VW Golf GTi MK1 Restoration
Discussion
Looking forward to this!
I've owned a Mk2 Scirocco for 14 years and I've just done a top to bottom refurb of the steering, brakes and suspension with the aim of making it drive like a brand new one. Why am I telling you this? Because EVERY mechanical component on a Mk2 Scirocco is identical with a Mk1 Golf.
I've used:
Bilstein B4 Dampers (OEM stiffness)
Eibach Springs & Anti Roll Bars
Superflex Bushes (OEM stiffness)
Lemforder (OEM) track rod ends, ball joints and steering arms
GKN (OEM) CV joints and boots
SKF (OEM) wheel bearings and top mounts.
Steering rack was returned by a local company.
When it was all reassembled, I had the camber and tracking set up on a Hunter type rig. 0.18 toe and 1.25 degrees of camber on the front. The end result is phenomenal. High speed stability is excellent. Handling and grip are a revelation. It's just so progressive. BUT most importantly to me, the ride quality is superb. No crashing or banging or bumping
and thumping over pot holes/speed bumps etc. It's just brilliant and the difference to before is staggering. As someone else said, avoid cheap coil over kits unless you like the bounce down the road with zero control!
Can't recommend the above set up enough. Shout if you want to know where to find the best prices for the above as I did a lot of shopping around to try and keep costs vaguely sensible!
Again, good luck with your project
I've owned a Mk2 Scirocco for 14 years and I've just done a top to bottom refurb of the steering, brakes and suspension with the aim of making it drive like a brand new one. Why am I telling you this? Because EVERY mechanical component on a Mk2 Scirocco is identical with a Mk1 Golf.
I've used:
Bilstein B4 Dampers (OEM stiffness)
Eibach Springs & Anti Roll Bars
Superflex Bushes (OEM stiffness)
Lemforder (OEM) track rod ends, ball joints and steering arms
GKN (OEM) CV joints and boots
SKF (OEM) wheel bearings and top mounts.
Steering rack was returned by a local company.
When it was all reassembled, I had the camber and tracking set up on a Hunter type rig. 0.18 toe and 1.25 degrees of camber on the front. The end result is phenomenal. High speed stability is excellent. Handling and grip are a revelation. It's just so progressive. BUT most importantly to me, the ride quality is superb. No crashing or banging or bumping
and thumping over pot holes/speed bumps etc. It's just brilliant and the difference to before is staggering. As someone else said, avoid cheap coil over kits unless you like the bounce down the road with zero control!
Can't recommend the above set up enough. Shout if you want to know where to find the best prices for the above as I did a lot of shopping around to try and keep costs vaguely sensible!
Again, good luck with your project
MJK 24 said:
Looking forward to this!
I've owned a Mk2 Scirocco for 14 years and I've just done a top to bottom refurb of the steering, brakes and suspension with the aim of making it drive like a brand new one. Why am I telling you this? Because EVERY mechanical component on a Mk2 Scirocco is identical with a Mk1 Golf.
I've used:
Bilstein B4 Dampers (OEM stiffness)
Eibach Springs & Anti Roll Bars
Superflex Bushes (OEM stiffness)
Lemforder (OEM) track rod ends, ball joints and steering arms
GKN (OEM) CV joints and boots
SKF (OEM) wheel bearings and top mounts.
Steering rack was returned by a local company.
When it was all reassembled, I had the camber and tracking set up on a Hunter type rig. 0.18 toe and 1.25 degrees of camber on the front. The end result is phenomenal. High speed stability is excellent. Handling and grip are a revelation. It's just so progressive. BUT most importantly to me, the ride quality is superb. No crashing or banging or bumping
and thumping over pot holes/speed bumps etc. It's just brilliant and the difference to before is staggering. As someone else said, avoid cheap coil over kits unless you like the bounce down the road with zero control!
Can't recommend the above set up enough. Shout if you want to know where to find the best prices for the above as I did a lot of shopping around to try and keep costs vaguely sensible!
