Discussion
I'm just thinking that you've said you've tried dozens of times to start it and your battery could of taken a hammering by now inspite of any other problems.
I don't know your level of mechanical experience so apologies if I'm being condescending but I'd hate to see a V8 jag owner in peril! IMO, it would make more sense to check for fuel/spark before worrying about compression and flooding. I'm not all that sure flooding is a real problem for the X308s....
So, without patronising, I would do the following;
1. Have you taken the plugs out and checked for a spark and made sure the gaps are inside tolerance? (let me know if you need the gap size I'll look it up).
2. Have you also tried making sure the fuel pump(s) switches on when the ignition is turned on? -This seems unlikely being as you said you can smell fuel.
3. Check the voltage across the battery terminals (I know it may of been fine before but the starter is piss poor on the Jags and it mightn't have enough current now).
4. Do a compression test. I believe 220-260 psi is the norm (I think! do a search on the jagforums as I asked this recently)
HTH
G
I don't know your level of mechanical experience so apologies if I'm being condescending but I'd hate to see a V8 jag owner in peril! IMO, it would make more sense to check for fuel/spark before worrying about compression and flooding. I'm not all that sure flooding is a real problem for the X308s....
So, without patronising, I would do the following;
1. Have you taken the plugs out and checked for a spark and made sure the gaps are inside tolerance? (let me know if you need the gap size I'll look it up).
2. Have you also tried making sure the fuel pump(s) switches on when the ignition is turned on? -This seems unlikely being as you said you can smell fuel.
3. Check the voltage across the battery terminals (I know it may of been fine before but the starter is piss poor on the Jags and it mightn't have enough current now).
4. Do a compression test. I believe 220-260 psi is the norm (I think! do a search on the jagforums as I asked this recently)
HTH
G
[quote=G]I'm just thinking that you've said you've tried dozens of times to start it and your battery could of taken a hammering by now inspite of any other problems.
I don't know your level of mechanical experience so apologies if I'm being condescending but I'd hate to see a V8 jag owner in peril! IMO, it would make more sense to check for fuel/spark before worrying about compression and flooding. I'm not all that sure flooding is a real problem for the X308s....
So, without patronising, I would do the following;
1. Have you taken the plugs out and checked for a spark and made sure the gaps are inside tolerance? (let me know if you need the gap size I'll look it up).
2. Have you also tried making sure the fuel pump(s) switches on when the ignition is turned on? -This seems unlikely being as you said you can smell fuel.
3. Check the voltage across the battery terminals (I know it may of been fine before but the starter is piss poor on the Jags and it mightn't have enough current now).
4. Do a compression test. I believe 220-260 psi is the norm (I think! do a search on the jagforums as I asked this recently)
HTH
G
[/quote]
Think the x308 is renowned for flooding.
If not left to go through its warm up, it throws another load of fuel in, thinking its still cold, washes the coke of the top of the pistons, this gets stuck in the valves, loses compression...and so on..finishes up spinning over at great knots throwing more and more fuel in.
Compression of 120 poor, 150 +, good.
Hope that helps.
I don't know your level of mechanical experience so apologies if I'm being condescending but I'd hate to see a V8 jag owner in peril! IMO, it would make more sense to check for fuel/spark before worrying about compression and flooding. I'm not all that sure flooding is a real problem for the X308s....
So, without patronising, I would do the following;
1. Have you taken the plugs out and checked for a spark and made sure the gaps are inside tolerance? (let me know if you need the gap size I'll look it up).
2. Have you also tried making sure the fuel pump(s) switches on when the ignition is turned on? -This seems unlikely being as you said you can smell fuel.
3. Check the voltage across the battery terminals (I know it may of been fine before but the starter is piss poor on the Jags and it mightn't have enough current now).
4. Do a compression test. I believe 220-260 psi is the norm (I think! do a search on the jagforums as I asked this recently)
HTH
G
[/quote]
Think the x308 is renowned for flooding.
If not left to go through its warm up, it throws another load of fuel in, thinking its still cold, washes the coke of the top of the pistons, this gets stuck in the valves, loses compression...and so on..finishes up spinning over at great knots throwing more and more fuel in.
Compression of 120 poor, 150 +, good.
Hope that helps.
drummerboyXJR said:
Think the x308 is renowned for flooding.
If not left to go through its warm up, it throws another load of fuel in, thinking its still cold, washes the coke of the top of the pistons, this gets stuck in the valves, loses compression...and so on..finishes up spinning over at great knots throwing more and more fuel in.
Compression of 120 poor, 150 +, good.
Hope that helps.
No 120-150 is for the supercharged model! (And 120-150+ is fine for that engine) His is the XJ8 so much higher compression pistons.If not left to go through its warm up, it throws another load of fuel in, thinking its still cold, washes the coke of the top of the pistons, this gets stuck in the valves, loses compression...and so on..finishes up spinning over at great knots throwing more and more fuel in.
Compression of 120 poor, 150 +, good.
Hope that helps.
From someone else, "180/220 psi dry and 220/350 psi wet"- Sounds a little high when wet to me (350) but you get the idea...If he's getting 120-150 on the N/A his cylinder linings are probably goosed.
I was told flooding was more of an x300 issue but that's fair enough I know it's very rich when cold so I could believe it.
Let us know how you get on mate!
