Fuses, Heater & Front Fogs (XJR, 2001)
Discussion
Hi fellas,
I wonder if you can help me out here. I have, for a few weeks, had a problem with the heater in my XJR-100 (2001). This hasn't been a problem as the weather has been kind.
However, I have also recently noticed that my front fog lamps aren't working. Having checked the obvious, i.e. that the bulbs are OK, I thought it may be a fuse.
Now it seems that Jaguar in thier wisdom deemed a fuse box layout diagram or any fuse box reference material un-necessary and so my hand book was not helpful in the slightest. So without any guides available, I went through the fuses in turn to see if anything was blown. And something was, namely Fuse #3 in the engine compartment (passenger side) fuse box. I replaced this (10A) fuse and tried the fogs again, but no change. I looked at the fuse again and it had blown again.
I'm wondering if the front fogs and heater pump share this as a fuse and if the pump has stalled and is shorting, that its causing the fuse to blow, but this is pure speculation.
Does anyone have a fuse layout for a 2001 XJR-100 ? Or alternatively, can anyone help me identify what fuse #3 is for, and similarly which fuse is used for the front fogs and heater.
Your help is as always much appreciated.
Thanks.
I wonder if you can help me out here. I have, for a few weeks, had a problem with the heater in my XJR-100 (2001). This hasn't been a problem as the weather has been kind.
However, I have also recently noticed that my front fog lamps aren't working. Having checked the obvious, i.e. that the bulbs are OK, I thought it may be a fuse.
Now it seems that Jaguar in thier wisdom deemed a fuse box layout diagram or any fuse box reference material un-necessary and so my hand book was not helpful in the slightest. So without any guides available, I went through the fuses in turn to see if anything was blown. And something was, namely Fuse #3 in the engine compartment (passenger side) fuse box. I replaced this (10A) fuse and tried the fogs again, but no change. I looked at the fuse again and it had blown again.
I'm wondering if the front fogs and heater pump share this as a fuse and if the pump has stalled and is shorting, that its causing the fuse to blow, but this is pure speculation.
Does anyone have a fuse layout for a 2001 XJR-100 ? Or alternatively, can anyone help me identify what fuse #3 is for, and similarly which fuse is used for the front fogs and heater.
Your help is as always much appreciated.
Thanks.
I have ALL Jaguar wiring diagram 1998 to 2006 ish in my dads garage, I'll have a look as soon as I can. But from memory we had the alarm sirens shorting out blowing fuses that wiped out the fog lights.
Does you alarm siren work??
If you can get to it, and its designed so it takes the thief 10 mins or so to disable it, unplug the siren then put a new fuse in see if it blows then.
Equally if you think its the heater valve/pump, unplug them and then try new fuse.
Does you alarm siren work??
If you can get to it, and its designed so it takes the thief 10 mins or so to disable it, unplug the siren then put a new fuse in see if it blows then.
Equally if you think its the heater valve/pump, unplug them and then try new fuse.
Found the diagram on an old JTIS disk
Fuse 3, in the engine bay fuse box, feeds...............
I'm so good I really scare myself sometimes.
I rember had an 2000ish XJ8 fail its first MOT on rear fog tell tail inop, even though the fogs worked. Took me ages to find the sounder was the fault remembered it ever since and done loads.
You could replace it, but personally I'd just disconnect it and put a new fuse in, it hasn't been working since you've had this problem. And the horns go off if there's an alarm activation.
The purpose of the siren is to keep going if the thief cuts the battery cables which would kill the horns, and it also does the error remote function and error bleeps.
Fuse 3, in the engine bay fuse box, feeds...............
- Front fog relay
- Fog light tell tail led in switch (rear tell tail only)
- Heater pump relay (runs the heater pump and the valve)
- And the active security sounder.
I'm so good I really scare myself sometimes.
I rember had an 2000ish XJ8 fail its first MOT on rear fog tell tail inop, even though the fogs worked. Took me ages to find the sounder was the fault remembered it ever since and done loads.
You could replace it, but personally I'd just disconnect it and put a new fuse in, it hasn't been working since you've had this problem. And the horns go off if there's an alarm activation.
The purpose of the siren is to keep going if the thief cuts the battery cables which would kill the horns, and it also does the error remote function and error bleeps.
