2.5 X-Type - What to Look Out For?
Discussion
Hi All
My brother is looking to get a X-type as his first car. He won't be doing many miles, and likes the petrol models. After doing some very cursory research, it appears the 2.0l models seem to suffer more issues than the 2.5 and 3.0; and as the 3.0 tend to fetch a bit more money he is looking at a 2.5.
Can anyone tell me what to look out for particularly? I know the transfer boxes are known weak points. What is a sign of imminent failure?
Are there any other issues to be aware of?
All feedback is gratefully received.
My brother is looking to get a X-type as his first car. He won't be doing many miles, and likes the petrol models. After doing some very cursory research, it appears the 2.0l models seem to suffer more issues than the 2.5 and 3.0; and as the 3.0 tend to fetch a bit more money he is looking at a 2.5.
Can anyone tell me what to look out for particularly? I know the transfer boxes are known weak points. What is a sign of imminent failure?
Are there any other issues to be aware of?
All feedback is gratefully received.
Dont get an auto and check for rust
Thats is really
http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/f26/x-type-outer-sill...
Thats is really
http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/f26/x-type-outer-sill...
I should have added its only the early cars that have the sill rust, 2004 on no problems at all.
But the plastic sill covers make it really hard to see, so you have to get down on the floor shine a tourch up there and give a good hard prod with a screw driver.
Some cars will be fine and others will be totaly rotten.
I got my wife a 2.5 manual SE 52 plate a couple of years ago, was only £750 with 65,000 miles on it. Thinking it was only the very very early y regs cars that had the rust issues.
Got it home pleased as punch felt like I had stolen it at that price. Then I jacked it up and the jack went into the sill. I spent an entire week fabricating repair sections and welding inner and outer sills on the N.S and a few small outer sill repair plates on the O.S, only cost £100 or so in consumables at metal, but was a real pain. If I charged for labour would have been £2k.
We ran if for some time and I sold it for £1200 which was still silly cheap, so it all worked out in the end for us and the new owner.
But it was a really wake up call, any x type before the 2004 face lift can have the rust problems.
She now has a 2004 54 plate estate and its totaly solid all the way along both sides.
But the plastic sill covers make it really hard to see, so you have to get down on the floor shine a tourch up there and give a good hard prod with a screw driver.
Some cars will be fine and others will be totaly rotten.
I got my wife a 2.5 manual SE 52 plate a couple of years ago, was only £750 with 65,000 miles on it. Thinking it was only the very very early y regs cars that had the rust issues.
Got it home pleased as punch felt like I had stolen it at that price. Then I jacked it up and the jack went into the sill. I spent an entire week fabricating repair sections and welding inner and outer sills on the N.S and a few small outer sill repair plates on the O.S, only cost £100 or so in consumables at metal, but was a real pain. If I charged for labour would have been £2k.
We ran if for some time and I sold it for £1200 which was still silly cheap, so it all worked out in the end for us and the new owner.
But it was a really wake up call, any x type before the 2004 face lift can have the rust problems.
She now has a 2004 54 plate estate and its totaly solid all the way along both sides.
Whines, clunks, groans and tiny oil leaks from driveshaft seals are signs of transfer box trouble.
The Mondeo estate sourced rear suspension control arms are particularly short-lived and should be considered semi-consumable. On the plus side, they are cheap. Signs of these needing renewal are handling anything short of 'precise' feeling and uneven rear tyre wear.
A 3.0 is worth getting though. They cost exactly the same to run but the 3.0 is much quicker.
The Mondeo estate sourced rear suspension control arms are particularly short-lived and should be considered semi-consumable. On the plus side, they are cheap. Signs of these needing renewal are handling anything short of 'precise' feeling and uneven rear tyre wear.
A 3.0 is worth getting though. They cost exactly the same to run but the 3.0 is much quicker.
All of the above is true - rust on sills before 2004, noisy or leaking transfer box. Also make sure it drives properly - the rear suspension is made of cheese. If it feels too floaty or shifts around a bit when you're cornering hard then it's not right. The control arms at the back aren't expensive and do go, so worth a haggle but the weight of the car can make the dampers sag over time even though they pass the bounce test. I've just replaced all of mine in one go and it's transformed the car.
Oh, get a 3 litre. There's not that much difference in cost and it's significantly quicker than the 2.5 and the running costs are pretty much exactly the same.
Oh, get a 3 litre. There's not that much difference in cost and it's significantly quicker than the 2.5 and the running costs are pretty much exactly the same.
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