My project MGB GT.
Discussion
wildoliver said:
The axle case is also narrower don't forget.
I doubt you will have to work too hard to find takers on a swap like that!
Well, if anyone is interested then please feel free to get in touch.I doubt you will have to work too hard to find takers on a swap like that!
Exchange items must be free of extensive wear and in good condition (as are mine with the exception of the splined hubs).
I had an offer through from Moss and decided to place an order and save some money until I noticed that their rear wheel cylinders are £46.95 each!
I had a look at other suppliers and the exact same part with the same part number is only £7.95 - £10 each (slight price variations depending on supplier).
That's a huuuuuuge difference!
I decided to order the parts as and when needed from MGBHive or MGOCS.
I had a look at other suppliers and the exact same part with the same part number is only £7.95 - £10 each (slight price variations depending on supplier).
That's a huuuuuuge difference!
I decided to order the parts as and when needed from MGBHive or MGOCS.
wildoliver said:
Bhive aren't the cheapest (although cheaper than OC) but Nigel and Sandras service is excellent!
I don't always live in France, I am building a home out there but actually spend a lot of time over here (working sadly), I'm found in sunny Yorkshire most days!
I have had to press the MGB into action as my master cylinder expired on my Audi.I don't always live in France, I am building a home out there but actually spend a lot of time over here (working sadly), I'm found in sunny Yorkshire most days!
It has been doing really well, keeping up with modern traffic, starting 1st time each time.
I still have to fit my points less electronic ignition module, a job for the winter but it all works fine for now.
And I noticed i need to fit some better throttle return springs to the twin SU's.
During the week I spoke with a mate of mine who owns a garage (miles away but...) he knows another workshop near him who is an MGB restorer
We are going to look into doing a deal with him to swap axles and hubs and wheels and do the work at my mates workshop
whilst the B is on the ramps it will be a good opportunity to sort out the exhaust clearances as it currently drums on parts of the chassis.
Kentish said:
I had an offer through from Moss and decided to place an order and save some money until I noticed that their rear wheel cylinders are £46.95 each!
I had a look at other suppliers and the exact same part with the same part number is only £7.95 - £10 each (slight price variations depending on supplier).
That's a huuuuuuge difference!
I decided to order the parts as and when needed from MGBHive or MGOCS.
You are wise to ALWAYS shop around. Some years ago, needing a replacement clutch slave cylinder for my Rover 620ti, when I tried a well known national parts supplier, their RRP was £125. Elsewhere £50 appeared much more reasonable but I got one for £32 from my local Rover spares counter... Genuine OE part in original Rover box. Worked a treat. I had a look at other suppliers and the exact same part with the same part number is only £7.95 - £10 each (slight price variations depending on supplier).
That's a huuuuuuge difference!
I decided to order the parts as and when needed from MGBHive or MGOCS.
Looking at the old slave cylinder which was in very good condition, it's little seal had simply become worn as all do eventually depending on use levels. I then found out that a seal kit was available for about £6 and after a few minutes with very fine wet and dry cleaning up the bore and the little piston, slave good as new. Good thing too. Soon after, the slave cylinder 'went' on my son's high mileage identical car and he was soon mobile again ~ and soon after we had another perfectly good refurbished slave cylinder on the garage shelf ready ... just in case.
Moral ALWAYS shop around. There's a huge variation of prices as you and I have discovered.
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I tackled the brakes today.
Stripping off the old calipers and flexi hoses was easy.
I replaced these with new standard lockheed calipers, standard lockheed pads and a set of uprated Goodridge stainless hoses.
I was going to replace the discs with new standard items too but I took the hubs and discs off together, unbolted them but could not get them apart so had to put the same discs back which was not an issue really as they are both in excellent condition and the same thickness as the new ones I wasn't able to fit.
I replaced the brake fluid too whilst bleeding the brakes
I didn't have time to replace the rear shoes and cylinders today but may have time on Sunday if it doesn't rain too much!
On the test drive I noticed that she still pulls left under braking slightly but less so than before so this is likely to be the master cylinder. They are even enough to pass an MOT I should think and the stopping power is much improved but I think I may have to bleed them a little more (was doing them on my own). The pedal is slightly soft but if you release and push the pedal again it is very firm and braking is excellent.