Edited by Tame Technician on Sunday 6th September 22:35
Tame Technician - You're a star.
I'll have a nosey into where the siren is an get it disconnected and see what happens - though, I'll probably replace it ASAP if its the cause.
Is the siren the sounder of the beeps when I lock/unlock the car ? as this is working. So it may be the pump.
Just out of interest, where did you find the fuse numbers on the Jag disk - I have a copy, but couldn't find what I was looking for. Probably me just being a bloke and not looking properly.
Many Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.
I'll have a nosey into where the siren is an get it disconnected and see what happens - though, I'll probably replace it ASAP if its the cause.
Is the siren the sounder of the beeps when I lock/unlock the car ? as this is working. So it may be the pump.
Just out of interest, where did you find the fuse numbers on the Jag disk - I have a copy, but couldn't find what I was looking for. Probably me just being a bloke and not looking properly.
Many Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.
Edited by Bacon_VII on Monday 7th September 10:35
Yes the siren does the beeps, odd that its working, doesn’t mean its not the cause though.
The pump its self is fused separately, its the pump relay that goes to fuse No.3.
Same with the front fogs, each has its own 15Amp fuse else where, its the ignition switchable feed to the Fog lamp relay thats powered from fuse 3.
So if its not the sounder its most likely one of the relays that I mentioned that is shorting not the actual components.
JTIS no longer runs on my PC but I can search the disc for the PDF wiring guides.
Jaguar wiring diagram are great and have the most information on. So much better that the useless Audi ones I deal with now, that have no information on them. But if you cant read the jag ones properly, and most people cant, there not so much help.
If you want to have a go Yours is X3032001.00en.pdf put the disc in and search for it and open the PDF.
Once open on Fig 1.4 your can see the Engine compartment fuse box, the fuse number 3 goes off to different feeds, all with a WR colour wire. Each feed is given a number and a symbol and then a diagram Fig number. You then go to that page look for said number and symbol. In the case of fuse 3 there all circles with 11, which means power when ignition switch is in position 2.
Feeds numbers
(39) - Fig 9.3
(40) – Fig 9.3
(41) – Fig 13.3
(42) – Fig 9.3
(43) – Fig 9.3
and if you look closely (49) – Figs 7.2 + 9.1. all come from fuse 3.
So when we got to Fig 7.2 and look for feed (49) we find it powers the pull in part of the Heater pump relay.
When we got to Fig 9.1 and look for (49) we find its the same function but for the fog lamp relay.
You might notice page 13.3 is missing from all the diagrams, its why it took me so long to diagnose the first one I had, shows feeds and connections to the security sounder, jaguar decided to delete the page as it would show people how to disable most of the alarm system, I had it faxed from Dealer technical support and was told to shred it when I was done.
Which of course I did.............Kinda.
I put some pics up if that seemed ridiculously complicated to follow.
The pump its self is fused separately, its the pump relay that goes to fuse No.3.
Same with the front fogs, each has its own 15Amp fuse else where, its the ignition switchable feed to the Fog lamp relay thats powered from fuse 3.
So if its not the sounder its most likely one of the relays that I mentioned that is shorting not the actual components.
JTIS no longer runs on my PC but I can search the disc for the PDF wiring guides.
Jaguar wiring diagram are great and have the most information on. So much better that the useless Audi ones I deal with now, that have no information on them. But if you cant read the jag ones properly, and most people cant, there not so much help.
If you want to have a go Yours is X3032001.00en.pdf put the disc in and search for it and open the PDF.
Once open on Fig 1.4 your can see the Engine compartment fuse box, the fuse number 3 goes off to different feeds, all with a WR colour wire. Each feed is given a number and a symbol and then a diagram Fig number. You then go to that page look for said number and symbol. In the case of fuse 3 there all circles with 11, which means power when ignition switch is in position 2.
Feeds numbers
(39) - Fig 9.3
(40) – Fig 9.3
(41) – Fig 13.3
(42) – Fig 9.3
(43) – Fig 9.3
and if you look closely (49) – Figs 7.2 + 9.1. all come from fuse 3.
So when we got to Fig 7.2 and look for feed (49) we find it powers the pull in part of the Heater pump relay.
When we got to Fig 9.1 and look for (49) we find its the same function but for the fog lamp relay.
