Which E-Type? Opinions please :-)
Discussion
The V12 has the advantage of power steering if your wife is going to drive it, but it is definately NOT a sports car in standard form, also it is longer and bulkier than the series 1 or 2.
Best model IMHO is a series 1 4.2. This has the classic looks of the original model but with much better all synchro gearbox and other improvements.
Best model IMHO is a series 1 4.2. This has the classic looks of the original model but with much better all synchro gearbox and other improvements.
mph said:
Best model IMHO is a series 1 4.2. This has the classic looks of the original model but with much better all synchro gearbox and other improvements.
Any more of this and I'm going to start a Moss Box appreciation society.
Anyone who can't handle one must be a girl, just like Jeremy Clarkson. a8hex said:
mph said:
Best model IMHO is a series 1 4.2. This has the classic looks of the original model but with much better all synchro gearbox and other improvements.
Any more of this and I'm going to start a Moss Box appreciation society.
Anyone who can't handle one must be a girl, just like Jeremy Clarkson.
Exactly
GTWayne said:
a8hex said:
must be a girl, just like Jeremy Clarkson.
Ye Gods man, what type of 'girl' are you talking about! Please don't tell us that Kylie is a drag queen or some such
Well I wasn't meaning anything to do with the arrangement of chromosomes. At least not if the rate I've just been driven around Goodwood by a lovely lady in her Lynx is anything to go by.
Having owned an E-Type (which was wonderful, and I'm sorry I sold it) but not being a fanatical purist, can I offer the following advice :-
1. Spend as much as you can to get one that is fully sorted, unless you specifically want to take on a project. The 'saving' is a delusion. The happiness of your experience will be defined by the quality of the car you buy. Simple as that.
2. It may well be worth speaking to Henry Pearman of Eagle E-Types, because although the costs can be high, they do understand and can sort out problems.
3. The purists always tell you to go for a Series 1 3.8 or 4.2 Coupe or roadster - I respect their opinions, but I think that their point of view is academic. If you are not yourself a purist, buy what you like. How fast/sporting it is, is something in this day and age you can decide yourself.
4. If you are big, you will find the S1 & 2 quite tight. The Series 3, which I had, had plenty of space. The V12 engine has a charm all of its own, and if I was buying again, which I will do at some point, I will buy another Series 3.
5. The coupe is structurally stronger than the drophead, and the drophead will flex about its weakest point which is the sill at the rear door edge, so however good the car is you will I suspect need to look at this periodically.
6.You cannot assume that if you are buying from a dealer that he has sorted all the issues out - in fairness its not his job. See as many as you can before you make your mind up. You will learn quite a bit from the comparison exercise. look particularly at the details like gutter details and inside the fuel filler. If the car has been bodged up that is where you will see it.
7. It is well worth paying for a specialist to examine the car for you, then you have a report you can refer to if you ever want to sell. But he can't do the legwork for you, you need to find the car you want. There are LHD models, American,'rubber bumper' models, models with air conditioning, models which have been converted. If you are laying out a substantial sum and the car is for use in the UK, I suspect you want an original UK supplied car, and one whose chassis and engine numbers correspond to the original build sheet. This is available for a small charge from the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust.
8. To state the obvious, the more information there is about the history of the car the better informed you are. Is there a service/MOT/Tax Disc history. Has it been retrimmed, has it been resprayed? Almost certainly. Using what? Do you know what an original E-Type interior looks like? You might be well advised to buy a copy of the book Original E-Type Jaguar, by Philip Porter, I think.
If you don't want to lay out a huge sum have you tried an XKR? All the best!
1. Spend as much as you can to get one that is fully sorted, unless you specifically want to take on a project. The 'saving' is a delusion. The happiness of your experience will be defined by the quality of the car you buy. Simple as that.
2. It may well be worth speaking to Henry Pearman of Eagle E-Types, because although the costs can be high, they do understand and can sort out problems.
3. The purists always tell you to go for a Series 1 3.8 or 4.2 Coupe or roadster - I respect their opinions, but I think that their point of view is academic. If you are not yourself a purist, buy what you like. How fast/sporting it is, is something in this day and age you can decide yourself.
4. If you are big, you will find the S1 & 2 quite tight. The Series 3, which I had, had plenty of space. The V12 engine has a charm all of its own, and if I was buying again, which I will do at some point, I will buy another Series 3.
5. The coupe is structurally stronger than the drophead, and the drophead will flex about its weakest point which is the sill at the rear door edge, so however good the car is you will I suspect need to look at this periodically.
6.You cannot assume that if you are buying from a dealer that he has sorted all the issues out - in fairness its not his job. See as many as you can before you make your mind up. You will learn quite a bit from the comparison exercise. look particularly at the details like gutter details and inside the fuel filler. If the car has been bodged up that is where you will see it.
7. It is well worth paying for a specialist to examine the car for you, then you have a report you can refer to if you ever want to sell. But he can't do the legwork for you, you need to find the car you want. There are LHD models, American,'rubber bumper' models, models with air conditioning, models which have been converted. If you are laying out a substantial sum and the car is for use in the UK, I suspect you want an original UK supplied car, and one whose chassis and engine numbers correspond to the original build sheet. This is available for a small charge from the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust.
