Login | Register
SearchMy Stuff
My ProfileMy PreferencesMy Mates RSS Feed
Reply to Topic
Author Discussion

Track Rod

Original Poster:

57 posts

27 months

[news] 
Tuesday 2nd October 2012 quote quote all
Hello all, first time as an OP, please be gentle!

I have a '51 Leon Cupra, I bought it six months ago, high-ish miles (140k), but full documented dealer service history, apart from the last service which was done by an independent. It's giving me nothing but trouble. Within a week of ownership, the back box started rattling, usually at idle, had it welded back into place for its MOT, within days it's rattling again. Engine management light comes on for a while, then off for a day or to, then on again; a faulty injector is the alledged culprit according to VAGcom, regular supplements of injector cleaner keep this in check, although it's still spluttery and uneven.
ABS and traction control lights come on every now and then, it's a very rare day where there isn't at least one warning light ablaze.
Prior to purchase I did my homework on the common faults that these cars suffer, something I always do before shopping. Until now, though, I've never had ALL the common faults manifest themselves on a single car (and within the first 6 months of ownership!). Indicator failure? Check! Replaced the relay, Smell of petrol? Check! Taped up the fractured hose, but still not completely cured, leaky doors? Check! Took the door panels off and applied sealant around the ancilliary carrier, seems to have worked. However, one week later and now I have a boot leak, hooray! I haven't had coil pack failure yet, but I'm sure it's just a matter of time...

Which leads me to my request for help. How do I fix the leaky boot? I've searched the usual forums, but can't seem to find what I'm looking for, which is, ideally a guide (pictorial would be ideal) on how to fix it. The boot carpet is dry after a downfall, but things in the boot are getting wet, I'm going to investigate the rear washer pipe and the light clusters. Is it just a case of tightening connections/putting sealant on? Or is it more involved?
(Rant begins now)

It beggars belief that a major manufacturer with decades experience of building cars can't produce a car that doesn't leak in the rain. I've had many other marques before and, barring leaky sunroofs, have never had a car that isn't able to withstand even a moderate downpour without filling up with water, every day it's taking me 5-10 minutes of sitting with the engine idling and fans on just to demist the condensation before I can see enough to actually see where I'm going-ridiculous!
It's now, officially, the most troublesome car I've ever owned, and I've previously owned a Lada Riva! That should give you some idea how *issed off I am right now! Why do VAG group cars have such a good reputation? Beats me...

Anyhoo, rant over, if anyone has any advice regarding the boot leak problem it would be much appreciated, or if anyone would like to come and set fire to it so I can claim on the insurance, please let me know! (I'll provide the matches).

Thanks all, as you were......

I should also add, it never idles properly, and the nearside washer jet is blocked, despite trying everything in my (admittedly limited)know-how to unblock it, any ideas? And I'm replacing blown bulbs at an alarming rate, is that normal?

Edited by Track Rod on Tuesday 2nd October 23:08


Edited by Track Rod on Tuesday 2nd October 23:13

SuperchargedVR6

964 posts

100 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
I don't think it's unreasonable to expect a few issues with a car that's done 140K miles?

What was the exact VAG-COM error relating to the injector? Full and complete information is the key to successful forum diagnostics.

With the boot, simply climb into the back and try and see where the water is coming from whilst an assistant hoses the car. It could also be the rear wash/wipe as you say, so get them to operate that too.

I agree with you. 20 years ago VW/Audi were most definitely a cut above the competetion. Not any more they're not. VAGs are now just a melding pool of samey cars littering the highways. There are distinct ranks within the VAG pool though and I'm afraid Seat, along with Skoda, are in the "built down to a price" category. The difference in quality between an Audi and a Seat is stark from the moment you open the door. I'm afraid Seats have always had a reputation for patchy build quality.

1974nc

386 posts

42 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
Rear washer jet pipe comes/loose/gets blocked meaning water ends up dripping into boot (common fault) Bloke at garage jetted mine out and replaced pipe when it went in for service before I sold the car.

