My project MGB GT.

[Kentish]

Hi Nigel;

Thanks, yes I'll wait for a while until I fit the carpets.

I plan to accumulate the parts (carpet set, panel set, seat foams and new covers, centre armrest, dash panel & switches etc) and then work through from the carpets and soundproofing upwards.

I couldn't get your link to work, is it related to the heater pipework and matrix?

I had an split hose in the engine bay for the heater which I replaced as soon as I picked the car up but other than that the heater is terrific and the controls even do what they are supposed to do!

[SB - Nigel]

Kentish said:

I couldn't get your link to work, is it related to the heater pipework and matrix?

no it's item 25 on this page - oh, looks like MGOC Spares locks out

It's the drain pipe off the fresh air/heater body appeture (runs by the side of the gearbox IIRC) can best be seen from under the car

Debris falls down this pipe along with the water it's designed to drain away fom the appeture mentioned above (the air intake for freah air/heater, on the outside of the car, you can see just in front of the windscreen and wipers)

The drain pipe has a bulb at the bottom that has a split opening (hence its name)

The bulb at the bottom holds the water until the volume and weight is sufficient to dump it out with any small derbis collected - but unless they are purged regularly they dont instead the water backs to the centre consol carpet (some try useing a wire from the grille entry but this only works when a small amount of debris has got stuck

Once cleared out get a grille mesh to fit on the grille cover to help prevent it happening again, even if there is already one fitted get under the car and check the drain is empty of debris

[Kentish]

Thanks Nigel, I'll check that out too.

Sounds like I could take the bulb off and just let it drain at will?

I do have a mesh at the intake, so hopefully not too much rubbish has drained through.

With regard to wheels.

Was the wear aspect of splines hubs and wheels why you suggested replacing them with alloys, are the knock on type known to suffer premature spline wear?

If I change from wires to bolt on type I'll need to change hubs, is this easy to do or does it mean a new rear axle?

I'm not sure which mine will have (banjo or tube)?

Your advice is much appreciated!

Edited by Kentish on Friday 24th April 12:28

[ahockley]

It think any kind of splined hub/wheel arangement will suffer wear - the rate of it can be minimised by applying copper grease at each change and ensuring the correct tightness on the spinners apparently. I was told that replacing both hub and wheels at the same time was necessary, as if this is not done one will rapidly wear the other.

I'm not sure about axle types I'm afraid.

[Kentish]

ahockley said:

It think any kind of splined hub/wheel arangement will suffer wear - the rate of it can be minimised by applying copper grease at each change and ensuring the correct tightness on the spinners apparently. I was told that replacing both hub and wheels at the same time was necessary, as if this is not done one will rapidly wear the other.

I'm not sure about axle types I'm afraid.

Thanks Alastair.

I think I'll have to give one or two of the MGB parts specailists a call to see what they suggest for prices for both options.

Minilites are likely to require a fair bit less maintenance than wire wheels over the years but may involve a lot more work to change over to and the wires look great IMHO. Minilites look very nice too though.

[SB - Nigel]

I’m certainly not an expert on MGBs I can only offer what lillte I’ve learnt from my ownership of two Bs and two Spridgets

Kentish said:

Sounds like I could take the bulb off and just let it drain at will?

I do have a mesh at the intake, so hopefully not too much rubbish has drained through.

The bulb is part of the pipe so you would need to cut it off but as it’s in an awkward place and you could pull it off where it’s clipped (in another awkward place) and the bulb may have another function I don’t known about if you’ve got mesh and you clean the bulb out I’d leave it well alone – you’ll find with most things on an old car (classic) if they’re working well leave them alone

Kentish said:

Was the wear aspect of splines hubs and wheels why you suggested replacing them with alloys, are the knock on type known to suffer premature spline wear?

only partly more to do with having to clean them as a daily driver but I was not suggesting changing them for the sake of it, if all’s OK keep with them until something happens to them or you get truly sick of cleaning (or clean them less) – save your money for other things that may crop up

Knocking can come from prop/axle too have everything checked, some knocking can’t be got rid of

Kentish said:

If I change from wires to bolt on type I'll need to change hubs, is this easy to do or does it mean a new rear axle?

