Jaguar X308 stuck - need to get into the boot

[Baryonyx]

Evening,

I've recently been trying to get my Jaguar X308 towed off for scrap. Sadly, I made the mistake of not driving it to a scrapper when I had the chance and it's stuck on my drive now.

The main problem seems to be that the battery has gone flat. Since the battery has gone flat, I can't get it out of Park to get it onto a recovery truck. I've had three different trucks out from Co-Part, each smaller than the last, but even a Transit with a low-loader ramp on the back can't tow it off my drive. There are hedge rows on either side it would get dragged into if we hooked it up to a winch.

I've stripped down the top of the transmission selector and I see that there is no true manual release. I can get the stick into free play, but the wheels won't move whatever happens. The most I've managed is about a tenth of a turn of the wheels, and then the car rolls back

It was driving a couple of months ago, so I'm confident I can use my CTEK conditioner to rejuvenate the battery enough to get it onto a recovery truck. I can't get into the boot, however. The key fob and the button on the dash do nothing because the battery is flat. I've taken the rear number plate off to look at the holes that are supposed to allow you to unlatch the boot from the outside, however I can't figure out which one I'm supposed to use. There are two square holes that were previously hidden behind the boot, and three small circular holes on the edge of the number plate area on each side, two of which were covered with black tape which I subsequently poked through. I've tried screwdrivers inside all of them, yet I can't even feel anything that feels like a mechanism to twiddle until the boot opens. I have read that the US spec boot lid had holes in a different place, and they are the ones advocating a manual unlock via screwdriver.

Is the main boot lock electronically actuated? I have two main keys and I've tried WD40 in the lock barrel. The black keys rotate about 20 degrees clockwise and then stop. Should the key be able to open the boot even when the battery is flat?


So at the moment, I'm locked out of the fker and I'm not sure how to get in. I'm not averse to causing damage and I'm willing to drill more holes if I have to. Alternatively, would it be easy to crowbar the boot open, or to perhaps drill the lock out? Perhaps I could use an angle grinder to cut a window in the boot lid and then work through that?

Failing that, what next? Jack the rear up, put the wheels on dollies and wheel it onto the street? I had considered uncoupling the driveshaft but there isn't room under the car to do that.



ETA: I tried hooking my CTEK up to the positive terminal in the engine bay to see if it would allow me to turn the electrics back on and open the boot. Sadly, the CTEK doesn't seem to recognise the terminal and doesn't power it up. I may try using jump leads and my wife's car on that terminal which might let me open the boot so I can power up the battery and drive it again.

Edited by Baryonyx on Tuesday 17th May 19:21

[Will_S]

Remove the star shaped screwcap to the left of the Park position. Insert the ignition key into the hole and gently hold down whilst moving out of park.

Alternatively can you not open the boot with the key? You can on mine.

[Baryonyx]

Will_S said:

Remove the star shaped screwcap to the left of the Park position. Insert the ignition key into the hole and gently hold down whilst moving out of park.

Alternatively can you not open the boot with the key? You can on mine.

The keys don't open the boot lock, although perhaps they should irrespective of what the battery is doing. I'll have a look at the screw cap, I know the one you mean. Although at the moment, the plastic 'J gate' section is connected by wires but floating free otherwise. I've just got the metal stick poking out with the white plastic locking collar on it.

I've ordered a cigarette lighter charger for my CTEK, which might let me get some power into the bd via that means. See how this goes. As it stands, I'm no longer arsed about having a few quid in my pocket for the scrap value, I just want my driveway back!

[Orcadian]

If you use a conventional battery charger on the positive terminal under the bonnet (there are two, one on each side) and the other to ground, the battery can be charged - I often charge mine that way. But also as a previous poster pointed out, the key opens the boot via that little square hole in the XJ8 badge on the boot lid.

[Piersman2]

Orcadian said:

If you use a conventional battery charger on the positive terminal under the bonnet (there are two, one on each side) and the other to ground, the battery can be charged - I often charge mine that way. But also as a previous poster pointed out, the key opens the boot via that little square hole in the XJ8 badge on the boot lid.

