Jaguar XJ8 (X308) maintenance and diagnostics
Discussion
Hello,
Having spent some time researching and looking at cars, I have recently bought a 1999 XJ8 3.2. The car has a mere 51000 miles behind it and nine service stamps in the book.
Since buying it I have changed the engine oil and filter, air filter and removed a cam cover to see if the cam chain tensioners need changing (plastic but in good condition).
The next thing I want to do is to change the secondary cam chain tensioners, followed by a gear box oil and filter change, before I get stuck into changing the rest of the chain tensioners and guides in the winter.
What I do need to know though is what diagnostic tool do I need to buy in order to read the internal gear box temperature?
Also has anyone here used this set and is it any good?:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222178516472?_trksid=p20...
Thanks,
Matt.
Having spent some time researching and looking at cars, I have recently bought a 1999 XJ8 3.2. The car has a mere 51000 miles behind it and nine service stamps in the book.
Since buying it I have changed the engine oil and filter, air filter and removed a cam cover to see if the cam chain tensioners need changing (plastic but in good condition).
The next thing I want to do is to change the secondary cam chain tensioners, followed by a gear box oil and filter change, before I get stuck into changing the rest of the chain tensioners and guides in the winter.
What I do need to know though is what diagnostic tool do I need to buy in order to read the internal gear box temperature?
Also has anyone here used this set and is it any good?:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222178516472?_trksid=p20...
Thanks,
Matt.
Edited by VonkeyVong on Friday 2nd September 22:36
Edited by VonkeyVong on Saturday 10th September 19:19
You can easily remove and replace the secondary cam tensioners without any special tools. This method is actually a lot less faffing about than the approved factory procedure.
All you need is a couple of tie wraps and a wedge of wood cut to lodge between the inlet camshaft and the side of the head to jam the secondary chain on the inlet sprocket. Wedge that in securely then tie wrap the secondary chain to the exhaust cam sprocket. Position the tie wraps as far away from the inlet cam as you can to gain maximum range of movement. Stuff a clean rag down the front of the timing cover so if you drop anything or the tensioner disintegrates as it comes out nothing can fall down into the sump.
That's the cam timing preserved. Now remove the exhaust cam by gradually and progressively loosening the bearing caps a quarter of a turn at a time to release the valve spring tension. Gently prise the cam up off it's lower bearings as you loosen the caps and let it come up with them. Remove the caps and bolts and keep them precisely in order and orientation - they are numbered anyway but that's always a good habit to keep.
Lift the cam away from the head, remove the tensioner bolts then ease the tensioner away from the head. It's a bit tight and fiddly but it will come out. Fit a new tensioner then refit the cam, again gently and progressively tightening the cap bolts a little at a time each. Torque to around 25Nm. Remove the tensioner locking pins then pre tension the secondary cam chain as much as you can by turning the engine over by hand. You will probably get second or two of chain rattle on first start up anyway but taking up as much slack as you can beforehand minimizes the shock load on the chain.
If you fit metal tensioners you must use new bolts - they require different length ones to the plastic type. You can usually get away with cleaning and re using the seals. Worth a try to save some cash.
No need to have any concerns about getting the gearbox oil level spot on or measuring the precise temperature on first fill if you allow the gearbox to cool overnight after filling and do a final level check from stone cold next morning. That guarantees the oil will still be in the recommended temp range.
Some may dribble out or you may need to add a drop more.
All you need is a couple of tie wraps and a wedge of wood cut to lodge between the inlet camshaft and the side of the head to jam the secondary chain on the inlet sprocket. Wedge that in securely then tie wrap the secondary chain to the exhaust cam sprocket. Position the tie wraps as far away from the inlet cam as you can to gain maximum range of movement. Stuff a clean rag down the front of the timing cover so if you drop anything or the tensioner disintegrates as it comes out nothing can fall down into the sump.
That's the cam timing preserved. Now remove the exhaust cam by gradually and progressively loosening the bearing caps a quarter of a turn at a time to release the valve spring tension. Gently prise the cam up off it's lower bearings as you loosen the caps and let it come up with them. Remove the caps and bolts and keep them precisely in order and orientation - they are numbered anyway but that's always a good habit to keep.
Lift the cam away from the head, remove the tensioner bolts then ease the tensioner away from the head. It's a bit tight and fiddly but it will come out. Fit a new tensioner then refit the cam, again gently and progressively tightening the cap bolts a little at a time each. Torque to around 25Nm. Remove the tensioner locking pins then pre tension the secondary cam chain as much as you can by turning the engine over by hand. You will probably get second or two of chain rattle on first start up anyway but taking up as much slack as you can beforehand minimizes the shock load on the chain.
If you fit metal tensioners you must use new bolts - they require different length ones to the plastic type. You can usually get away with cleaning and re using the seals. Worth a try to save some cash.
No need to have any concerns about getting the gearbox oil level spot on or measuring the precise temperature on first fill if you allow the gearbox to cool overnight after filling and do a final level check from stone cold next morning. That guarantees the oil will still be in the recommended temp range.
