...and the only answer is a V8 MGB. Even in 3.5ltr capacity running SU's they can be made to 'fly'. Give this some thought, drive a few 1840/1860/1950cc and V8 cars before purchasing...

You will need 180 bhp plus in an FIA car to even see where the front running cars went!

I would buy a bcv8 car and have some cheaper fun if I was the OP.

[v8250]

simes43 said:

A race spec 1840 is horrible below 4k.

This +1, well done for flagging this up - I'm a little concerned when folk dive into FIA/race prep's engines expecting to be able to comfortably drive on the road at the same time.

OP Simon, I'm sure you're aware that to get the B to shift along with BHP it's at the detriment of torque. You see, due to engine design a B's torque curve is not too great and so they need to be rev'd, high...and that makes for terrible road manners.

There are only a few engines out there that retain good torque and BHP :. compete on/off track drive-ability; a good Buick/Rover V8, Chevrolet V8 and the Jaguar XK/XJ are best examples.

[simonriley11]

Thanks again all and I take on board your comments about using highly tuned engines on the road. The last time I drove an MGB was about 30 years ago and I seem to recall I found the performance spritely but no more. Since then I have been lucky enough to own a wide range of performance cars (I currently run a Porsche 996 Turbo and a BMW M135i) so I'm expecting the MG to feel a lot less spritely now! However I'm going for a B as I want an affordable soft top classic which I can use on the road as well as for a bit of light competition. The search starts now.

[v8250]

simes43 said:

You will need 180 bhp plus in an FIA car to even see where the front running cars went! I would buy a bcv8 car and have some cheaper fun if I was the OP.

180bhp? that's pitlane talk. very few really hit this mark...i know of one that's genuinely got 176bhp week-in, week-out...but the price paid for the engine is crazy. excluding one of rob beere's, i could get a fire breathing xk unit for the same price...

a BV8 is the way to go, easy mechanicals, an under-stressed engine, parts readily available and no pseudo 'FIA mystique' associated. a plethora of series to enter with a brilliant class range +++ far more accepted modifications, will still drive on the road when necessary...and could even enter Bernie's V8's for sheer fun factor; though keeping up with this may prove a challenge...

http://johnwilsonracing.com/media/

http://johnwilsonracing.com/videoclips/

[simes43]

v8250 said:

simes43 said:

You will need 180 bhp plus in an FIA car to even see where the front running cars went! I would buy a bcv8 car and have some cheaper fun if I was the OP.

180bhp? that's pitlane talk. very few really hit this mark...i know of one that's genuinely got 176bhp week-in, week-out...but the price paid for the engine is crazy. excluding one of rob beere's, i could get a fire breathing xk unit for the same price...

a BV8 is the way to go, easy mechanicals, an under-stressed engine, parts readily available and no pseudo 'FIA mystique' associated. a plethora of series to enter with a brilliant class range +++ far more accepted modifications, will still drive on the road when necessary...and could even enter Bernie's V8's for sheer fun factor; though keeping up with this may prove a challenge...

http://johnwilsonracing.com/media/

http://johnwilsonracing.com/videoclips/

My 1840/50/60 reached 179 bhp on the dyno, so more can be found.