Again, good luck with your project
HiI've owned a Mk2 Scirocco for 14 years and I've just done a top to bottom refurb of the steering, brakes and suspension with the aim of making it drive like a brand new one. Why am I telling you this? Because EVERY mechanical component on a Mk2 Scirocco is identical with a Mk1 Golf.
I've used:
Bilstein B4 Dampers (OEM stiffness)
Eibach Springs & Anti Roll Bars
Superflex Bushes (OEM stiffness)
Lemforder (OEM) track rod ends, ball joints and steering arms
GKN (OEM) CV joints and boots
SKF (OEM) wheel bearings and top mounts.
Steering rack was returned by a local company.
When it was all reassembled, I had the camber and tracking set up on a Hunter type rig. 0.18 toe and 1.25 degrees of camber on the front. The end result is phenomenal. High speed stability is excellent. Handling and grip are a revelation. It's just so progressive. BUT most importantly to me, the ride quality is superb. No crashing or banging or bumping
and thumping over pot holes/speed bumps etc. It's just brilliant and the difference to before is staggering. As someone else said, avoid cheap coil over kits unless you like the bounce down the road with zero control!
Can't recommend the above set up enough. Shout if you want to know where to find the best prices for the above as I did a lot of shopping around to try and keep costs vaguely sensible!
Again, good luck with your project
Thanks again to all who have taken the time to contribute thus far.
MJK: That would be great if you could supply me with the details of the above parts; where you got them from and what you paid etc. PM me if you like.
I have a company coming out on Saturday to remove the windscreen, rear screen and rear windows. The same company will then refit the glass when required.
The job for the next week or so is going to be removing the horrible stone chip from the 4 arches and the floor. I do not know why someone has painted it on...
From manufacture there would have been the standard underseal and it would appear someone has gone over the top of this. It scrapes of with a finger nail so will try some petrol on it to soften it. It is like black tar.
From experience it is long horrible job.
Once it is all removed any damage can be addressed before I paint the floor and the arches white again.
I will post up pictures of my progression.
Awesome project, looking forward to updates.
There a company that advertises in a few of the VW mags that does those spit type things for being able to roll the shell so it's easier to get to the underside, think they're about £500, seemed like good value. Don't know if it's of any use just thought I'd mention it.
There a company that advertises in a few of the VW mags that does those spit type things for being able to roll the shell so it's easier to get to the underside, think they're about £500, seemed like good value. Don't know if it's of any use just thought I'd mention it.
Hi
Have been doing a few hours on the Golf. As I am sure most will know it will go through the process of looking far worse than it was before it gets better!
I had a company out on the weekend to remove the windscreen, rear screen and rear windows. They will return when need to reinstall.
I removed both front wings to start the horrible, horrible task of stripping all of the underseal from all arches and the floor.
I began with the passenger side which took about a day with a blow torch, wire brushes and scrapers. To be honest there is zero rot under the original underseal so I was very pleased. If from now I can just remove the black waxoyl to reveal the dry original underseal and it looks in good condition I will not remove it.
This being said just removing the top black waxoyl is not easy. You will see I have started the drivers side this morning. A heat gun and a wire brush will do it but again I would guess that a day per arch to do it properly.
I have borrowed a shell roller (spit roast principle) from the bodyshop so in a couple of weeks I will roll the shell which will make doing the floor a million times easier.
Passenger wing removed; the black is the waxoyl, it looks dry in the picture but a lot of it is still sticky to touch:
During the horrible job:
During.....:
Passenger side completed; the white paint is simply to stop it rusting for now. When all completed, the white will be removed and the bare metal acid etch primed before applying a suitable rubberised top coat:
Shell as it stands:
Just started drivers side:
Have been doing a few hours on the Golf. As I am sure most will know it will go through the process of looking far worse than it was before it gets better!
I had a company out on the weekend to remove the windscreen, rear screen and rear windows. They will return when need to reinstall.
I removed both front wings to start the horrible, horrible task of stripping all of the underseal from all arches and the floor.
