My project MGB GT.

[SB - Nigel]

Kentish said:

I now need two new heater control switch knobs as I could not get the little bleeders off without the aide of my dremel

you did see the hole in the switch to press the sprung shaft locator thingy in (?)

Kentish said:

I could only do up the replacement hand tight but it seems fine and doesn't leak.

you should only ever do it up hand tight running a little oil round the filter seal before fitting - check filter for tightness now you given the car a run

Good idea to replace the sump plug washer each time too, many don't bother then complain of oil leaks

Kentish said:

I've also discovered that I have a later engine in my car

different engines are common and they're not always MG engines as the B series engine went into a lot of cars over a long period of time

I hope you've bought the Owners Handbook and are following the servicing route as changing the oil and filter is a good idea but it's not a service - you may (I say may) be making the classic mistake of dealing with cosmetics and fasionable bits instead of essentials and boring bits like full servicing (check Owners Handbook 36,000 mile service for full servicing)

Have fun using the car (get that bump stop replaced tho'

[Kentish]

I did see the hole in the heater control knobs and used the exploded diagram in all 3 of my workshop manuals to see how they fit but I could not budge the pins enough to pull the knobs off.

Oil filter appears all OK with no leaks, although I did dribble a fair bit of old oil down the side of the engine when removing it most of which I have cleaned off but I'm going to use some jizer and clean it all up.

I wouldn't be surprised if my engine was replaced mid 90's when the car had a bit of an overhaul. The engine seems strong with good oil pressure (50+psi at idle) but the valve clearances need adjustment as it's a little tappety (job for next weekend, maybe).

I know what you mean regarding servicing, I've already done the coolant and I'll be changing the brake fluid when I do the brakes; the gearbox oil will be drained and replaced too. The rear diff is going, I'm buying a whole recon axle as they are inexpensive from the Hive. Suspension will also be greased and a new bump stop mounting peg needs to be welded on and a bump stop fitted but that's not too essential for use on good roads so can wait a while.

I'm not too worried about cosmetic stuff yet
I want to get the car nice and relaible which it appears to be now but I do want to get those brakes and hubs sorted and if I do the hubs I can't put the old wheels with worn splines back on as they will wear the new hubs and the tyres are also old. I know wheel choice is a bit of a cosmetic one but I'd hate to wear the new hubs prematurely. I've priced up all the brakes parts including new calipers, discs, pads, shoes, cylinders, hoses, copper lines, master cylinder, recon back axle, hubs, wheels and tyres and spinners at £1300 and can probably haggle a discount if I'm pushy

I want to get to the stage of a mechanically very sorted car. Then do a few bits of tidying up on the body and underneath and POR15 the underside and then underbody seal and take the car in for some paintwork. Then over a year or two, replace carpets, refurb my seats, fit new inertia reel belts and clean up the otherwise pefect headlining.

Sounds a fair bit of work but I'm starting with a sound car so not really as bad as all that and I've rebuilt classic Alfas and re-built a couple of kit cars in the past. I'll probably get the garage to do the rear axle and I may get them to do the brake lines after I've fitted the rest of the brake parts as that job is much easier on a ramp and worth checking on a brake tester after

What is really nice is that I have spent a small amount of time on giving the car a quick polish and wax and it looks superb, the dash was quite a cheap easy fix as I hated staring at the hammerite
Carpets are a bit DIY and worn but OK for a while.

The huge improvement is how the car starts and runs and how smooth it is since doing some servicing and replacing a few parts. There is still work to do, some hose clips to add and replace to stop any possible air leaks etc. But on the whole I'm exceptionally pleased with how it is improving week by week.

