My project MGB GT.
Discussion
Quite agree UBVs are for those that feel they need protection
I never bothered to undertake when in the inside lane with a quater mile to the next vehicle in my lane and other two lane nose-to-tail as I'd only catch the next vehicle in that lane and be stuck behind it plus I liked the extra space between me and the next vehicle makes the drive more relaxing plus having an empty hard shoulder to escape to in an emergency
I never bothered to undertake when in the inside lane with a quater mile to the next vehicle in my lane and other two lane nose-to-tail as I'd only catch the next vehicle in that lane and be stuck behind it plus I liked the extra space between me and the next vehicle makes the drive more relaxing plus having an empty hard shoulder to escape to in an emergency
Kentish said:
Now the brakes have bedded in, I find I don't have to worry about being able to stop and leaving room ahead.
that's probably because by driving the B you've learnt to look far enough ahead Kentish said:
You were quite right Nige,
shhhhh, tell no one, they wouldn't believe it anyway, - even an idiot like me learns after daily driving these old cars for 20 yearsKentish said:
the standard brakes are just fine (even without a servo like mine) if they are all in good working order and not too old.
yes and having the suspension (inc. bushes), wheels and tyres all in good order and fully serviced all help with the brakingI hope you've also got a copy of what every owner and those thinging of buying one should have - the owners Handbook - http://www9.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgo...
How times and attitudes change.
Back in the 1960s when I got my first MGB, a pull handle roadster in tartan red, I thought it was quite a large car. I realise now it was not. Got a picture of it somewhere ... here's the next one I bought :~
The blonde 1960s "Dolly Bird" in the passenger seat and I married some years after that 4 x 3" print was taken. Still together many years and two adult sons later ~ one a keen MG enthusiast with one MG older than he is ..
.. no idea where he got that interest from .... Here's the last MGB I had ... a 1978 MGB GT which I sold in 1984... a little used second car..
The poor quality of these images is due to my using a compact digital to simply copy the small coloured prints ...
By modern car standards these old cars are both small and less refined than most ordinary production cars available today. Know what though, despite those disadvantages, these old cars were and still are nice to drive ... Yes, you have to drive these cars ... and the experience is all the better for it.
Back in the 1960s when I got my first MGB, a pull handle roadster in tartan red, I thought it was quite a large car. I realise now it was not. Got a picture of it somewhere ... here's the next one I bought :~
The blonde 1960s "Dolly Bird" in the passenger seat and I married some years after that 4 x 3" print was taken. Still together many years and two adult sons later ~ one a keen MG enthusiast with one MG older than he is ..
.. no idea where he got that interest from .... Here's the last MGB I had ... a 1978 MGB GT which I sold in 1984... a little used second car..The poor quality of these images is due to my using a compact digital to simply copy the small coloured prints ...
By modern car standards these old cars are both small and less refined than most ordinary production cars available today. Know what though, despite those disadvantages, these old cars were and still are nice to drive ... Yes, you have to drive these cars ... and the experience is all the better for it.
Nice photos there John
An MGB is and should be part of the family - I intend to keep taking photos of mine wherever we go.
I have been using the B daily and no issues to report other than the indicator switch refused to signal left for a while but has since started working again
A self repairing car, I like that
She is quite happy at speeds upto 90, although sounds a bit strained at such speeds, very happy to cruise at 75-80 though.
The brakes are really good now and the overall feel of the car now she has new splined hubs, wheels and tyres is much much better!
I do need to rehang the exhaust, it can drum on lift off at speed and can knock on the chassis at the front on start up.
The gearbox is a little stiff to select gears and at high speed it starts to groan but very quietly and stops if I back off. I have not checked the oil level yet.
Are the gearboxes ususally quite slick?
I hadn't driven a B for about 15 years before buying mine and can't recall how smooth the boxes are (or not).
The overdrive which sometimes didn't kick in is perfect now, works every time so I think that was due to lack of use.
Does the overdrive have it's own oil reservoir or is it fed from the gearbox?
I know the gearbox takes 20/50 the same as the engine, if the overdrive is a separate oil system does it take the same grade as the box and engine?
I also have some EP90 for my rear diff but it is very quiet (for a B)
All advice much appreciated
An MGB is and should be part of the family - I intend to keep taking photos of mine wherever we go.
I have been using the B daily and no issues to report other than the indicator switch refused to signal left for a while but has since started working again
A self repairing car, I like that
She is quite happy at speeds upto 90, although sounds a bit strained at such speeds, very happy to cruise at 75-80 though.
The brakes are really good now and the overall feel of the car now she has new splined hubs, wheels and tyres is much much better!