I'm not sure which mine will have (banjo or tube)?

you don’t need to replace the axle (as far as I know) but you will need to replace the hubs

Knock-on minilite copies are a lot more expensive than the bolt-on ones if you want/can keep the existing hubs

I’d suggest as well as the Owners Handbook owners also consider getting the (reprinted) original Parts Catalogue which will help with understanding the car and also a copy of the Original MGB for excellent photos and details of the B

Don’t spend your money too much as the car may throw up surprise expenses

I’ve had my Midget 21 months now doing regular full servicing and replacing/upgrading components, some just because I know they may cause me trouble in the future, but still just before and during my first Bears tour of the year and the car starts to fall apart, more unexpected expenses!

Plus I put my new MGOC wheels and tyres package on just before going away to find that the balancing weights were put in a place that caught the trackrod ends!

[craggers]

Not sure if you have already seen this company before.

http://www.mgbhive.co.uk/

Used them lots when I used to own my MGB GT (one day will have it again)

[esselte]

craggers said:

Not sure if you have already seen this company before.

http://www.mgbhive.co.uk/

Used them lots when I used to own my MGB GT (one day will have it again)

If he'd looked on page 1 he would have done....

esselte said:

Kentish said:

SB - Nigel said:

Kentish said:

SB - Nigel said:

. . . my TVR-S days.

another fun car

Yes, that was a lot of fun - not a car I liked to drive every day though, especially in the rain. It was too tail happy and I also needed an umbrella inside the car

Kentish said:

I'll see whether I can get a pair of grooved only. Grooved discs are quite good at cleaning up your pads and giving a fresh even braking surface for a longer period of their lifespan, which is good for cars not in daily use.

SB - Nigel said:

but, but yours is going to be in daily use

To a point; I won't take it out in the winter on salty roads and I'll minimise the amount of times the car sees rain - unless it rains whilst I'm out of course

Kentish said:

I may still buy the kit as it's comprehensive and good value and ebay the discs and fit the alternative ones I source.

SB - Nigel said:

other have used this source http://stores.ebay.co.uk/sportbrakediscs apparently you email for those not listed

Thanks for that, I'll give him a try - see whether he has any grooved only discs for a B.

One thing I'm struggling to find are a complete matching set of black leather seats, I'm after some with red piping if i can find some. I have seen them from different suppliers but none so far offer both front and rear and the different suppliers seats don't match. I'll probably end up rebuilding the ones I have since I've seen the covers and foam kits for both front and rear from the same supplier but they are quite expensive, not much less than exhange reupholstered items!

I don't want to teach you to suck eggs but have you looked at MGBHive? I've no idea of prices however...

[SB - Nigel]

Kentish said:

One thing I'm struggling to find are a complete matching set of black leather seats, I'm after some with red piping if i can find some. I have seen them from different suppliers but none so far offer both front and rear and the different suppliers seats don't match. I'll probably end up rebuilding the ones I have since I've seen the covers and foam kits for both front and rear from the same supplier but they are quite expensive, not much less than exhange reupholstered items!

be carefull where you buy seat covers and carpets from and avoid the cheaper sets offered by any supplier

local car/boat upholsteriers can be very good value offering good quality goods and services at reasonable (not cheap) prices including rebuilding seats from foam up - check your seats don't need any welding or repair particularly the driver's seat

carpets sets particularly tend to be cut just too short and of poor quality finish

[Kentish]

Thanks for all the info guys.

I've decided to source a pair of 1965>1969 front seats to rebuild as I appear to have a later pair of front seats with headrests fitted.

I've seen the MGBHive covers in the flesh and they are very good quality so will probably go for a set of those.

[Kentish]

I've fitted my Mountney steering wheel, a pair of new chrome window winders and a nice new gear ball knob (original type).

I've not done a lot more but will over the summer.

