MG Insurance for 17 year olds and which car should he buy???
Discussion
Hi, my nephew is looking to buy an MGB GT for his first car. Does anyone have an idea where he can insure the car bearing in mind his age as the 'compare' websites are coming up with a crazy 6k for the year!! Any ideas and advice on which MGB GT to buy, are the final rubber bumper models easier to drive, more reliable etc. etc.??
Gunner44 said:
Hi, my nephew is looking to buy an MGB GT for his first car. Does anyone have an idea where he can insure the car bearing in mind his age as the 'compare' websites are coming up with a crazy 6k for the year!! Any ideas and advice on which MGB GT to buy, are the final rubber bumper models easier to drive, more reliable etc. etc.??
Classic car policies are cheaper but they may not be available to him, depending on age. They tend not to accrue no claims bonus either. Try talking to Hagerty or Mannings.As above, try a classic policy for insurance.
If anything, the rubber bumper cars are harder to drive than the chrome bumper ones due to the enhanced ride height and high degree of body roll. Buy on condition rather than age for a first MG; the rubber bumper ones are cheaper as they're less desirable. No huge difference in reliability - latter cars have HIF4 SU carbs as opposed to HS4s. I reckon the HS4s are easier to tune, but the HIF4s are more efficient. They didn't really make any significant changes to the B series engine from the 50s....post 65 cars have 5 bearings on the crank and better gearboxes, that's really about it. It's an old car and a very old design; it will need maintenance - greasing, points, condenser, fluids, valve clearances but it's easy and fun to do.
None of the Bs have power steering, so he might struggle with that at first. The brakes aren't amazing as standard, but easily improved with better pads. The clutch is hydraulic, which makes no difference to the driving but he really must not keep the left foot down for extended periods at traffic lights. But the visibility will be better than most modern cars and it will still sit happily at motorway speeds.
You want to ensure it's rust free, especially the sills, front part of the rear arches, floor pans, scuttle and inner wheel arches. Electronic ignition is nice but not essential if it's been serviced properly. Fresh tyres make a huge difference if it's not been used for a while. There's a lot of buyers guides out there. General gist is pre 1975 = chrome bumpers and more conventional classic interior (think Smiths instruments) and they virtually all have overdrive (which you need). Wire wheels are a PITA to keep clean, rostyles or minilites are better. 1975-1977 = rubber bumpers but quite often with the older interior but won't have the anti-roll bar fitted to control the wayward handling. Post 77 = rubber bumpers with modernised interior (smaller more modern smiths dials, more plastic, cloth seats as standard)
If anything, the rubber bumper cars are harder to drive than the chrome bumper ones due to the enhanced ride height and high degree of body roll. Buy on condition rather than age for a first MG; the rubber bumper ones are cheaper as they're less desirable. No huge difference in reliability - latter cars have HIF4 SU carbs as opposed to HS4s. I reckon the HS4s are easier to tune, but the HIF4s are more efficient. They didn't really make any significant changes to the B series engine from the 50s....post 65 cars have 5 bearings on the crank and better gearboxes, that's really about it. It's an old car and a very old design; it will need maintenance - greasing, points, condenser, fluids, valve clearances but it's easy and fun to do.
None of the Bs have power steering, so he might struggle with that at first. The brakes aren't amazing as standard, but easily improved with better pads. The clutch is hydraulic, which makes no difference to the driving but he really must not keep the left foot down for extended periods at traffic lights. But the visibility will be better than most modern cars and it will still sit happily at motorway speeds.
You want to ensure it's rust free, especially the sills, front part of the rear arches, floor pans, scuttle and inner wheel arches. Electronic ignition is nice but not essential if it's been serviced properly. Fresh tyres make a huge difference if it's not been used for a while. There's a lot of buyers guides out there. General gist is pre 1975 = chrome bumpers and more conventional classic interior (think Smiths instruments) and they virtually all have overdrive (which you need). Wire wheels are a PITA to keep clean, rostyles or minilites are better. 1975-1977 = rubber bumpers but quite often with the older interior but won't have the anti-roll bar fitted to control the wayward handling. Post 77 = rubber bumpers with modernised interior (smaller more modern smiths dials, more plastic, cloth seats as standard)
This sounds great, but in my experience could be trickier than it may appear.
A while ago I tried to get a classic policy but was refused it if the classic in question was my only car / daily driver.
It may be dependant on the insurance company, I didn't try them all, and I hope you have better luck than me.
A while ago I tried to get a classic policy but was refused it if the classic in question was my only car / daily driver.
It may be dependant on the insurance company, I didn't try them all, and I hope you have better luck than me.
<Tin hat on, and with no knowledge of your personal case>
There's a statistical reason why insurers are asking for lots of cash, it's because many drivers of that age and experience would not cope with an old RWD car and are quite likely to have an accident damaging themselves or others.
My kids are a few years off driving age but for first cars I suspect we will go for small things with ABS, collapsable steering columns, airbags and proper crash structures at least until they've got a few miles under their belts, and then for fun spend some of the money saved on karting, a skid control course or a track day to build up the skill level before taking on something more interesting.
AdrianR
There's a statistical reason why insurers are asking for lots of cash, it's because many drivers of that age and experience would not cope with an old RWD car and are quite likely to have an accident damaging themselves or others.
My kids are a few years off driving age but for first cars I suspect we will go for small things with ABS, collapsable steering columns, airbags and proper crash structures at least until they've got a few miles under their belts, and then for fun spend some of the money saved on karting, a skid control course or a track day to build up the skill level before taking on something more interesting.
AdrianR
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