Powertec Hayabusa Engines Complete.

Powertec Hayabusa Engines Complete.

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ETBInstruments

Original Poster:

10 posts

222 months

Thursday 5th January 2006
quotequote all
Just thought I would let you know I have two complete and refreshed Powertec engines.

Spec on Each Engine:
PowerTec 1300 Hayabusa, rebuilt, 0hr running. (dyno running only)
Radical Dry Sump System.
Flat Slide Carbs.
Complete DTA ignition system with Coil packs and ECU (fixed timing)
Radical Ram Air box
Complete Exhaust System 4-2-1
Drive Sprocket

Given each has over a £1000 of refresh work for the 2006 season I need £6k for each engine or do a deal on both.

One of the above can be switched to Radical Wet sump and baffle system if required.

If anyone is going to the Autosport show feel free to drop in for a chat and a coffee on the ETB stand.

Cheers,
Alistair.

gridgway

1,001 posts

246 months

Thursday 5th January 2006
quotequote all
would one go in a clubsport?
Graham

ETBInstruments

Original Poster:

10 posts

222 months

Friday 6th January 2006
quotequote all
Sure, essentially the engine bay is the same. You would need to fabricate engine mounts or buy from Radical. Actually Radicals fabricated stuff is pretty good value. It's the fibreglass and carbon fibre parts that seem to attract the higher prices.

However, both motors have provisonally gone to new homes.

Interestingly, Stuart Taylor Motorsport are doing ZX10 conversions for the club and prosport. He makes up all the mounts etc. No business connection he is a friend though and keen to remove as many ZZR's as possible!

Cheers,
Alistair.

slogan

63 posts

279 months

Saturday 7th January 2006
quotequote all
I have a 1300 Hyabusa engine available (just swapped in a 1500 to the SR3). Would take around the 2,500 mark as is. Email me if you want any details. Also chap doing the engine work for me has done a conversion on a clubsport before I believe. Happy to check if you're interested.

Scott.

gridgway

1,001 posts

246 months

Sunday 8th January 2006
quotequote all
yep, that would be great if you could check.
Thanks
Graham

slogan

63 posts

279 months

Thursday 12th January 2006
quotequote all
Richard is at Autosport so I haven't been able to get him on the phone. Going there on Sunday, so should be able to get details off of him then.

Feel free to email me separately if you want more details on the engine.

Cheers,
Scott.

>> Edited by slogan on Thursday 12th January 19:00

M Blur

59 posts

233 months

Sunday 15th January 2006
quotequote all

Is swapping in a an uprated Motor easy enough on a 2004 1100 Clubsport..? once I get used to 180 or so ponies - what would be the next step - or am I better to have the existing lump fettled? Will everythign else be okay - tranny etc.

Also - how easy to upgrade the aero parts to bring the car mor ein lien with the SR4 Clubsport?

PhilboSE

4,373 posts

227 months

Tuesday 17th January 2006
quotequote all
M Blur said:

Is swapping in a an uprated Motor easy enough on a 2004 1100 Clubsport..? once I get used to 180 or so ponies - what would be the next step - or am I better to have the existing lump fettled? Will everythign else be okay - tranny etc.

Also - how easy to upgrade the aero parts to bring the car mor ein lien with the SR4 Clubsport?


Hi, I don't think you can go much further with the ZX11/12 unit without forced induction. You're already at around 170bhp/litre, which is a pretty high state of tune. The most proven route to more power would be to a Hayabusa lump using the Prosport engine mounts on a Clubsport. Powertec will give you around 250bhp from a 1500 bored out Hayabusa, or around 210bhp from a 1300 block, at a price.

Motorbike engines come with built in gearboxes and in most cases you're best off using those. I don't know if Powertec upgrade the box in any way from standard. If you go with a more powerful engine you might need to check to see if you need Prosport drive shafts or if the later Clubsport ones are up to the job (or are even the same as the Prosport ones).

It's always possible to put completely different engines and 'boxes in, but there would almost certainly be a huge amount of fabrication involved to make sure the chassis and drivetrain could handle the additional weight and loadings, bodywork changes and so on.

Overall you *may* be better off just swapping the CS for a PS.