I began with the passenger side which took about a day with a blow torch, wire brushes and scrapers. To be honest there is zero rot under the original underseal so I was very pleased. If from now I can just remove the black waxoyl to reveal the dry original underseal and it looks in good condition I will not remove it.
This being said just removing the top black waxoyl is not easy. You will see I have started the drivers side this morning. A heat gun and a wire brush will do it but again I would guess that a day per arch to do it properly.
I have borrowed a shell roller (spit roast principle) from the bodyshop so in a couple of weeks I will roll the shell which will make doing the floor a million times easier.
Passenger wing removed; the black is the waxoyl, it looks dry in the picture but a lot of it is still sticky to touch:
During the horrible job:
During.....:
Passenger side completed; the white paint is simply to stop it rusting for now. When all completed, the white will be removed and the bare metal acid etch primed before applying a suitable rubberised top coat:
Shell as it stands:
Just started drivers side:
TROOPER88 said:
Hi
Have been doing a few hours on the Golf. As I am sure most will know it will go through the process of looking far worse than it was before it gets better!
I had a company out on the weekend to remove the windscreen, rear screen and rear windows. They will return when need to reinstall.
I removed both front wings to start the horrible, horrible task of stripping all of the underseal from all arches and the floor.
I began with the passenger side which took about a day with a blow torch, wire brushes and scrapers. To be honest there is zero rot under the original underseal so I was very pleased. If from now I can just remove the black waxoyl to reveal the dry original underseal and it looks in good condition I will not remove it.
This being said just removing the top black waxoyl is not easy. You will see I have started the drivers side this morning. A heat gun and a wire brush will do it but again I would guess that a day per arch to do it properly.
I have borrowed a shell roller (spit roast principle) from the bodyshop so in a couple of weeks I will roll the shell which will make doing the floor a million times easier.
Passenger wing removed; the black is the waxoyl, it looks dry in the picture but a lot of it is still sticky to touch:
During the horrible job:
During.....:
Passenger side completed; the white paint is simply to stop it rusting for now. When all completed, the white will be removed and the bare metal acid etch primed before applying a suitable rubberised top coat:
Shell as it stands:
Just started drivers side:
I think I must have left my patience in your garage, as you must have enough for at least 2 people!!Have been doing a few hours on the Golf. As I am sure most will know it will go through the process of looking far worse than it was before it gets better!
I had a company out on the weekend to remove the windscreen, rear screen and rear windows. They will return when need to reinstall.
I removed both front wings to start the horrible, horrible task of stripping all of the underseal from all arches and the floor.
I began with the passenger side which took about a day with a blow torch, wire brushes and scrapers. To be honest there is zero rot under the original underseal so I was very pleased. If from now I can just remove the black waxoyl to reveal the dry original underseal and it looks in good condition I will not remove it.
This being said just removing the top black waxoyl is not easy. You will see I have started the drivers side this morning. A heat gun and a wire brush will do it but again I would guess that a day per arch to do it properly.
I have borrowed a shell roller (spit roast principle) from the bodyshop so in a couple of weeks I will roll the shell which will make doing the floor a million times easier.
Passenger wing removed; the black is the waxoyl, it looks dry in the picture but a lot of it is still sticky to touch:
During the horrible job:
During.....:
Passenger side completed; the white paint is simply to stop it rusting for now. When all completed, the white will be removed and the bare metal acid etch primed before applying a suitable rubberised top coat:
Shell as it stands:
Just started drivers side:
Looks pretty damn good!
Hi all
It has been a few weeks....
I have not been spending much time on the Golf due to time restraints but a fair bit has happened since I last updated.
Since my last post I have (see pictures):
Purchased a donor car! A white MK1 GTi in fairly original condition. The shell is in a poor state but naturally that does not bother me as it will be scrapped.
The bumpers have been removed as I needed the bumper irons to attach my shell to the jig/roller!! I have been removing the horrible black oily stone chip/underseal that someone has applied at some point. Horrible job but much easier with it on the roller.
I have drilled out the original wiper holes (someone fitted a single wiper conversion) and removed the stone chip from all arches.
