possible x type buy, advice please?
Discussion
Hi guys, currently driving a e46 325i compact BMW and looking to get a 330i as Im on a budget at the moment and cant justify Audi S4's or M3's any more and as I was browsing Autotrader I stumbled on an old 3.0 X-type for 800 quid with less than 100k on the clock, in comparison to a half decent 330i petrol, its a fraction of the cost, the only knowledge I have for these cars is from the old top gear review years ago and they happened to like it, so all I want to know is that is it worth a punt? the performance seems to be much the same as my 325, so slower than a 330 as I guess its a bit heavier than an e46, plus the 4wd prob doesn't help either, but are they tuneable to a point? reliable? tips please, thanks for any help
I had 2 X TYPES 2.5 V6 for 13 years and did 210,000 in them so a bit of knowledge. The 3.0 is the same Ford duratec as the 2.5, but was heavily worked on by Jaguar.
The engine could take a tune, unfortunately the AWD transfer box will not, any performance improvement would have to come in the exhaust area. The achilles heel of the AWD version is the transfer box. I had one go on my 2nd X type @ 47,000 a recon transfer box and labour came to £1400 8 years ago at a Jag Specialist. The other thing to check is when the Jag was registered pre- Maerch 2006 you pay I think £285 road tax, but my last one I bought new in May 2006 and last year 12 months road tax was £525, the engine is dirty 234 co2. The X type from the day of launch and never was cured can eat inside front tyres the outside can look perfect turn the wheel and the inside you can be on thread! The other main issue is RUST and you can't spot it, the outer sill is one piece full length plastic but the rust is occurring behind this and there's many a horror story of cadbury's flake unseen unless you get the car up on a hoist! The cars handle really well, but they are heavy and if you hear thudding bushes need replacing. Only other problem can be door lock and window activators but can pick them up on flea bay. Both my X type V6 engines and car interior were rock solid, it's the ancillaries that cause issue, and the chocolate transfer box, if you test an X type manual or automatic and there's any kind of noise coming from under the dashboard walk away, also get the car jacked up to see those sills. My 2006 was perfect when sold last year, but my Jag Specialist had given up counting how many he'd had to weld to pass MOT. My last car had done 150,000 when I px-ed it and the reason it was clear of rot was it hurtled down the motorway every day and thus any crap was washed away at speed. It's the low mileage cars that just run around town that can build up the damp muck that then traps water behind the plastic sill and sets off the erosion process.
The engine could take a tune, unfortunately the AWD transfer box will not, any performance improvement would have to come in the exhaust area. The achilles heel of the AWD version is the transfer box. I had one go on my 2nd X type @ 47,000 a recon transfer box and labour came to £1400 8 years ago at a Jag Specialist. The other thing to check is when the Jag was registered pre- Maerch 2006 you pay I think £285 road tax, but my last one I bought new in May 2006 and last year 12 months road tax was £525, the engine is dirty 234 co2. The X type from the day of launch and never was cured can eat inside front tyres the outside can look perfect turn the wheel and the inside you can be on thread! The other main issue is RUST and you can't spot it, the outer sill is one piece full length plastic but the rust is occurring behind this and there's many a horror story of cadbury's flake unseen unless you get the car up on a hoist! The cars handle really well, but they are heavy and if you hear thudding bushes need replacing. Only other problem can be door lock and window activators but can pick them up on flea bay. Both my X type V6 engines and car interior were rock solid, it's the ancillaries that cause issue, and the chocolate transfer box, if you test an X type manual or automatic and there's any kind of noise coming from under the dashboard walk away, also get the car jacked up to see those sills. My 2006 was perfect when sold last year, but my Jag Specialist had given up counting how many he'd had to weld to pass MOT. My last car had done 150,000 when I px-ed it and the reason it was clear of rot was it hurtled down the motorway every day and thus any crap was washed away at speed. It's the low mileage cars that just run around town that can build up the damp muck that then traps water behind the plastic sill and sets off the erosion process.
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