2.0L audi no oil pressure
Discussion
Hi Guys
Just got this car in,2005 audi a4 2.0tdi ,Customer was driving down motorway when red warning light oil pressure low came on,he stopped,checked it for oil and put in half a liter and drove it a further 20 miles with the oil light on as,also the brake pedal went solid so he lost the servo
first inspection-when started no big rattles or noise so changed oil and filter and fitted oil pressure gauge and started,no oil pressure,
Removed the sump and the chain tensioner,chain sprockets all look ok
anyone any ideas on what could be the problem,would the oil pump itself be gone weak???or something else???
Just got this car in,2005 audi a4 2.0tdi ,Customer was driving down motorway when red warning light oil pressure low came on,he stopped,checked it for oil and put in half a liter and drove it a further 20 miles with the oil light on as,also the brake pedal went solid so he lost the servo
first inspection-when started no big rattles or noise so changed oil and filter and fitted oil pressure gauge and started,no oil pressure,
Removed the sump and the chain tensioner,chain sprockets all look ok
anyone any ideas on what could be the problem,would the oil pump itself be gone weak???or something else???
Edited by jamesdb on Friday 6th January 15:01
Could be the hex drive in the balancer shaft assy. It can spin, so although the chain is on, the oil pump isnt driven. You need to take the hex shaft out of the pump (small circlip) and see if the edges are worn off.
Need new balancer shaft assy + modifed gears + modified sump required if this is the case etc.
Parts bill £1200+
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/oil-pump-fai...
Need new balancer shaft assy + modifed gears + modified sump required if this is the case etc.
Parts bill £1200+
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/oil-pump-fai...
The shaft is arrowed in this pic.
I cant remember if you can get it out without taking the belt off. I think the front crank seal housing piece (removed in the pic) might get in the way of sliding out the shaft, there is just a very small circlip holding it in.
If the front crank seal housing is covering the end of the shaft you will need to remove the belt and both parts of the bottom pulley, then yuo can take the crank seal housing off.
You need three special tools to time it up, two lolly poops that lock the cams and one crank holding tool.
This is for the single cam version, but its the same setup, just need two lolly pops one for each cam pully.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/2005-vw-pass...
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/2005-vw-pass...
Yep thats the problem
Modified Counter Balance shaft assy
Modified Crankshaft lower gear
Modified sump
Note, if your doing the work, its very very difficult to get the old crank gear off, and to get the new one on it needs to be heated to 240 degrees C.
google will bring up loads of guides.
Also see piston heads thread "TDI oil pump woes".
Modified Counter Balance shaft assy
Modified Crankshaft lower gear
Modified sump
Note, if your doing the work, its very very difficult to get the old crank gear off, and to get the new one on it needs to be heated to 240 degrees C.
google will bring up loads of guides.
Also see piston heads thread "TDI oil pump woes".
Found a guide for US passate engine, very similar.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3419/BHW_Balance_Shaf...
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3419/BHW_Balance_Shaf...
Yep thats whay they look like, I call it the biro shaft, cos it looks like a bic biro.
If you replace the biro shaft it will work for a bit, but how long I couldnt tell you. At some point it will spin again, because the edges will be worn off inside of the balancer shaft where it drives the biro shaft. (thats why I wouldnt be alloud to do that repair)
However if your customer is willing to try it, and you explain the potential issue (repeat failure) agaist the cost difference. I think that shaft is less than £5. Balancer shaft mod is well over a £1000 (parts alone) and alot more labour intensive.
If they are happy to try it, then go for it.
If you replace the biro shaft it will work for a bit, but how long I couldnt tell you. At some point it will spin again, because the edges will be worn off inside of the balancer shaft where it drives the biro shaft. (thats why I wouldnt be alloud to do that repair)
However if your customer is willing to try it, and you explain the potential issue (repeat failure) agaist the cost difference. I think that shaft is less than £5. Balancer shaft mod is well over a £1000 (parts alone) and alot more labour intensive.
If they are happy to try it, then go for it.
hi guys
i was wondering if you might be able to help me out.
Car is a 2005 A4 2.0 TDI which has done 110 k and has been maintained by audi since new (other than one service by a approved audi specialist). It was serviced aprox 2k ago by audi who noted that the alternator pulley was speaking (which has since stopped) and that there were faults logged with glowplugs 2, 3 and 4 (although i’ve never had any issues with car starting when cold). Neither repair was done.