I now get lock up under braking on both front wheels so the braking effort is definitely more even and effective now. The Pirelli P4000 tyres are the main problem, they have about as much grip as a pair of ice skates!
These will be replaced with some decent tyres soon when I replace the worn wire wheels.
Yes, I've decided to stick with wires wheels
All 4 hubs are worn, I've source 2 new rear ones for £70 for the pair which is a good price. I'll be sourcing a pair of front hubs soon too and I can fitt these to the new discs before they go on the car.
I have a few plans in mind for bodywork and upgrades but I'll go into that at a later time.
All I'll say for now is 'works, light weight, race, bumperless, sebring'
Stripping off the old calipers and flexi hoses was easy.
I replaced these with new standard lockheed calipers, standard lockheed pads and a set of uprated Goodridge stainless hoses.
I was going to replace the discs with new standard items too but I took the hubs and discs off together, unbolted them but could not get them apart so had to put the same discs back which was not an issue really as they are both in excellent condition and the same thickness as the new ones I wasn't able to fit.
I replaced the brake fluid too whilst bleeding the brakes
I didn't have time to replace the rear shoes and cylinders today but may have time on Sunday if it doesn't rain too much!
On the test drive I noticed that she still pulls left under braking slightly but less so than before so this is likely to be the master cylinder. They are even enough to pass an MOT I should think and the stopping power is much improved but I think I may have to bleed them a little more (was doing them on my own). The pedal is slightly soft but if you release and push the pedal again it is very firm and braking is excellent.
I now get lock up under braking on both front wheels so the braking effort is definitely more even and effective now. The Pirelli P4000 tyres are the main problem, they have about as much grip as a pair of ice skates!
These will be replaced with some decent tyres soon when I replace the worn wire wheels.
Yes, I've decided to stick with wires wheels
All 4 hubs are worn, I've source 2 new rear ones for £70 for the pair which is a good price. I'll be sourcing a pair of front hubs soon too and I can fitt these to the new discs before they go on the car.
I have a few plans in mind for bodywork and upgrades but I'll go into that at a later time.
All I'll say for now is 'works, light weight, race, bumperless, sebring'
Kentish said:
I had an offer through from Moss and decided to place an order and save some money until I noticed that their rear wheel cylinders are £46.95 each!
I had a look at other suppliers and the exact same part with the same part number is only £7.95 - £10 each (slight price variations depending on supplier).
That's a huuuuuuge difference!
I decided to order the parts as and when needed from MGBHive or MGOCS.
They definitely do sell rear brake cylinders for around a tenner, i think there not listed in the catologue for some reason, possibly not on the website as well. They are the generic copies rather than oem i think, whatever the difference might be after all these years, i think its the oem ones that are getting on for 50pounds.I had a look at other suppliers and the exact same part with the same part number is only £7.95 - £10 each (slight price variations depending on supplier).
That's a huuuuuuge difference!
I decided to order the parts as and when needed from MGBHive or MGOCS.
Magog said:
Kentish said:
I had an offer through from Moss and decided to place an order and save some money until I noticed that their rear wheel cylinders are £46.95 each!
I had a look at other suppliers and the exact same part with the same part number is only £7.95 - £10 each (slight price variations depending on supplier).
That's a huuuuuuge difference!
I decided to order the parts as and when needed from MGBHive or MGOCS.
They definitely do sell rear brake cylinders for around a tenner, i think there not listed in the catologue for some reason, possibly not on the website as well. They are the generic copies rather than oem i think, whatever the difference might be after all these years, i think its the oem ones that are getting on for 50pounds.I had a look at other suppliers and the exact same part with the same part number is only £7.95 - £10 each (slight price variations depending on supplier).
That's a huuuuuuge difference!
I decided to order the parts as and when needed from MGBHive or MGOCS.
I now have a 12% off voucher valid until Christmas so may get my wheels and tyres from them.
A quick update.
It's been so cold and I've been busy on other things and have not touched the rear brakes at all.
I took the B for MOT yesterday and it failed on just one thing ......rear brakes
An advisory on some slight play in the king pin bushes too but that was it.