Traveller

1,749 posts

97 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
It may be the boot seal but more likely it is the rear wash wipe, the pipe pops off and the water gets into the boot, it will also start messing with your boot lock if it continues leaking over the mechanism. Take off the rear trim panels, and glue the pipe onto the mechanism. If there is water pooling around the lock latch at the bottom of the boot, then it is most likely the washer pipe.

This can happen if you do not use the correct strength washer fluid in winter, and the pipe freezes up, you try to wash the rear window and off comes the pipe.

It is a common problem with them. it is a Spanish car, the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain, so stay away from the plain smile

shtu

781 posts

26 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
OK, Here's some answers...

Track Rod said:
the back box started rattling, usually at idle, had it welded back into place for its MOT, within days it's rattling again.
Reweld or replace. How old is the exhaust?

Track Rod said:
Faulty injector is the alledged culprit according to VAGcom, regular supplements of injector cleaner keep this in check.
Stop being a cheapskate, buy a set of injectors from a breaker and replace it - you've probably spent more on "cleaner" than it would have cost to replace it.

Track Rod said:
ABS and traction control lights come on every now and then, it's a very rare day where there isn't at least one warning light ablaze.
Probably a wheel sensor, Vagcom will tell you which one(s).

Track Rod said:
Indicator failure? Check! Replaced the relay.
A new indicator relay? On an 11 year old daily driver? Outrageous.

Track Rod said:
Smell of petrol? Check! Taped up the fractured hose, but still not completely cured.
You could try, y'know, replacing it?

Track Rod said:
Leaky doors? Check! Took the door panels off and applied sealant around the ancilliary carrier, seems to have worked.
Usually caused by people removing the panels and not resealing them, like they should. Left alone they almost always stay sealed, and if removed the seal tape should be checked\replaced.

Track Rod said:
I haven't had coil pack failure yet, but I'm sure it's just a matter of time.
Subject to a recall, check you have had it done.

Track Rod said:
How do I fix the leaky boot? I've searched the usual forums, but can't seem to find what I'm looking for, which is, ideally a guide (pictorial would be ideal) on how to fix it. The boot carpet is dry after a downfall, but things in the boot are getting wet, I'm going to investigate the rear washer pipe and the light clusters. Is it just a case of tightening connections/putting sealant on? Or is it more involved?
90% sure it'll be the wiper motor, or the pipework connecting to it that is leaking. Easily and cheaply fixed.

Track Rod said:
Every day it's taking me 5-10 minutes of sitting with the engine idling and fans on just to demist the condensation before I can see enough to actually see where I'm going-ridiculous!
You have a leak into the interior. Check the sunroof drains on the a-pillars in the door shuts, and the cover over the pollen filter - this is often replaced poorly which leads to leaks.

Track Rod said:
I should also add, it never idles properly.
Clean out the throttle body.

Track Rod said:
The nearside washer jet is blocked. Any ideas?
Clean out. Fuse wire, airline.

Track Rod said:
Replacing blown bulbs at an alarming rate, is that normal?
Replace bulbs with good-quality ones, and try replacing in pairs, eg, both brake bulbs, not one.

The vast majority of this is due to a) the age of the car, and b) previous neglect\bodgery.
Advertisement

Nick1point9

3,620 posts

60 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
shtu said:
OK, Here's some answers...

Track Rod said:
the back box started rattling, usually at idle, had it welded back into place for its MOT, within days it's rattling again.
Reweld or replace. How old is the exhaust?

Track Rod said:
Faulty injector is the alledged culprit according to VAGcom, regular supplements of injector cleaner keep this in check.
Stop being a cheapskate, buy a set of injectors from a breaker and replace it - you've probably spent more on "cleaner" than it would have cost to replace it.

Track Rod said:
ABS and traction control lights come on every now and then, it's a very rare day where there isn't at least one warning light ablaze.
Probably a wheel sensor, Vagcom will tell you which one(s).