You might notice page 13.3 is missing from all the diagrams, its why it took me so long to diagnose the first one I had, shows feeds and connections to the security sounder, jaguar decided to delete the page as it would show people how to disable most of the alarm system, I had it faxed from Dealer technical support and was told to shred it when I was done.
Which of course I did.............Kinda.
I put some pics up if that seemed ridiculously complicated to follow.
The siren is located (from memory) near the passenger side of the radiator.
I managed to get at it (the connector) by just sliding myself under the car whilst plipping the key fob and listening for where the noice came from. If you look (from under the car) towards the bottom of the passenger side of the rad you'll see it. It has only one connector, which with fat fingers like me you can disconnect and the fuse stops blowing and fogs/heater start to work.
I plan in either replacing or fixing the siren, but this looks like a wheelarch lining out job to get at it properly, and frankly and can't be bothered in this weather.
Similar thread here;
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/xforums/topic.asp?h=0... No hot air from heater
I managed to get at it (the connector) by just sliding myself under the car whilst plipping the key fob and listening for where the noice came from. If you look (from under the car) towards the bottom of the passenger side of the rad you'll see it. It has only one connector, which with fat fingers like me you can disconnect and the fuse stops blowing and fogs/heater start to work.
I plan in either replacing or fixing the siren, but this looks like a wheelarch lining out job to get at it properly, and frankly and can't be bothered in this weather.
Similar thread here;
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/xforums/topic.asp?h=0... No hot air from heater
Great thread guys, saved me a lot of time and head scratching. My '97 XK8 is booked in MOT on Saturday and just noticed the rear fog indicator wasn't working, also indicators on front fog switch and traction control switch, also front fogs not working. Fuse #3 in main engine bay fuse box was blown. Replaced fuse and blew again, removed connector from siren and all good. For info, siren was on right side of car accessed by removing the front under tray.
Hi Tame, this info is still very current and I'm hopeful it's the cause of my no heat/no fog lamps from/no rear fog lamp warning light (although lights work) and no headlamp levelling.
I've just popped out to have a look for the connector but it's late and I think the car will have to be jacked or the nearside run up on the kerb to give me better access underneath.
Is the CD you mentioned still available? JTIS
Regards,
Peter.
I've just popped out to have a look for the connector but it's late and I think the car will have to be jacked or the nearside run up on the kerb to give me better access underneath.
Is the CD you mentioned still available? JTIS
Regards,
Peter.
Further to the above problem and in particular the fact that the sounder bleeps then I would like to offer the following observations.
I had all the above symptoms and disconnected the sounder and Fuse 3 stopped blowing. Heat, front fogs and tell tale lights and headlamp leveller working.
I obtained a sounder from a scrapped X308 and plugged it in today. The unit bleeped when the car was locked and unlocked. Replaced the road wheel and was going for a drive. Checked fog lamps - not working. No heat or levellers. So up on the jacks again, disconnected and all is well.
I suspect that it is the NiCds in the sounder that have shorted and blowing the fuse when the ignition is switched on.
Project for the weekend. Disconnect NiCds, try plugging it in and if all successful I'll replace the NiCads and see what happens.
I had all the above symptoms and disconnected the sounder and Fuse 3 stopped blowing. Heat, front fogs and tell tale lights and headlamp leveller working.
I obtained a sounder from a scrapped X308 and plugged it in today. The unit bleeped when the car was locked and unlocked. Replaced the road wheel and was going for a drive. Checked fog lamps - not working. No heat or levellers. So up on the jacks again, disconnected and all is well.
I suspect that it is the NiCds in the sounder that have shorted and blowing the fuse when the ignition is switched on.
Project for the weekend. Disconnect NiCds, try plugging it in and if all successful I'll replace the NiCads and see what happens.
Well, spent 20 minutes trying to dig out the NiCds from the rubber compound that encapsulates them and the electronics board.
I also damaged some of the electrical components on the board at my attempt to dig out the compound.
I've resigned myself to doing without the chirps and bleeps when locking and unlocking the car. I don't think the effort is worth
it and apparently the cost new is prohibitive. I may well ask just to have a laugh.
I also damaged some of the electrical components on the board at my attempt to dig out the compound.
I've resigned myself to doing without the chirps and bleeps when locking and unlocking the car. I don't think the effort is worth
it and apparently the cost new is prohibitive. I may well ask just to have a laugh.
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