[Kentish]

Caliper Recon. exch. x2 £72.00
Brake Disc x2 £21.90
Lockheed Brake Pads, Pins and Clips £9.50
GT Rear Wheel Cylinder x2 £19.90
Copper Brake Pipe Set £37.95
Brake Master Cylinder (up to '78) £47.50
Aeroquip Brake Hose Set £32.50
Front Wire Wheel Splined Hub x2 £125.00
New diff & Recon. back axle £165.00
Rear Wire wheel splined hub x2 £110.00
Wire Wheel Chrome S.S. Spoke 14" x4 £519.80
Wire Wheel Spinner with MG x4 £66.00
Copper Hide Hammer £13.95
165 x 14 Uniroyals x4 £130.00






£1,371.00

[SB - Nigel]

Kentish said:

I did see the hole in the heater control knobs and used the exploded diagram in all 3 of my workshop manuals to see how they fit but I could not budge the pins enough to pull the knobs off.

next time spray with a good quality penetrating fuild (e.g. Ripideze) and leave it 5 mins, if that doesn work apply again and leave until next day - I've never known Rapideze and patience to fail

Kentish said:

. . . (50+psi at idle)

guage could be faulty, no, no I'm only joking

Kentish said:

I'm not too worried about cosmetic stuff yet

wooden dash

Kentish said:

. . .easier on a ramp

oh, sigh, wistfill look - a ramp

Kentish said:

But on the whole I'm exceptionally pleased with how it is improving week by week.

and the more you drive it the better it'll get

[Kentish]

I've decided on what I want to do with hubs, wheels etc.

I'm going to replace the entire rear axle with a recon one as it's quite worn and then I do not need to worry about whether I already have the correct length of half shaft for the wheels I'm going to fit.

Wheels, I've decided to go for bolt on hubs instead of splined and fit 15"x5.5" minilites.

They look great and the cost saving for them is around £500.

Wire wheels are nice but perhaps the MGB was a bit modern for them and they were a bit out of date even in the 60's, more suited to an MGA I think.

Minilites are a classic wheel and the works racing cars had them fitted so they are in keeping with the B.

The B's I was looking at on Sunday at a car show all looked great with the minilites fitted.

[SB - Nigel]

Kentish said:

. . . 15"x5.5" minilites.

SB - Nigel said:

. . . Tyres for a B are not expensive you don't need (or want) low profile and you don't need bigger wheels as you're keeping the brakes standard

you want 5.5 X 14" wheels (IMO) - larger wheels and bigger (wider) tyres will mean you'll lose some of the feel to the steering - I'm sure I put a post about this recently and was also the other week talking to someone complaining that the new front suspenion had taken away the steering feel when in fact on his car he had oversized wheels and tyres and a much smaller steering wheel

Kentish the original steering wheels where 16" and as is common fitting much smaller sizes makes the steering feel heavier (especially with oversized wheels and tyres)

Plus (and this could be the bit that gets you) bigger wheels and tyres weight more than standard size thus increasing your unspung weight and one reason to fit alloy wheels is to reduce the weight

you've most likely been looking at and going to buy Minilite copies (as mine are)

[Kentish]

Moss recommend 15" for road use - I'm not sure the minilites look right in 14" either.

I have 14" x 5.5 currently and I feel the extra inch will make no noticable adverse difference to handling, if anything braking grip and traction should be better. That's why you shouldn't have 30psi in your tyres

I may in the fullness of time fit some larger wilwood calipers and the smaller wheels won't offer enough clearance (I'm also thinking ahead to things I may do in the future).

Granted, the steering may feel slightly heavier but I don't find it overly heavy anyway and could suffer it being slightly heavier, if it is. I also have a mountney fitted (not a tiny one though)

My original bakelite triple 3 spoked steering wheel was cracked (common prob) and unsafe to use so I fitted the mountney that came in a box of parts with my car

[Kentish]

Forgot to say; my daily driver has 270bhp so the B always feels somewhat slower and I like to plod along in the B so carrying a bit extra weight is not too much of an issue for me.

[SB - Nigel]

Kentish said:

. . . I like to plod along in the B so carrying a bit extra weight is not too much of an issue for me.

so you'll not need bigger brakes and wheels then, and I meant unsprung weight - I'm repeating myself so I'll stop now

Good luck and keep checking the essentials, like tyres pressures, on every car you drive

[Kentish]

Well, on reflection the 15" wheels don't look right as the holes are too large so I'll be going for 14" minilites as they look much more "proper"

I'm a bit unclear whether you need a hub with bolt on wheels or whether they go straight onto the drive flange?? It'll reduce my unsprung weight even more if they do

I've a feeling that there is also a hub for the bolt on wheels that is in turn bolted to the drive flange.

Incidentally, a rear axle originally intended to have bolt on wheels is 48" wide from back plate to back plate and a rear axle with original wire wheels is 46.5" wide. That is how you can tell whether you have a conversion kit fitted.