Track Rod said:
Indicator failure? Check! Replaced the relay.
A new indicator relay? On an 11 year old daily driver? Outrageous.

Track Rod said:
Smell of petrol? Check! Taped up the fractured hose, but still not completely cured.
You could try, y'know, replacing it?

Track Rod said:
Leaky doors? Check! Took the door panels off and applied sealant around the ancilliary carrier, seems to have worked.
Usually caused by people removing the panels and not resealing them, like they should. Left alone they almost always stay sealed, and if removed the seal tape should be checked\replaced.

Track Rod said:
I haven't had coil pack failure yet, but I'm sure it's just a matter of time.
Subject to a recall, check you have had it done.

Track Rod said:
How do I fix the leaky boot? I've searched the usual forums, but can't seem to find what I'm looking for, which is, ideally a guide (pictorial would be ideal) on how to fix it. The boot carpet is dry after a downfall, but things in the boot are getting wet, I'm going to investigate the rear washer pipe and the light clusters. Is it just a case of tightening connections/putting sealant on? Or is it more involved?
90% sure it'll be the wiper motor, or the pipework connecting to it that is leaking. Easily and cheaply fixed.

Track Rod said:
Every day it's taking me 5-10 minutes of sitting with the engine idling and fans on just to demist the condensation before I can see enough to actually see where I'm going-ridiculous!
You have a leak into the interior. Check the sunroof drains on the a-pillars in the door shuts, and the cover over the pollen filter - this is often replaced poorly which leads to leaks.

Track Rod said:
I should also add, it never idles properly.
Clean out the throttle body.

Track Rod said:
The nearside washer jet is blocked. Any ideas?
Clean out. Fuse wire, airline.

Track Rod said:
Replacing blown bulbs at an alarming rate, is that normal?
Replace bulbs with good-quality ones, and try replacing in pairs, eg, both brake bulbs, not one.

The vast majority of this is due to a) the age of the car, and b) previous neglect\bodgery.
Couldn't help but feel this was at least part of the problem.

Its a 10+ year old car with 140+ k miles, this is pretty standard to be honest.

Changedmyname

8,963 posts

61 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
My golf is older than yours,although a lot less mileage and has none of the above.
It's left on the driveway months on end and not used.
Like the guys said ,your car must have had a hard life previously.

shtu

781 posts

26 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
Nick1point9 said:
shtu said:
b) previous neglect\bodgery.
Couldn't help but feel this was at least part of the problem.
Yes, and stuff like wanging in can after can of injector cleaner, taping up hoses and the like does rather fall into that category too.

Nick1point9

3,620 posts

60 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
How much have you spent on injector cleaner?
How much did it cost to weld up the back box?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/seat-Leon-Cupra-Exhaust-...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GOLF-MK4-AUDI-A3-AGU-1-8...

Edited by Nick1point9 on Wednesday 3rd October 18:12

Changedmyname

8,963 posts

61 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
Nick1point9 said:
How much have you spent on injector cleaner?
How much did it cost to weld up the back box?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/seat-Leon-Cupra-Exhaust-...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GOLF-MK4-AUDI-A3-AGU-1-8...

Edited by Nick1point9 on Wednesday 3rd October 18:12
I noticed you linked an AGU Injectors, do they fit all Vag engines?....well 18ts.
I would thought he has an AUM the later engine.
Just a thought.

Nick1point9

3,620 posts

60 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
No idea if they'll fit, what just to show how cheaply parts can be picked up! I can't see why not, AFAIK the fuel rail and inlet manifold are the same between different engine codes.

Track Rod

Original Poster:

57 posts

27 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
Hi guys! What a response, you're a very helpful bunch. My original post was written whilst a little #issed (in the British and American sense!). Judging from the tone of some (well, one) response, you're clearly an enthusiast of the brand, and it certainly wasn't my intention to upset anyone. The Cupra is great, I was just frustrated after having just spent a few hours in the cold removing door panels and fixing the door leak, only to be presented with a new problem (the boot leak).
My post was intended as a cry for sympathy along the lines of "guys, I've bought a used car and I'm having lots of problems!".