I do need to rehang the exhaust, it can drum on lift off at speed and can knock on the chassis at the front on start up.
The gearbox is a little stiff to select gears and at high speed it starts to groan but very quietly and stops if I back off. I have not checked the oil level yet.
Are the gearboxes ususally quite slick?
I hadn't driven a B for about 15 years before buying mine and can't recall how smooth the boxes are (or not).
The overdrive which sometimes didn't kick in is perfect now, works every time so I think that was due to lack of use.
Does the overdrive have it's own oil reservoir or is it fed from the gearbox?
I know the gearbox takes 20/50 the same as the engine, if the overdrive is a separate oil system does it take the same grade as the box and engine?
I also have some EP90 for my rear diff but it is very quiet (for a B)
All advice much appreciated
Kentish said:
The gearbox is a little stiff to select gears and at high speed it starts to groan but very quietly and stops if I back off. I have not checked the oil level yet.
Are the gearboxes ususally quite slick?
I hadn't driven a B for about 15 years before buying mine and can't recall how smooth the boxes are (or not).
The overdrive which sometimes didn't kick in is perfect now, works every time so I think that was due to lack of use.
Does the overdrive have it's own oil reservoir or is it fed from the gearbox?
I know the gearbox takes 20/50 the same as the engine, if the overdrive is a separate oil system does it take the same grade as the box and engine?
Get an owners Handbook - http://www9.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgo... and you'd know all this without askingAre the gearboxes ususally quite slick?
I hadn't driven a B for about 15 years before buying mine and can't recall how smooth the boxes are (or not).
The overdrive which sometimes didn't kick in is perfect now, works every time so I think that was due to lack of use.
Does the overdrive have it's own oil reservoir or is it fed from the gearbox?
I know the gearbox takes 20/50 the same as the engine, if the overdrive is a separate oil system does it take the same grade as the box and engine?
do a full and proper 36,000 miles service
Yes the g/boxes are usually quite slick, perhaps you need a new g/box
or, if gears get more difficult to shift when hot it suggests you need to change the oil, yes same oil as engine with or without overdrive (don't add things like SLICK-50/Molyslip to overdrive boxes)
If overdive is not instant then clean the filter plate
and change the rear axle oil whilst you're at it and it might be even quieter (you can add stuff like SLICK-50/Molyslip unless you have a limited slip diff which standard Bs don't)
It may be EP90 for filling but lighter oil for topping up - check your owners Handbook
I think all classic MG owners should have the owners Handbook it's only £8 and covers regular servicing and everything you need to know as the driver, in fact I suggest buying the Handbook before the car so you know what's involved with ownership
Thanks Nigel.
I like Molyslip G - excellent stuff!
I'll probably replace my rear diff sooner or later and will definitely pop some in that as it works so well in my experience.
The box is a bit stiff to engage some gears, more so when hot so I'll get some new oil in there pronto. It does nto feel or sound too worn IMHO so it needs sorting before it is!
Using the car daily is helping me to pressure test it for faults; not too many so far but I may invest in new rear shocks (has some old Spax telescopic rear dampers currently) and springs and some new front suspension - probably keeping the lever arms at the front and new king pins and stub axles as I have slight play in them. I'll probably fit the ARB on the rear to firm up the handling a little and to also dail out a little of the initial understeer.
It's a fun car to drive, like a little go-kart!
Understeers into a tight corner but if you keep your foot in it oversteers
I just missed a pair of leather seats on ebay at the weekend, they looked really nice and had been rebuilt by PJM recently. When the time comes, I'll prob go to B Hive for a rebuilt pair. I don't know the date of my seats as they are later than the car and the drivers seat frame looks a bit wonky, leaning to the left!
I like Molyslip G - excellent stuff!
I'll probably replace my rear diff sooner or later and will definitely pop some in that as it works so well in my experience.
The box is a bit stiff to engage some gears, more so when hot so I'll get some new oil in there pronto. It does nto feel or sound too worn IMHO so it needs sorting before it is!
Using the car daily is helping me to pressure test it for faults; not too many so far but I may invest in new rear shocks (has some old Spax telescopic rear dampers currently) and springs and some new front suspension - probably keeping the lever arms at the front and new king pins and stub axles as I have slight play in them. I'll probably fit the ARB on the rear to firm up the handling a little and to also dail out a little of the initial understeer.
It's a fun car to drive, like a little go-kart!
Understeers into a tight corner but if you keep your foot in it oversteers
I just missed a pair of leather seats on ebay at the weekend, they looked really nice and had been rebuilt by PJM recently. When the time comes, I'll prob go to B Hive for a rebuilt pair. I don't know the date of my seats as they are later than the car and the drivers seat frame looks a bit wonky, leaning to the left!