Edited by G on Tuesday 11th November 19:38
Edited by G on Tuesday 11th November 19:39
I cant tell you how many times 308's do this. I was at Jag from 1998 to 2006. When 308's were new, we they were being recovered in and we didnt even let them unload the car, just went over and started then, revved for a bit to clear out and sent straight back to the customer with a bit of advise of how not to do it again. The clasic customer phone call was, I got the car out the garage yesterday to wash it, then put it back, it was fine, then the next day it wouldn't start.
IF ITS ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over whats already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world)If you have no assistant make sure you wind the throtle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, dont let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throtle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be posible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you not got one blowing on they should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too litle and it wont work, to much and you will smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over of 2 oe 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then do for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law.
let we know how it goes.
IF ITS ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over whats already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world)If you have no assistant make sure you wind the throtle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, dont let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throtle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be posible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you not got one blowing on they should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too litle and it wont work, to much and you will smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over of 2 oe 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then do for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law.
let we know how it goes.
Tame Technician said:
I cant tell you how many times 308's do this. I was at Jag from 1998 to 2006. When 308's were new, we they were being recovered in and we didnt even let them unload the car, just went over and started then, revved for a bit to clear out and sent straight back to the customer with a bit of advise of how not to do it again. The clasic customer phone call was, I got the car out the garage yesterday to wash it, then put it back, it was fine, then the next day it wouldn't start.
IF ITS ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over whats already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world)If you have no assistant make sure you wind the throtle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, dont let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throtle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be posible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you not got one blowing on they should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too litle and it wont work, to much and you will smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over of 2 oe 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then do for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law.
let we know how it goes.
Went through this today, tryed to start after putting oil down bores and heating plugs on gas cooker!!! it was sssssooooooooo close to starting, it must've been firing on 3 or 4 but just wouldnt go before the battery was dieing. Going to try this again tommorrow and mabe put more oil down incase i've not put enough?? IF ITS ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over whats already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world)If you have no assistant make sure you wind the throtle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, dont let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throtle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be posible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you not got one blowing on they should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too litle and it wont work, to much and you will smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over of 2 oe 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then do for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law.
let we know how it goes.
Adam
adamsky said:
Tame Technician said:
I cant tell you how many times 308's do this. I was at Jag from 1998 to 2006. When 308's were new, we they were being recovered in and we didnt even let them unload the car, just went over and started then, revved for a bit to clear out and sent straight back to the customer with a bit of advise of how not to do it again. The clasic customer phone call was, I got the car out the garage yesterday to wash it, then put it back, it was fine, then the next day it wouldn't start.
IF ITS ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over whats already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world)If you have no assistant make sure you wind the throtle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, dont let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throtle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be posible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you not got one blowing on they should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too litle and it wont work, to much and you will smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over of 2 oe 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then do for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law.
let we know how it goes.
Went through this today, tryed to start after putting oil down bores and heating plugs on gas cooker!!! it was sssssooooooooo close to starting, it must've been firing on 3 or 4 but just wouldnt go before the battery was dieing. Going to try this again tommorrow and mabe put more oil down incase i've not put enough?? IF ITS ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over whats already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world)If you have no assistant make sure you wind the throtle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, dont let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throtle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be posible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you not got one blowing on they should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too litle and it wont work, to much and you will smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over of 2 oe 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then do for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law.
let we know how it goes.
Adam
adamsky said:
thanks to all yous guys the cars running again!!!! cant thank you enough. Ill never do that again, EVER!!
all i need now is the pipe that goes on the throttle body after it blew it off the other day when it backfired! had to change my boxer shorts to!
Thanks again Adam
Can't help with the clean pants but there's often intake trunking an ebay and several breakers tooall i need now is the pipe that goes on the throttle body after it blew it off the other day when it backfired! had to change my boxer shorts to!
Thanks again Adam
If it wasnt for all use guys i wouldnt have known about this, and when you dont know whats wrong you muck about with other things that could make it worse!
The cars still only running on say 6 cylinders but its running, going to take the plugs out again, clean them and check the gaps. hopefully the wet plugs will tell me the ones thats not firing yet? dont know if ive put enough oil down bores? just so glad its going again.
Again thanks for taking the time out to help, wish i could buy use all a pint
Adam
The cars still only running on say 6 cylinders but its running, going to take the plugs out again, clean them and check the gaps. hopefully the wet plugs will tell me the ones thats not firing yet? dont know if ive put enough oil down bores? just so glad its going again.
Again thanks for taking the time out to help, wish i could buy use all a pint
Adam
Hi guys,
I have a similar problem and can't get it sorted.
The problem is that my car is supposed to take me on ski-holiday tomorrownight. . .
WHAT HAPPENED BEFORE:
yesterday I touched a kerbstone while parking (at only 2mph)with the inner side of the righthand side backwheel.
The car would not start afterwards and gave the error code:PECUS T and also indicated a problem with tractioncontrol etc.
I tried disconnecting the battery to get rid of the errorcode but nothing helped. Got the car on a truck to my home. . .
This morning I disconnected the battery again for about 20 minutes and the car started without problem. I made a short trip and then tried to start her up again, with no succes!
The startermotor cranks but car doesn't start. What can I do, what could be the problem.
WHAT IT IS PROBABLY NOT:
- inertia switch seems ok
- I can move the gearlever from P to D and anything in between.
- back-up and stoplamps work correctly
What does this PECUS T error code mean?? I've read somewhere it has omething to do with the transmission;
-->Could it be the inhibitor-switch of the transmission? (although I can move the gearlever)
-->Or start relay?
All help greatly appreciated and I hope I can go skiing tomorrownight. . .
Best wishes!
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