The MOT tester remarked on how nice the car was and how sound it is underneath and the body in such good condition.
I know it failed but I was actually quite pleased with the comments and the lack of a long list of failures
I returned home and ordered some new rear brake adjusters, adjuster nit and handbrake cables just in case I need them when I fit the new rear shoes and cylinders.
I have also ordered a full set of w/w replacement hubs and am now considering whether I'll fit a new set of wire wheels or knock-on MGC/V8 minilites.
What do you think, knock-on minilites or painted wire wheels?
It's been so cold and I've been busy on other things and have not touched the rear brakes at all.
I took the B for MOT yesterday and it failed on just one thing ......rear brakes
An advisory on some slight play in the king pin bushes too but that was it.
The MOT tester remarked on how nice the car was and how sound it is underneath and the body in such good condition.
I know it failed but I was actually quite pleased with the comments and the lack of a long list of failures
I returned home and ordered some new rear brake adjusters, adjuster nit and handbrake cables just in case I need them when I fit the new rear shoes and cylinders.
I have also ordered a full set of w/w replacement hubs and am now considering whether I'll fit a new set of wire wheels or knock-on MGC/V8 minilites.
What do you think, knock-on minilites or painted wire wheels?
No question ~ Knock on wires ~ different class. Normal Minilites look fine without tack on stuff, but, chrome wires with the big winged nuts look superb. My first MGB had those, complete with their copper mallet in the boot ~ Great days gorn forever....
Keep pictures coming when it gets warmer ~ not ideal 'B' driving weather. Roll on spring. Some news types are saying cold spell could last until March .... hope they're wrong. Still us Brits can cope .... yeah ... right.
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Keep pictures coming when it gets warmer ~ not ideal 'B' driving weather. Roll on spring. Some news types are saying cold spell could last until March .... hope they're wrong. Still us Brits can cope .... yeah ... right.
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Thanks guys for the comments and opinions.
I was thinking wires too but I'm quite keen on the centre lock minilites but i agree they do not look right with the eared spinners - I would opt for the centre hex nut type spinners if I do decided to go for them. They do look good and fill the arches well on the knock on axled cars. The are nice & easy to wash too
If I do go for wires again, I will go for the standard 14" painted ones and respray them with a chrome finish paint since you can get some really durable paints in that finish now and they are less likely to corrode and look rough like some chrome ones can after a couple of years.
I'm still not sure, I had sort of decided on the minilites earlier but now I'm not certain
I was thinking wires too but I'm quite keen on the centre lock minilites but i agree they do not look right with the eared spinners - I would opt for the centre hex nut type spinners if I do decided to go for them. They do look good and fill the arches well on the knock on axled cars. The are nice & easy to wash too
If I do go for wires again, I will go for the standard 14" painted ones and respray them with a chrome finish paint since you can get some really durable paints in that finish now and they are less likely to corrode and look rough like some chrome ones can after a couple of years.
I'm still not sure, I had sort of decided on the minilites earlier but now I'm not certain
Kentish said:
Thanks guys for the comments and opinions.
I was thinking wires too but I'm quite keen on the centre lock minilites but i agree they do not look right with the eared spinners - I would opt for the centre hex nut type spinners if I do decided to go for them. They do look good and fill the arches well on the knock on axled cars. The are nice & easy to wash too
If I do go for wires again, I will go for the standard 14" painted ones and respray them with a chrome finish paint since you can get some really durable paints in that finish now and they are less likely to corrode and look rough like some chrome ones can after a couple of years.
I'm still not sure, I had sort of decided on the minilites earlier but now I'm not certain
Why go for painted ones and then try to spray them chrome instead of buying chrome wire wheels? just wondered.I was thinking wires too but I'm quite keen on the centre lock minilites but i agree they do not look right with the eared spinners - I would opt for the centre hex nut type spinners if I do decided to go for them. They do look good and fill the arches well on the knock on axled cars. The are nice & easy to wash too
If I do go for wires again, I will go for the standard 14" painted ones and respray them with a chrome finish paint since you can get some really durable paints in that finish now and they are less likely to corrode and look rough like some chrome ones can after a couple of years.
I'm still not sure, I had sort of decided on the minilites earlier but now I'm not certain
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