8. To state the obvious, the more information there is about the history of the car the better informed you are. Is there a service/MOT/Tax Disc history. Has it been retrimmed, has it been resprayed? Almost certainly. Using what? Do you know what an original E-Type interior looks like? You might be well advised to buy a copy of the book Original E-Type Jaguar, by Philip Porter, I think.
If you don't want to lay out a huge sum have you tried an XKR? All the best!
a8hex said:
triple7 said:
Sacralige I expect, but I was watching a Top Gear episode on the telly the other day when they had that 'updated' E-Type costing £90k, which I would love. Who did the mods to the cooling system, brakes etc.
G
G
Eagle I think, they are usually who Top Gear use for E-Types. They also supplied the E that JC took to meet the neighbours.
www.eaglegb.com
Eagle are great. My brother has had 2 cars from them and both have been fantastic (his old 3.8 series one, now exchanged for a lightweight, is at the bottom of page 3 of their current brochure).
cy88 said:
Eagle are great. My brother has had 2 cars from them and both have been fantastic (his old 3.8 series one, now exchanged for a lightweight, is at the bottom of page 3 of their current brochure).
Your brother's a lucky guy, I followed Jules Holland's light weight replica through a small tunnel the other week. What a beautiful sound.
To add to Cardigankid's excellent comments above:
Series I FHC & OTS - the originals with the most wonderful lines - not much room in the footwell in the early flat floor versions. No synchromesh between 1st & 2nd gear. Very poor headlights and potentially dangerous brake fade. A sportscar of unparalleled lineage. Some purists prefer the 3.8 engine but 4.2 seems to go on and on and on.....
Series 1.5 - early release of Series II to meet U.S. safetly requirements - higher back bumper and open headlights.
Series II FHC & OTS - more comfortable seats, better brakes and open headlights. All synchro gearbox. All have 4.2l engines. As per Series 1.5, back bumper raised so original lines of Series I slightly compromised. Still a sportscar but only just.
Series I & II 2+2 - compromised roof lines to accommodate back seats. Looks odd.
Series III - v12 5.3l engine - all FHCs are 2+2. Power steering and some even have aircon. Undoubtably a grand tourer - big, fast and flatulent.
Series I OTS most expensive (£25k - £100k)
Series I FHC & Series II OTS (£20k - £70k)
Series III OTS (£17k - £70K)
Series II FHC (£17k - £45k)
Series III FHC (£15k - £50k)
Some hints on ownership (apologies for teaching grandmother to suck eggs):
Make sure your garage is big enough - a Series III is 15ft 3in long (I think) and 9ft wide with both doors fully open
Buy the best car you can afford - skimping is a false economy.
Find your nearest classic Jag specialist and go and chat him up. Find out who he thinks are the best dealerships or if he knows of any decent cars on the market.
Prices vary enormously - talk to the Jaguar Enthusists Club (www.jec.org.uk) for sound guidance on what to pay, a good supply of adverts in the club magazine and discounted insurance for members. (My insurance only costs £200/year, fully comp, unlimited mileage and I can use it for my daily commute if I want.)
Parts are easy to get hold of - Jag sold 75,000+ E Types and there are reputedly 15,000+ still on the road (or stuck away in garages).
Heat from the engine soaks into the cabin so it can get very hot in the summer.
For some bizzare reason third gear is difficult to get if you've got short legs.
Rusty sills are the worst nightmare and cost more than a few bob to fix.
2+2s and anything in white or primrose yellow are the most difficult to sell.
I have owned a 1970 Series II FHC for 5 years and love every inch of the smelly, unreliable, hot and rattly monster. I've just spent the last 2 weeks fitting a new water pump and alternator and desperately trying to tune 3 recently re-furbed SU carbs. Eventualy I sought professional help from a local specialist and it's now running like a dream.
My final point is that owning a classic car is often compared to "open wallet surgery". Go into it with your eyes wide open.
Series I FHC & OTS - the originals with the most wonderful lines - not much room in the footwell in the early flat floor versions. No synchromesh between 1st & 2nd gear. Very poor headlights and potentially dangerous brake fade. A sportscar of unparalleled lineage. Some purists prefer the 3.8 engine but 4.2 seems to go on and on and on.....
Series 1.5 - early release of Series II to meet U.S. safetly requirements - higher back bumper and open headlights.
Series II FHC & OTS - more comfortable seats, better brakes and open headlights. All synchro gearbox. All have 4.2l engines. As per Series 1.5, back bumper raised so original lines of Series I slightly compromised. Still a sportscar but only just.
Series I & II 2+2 - compromised roof lines to accommodate back seats. Looks odd.
Series III - v12 5.3l engine - all FHCs are 2+2. Power steering and some even have aircon. Undoubtably a grand tourer - big, fast and flatulent.
Series I OTS most expensive (£25k - £100k)
Series I FHC & Series II OTS (£20k - £70k)
Series III OTS (£17k - £70K)
Series II FHC (£17k - £45k)
Series III FHC (£15k - £50k)
Some hints on ownership (apologies for teaching grandmother to suck eggs):
Make sure your garage is big enough - a Series III is 15ft 3in long (I think) and 9ft wide with both doors fully open
Buy the best car you can afford - skimping is a false economy.