Kentish said:
Thanks Nigel.
I like Molyslip G - excellent stuff!
I'll probably replace my rear diff sooner or later and will definitely pop some in that as it works so well in my experience.
try changing the oil first as it may well be as old as your g/box oilI like Molyslip G - excellent stuff!
I'll probably replace my rear diff sooner or later and will definitely pop some in that as it works so well in my experience.
I think you'll find most owners have their rear axles rebuilt keeping as much of the original parts as possible as new parts don't seem as good normally
Kentish said:
The box is a bit stiff to engage some gears, more so when hot so I'll get some new oil in there pronto. It does nto feel or sound too worn IMHO so it needs sorting before it is!
I'm sure (but I'm too lazy to check) that I'd have said before about doing a full and proper 36,000 mile servicei.e. also replace;
g/box and back axle oils
brake and clutch fluids
coolant
dissy cap, rotor arm and leads (all to good quality ones)
fan belt
Kentish said:
Using the car daily is helping me to pressure test it for faults; not too many so far but I may invest in new rear shocks (has some old Spax telescopic rear dampers currently) and springs and some new front suspension - probably keeping the lever arms at the front and new king pins and stub axles as I have slight play in them. I'll probably fit the ARB on the rear to firm up the handling a little and to also dail out a little of the initial understeer.
try replacing your suspension bushes (Super-Flex are very good) but not with hard fast road type, before you think about dampers and springs or ARBas for king pins and stub axles are you greasing them regularly - or by the sound of possibly having very old oil in the g/box perhaps the last owner didn't bother as "the car was hardly used"
Kentish said:
I just missed a pair of leather seats on ebay at the weekend, they looked really nice and had been rebuilt by PJM recently. When the time comes, I'll prob go to B Hive for a rebuilt pair. I don't know the date of my seats as they are later than the car and the drivers seat frame looks a bit wonky, leaning to the left!
common fault driver's seat being broken (it gets the most abuse) it'll probably need welding but once welded and repainted the frame will be better than newRegular service and maintainence is very important regardless of mileage
I did everything for the service except the clutch fluid, the rear diff and gearbox oil.
However, I checked the gearbox oil tonight (clever method of checking and filling on the little B isn't it) and found the box is full with nice clean oil.
I did notice that the selector looked dry and had surface rust so I lubed that up and it is easier to get in gear now.
But I think it would benefit from a clutch fluid change as the biting point is near the floor and i can hear the drive take up a little when the pedal is fully depressed, so appears to be not fully disengaging and this of course gives the effect of difficulty in selecting gears. The box is nice and quiet though so i think it is in good condition; it has no leaks and looks quite clean and may even have been replaced a while ago.
As for bushes, yes i plan to polybush everything to tighten it all up.
One thing I have found on the B is that the steering is very sensitive to tyre pressure differences, if they vary on the same axle a little the car can wander on fast roads.
However, I checked the gearbox oil tonight (clever method of checking and filling on the little B isn't it) and found the box is full with nice clean oil.
I did notice that the selector looked dry and had surface rust so I lubed that up and it is easier to get in gear now.
But I think it would benefit from a clutch fluid change as the biting point is near the floor and i can hear the drive take up a little when the pedal is fully depressed, so appears to be not fully disengaging and this of course gives the effect of difficulty in selecting gears. The box is nice and quiet though so i think it is in good condition; it has no leaks and looks quite clean and may even have been replaced a while ago.
As for bushes, yes i plan to polybush everything to tighten it all up.
One thing I have found on the B is that the steering is very sensitive to tyre pressure differences, if they vary on the same axle a little the car can wander on fast roads.
SB - Nigel said:
Yes sorry I should have thought about clutch especially as I’ve just had my changed
Sounds like your car sat around for a while good job you’ve been using it regularly
As for tyre pressures, well ally wheels don’t loose pressure as often as wires
Yes, I'm pretty sure it is a fluid issue so will try that first.Sounds like your car sat around for a while good job you’ve been using it regularly
As for tyre pressures, well ally wheels don’t loose pressure as often as wires
It works fine and the gears do go in but it is just as though the clutch is not fully disengaged so I think that could well be the problem. As said, it's not too bad and no problem driving like it for now.
Yes, it didn't get much use with the last owner in the 6 years he had it. I think he did around 700 miles in all that time.
I've done around 1500 miles now in just over one months worth of use
Tyre pressures with wires does appear to be an issue. I think I'll put some tyre sealant in each as they are tubes after all so it will not ruin the tyres. Not that the stuff does ruin tyres anyway, that's just what tyre fitter like you to believe so they can sell a new tyre instead of repairing it!