My wife is trying to talk me into doing all the brakes first and then the axle, wheels and hubs a bit later in a couple of months time but I don't see the point in that as you then have to remove some of what you have recently fitted and then refit it again. I'll make a mechanic out of her yet

[Kentish]

Nothing to report this weekend as I didn't do any work on the B; I just drove it a lot

The brakes do continue to scare the crap out of me but other than that and the clonking the B is great to drive

Has anyone else noticed how many youngsters look at your MGB; I guess it's becasue they don't remember seeing them around as we used to.

[Kentish]

A bit late but last weekend I replaced my 2 dash heater controls and the indicator relay and fitted my centre console and armrest, new gaitor and round gear knob.

Still saving up for back axle, front & rear hubs, half shafts, rear shoes and drums, front discs and pads, solid brake lines, stainless hoses, wheels & tyres.

[Kentish]

An update on the brakes, not much to say other than I appear to have one left front brake working and that's all!

As you can imagine, the braking is quite hair raising so I have a pair of exchange calipers on order. I did consider a kit to rebuild them but at £34 each for an entire caliper there did nopt seem much point

New cylinders (£19) are going on the rear along with new lines and hoses.

All standard parts, no upgrading other than good pads!

[Kentish]

I've not done a huge amount to the MGB as I'm saving for the big ticket items but I have tidied up the rather messy hand painted dash with a walnut veneer kit from fleabay (£43) - it's not perfect but it looks much better than the horrible hammerite!

I fitted a decent console to replace the bodged one covered with carpet and I made a new fascia to go in the console to house the gauges and switches. Also fitted the arm rest for a little extra storage and a new gaitor, chrome ring and gear knob to replace tired looking originals.

Here's a few pics.






Oh, and the MGB now has undercover parking when not in the garage

Edited by Kentish on Saturday 29th August 10:41

[barefoot]

Kentish

I have been following your build as I just finished mine but have now sold the car. I like your interior I spent a small fortune on mine but have to say for what you will have spent on yours it looks great, well done and keep posting.

[Kentish]

Hi Barefoot;

That interior of yours is beautiful!

The dash is a lot better than my thin stick on veneeer but for £40 it was a good quick and cheap cheat to improve it for a while

I am quite happy with how the console turned out, my upholstery skills aren't too bad!

[Kentish]

Just a quick update.

I have been using the MGB a bit but she is now laid up awaiting replacement rear wheel cylinders due to one leaking.

I noticed that the one brake with the greater efficiency is the front passenger side and it's because the caliper has previously been replaced in the recent past. I'm going to replace the other side and fit a new pair of discs and pads when I do the rear cylinders and the rear shoes.

Another thing I have noticed is that the exhaust does not clear the chassis and that is a cause of clonking too, on closer inspection the down pipes look like they are at the wrong angle or are too short so I may need to adjust or replace those (possibly extend them) and then realign the exhaust system.

I think I have come to a decision on the wheels and will replace the worn splined hubs with bolt ons and the shorter half shafts and fit some minilite reps. I think I'll have a measure up first to see whether I can get the wheels to fit using the old half shafts - they will sit further out but as long as they clear the arches it should be fine.

[wildoliver]

Am I reading correctly that your considering building a hybrid axle to fit bolt on wheels?

If so I would heartily suggest not doing so and buying a bolt on axle instead.

A) Your axle is worth more than a bolt on axle so don't mess it up.

B) It will never be right if you mix and match components.

There are plenty of people me included who would do you a straight swap of bolt on parts for knock on parts.

[Kentish]

Hubs are interchangeable but the half shafts are longer if you have splined hubs so they usually require replacing with those intended for use with bolt on hubs.

I asked MGB Hive about prices and they said they would do me some secoinhand half shalfts and bolt on hubs at a discounted price.

Very generous of them to offer but as you say, the splined hub set up is quite sought after and demands a higher price

I'd rather do a swap with someone looking for a splined hub complete axle and also swap over the front hubs too. My wheels & tyres could be included as they are fine, just the hubs are worn.

[wildoliver]

The axle case is also narrower don't forget.

I doubt you will have to work too hard to find takers on a swap like that!