Some may dribble out or you may need to add a drop more.
Thanks for the info Steve. I plan on replacing the primary tensioners and guides at a later date, can the secondary tensioners be reused or should I just do the whole lot at the same time?
I am not sure if I am following you with the gear box oil change. Do I drop the oil,change the filter, refill the oil, run the engine and cycle the gears, allow the car to cool over night and top it up and seal when cold? Or warm it up from cold for the final check?
Your advice is very much appreciated.
Matt.
I am not sure if I am following you with the gear box oil change. Do I drop the oil,change the filter, refill the oil, run the engine and cycle the gears, allow the car to cool over night and top it up and seal when cold? Or warm it up from cold for the final check?
Your advice is very much appreciated.
Matt.
Edited by VonkeyVong on Monday 5th September 20:25
VonkeyVong said:
Thanks for the info Steve. I plan on replacing the primary tensioners and guides at a later date, can the secondary tensioners be reused or should I just do the whole lot at the same time?
I am not sure if I am following you with the gear box oil change. Do I drop the oil,change the filter, refill the oil, run the engine and cycle the gears, allow the car to cool over night and top it up and seal when cold? Or warm it up from cold for the final check?
Your advice is very much appreciated.
Matt.
The primary tensioner bodies can crack but as they don't operate directly on the chain and therefore not subject to the same shear force any damage isn't as likely to cause catastrophic failure. With your mileage and history I'd be happy to leave well alone after a good look at the chains, guides and sprockets - chances are they'll be fine. No reason not to re use the previously replaced tensioners if you do go for the extra work but make sure you keep the locking pins.I am not sure if I am following you with the gear box oil change. Do I drop the oil,change the filter, refill the oil, run the engine and cycle the gears, allow the car to cool over night and top it up and seal when cold? Or warm it up from cold for the final check?
Your advice is very much appreciated.
Matt.
Edited by VonkeyVong on Monday 5th September 20:25
Do the last gearbox level check twice. Once when finishing the oil change then next morning when cold start up, cycle the gears as before and allow excess to drain or top up as required.
I have used the XJ to go to work a couple of days this week. When I got home this evening I set to and started to get everything off in order to replace the secondary tensioners. At the same time I took the water pump off and it is a plastic impellor type, so I will also be replacing that.
The one thing I got stuck with was the thermostat housing which I want to swap for an aluminium one. Can it be replaced without removing the inlet manifold? The two bolts at the back are practically inaccessible.
Matt.
The one thing I got stuck with was the thermostat housing which I want to swap for an aluminium one. Can it be replaced without removing the inlet manifold? The two bolts at the back are practically inaccessible.
Matt.
Well I have now done the engine work. Secondary chain tensioners replaced (primarys and guides looked good from what is vissible with the cam covers off. The water pump was easy enough to change and presented no problems, but the thermostat housing was a PITA.
Here are some pictures of the secondary tensioners which were starting to pit on the face of the shoes and crack on the side at 51700 miles.
I flushed and refilled the coolant this evening, so all that is left to do is take it for a test drive tomorrow to make sure there are no leaks.
Matt.
Here are some pictures of the secondary tensioners which were starting to pit on the face of the shoes and crack on the side at 51700 miles.
I flushed and refilled the coolant this evening, so all that is left to do is take it for a test drive tomorrow to make sure there are no leaks.
Matt.
VonkeyVong said:
Well I have now done the engine work. Secondary chain tensioners replaced (primarys and guides looked good from what is vissible with the cam covers off. The water pump was easy enough to change and presented no problems, but the thermostat housing was a PITA.
Here are some pictures of the secondary tensioners which were starting to pit on the face of the shoes and crack on the side at 51700 miles.
I flushed and refilled the coolant this evening, so all that is left to do is take it for a test drive tomorrow to make sure there are no leaks.
Matt.
Seen far worse than that... Although there's a slim chance with a 1999 car they may not be the originals. If they are then the condition and low wear suggests a positive indication the rest of the timing gear is fine.Here are some pictures of the secondary tensioners which were starting to pit on the face of the shoes and crack on the side at 51700 miles.
I flushed and refilled the coolant this evening, so all that is left to do is take it for a test drive tomorrow to make sure there are no leaks.
Matt.
From what I remember of changing he thermostat housing (good mod switching to the Ali type). The fixings at the back are a PITA but there's no need to remove the manifold. Get yourself a sacrificial 8mm spanner and bend it in a vice to make a tool that you can wriggle down to get onto the bolt heads. Enjoy your x308, great cars.
Hi newbie on here, think this is a old post but I found a site,
http://www.pbase.com/padme002/thermo_tower01
I hope it helps someone who is thinking of changing the cooler tower. Theres also lots more workshop walkthroughs this guy has done. All credit goes to the guy Jeremy J.
Hope this is ok to share admin.
Lance
http://www.pbase.com/padme002/thermo_tower01
I hope it helps someone who is thinking of changing the cooler tower. Theres also lots more workshop walkthroughs this guy has done. All credit goes to the guy Jeremy J.
Hope this is ok to share admin.
Lance
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