Audi 80 convertible

Author
Discussion

chewee22

Original Poster:

14 posts

152 months

Saturday 6th October 2012
quotequote all
Hi, looking for some advise just sold my mx5 now want a 4 seater convertible so family can all use the car. Seriously thinking about an audi 80, however which is the best engine, spec to buy and does high milage matter, few on pistonheads and ebay? Anyone know of any ares to look at when viewing? I look forward to any advise, thanks in advance.

Vince70

1,939 posts

193 months

Sunday 7th October 2012
quotequote all
I would go for a 5 cylinder 2.3 with a manual gearbox, that way you get the best of both worlds with economy and performance.
It's a heavy car so going for the smaller 4 cylinder engines in 1.8 and 2.0 litre form won't really help with fuel consumption.

I get over 30 to the gallon out of mine on a run, recently I drove down from Lancaster to the south coast and put £50 in the tank and still had a bit of juice in the tank the following day to run about with.

Also with the 5 pot you get that lovely 5 pot engine sound.

It's never going to be a light and nimble car like the mx5 but for wafting about in there isn't a better car on a summers day.

Check to make sure the rear window is ok as it can cost a few quid to repair, also the temp and fuel gauges can play up but it's a very easy fix and costs nothing to repair.

As for the mechanicals they seem bomb proof, mine doesn't use a drop of oil or water and still drives as good as new and is now 20 years old, if you find any rot on one its a good sign its been accident damaged as they just don't rot.

hman

7,487 posts

193 months

Sunday 7th October 2012
quotequote all
5cyl engine is old tech and underpowered in one of these, get 2.6 or 2.8 manual.

I had 2.2 in a lighter coupe and an audi 90 both were pretty slow.

The 2.6 manual cab I then bought blew them both away. A 2.8 would be even better. I managed about 30ish mpg out of the v6's and I think it handles better as its a more compact engine. Mine also did many many many miles and cost me nothing in running costs really whereas the 5cyls blew manifolds, core plugs, cams, all sorts.

Go v6 they are miles better.

Edited by hman on Sunday 7th October 17:50

Vince70

1,939 posts

193 months

Sunday 7th October 2012
quotequote all
And the 2.6 and 2.8 are just to juicy especially if its mated to a slush box. My father has the 2.0 4 pot in a a6 avant which weighs about the same it's a very slow old beast but the engine is very reliable.
If you go for the 1.8 check the water pump and cambelt has been done and check for the tell tale mayonnaise from a head gasket problem there was more than a fair share of issues with broken impeller blades on water pumps causing the cars to overheat.
If its the same 1.8 as in the A4 also check coil packs as these are known to break down that's one of the reasons that you should go for the older engine as its got a trouble free dizzy and ht leads.

hman

7,487 posts

193 months

Sunday 7th October 2012
quotequote all
Oh my lord - do not for the love of Christ buy a 4 cyl convertible- 2cv's will overtake you !!!

When you buy an Audi cabriolet you buy one with a power hood, leather, and a v6 engine. Manual or auto is up to you.

Any other spec is just poor.

Really.

chewee22

Original Poster:

14 posts

152 months

Sunday 7th October 2012
quotequote all
hi All, thank you for the advise really helpful Will now start looking, if anyone knows of a good car could you please post link on here for me. thanks again.

AudiSport

1,458 posts

215 months

Sunday 7th October 2012
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I've had two 2.6 V6 Audi 80 Cabriolets. One a 95M and the other a 98V model - both great cars with comfort and performance.

Both of mine were manual with manual roofs and cloth interior!

hman

7,487 posts

193 months

Sunday 7th October 2012
quotequote all
Peasant wink

At least they had a v6smile

AudiSport

1,458 posts

215 months

Sunday 7th October 2012
quotequote all
hman said:
Peasant wink

At least they had a v6smile
I actually didn't wind the manual roof as its very quick to put down and cheap to fix if it goes wrong! Leather on the other hand would have been nice.

Interestingly, on both occasions I sold them for more than I paid for them following a years ownership. Buy in the winter and sell in the summer.

istoo

2,365 posts

201 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
i would suggest the V6 route as well, the 5 pot only came in 10v mode in the cabby. Its an older engine. The sportier 7A 20v never made it in there, but its a cracker of an engine.

The 2.6 and 2.8 V6s replaced the 10v and 20v 5pots from around 1992.

However as a cruiser orientated car the V6 would suit it well. I owned 2x 2.8 V6's in Quattro guise, a coupe and a saloon. Both great day to day drivers. Both very bulletrpoof over built engines, the saloon went on to just over 250k on the clock before dying (and it was mechanically rock solid. The 2.8 a little more exciting powerwise but not as pokey as the BMW equivalent 2.8. Wonderfully smooth. About as powerful as you could managed from FWD before it gets troublesome. The cabbies where all FWD, no quattros. Although there are a few quattro converted cars out there usually S2 5pot turbo powered.

For the V6's www.12v.org was a great website.

There are hardtops out there as well as soft tops. Depending where you live that might be a good purchase.

despite their age still a rather good looking car.

Personally i owuld be looking for a final edition V6 car which will be mid 90's. And will have some more mod cons.

http://www.classic-audi.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.p...

y2blade

56,029 posts

214 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
Vince70 said:
I would go for a 5 cylinder 2.3 with a manual gearbox, that way you get the best of both worlds with economy and performance.
It's a heavy car so going for the smaller 4 cylinder engines in 1.8 and 2.0 litre form won't really help with fuel consumption.

I get over 30 to the gallon out of mine on a run, recently I drove down from Lancaster to the south coast and put £50 in the tank and still had a bit of juice in the tank the following day to run about with.

Also with the 5 pot you get that lovely 5 pot engine sound.

It's never going to be a light and nimble car like the mx5 but for wafting about in there isn't a better car on a summers day.

Check to make sure the rear window is ok as it can cost a few quid to repair, also the temp and fuel gauges can play up but it's a very easy fix and costs nothing to repair.

As for the mechanicals they seem bomb proof, mine doesn't use a drop of oil or water and still drives as good as new and is now 20 years old, if you find any rot on one its a good sign its been accident damaged as they just don't rot.
+1 for the 5pot 2.3 cloud9
also the V6s are decent enough powerplants.

Audi 80s are lovely old cars.
If you buy a good one you won't loose anything on it, quiet the opposite as they seem to be appreciating tbh


istoo

2,365 posts

201 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
classic Audi 80 issues...
-leaky fuel lines, look underneath for these, you will smell it if they are.
-headlights are weak (eveyr VAG i have had of this era has been the same)
-accelerator rubber falls off (happened to 5 of 6 cars!)
-brake bomb failure (!) symbol on the dash, these are dear to replace
-suspension clunks (bushes are soft as, tie rods, top mounts).
-power steering fluid G00200 (Audis used this type) generic fluid will eat the hoses)
-rear brakes sticking.

I would buy by condition not age or mileage. Dont be put off by the above these are great cars, just all the things i can think off that i regularly looked at/paid to get fixed with this era of 80/90/100. They will go for a very long time if maintained well.

camperchick77

1 posts

117 months

Tuesday 10th June 2014
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Hi I have a audi 80 convertible but my fuel and water gauge not always working I believe they can be fixed pls help :-)

batchy

1 posts

116 months

Monday 14th July 2014
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can anyone help me please i have just bought a 1999 audi 80 2.6 converible the car is great, drives realy well but i got a few faults the temp and fuel gauge are not working any tips would be a great help.
cheers

mikes2w

49 posts

209 months

Tuesday 15th July 2014
quotequote all
temp / fuel gauges not working is usually the voltage regulator on the rear of the cluster