I have had a rattle from the front end of my 2005 2.0 tdi for quite some time and its gradually got worse. originally my mechanic replaced one of the pulleys on the front of the car which did not fix it. we then established that it was the a/c pump which was rattling when the ac unit was not on. i did not fix this for aprox a year during which time the engine rattle got much worse. i have since had it replaced and noticed that the rattle has not stopped.
the other day whilst my wife was driving the car the low oil pressure light came on. she carried on driving the car (stupidly) and the light reset when the car was switched off. i started it up the other day and all seemed fine (other than the rattle) and I gave some gas and the oil pressure light came on again. switched it off immediately. started it up about 4 days later and no warning light. left it running for a few minutes but did not drive it or give it gas and still no oil pressure light.
The rattle is not like the broken chain rattle (vids on you tubes or forums etc) but makes the engine sounds more like a white van so its just a lot more noisy.
do i have the symptoms of the balance shaft issues and could the rattle be the issues with the chain?
i was wondering if you might be able to help me out.
Car is a 2005 A4 2.0 TDI which has done 110 k and has been maintained by audi since new (other than one service by a approved audi specialist). It was serviced aprox 2k ago by audi who noted that the alternator pulley was speaking (which has since stopped) and that there were faults logged with glowplugs 2, 3 and 4 (although i’ve never had any issues with car starting when cold). Neither repair was done.
I have had a rattle from the front end of my 2005 2.0 tdi for quite some time and its gradually got worse. originally my mechanic replaced one of the pulleys on the front of the car which did not fix it. we then established that it was the a/c pump which was rattling when the ac unit was not on. i did not fix this for aprox a year during which time the engine rattle got much worse. i have since had it replaced and noticed that the rattle has not stopped.
the other day whilst my wife was driving the car the low oil pressure light came on. she carried on driving the car (stupidly) and the light reset when the car was switched off. i started it up the other day and all seemed fine (other than the rattle) and I gave some gas and the oil pressure light came on again. switched it off immediately. started it up about 4 days later and no warning light. left it running for a few minutes but did not drive it or give it gas and still no oil pressure light.
The rattle is not like the broken chain rattle (vids on you tubes or forums etc) but makes the engine sounds more like a white van so its just a lot more noisy.
do i have the symptoms of the balance shaft issues and could the rattle be the issues with the chain?
beanmasteruk said:
James, did this solve the stiff brake pedal issue too? How was that connected to the oil pump issue? I have the exact same problem. Did you drop the sump and change it all yourself? does the timing belt have to come off too?
The tandem pump will have failed due to no oil pressure, so no vacuum assistance. Hi everyone,
I am a new member to the forum, but I wanted to add my contribution to the 'known issues' with the Audi A4 TDI 2.0 oil pump. In short, I have a 2006 Audi A4 2.0 TDI which developed a low pressure oil light whilst driving last week. The engine was fine and the turbo didn't blow so I count myself lucky...I guess :-)
The mechanic indicated that he had seem many oil pump failures and it wasn't uncommon on both the 140 /170 Bhp models of a certain age. I approached Audi, and like many, was dismissed as I didn't have a full Audi service history.
A new pump and balance shaft later I now have the car running better than it was before. It cost me £1500 inc vat, but this included a new CAM belt. It was a real shock to find out on may forums that this was a very common problem, yet Audi will not even recognise that there is an issue!!!!
So, in short this has been a real learning curve for me and I would certainly think long and hard about my next car purchase.
I am a new member to the forum, but I wanted to add my contribution to the 'known issues' with the Audi A4 TDI 2.0 oil pump. In short, I have a 2006 Audi A4 2.0 TDI which developed a low pressure oil light whilst driving last week. The engine was fine and the turbo didn't blow so I count myself lucky...I guess :-)
The mechanic indicated that he had seem many oil pump failures and it wasn't uncommon on both the 140 /170 Bhp models of a certain age. I approached Audi, and like many, was dismissed as I didn't have a full Audi service history.
A new pump and balance shaft later I now have the car running better than it was before. It cost me £1500 inc vat, but this included a new CAM belt. It was a real shock to find out on may forums that this was a very common problem, yet Audi will not even recognise that there is an issue!!!!
So, in short this has been a real learning curve for me and I would certainly think long and hard about my next car purchase.
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