It may not look it but good progress is being made!!
The donor car:
Ok, thats the donor car! As you can see it looks original enough!
Now the shell that I am using on the roller!!
The floor as it was:
The removal....!
The above removal took a few hours so to complete the floor will take a good week or so. It will then be painted in a suitable whire rubber based paint.
It has been a few weeks....
I have not been spending much time on the Golf due to time restraints but a fair bit has happened since I last updated.
Since my last post I have (see pictures):
Purchased a donor car! A white MK1 GTi in fairly original condition. The shell is in a poor state but naturally that does not bother me as it will be scrapped.
The bumpers have been removed as I needed the bumper irons to attach my shell to the jig/roller!! I have been removing the horrible black oily stone chip/underseal that someone has applied at some point. Horrible job but much easier with it on the roller.
I have drilled out the original wiper holes (someone fitted a single wiper conversion) and removed the stone chip from all arches.
It may not look it but good progress is being made!!
The donor car:
Ok, thats the donor car! As you can see it looks original enough!
Now the shell that I am using on the roller!!
The floor as it was:
The removal....!
The above removal took a few hours so to complete the floor will take a good week or so. It will then be painted in a suitable whire rubber based paint.
Nice job so far - really enjoy the way you go about this.
could we ask how much you paid for the 'donor' and the 'chosenone '?
also having worked with restoring cars for some 25 years professionally - as you've just seen the OE underseal / and Ziebart wax you've just removed did an amazing job for 30 years. You'll be really hard pressed to find a trade counter with such quality products. Hammerite and such which you find in retail motorstores is not up to much. We had great succes with Bilt hamper products and dinitrol- but do apply it in dry and possibly baking hot conditions.
-do keep what seem to be bilstein adjustable dampers - or PM me - i'll gladly have them.
cheers
could we ask how much you paid for the 'donor' and the 'chosenone '?
also having worked with restoring cars for some 25 years professionally - as you've just seen the OE underseal / and Ziebart wax you've just removed did an amazing job for 30 years. You'll be really hard pressed to find a trade counter with such quality products. Hammerite and such which you find in retail motorstores is not up to much. We had great succes with Bilt hamper products and dinitrol- but do apply it in dry and possibly baking hot conditions.
-do keep what seem to be bilstein adjustable dampers - or PM me - i'll gladly have them.
cheers
hotrubber007 said:
Nice job so far - really enjoy the way you go about this.
could we ask how much you paid for the 'donor' and the 'chosenone '?
also having worked with restoring cars for some 25 years professionally - as you've just seen the OE underseal / and Ziebart wax you've just removed did an amazing job for 30 years. You'll be really hard pressed to find a trade counter with such quality products. Hammerite and such which you find in retail motorstores is not up to much. We had great succes with Bilt hamper products and dinitrol- but do apply it in dry and possibly baking hot conditions.
-do keep what seem to be bilstein adjustable dampers - or PM me - i'll gladly have them.
cheers
Hicould we ask how much you paid for the 'donor' and the 'chosenone '?
also having worked with restoring cars for some 25 years professionally - as you've just seen the OE underseal / and Ziebart wax you've just removed did an amazing job for 30 years. You'll be really hard pressed to find a trade counter with such quality products. Hammerite and such which you find in retail motorstores is not up to much. We had great succes with Bilt hamper products and dinitrol- but do apply it in dry and possibly baking hot conditions.
-do keep what seem to be bilstein adjustable dampers - or PM me - i'll gladly have them.
cheers
Many thanks for your input!
You are more than welcome to the dampers. When the project is finished I will put all the bits I do not need together and you can help yourself.
I have started a thread in the bodywork section as I need advice regarding what paint to now use on the floor and arches.
As you will see from the info so far the only area where the original underseal has been removed is the one front arch. The rest I have just removed the bitumen. All of the original underseal is in great condition so will keep it. Naturally I want it to look good, what would be the best paint to put on directly over the floor and the original underseal??
Cheers
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