Assuming the hole is not full of crud and seized. You may need to squirt some WD40 in there and patiently wiggle the key around until it clicks open.

Wasn't the key hole for the boot hidden out of sight up under the latch handle? It might be there if you can't find the hole in the badge.

[Orcadian]

Yes, they are often seized but 308's were all accessed through the badge. I'd still go for the charger connected under the bonnet option.
Ian

[groomi]

I did the cigar socket charger when I had the same problem. Took about 10-15mins to give it enough boost to unlock the boot.

[battered]

It's going to a breaker, I'd have an angel grinder through the boot lid and have done.

Yes, an angel grinder.

[Baryonyx]

I went back to it this morning before work with another squirt of WD40 and a spare black key. A little more pressure than I thought wise saw it unlock. It's now silky smooth. I'll get the battery charged at the weekend. I nearly jumped for joy when the lock released.

[Orcadian]

Glad you got a result - but sad that another 308 is about to bite the dust. It's always amazing to me that a once gleaming showroom exhibit can be at the end of its life in a decade and a half.

Ian😂

[Baryonyx]

Orcadian said:

Glad you got a result - but sad that another 308 is about to bite the dust. It's always amazing to me that a once gleaming showroom exhibit can be at the end of its life in a decade and a half.

Ian??

In fairness to this car, it has soldiered on for 170,000 miles at least. I didn't test drive it for long enough to spot the completely shagged out rear suspension or the failing gearbox. I bought it with 160,000 miles or so on it (and a new dash pod showing 93,000 miles) and I've racked up plenty more. I didn't even bother MOT'ing this year as I could have guessed the results from last year's advisory list.

It was perpetually weeping oil from somewhere in the engine, or burning it. I never could find a weep or leak but it was always in need of a top up. The transmission used to sound and feel like it slipped under power. It clonked and rattled from the back suspension and the front V mount must have been badly delaminated as it handled like complete crap at anything more than brisk pace and had all the symptons of a wrecked V mount. Add to that, the arches were alright when I bought it but have bubbled badly over winter, despite having had a thick Waxoyl treatment.


Yes, I'm to blame for buying it. I was won over by the fact it was relatively cheap and polished up well, and that it had no major visible rust like some I've seen. In truth, it turned out to be a shonka that was fit for smoking to work in, but that's about all. It did nearly 70,000 miles in it's first three years and it's lasted well but it has obviously been neglected well before I got hold of it. No point in me throwing several times it's value at it trying to fix it up.

[Orcadian]

I wasn't meaning to criticise, it was just a feeling of sadness that another one was going for razor blades. The fact that you ran it for so long after it was perhaps 'unloved' is good enough. My last 308 was not as good as it seemed either - rose coloured glasses and all that. My Daimler is in a different league though following experience gained with the 3.2 308.

Regards,
Ian

[Baryonyx]

Yes, it's fair to say I have learned enough about the X308 to be certain I could pick out a good one were I buying again. Most of that knowledge has come from research done after purchase as I investigated the faults on my car. The buyer's guides talk in detail about the largely irrelevant Nikasil liners but you don't hear much about the V mount, even most MOT testers miss them, apparently.

[ALTO77]

What are you thinking of in terms of replacing the Jag? I enjoy reading about your car purchases, obviously this one not so much unfortunately. Do you have any plans?

[Baryonyx]

ALTO77 said:

What are you thinking of in terms of replacing the Jag? I enjoy reading about your car purchases, obviously this one not so much unfortunately. Do you have any plans?

I've got a Honda Jazz Hybrid as the replacement. I didn't fancy another barge or anything expensive to run, so I thought I'd pick up a lightly used hybrid and run it for ten years or so alongside a decent motorbike. I'm more interested in my Triumph Daytona these days, but I do really like the Jazz. It's very handy and very well designed, nice to drive too.