Find your nearest classic Jag specialist and go and chat him up. Find out who he thinks are the best dealerships or if he knows of any decent cars on the market.
Prices vary enormously - talk to the Jaguar Enthusists Club (www.jec.org.uk) for sound guidance on what to pay, a good supply of adverts in the club magazine and discounted insurance for members. (My insurance only costs £200/year, fully comp, unlimited mileage and I can use it for my daily commute if I want.)
Parts are easy to get hold of - Jag sold 75,000+ E Types and there are reputedly 15,000+ still on the road (or stuck away in garages).
Heat from the engine soaks into the cabin so it can get very hot in the summer.
For some bizzare reason third gear is difficult to get if you've got short legs.
Rusty sills are the worst nightmare and cost more than a few bob to fix.
2+2s and anything in white or primrose yellow are the most difficult to sell.
I have owned a 1970 Series II FHC for 5 years and love every inch of the smelly, unreliable, hot and rattly monster. I've just spent the last 2 weeks fitting a new water pump and alternator and desperately trying to tune 3 recently re-furbed SU carbs. Eventualy I sought professional help from a local specialist and it's now running like a dream.
My final point is that owning a classic car is often compared to "open wallet surgery". Go into it with your eyes wide open.
Great posting.
but a couple of points.
The Moss box has synchomesh on second gear, it's just not as strong as that on 3 & 4.
All 4.2L models get the all synchro gear box.
The 3.8 is supposed to rev better than the 4.2. It was in the 3.8s that they managed to get 150MPH. Normal Dewis certainly reckoned that 150 was quite doable. Perhaps test drivers didn't have to take so much notice of redlines all the time.
I thought the brake fade problem was due to the servo and was easily fixed by using a different one. Don't quote me, I've not got an E. (yet)
Series I & II 2+2 - compromised roof lines to accommodate back seats. Looks odd.
I was talking to someone about this the other day and commented that I'd seen one I liked and he piped up with, "Yes they seem to work in some colours, I like them in that light metallic blue they did" which was funny as that was the colour of the one I looked at.
One point I'd add to your guide, make sure you can actually fit in the car and drive it. There isn't that much space inside.
My final point is that owning a classic car is often compared to "open wallet surgery". Go into it with your eyes wide open.
Isn't that true of any car. New cars depreciate at a painful rate.
But if you buy the wrong classic then yes it will be a money pit.
but a couple of points.
porcus volans said:
To add to Cardigankid's excellent comments above:
Series I FHC & OTS - the originals with the most wonderful lines - not much room in the footwell in the early flat floor versions. No synchromesh between 1st & 2nd gear. Very poor headlights and potentially dangerous brake fade. A sportscar of unparalleled lineage. Some purists prefer the 3.8 engine but 4.2 seems to go on and on and on.....
Series I FHC & OTS - the originals with the most wonderful lines - not much room in the footwell in the early flat floor versions. No synchromesh between 1st & 2nd gear. Very poor headlights and potentially dangerous brake fade. A sportscar of unparalleled lineage. Some purists prefer the 3.8 engine but 4.2 seems to go on and on and on.....
The Moss box has synchomesh on second gear, it's just not as strong as that on 3 & 4.
All 4.2L models get the all synchro gear box.
The 3.8 is supposed to rev better than the 4.2. It was in the 3.8s that they managed to get 150MPH. Normal Dewis certainly reckoned that 150 was quite doable. Perhaps test drivers didn't have to take so much notice of redlines all the time.
I thought the brake fade problem was due to the servo and was easily fixed by using a different one. Don't quote me, I've not got an E. (yet)
porcus volans said:
Series I & II 2+2 - compromised roof lines to accommodate back seats. Looks odd.
I was talking to someone about this the other day and commented that I'd seen one I liked and he piped up with, "Yes they seem to work in some colours, I like them in that light metallic blue they did" which was funny as that was the colour of the one I looked at.
One point I'd add to your guide, make sure you can actually fit in the car and drive it. There isn't that much space inside.
porcus volans said:
My final point is that owning a classic car is often compared to "open wallet surgery". Go into it with your eyes wide open.
Isn't that true of any car. New cars depreciate at a painful rate.
But if you buy the wrong classic then yes it will be a money pit.
An Eagle E-Type will set you back a lot more than 90k and if you want to get one built to order you will have to wait three years.
Best to get a nicely restored car and have a few mods done for everyday use. I suggest uprate the brakes and cooling as a minimum.My modified S1 fhc went to a chap who found his boxter too boring, as far as I know he still uses the E as an everyday car. For a specialist I recommend Classic Motor Cars in Bridgnorth Shropshire.
Best to get a nicely restored car and have a few mods done for everyday use. I suggest uprate the brakes and cooling as a minimum.My modified S1 fhc went to a chap who found his boxter too boring, as far as I know he still uses the E as an everyday car. For a specialist I recommend Classic Motor Cars in Bridgnorth Shropshire.
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