Kentish.
Ref those tyres, what size and make are they?
I need to put some new rubber on my wires.
Did you have any problems getting them balanced at all?
Nice car by the way! Got a 72 in green, done all the jobs you've tackled already, just need to sort some minor tinworm out now.
Cheers
Al.
Ref those tyres, what size and make are they?
I need to put some new rubber on my wires.
Did you have any problems getting them balanced at all?
Nice car by the way! Got a 72 in green, done all the jobs you've tackled already, just need to sort some minor tinworm out now.
Cheers
Al.
Kentish said:
I did notice that the selector looked dry and had surface rust so I lubed that up and it is easier to get in gear now.
It's a common problem with both MGA and MGB - the bit that really needs lubricating is where the bottom of the gear lever sits in the ball socket of the selector mechanism - it gets rusty easily, so dissamble, clean out and lubricate it, and renew the nylon cup-shaped bush at the bottom while you're at it - that normally disintegrates which allows the moisture in and rust ot form. Also, whilke you have access to it, spray a load of WD-40 along the selector shaft to provide a bit of lubrication for where the shaft runs through the aluminium remote housing.MG Mark
Kentish said:
Thanks Mark; I'll check that out soon.
No worries - if its the earlier type of gearbox, the mechanism will be a circlip holding a plate and spring down onto the selector lever to keep the lever in place in the housing; if a later gearbox, the circlip was replaced by 3 bolts which held the plate down in position. Either way, remove and relieve the spring pressure with care, so that bits don't go "boing" and fly off into into random places. The nylon bush that the ball of the selector lever sits in, which then mates up to hole in the end of the selector rod is important as, if it is worn/missing/melted, it is what causes a slight "zizzing" noise from the gear lever, particularly in top gear.All the best,
MG Mark
OK, time for a quick update.
The little MGB GT has been no trouble. I have done nothing more to the car for nearly 2 months now but I have been looking for a pair of front seats to match the rear one.
I missed a couple on ebay and they went for silly money too.
I eventually spotted a pair of nice leather looking seats but a bit grubby, I bid for them and got them at an excellent price (over £100 cheaper than the previous sets).
I gave one a good clean and it looks really good. The dirty appearance had clearly put people of bidding.
I also managed to pick up a brand new pair of inertia reel seatbelts for around half the price of all the others on ebay, result!
Next was carpets, I bought a 21 piece set of quality carpets manufactured by Carelli.
I may buy a new rear seat cover to freshen up the look of the rear seat too but that will be the interior done. Mrs K wanted me to buy all new stuff but I was quite keen on buying used but very good stuff (apart from the carpets); I think a 41 year old car looking like a brand new one (or with many parts looking brand new) is not quite right, I want it to look used but loved
Oh the other thing I want to do is see how the headlining cleans up, maybe replace it if need be.
So all the interior will be coming out soon, new front footwells welded in and new castle rails and then epoxy coated inside and out and waxoiled and then primed and sprayed (the floors only).
Then new carpets fitted, seatbelts and seats.
It won't be for a while but I'll take before and after photos as I progress.
I start a one year bodywork restoration course next month so hope to do all of the bodywork myself.
The little MGB GT has been no trouble. I have done nothing more to the car for nearly 2 months now but I have been looking for a pair of front seats to match the rear one.
I missed a couple on ebay and they went for silly money too.
I eventually spotted a pair of nice leather looking seats but a bit grubby, I bid for them and got them at an excellent price (over £100 cheaper than the previous sets).
I gave one a good clean and it looks really good. The dirty appearance had clearly put people of bidding.
I also managed to pick up a brand new pair of inertia reel seatbelts for around half the price of all the others on ebay, result!
Next was carpets, I bought a 21 piece set of quality carpets manufactured by Carelli.
I may buy a new rear seat cover to freshen up the look of the rear seat too but that will be the interior done. Mrs K wanted me to buy all new stuff but I was quite keen on buying used but very good stuff (apart from the carpets); I think a 41 year old car looking like a brand new one (or with many parts looking brand new) is not quite right, I want it to look used but loved
Oh the other thing I want to do is see how the headlining cleans up, maybe replace it if need be.
So all the interior will be coming out soon, new front footwells welded in and new castle rails and then epoxy coated inside and out and waxoiled and then primed and sprayed (the floors only).
Then new carpets fitted, seatbelts and seats.
It won't be for a while but I'll take before and after photos as I progress.
I start a one year bodywork restoration course next month so hope to do all of the bodywork myself.
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