I do, of course, accept that this is the chance you take with old cars, it's just that I've always had very old/high mileage cars, but I've never before had so many problems in so short a time, perhaps I've just been lucky. It is perfectly reasonable to expect a relay to fail in an 11 year old car. The point I was trying to make was that it's frustrating to have problems as rudimentary as water leaks/broken indicators from a manufacturer of such stature and experience as VAG. So please accept my humbles.
I am, as you correctly deduce, a cheapskate! I thought that was the whole spirit of bangernomics/PH? I could, as you point out, just fix it, but my mechanical skills are limited, so I'd be at the mercy of a garage to fix things like injectors, and I don't want to end up spending a load on repairs. It was, after all, a cheap car.
Condition wise, the car is immaculate inside and out, came with a full, documented history, expensive, matching tyres (Toyos) all round and an expensive after market stereo. Three previous, the most recent being a middle aged lady, so it didn't exactly set the 'prior neglect/bodgery' alarm bells ringing (although I accept that some degree of turd polishing may have occurred before I went to view it).

Anyhoo, in response to your questions, I don't know how much the exhaust weld cost, the garage did it as part of the pre-MOT work, and so far I've spent about $15 on injector cleaner (in 6 months) so you can perhaps understand my reluctance to start replacing injectors, which seem to range from $20 for reconditioned to $90 for brand new (it is the AUQ engine btw).
Thanks ever so much for your tips on the boot leak, I'll try them this weekend! If it doesn't rain!
I'll let you know how I get on!

Rod

...oh, and I'll try and stay away from the plains!!!



Edited by Track Rod on Wednesday 3rd October 20:16


Edited by Track Rod on Wednesday 3rd October 20:17


Edited by Track Rod on Wednesday 3rd October 20:18


Edited by Track Rod on Wednesday 3rd October 20:20


Edited by Track Rod on Wednesday 3rd October 20:22


Edited by Track Rod on Wednesday 3rd October 20:30


Edited by Track Rod on Wednesday 3rd October 20:31

Nick1point9

3,620 posts

60 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
There's only one way to learn how to fix/maintain cars! If the car is a bit of a heap (no offence) then you'll be a lot less nervous about tinkering!

Track Rod

Original Poster:

57 posts

27 months

[news] 
Wednesday 3rd October 2012 quote quote all
Good point, maybe I should be a little braver when it comes to spannering.

  • goes to Google 'how to replace injectors'**

shtu

781 posts

26 months

[news] 
Thursday 4th October 2012 quote quote all
Track Rod said:
My post was intended as a cry for sympathy along the lines of "guys, I've bought a used car and I'm having lots of problems!".
Sympathy? You're in the wrong shop sir, mumsnet is next door.

Wasn't having a pop, and I'm certainly no defender of VAG group, so don't be apologising. Point is, most of the stuff wrong there is wear and tear, previous neglect and bodgery, which you get on any decade-old, relatively low-priced secondhand car. There's little on there that's fundamentally wrong, or expensive\difficult to fix.

Track Rod

Original Poster:

57 posts

27 months

[news] 
Thursday 4th October 2012 quote quote all
Fair enough, I'll try mumsnet next time, although I seriously doubt they know much about elderly VAG products. I suspect their knowledge is of an entirely different type of VAG.

SuperchargedVR6

964 posts

100 months

[news] 
Thursday 4th October 2012 quote quote all
You'd get more friendly and helpful responses on a Seat or Cupra specific forum. Pistonheads is well known to contain lots of cliquey and miserable people biggrin

LuS1fer

31,307 posts

125 months

[news] 
Friday 5th October 2012 quote quote all
New cars are expensive but require less spent on them. The older a car gets, the more that equation reverses.

Taping a fuel pipe is never a good idea but if it's a pressured system that sure isn't going to keep pressure in.
Reply to Topic