[Kentish]

Job Parts Req'd

Interior Seats (pre-1970)
Interior Seat covers
Interior Seat foam
Interior Seat webbing
Interior Seat belts
Interior Carpet set (Black)
Interior Trim panel set (Black)
Interior Radio console to match centre armrest console
Interior Dash capping
Interior Dash wood trim kit (Burr Walnut)
Interior Overdrive switch
Interior Headlining

Exterior Respray
Exterior Chrome bumper (Front)
Exterior Chrome bumper (Rear)
Exterior Early Chrome Grill
Exterior Headlights
Exterior Headlight chrome trim
Exterior Front side & indicators
Exterior Rear light clusters
Exterior Reverse lights
Exterior Number plate lights
Exterior Number plates (Black/Silver, front & rear)

Engine & Mechanics Brake discs & pads (Front)
Engine & Mechanics Brake drums & shoes (Rear)
Engine & Mechanics Rear wheel cylinders
Engine & Mechanics Rear differential
Engine & Mechanics Hubs (all 4)
Engine & Mechanics Wire wheels
Engine & Mechanics Tyres
Engine & Mechanics Electronic ignition/distributor
Engine & Mechanics K&N airfliters

[esselte]

Kentish said:

Job Parts Req'd

Interior Seats (pre-1970)
Interior Seat covers
Interior Seat foam
Interior Seat webbing
Interior Seat belts
Interior Carpet set (Black)
Interior Trim panel set (Black)
Interior Radio console to match centre armrest console
Interior Dash capping
Interior Dash wood trim kit (Burr Walnut)
Interior Overdrive switch
Interior Headlining

Exterior Respray
Exterior Chrome bumper (Front)
Exterior Chrome bumper (Rear)
Exterior Early Chrome Grill
Exterior Headlights
Exterior Headlight chrome trim
Exterior Front side & indicators
Exterior Rear light clusters
Exterior Reverse lights
Exterior Number plate lights
Exterior Number plates (Black/Silver, front & rear)

Engine & Mechanics Brake discs & pads (Front)
Engine & Mechanics Brake drums & shoes (Rear)
Engine & Mechanics Rear wheel cylinders
Engine & Mechanics Rear differential
Engine & Mechanics Hubs (all 4)
Engine & Mechanics Wire wheels
Engine & Mechanics Tyres
Engine & Mechanics Electronic ignition/distributor
Engine & Mechanics K&N airfliters

[Kentish]

A lot of it can be done over time but I reckon I'm going to spend around £5-6k!

A lot of the parts are insignificant in value so I'm going to try and buy parts each month and then do a few jobs, save more, buy a few parts, do some more jobs and so on until all the mechanical bits are sorted and then I'll start accumulating new trim each month and also save for new paintwork and then fit the trim after the B comes back with fresh paint.

I need to time things appropriately though, so that the glass comes out for painting and after the paint a new headlining is fitted.

Can you buy headlining kits?
I've not seen any, so may be a job for an upholsterer.

[Kentish]

SB - Nigel said:

Kentish you must talk to more people who actually use their classic MGs and less to those fair weather users and show queens

Spend more of your money now, on petrol - drive your car, save a bit of money for FULL regular servicing (and repairs) and replace and "improve" later next year

A BGT - you should be driving it from now until, well, you sell the car

I have been using the B

Unfortunately, I ended up stranded 3 times because it keeps cutting out.

I have a new fuel pump (electronic type) on it's way from MGOC spares (plus a few more bits)

I'm going to sort that first then see if the starting is improved, I'm pretty sure the starting prob is down to the pump losing its prime and the cutting out is consistent with it failing too.

I'm going to hold off doing the electronic ignition for a while; as you say, it's best to not spend too much and use it. To that end. I'll be fitting cheap and cheerful points, condensor and new plugs and giving the B a good service.

Brakes will be the next thing to sort as they are quite poor and I'm locking up on the passenger side front and all the braking is at the front and none at the rear. So, I'm only going to replace the discs, pads, shoes and cylinders as cheaply as poss using the standard parts and not uprate them. I'll replace the brake fluid too and see if braking is improved, if not a new master cylinder may be necessary.

There's also a rather horrible clunking when braking and lifting off either the brake pedal or the accelerator and a further clunk when taking up drive again, I think some of the noise is the diff (which I'm told is common to most MGB's & nothing to worry about) but as it is quite bad I suspect that i have the problem that Alistair mentioned (worn wires and hubs) and indeed, I have checked the rears for wear and they do have about 1cm of freeplay with the handbrake on!

