Lubegard ?

Author
Discussion

waggy

Original Poster:

197 posts

234 months

Saturday 8th September 2007
quotequote all
s type 3.0 2001 ,, ive got a problem with the autogearbox 5R55N shuddering on lock up and been told its the torque convertor and can be cured by adding LUBEGARD additive to the gearbox fluid,, has anybody tried this and where can you buy it,, google seems to pick up all american sites,, any help appreciated,

alex

Triple7

4,013 posts

238 months

Saturday 8th September 2007
quotequote all
I would start with just a gearbox fluid change/top up.

G


Trooper2

6,676 posts

232 months

Saturday 8th September 2007
quotequote all
Triple7 said:
I would start with just a gearbox fluid change/top up.

G
yes...and filter replacement.

With a little Googling I have come up with 3 U.K. transmission shops that are suppossed to stock Lubegard products.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_31.ht...

http://www.3d-transmissions.co.uk/gearbox_lubes.ht...

http://www.transcentre.co.uk/

waggy

Original Poster:

197 posts

234 months

Saturday 8th September 2007
quotequote all
Triple7 said:
I would start with just a gearbox fluid change/top up.

G


i had the gearbox repaired 3 months ago, they replaced the 4-3 prestroke spring as it kept going into limp mode,, whilst doing this they replaced the atf and filter,, since then ive had this vibration when accelerating in 4th and 5th gear,
the gearbox repairer said it wasnt the gearbox ,, but on a usa website it said these gearboxes need LUBEGARD to stop vibration in torque converter when in lock up,,
as the car only goes into lock up in 4th and 5th gear this may be whats happening,,,

alex

Triple7

4,013 posts

238 months

Saturday 8th September 2007
quotequote all
Sorry, but isn't it up to the repaier to 'repair' the car. they can't fix the g/box and take you money and say that's all guv, nothing to do with me. if the gearbox isn't working after you took it to be fixed, take it back and tell them to fix it?!

G

Jaguar steve

9,232 posts

211 months

Sunday 9th September 2007
quotequote all
Triple7 said:
Sorry, but isn't it up to the repaier to 'repair' the car. they can't fix the g/box and take you money and say that's all guv, nothing to do with me. if the gearbox isn't working after you took it to be fixed, take it back and tell them to fix it?!

G
And if they find out you've added Lubegard/snake oil/whatever to the 'box in order to fix the problem for them, that's just the excuse they will be looking for to say the fault is not their responsibility....

yikes Don't do it yikes

Jaguar steve

9,232 posts

211 months

Sunday 9th September 2007
quotequote all
waggy said:
Triple7 said:
I would start with just a gearbox fluid change/top up.

G


i had the gearbox repaired 3 months ago, they replaced the 4-3 prestroke spring as it kept going into limp mode,, whilst doing this they replaced the atf and filter,, since then ive had this vibration when accelerating in 4th and 5th gear,
the gearbox repairer said it wasnt the gearbox ,, but on a usa website it said these gearboxes need LUBEGARD to stop vibration in torque converter when in lock up,,
as the car only goes into lock up in 4th and 5th gear this may be whats happening,,,

alex
Mmmm, nice breakfast lick ...back again.

You are going to have a problem proving the gearbox was fine before the repair, and has vibration problems after, especially as it's a older car.

I'd suggest having a diagnostic check done on the Jaguar WDS computer. I had a very similar problem with my XJ8, which turned out to be nothing more compliacted than a throttle re-set. What was happening, and it's a common problem, was the gearbox was not reading the throttle position properly, and thought throttle position and demand was much lower than it was. Hence the gearbox was staying in higher gears much longer than it should making the engine labour.

There was almost no part load downchange, and the only way the box would change down was on kickdown.

You should almost be able to play tunes with the engine by simply changing the throttle position. In fifth, bit more should drop to fourth, and a bit more still should drop to third, a bit less should give a up change to fourth and backing off more will get the box back to fifth. If the box and engine are set up properly it's really that easy to do.

You may have a worn or incorrectly refitted propshaft coupling, wheel bearing (yes really) or problem with tyres.

It's worth an hour or so on the WDS to find out what the problem is. It may get you the proof you need to go back to the guys who did your box repair and get it sorted

Hope this helps

JS


waggy

Original Poster:

197 posts

234 months

Sunday 9th September 2007
quotequote all
steve , thanx the info ,the car is smooth through all the gears and if you use kick down in 5th it changes down ok and accelerates smoothly,, it only happens in lock up if you gently accelerate, it makes me think its the torque convertor shuddering,, it happens at any speed , even doing over 70 at 2500 revs, if you accelerate the car shudders, if you use kick down it doesnt,,

i found an american website because this gearbox is used on the Lincoln,, and they said you get shudder on lock up due to the ATF used,, the gearbox must be filled with the correct fluid, if you use LUBEGARD this will ensure the fluid used works correctly,, thats why i posted about lubegard,, i think the automatic repairer used normal atf and not the 1 ford recommends,, i could buy the correct fluid but it takes 9litres so will be expensive and mean i have to drain all the fluid out,,, 1 bottle of lubegard costs £10 and would only need to drain half a pint,,

i will order some and try it,, if it doesnt work then i will look at your ideas,,

uptomyelbows

1 posts

211 months

Sunday 9th September 2007
quotequote all
Not an expert, but from the symptoms you describe it sounds like a lock up clutch slipping (or slip/sticking for want of a better description) to me.

I would be a little suspicious of using an additive as it may just mask the symptoms by allowing the clutch to slip more readily.

Trooper2

6,676 posts

232 months

Monday 10th September 2007
quotequote all
I had an XJ VDP I worked on and it had similar symptoms to what you're describing, waggy, but it only did it when accelerating lightly up a hill, when cold.(Maybe yours is further along?) It felt like the boot was half full of water and sloshing. I was the 3rd technician to attempt to repair it and after much thought and ruling things out, decided to put a new torque converter in it and that worked.

Edited by Trooper2 on Monday 10th September 00:20

Jaguar steve

9,232 posts

211 months

Monday 10th September 2007
quotequote all
waggy said:
steve , thanx the info ,the car is smooth through all the gears and if you use kick down in 5th it changes down ok and accelerates smoothly,, it only happens in lock up if you gently accelerate, it makes me think its the torque convertor shuddering,, it happens at any speed , even doing over 70 at 2500 revs, if you accelerate the car shudders, if you use kick down it doesnt,,

i found an american website because this gearbox is used on the Lincoln,, and they said you get shudder on lock up due to the ATF used,, the gearbox must be filled with the correct fluid, if you use LUBEGARD this will ensure the fluid used works correctly,, thats why i posted about lubegard,, i think the automatic repairer used normal atf and not the 1 ford recommends,, i could buy the correct fluid but it takes 9litres so will be expensive and mean i have to drain all the fluid out,,, 1 bottle of lubegard costs £10 and would only need to drain half a pint,,

i will order some and try it,, if it doesnt work then i will look at your ideas,,
There's a clue in your last post about the wrong ATF fluid being used, if it has and since it has, the vibration started, then a change back to the correct fluid is surely the answer. Obviously this replacement oil is not suitable for the 'box so even if you do solve the vibration with Lubegard you may be storing up trouble for later on

You won't get all the incorrect fluid out in one go as its usually impossible to completely drain the tourque converter. It's hassle and expense but I'd be tempted to have a couple of oil changes using the correct fluid

(maybe at the garages expense if you can get evidence they've put the wrong one in)

Just MO of course, let the PH collective know how you get on