These are all safety things that I need to address before driving around in the car too much but rest assured the B will be in regular use once she starts and stops properly and the nasty noises have been resolved.

I'm aiming to do everything properly and not rush at it and also spend as little as possible by not going mad on replacing things for the sake of it but i will spend good money on the bodywork & paint in about 18 months time if I can.

I'm also enjoying the weather with the hood down in the Roadster at the moment

[SB - Nigel]

Kentish said:

To that end. I'll be fitting cheap and cheerful points, condensor and new plugs and giving the B a good service.

check the books I've mentioned as to what constitutes a good service please and do yourself a favour and also replace the dissy cap, rotor arm and ignition leads none are expensive and will complete the ignition service

Kentish said:

Brakes will be the next thing to sort

no sorry they should be the first thing - if the car wont start your still relatively safe - if it wont stop no one's safe!

Don't forget to check the rear brakes and handbrake cable and handbrake componets too

Kentish said:

. . .These are all safety things that I need to address before driving around in the car. . .

at all !

Kentish said:

I'm aiming to do everything properly and not rush at it and also spend as little as possible by not going mad on replacing things for the sake of it

Kentish said:

but i will spend good money on the bodywork & paint in about 18 months time if I can.

yes but get the car right first

Keep us informed as others may well be able to advise as you go along and help you use your money wisely on your project

A lot of problems arise from the car not being driven regular enough but certainly not all that you've mention and you should, when safe to do so, drive the car as much as possible to iron out present problems and identify and reduce further problems

Good luck

[Kentish]

Thanks Nigel;

Yes, I agree with all that.

I'm planning on doing the leads, cap and prob a coil in addition to the points, condensor & plugs - as you say they are quite cheap parts and can resolve a lot of issues.
I can also get a good discount at Lucas

The handbrake is working fine - that is how I discovered that the rear brakes aren't doing anything
I think a good lube up of the handbrake parts will be fine and then concentrate on the hydraulics, new rear shoes and a pair of rear cylinders and new stainless hoses all round, perhaps replace the rather old drums too, definitely replace the front discs and pads. But I'll use all standard parts as they are cheaper and should improve things.

I think I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a set of new hubs and some new wires before too long

[SB - Nigel]

Kentish said:

. . .and prob a coil

my advice - by a sports coil if you're renewing the rest, they're only a few pounds more, and open up the plugs slighty a thou or two (and always clean and regap plugs after 6 months or 6,000 mile which ever comes up sooner)

try this guy for the better quality spark plugs at good prices thorenebt - I've bought 20 from this guy direct and 4 from him via eBay, all very good - (just noticed) if you can't get the solid top plugs from Lucas that is

As you know I totally agree with replacing necessary brake componets but I've just had a friend who knows what he's doing sort out my car and he's had me replace stuff I was told was alright and put right stuff I thought I needed to replace - another knowledgable pair of eyes could save you time and money

Kentish said:

I think I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a set of new hubs and some new wires before too long

now you know I'm bias but a friend completed a restoration on the car below ready to sell and put on knock-on minilite copies and I think they suit the car (my favourites wheels are steel with chrome hub cap but it depends on the year of the car)

[ahockley]

Kevin,

I share your pain - I've just spent another 350 getting my brakes redone, sad thing is they're a fairly easy job but I'm 3,000 miles away from the car which makes any work a little tricky!

Thankfully back for a week soon, so get to drive the bloody thing again!

[Kentish]

Hi Guys;

I do agree with you Nigel, the minilites do look great on the B, I am also quite a fan (like yourself) of the steelies with the hub caps. I would have to change my rear axle and half shafts though if I went for those as they are bolt on only IIRC. I'm probably going to go for a new set of painted wires and a new set of hubs - I do like the wire wheels and central spinners

Alastair, I know what you mean about having to pay someone else to do what you can do yourself, if you only had the time. Getting someone else to do it is so expensive!

My box of bits arrived yesterday from MGOC

A new fuel pump is going on this weekend and all the new ignition parts.