Corrado VR6 advice
Discussion
Hi all - does anyone have any advice on values, reliability, mechanicals, ownership costs etc on the VR6 Corrado? Prices seem all over the place with normal milers (100k plus for a 20 year old car) seeming reasonably realistic around 2-5k and low milers commanding silly money at 8-12k??
I'm half thinking about one instead of a Mk2 Golf and want to know what they're like as a fun modern classic?
What are peoples thoughts on something like this - http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2014...
I'm half thinking about one instead of a Mk2 Golf and want to know what they're like as a fun modern classic?
What are peoples thoughts on something like this - http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2014...
I've no idea on values, I sold mine in 1997. It was however the best car I have owned.
Apart from the body coloured grille on that example it looks like a cared for car, all the better for being standard.
I saw my old car in Southampton a couple of years ago, still on the Speedline wheels but with darkened rear
light clusters and a pressed metal German stylee number plate. I replaced mine with an Alfa GTV which was inferior to the Corrado in pretty much every respect.
Apart from the body coloured grille on that example it looks like a cared for car, all the better for being standard.
I saw my old car in Southampton a couple of years ago, still on the Speedline wheels but with darkened rear
light clusters and a pressed metal German stylee number plate. I replaced mine with an Alfa GTV which was inferior to the Corrado in pretty much every respect.
Will it be your daily driver or a second car?
I've got a MK2 GTI as a daily driver and a VR6 as my special car (although it does get used for daily duties when needed).
The Corrado feels special and it's a bit of an event using it. However, fuel consumption is nothing like as bad as some suggest. After all, you can hardly go everywhere at ramming speed unless you're a bit of a loon.
Prices are a bit scattered but if you can find one you like and trust I would say don't miss the opportunity to own one for a while.
I've got a MK2 GTI as a daily driver and a VR6 as my special car (although it does get used for daily duties when needed).
The Corrado feels special and it's a bit of an event using it. However, fuel consumption is nothing like as bad as some suggest. After all, you can hardly go everywhere at ramming speed unless you're a bit of a loon.
Prices are a bit scattered but if you can find one you like and trust I would say don't miss the opportunity to own one for a while.
I've had mine 7 years and never tire of it. I've spent a fair bit over the years replacing the wear and tear items, but never had any serious issues. engine is solid as a rock, just change oil and plugs regularly.
I reverted mine nearly back to standard - normal ride height with bilsteins, 16inch 4Motion wheels, OEM exhaust. All the suspension parts have been replaced and it handles beautifully (R32 wishbone bushes and H&R rear ARB - perfect).
I drive it everyday, have done 95k in the last 7 years, still going strong at 213k. front sill is rather rotted tho and now needs a repair but very little rust elsewhere.
the moral of the story for me is - drive it all the time and it'll go forever. Park it up and you get problems
I reverted mine nearly back to standard - normal ride height with bilsteins, 16inch 4Motion wheels, OEM exhaust. All the suspension parts have been replaced and it handles beautifully (R32 wishbone bushes and H&R rear ARB - perfect).
I drive it everyday, have done 95k in the last 7 years, still going strong at 213k. front sill is rather rotted tho and now needs a repair but very little rust elsewhere.
the moral of the story for me is - drive it all the time and it'll go forever. Park it up and you get problems
I had one for a while. Handled well, solidly built and went ok, even managed around 29 mpg on average.
I only got rid of it as it was starting to use quite a lot of oil, VW advise about 1 litre per 1000 miles I believe but mine was using quite a bit more.
Think one of the cylinders ( number 6 iirc ) gets hotter than the rest because of the thinner walls over the 2.8 which leads to bore wear so something to look for.
Apart from the usual 2nd hand car stuff to look at, other bits to check are the electrics, especially the spoiler and the sunroof, timing chain rattle and that the heater controls work correctly. The pegs on the back break so you sometimes cannot move them to all settings.
Other than that a cracking car
Cheers
Al
I only got rid of it as it was starting to use quite a lot of oil, VW advise about 1 litre per 1000 miles I believe but mine was using quite a bit more.
Think one of the cylinders ( number 6 iirc ) gets hotter than the rest because of the thinner walls over the 2.8 which leads to bore wear so something to look for.
Apart from the usual 2nd hand car stuff to look at, other bits to check are the electrics, especially the spoiler and the sunroof, timing chain rattle and that the heater controls work correctly. The pegs on the back break so you sometimes cannot move them to all settings.
Other than that a cracking car
Cheers
Al
Love mine and don't see me ever not having at least 1 Corrado in the fleet!!
The key things with VR6s Engines are:
1) Timing chains - i know from experience they can snap at 90k or last 170k so it is essential to check if they have been replaced or not.
2) if the timing chains are original - listen VERY carefully to the RIGHT side of the engine for signs of tapping/metal sounds or flapping (metal balls in a glass jar is one description that seems apt)
3) Headgasket, check around the block for signs of oil escaping, the back of the block on the right side can be a weak point as can the back LEFT side.
4) Clutch - when was it last done/has it been replaced ? has the crank oil seal been replaced
5) Does it run smooth, it should idle at under 1000rpm, nearer 650-750.
6) Does it pull cleanly through the revs, if it stutters around 3500rpm and through the midrange it's likely to be in limp mode and have a ECU filled with fault codes. Speaking of fault codes, Corrados are OBD1 and not all port readers can connect to them.
BODY
1) Do all the electrics work - spoiler, sunroof being the critical ones. Are the headlights/indicators/fogs in good order and not smashed
2) SILLs /JAcking points - make sure the sills and jacking points are good! replacement sills are very hard to get!
3) Front arches/wings, tend to rot around the indicator holes and at the bottom of the wing/sill join. Luckily all VR6s should be LATE spec cars with wider wings, there are far more 91 onwards corrados than early pre 91.
4) Boot floor, the seam along the edge of the boot floor can rot/split the seam = water ingress!
INTERIOR
1) Make sure the heater controls work, adjusting Heat/Direction and Speed - working Heater control panels can fetch £100+
2) Steering height adjuster, make sure it works and the cogs aren't worn - wobble steering wheel up/down to check.
3) check electric windows and mirrors work. These can often fail as the buttons get wet when the windows are down so its not always a case of new motors often the cheaper switch
4) Seats, drivers bolsters can fall apart. Black interiors with black carpets are MUCH more desirable than the grey.
Budget wise for a good VR6 £2-3k seems to be the ball park for an average one. You can get lucky and find them cheaper if you can put up with bad bodywork or unknown mechanicals. I took a punt on one for £750 with 195k on the clock but a new engine from VW 90k ago - the lower timing chain snapped!!!
As a rough guide if you are paying a garage to do the job to have new timing chain/tensioners, a head gasket and a clutch you are looking at £1500 BUT these are jobs that make sense to do all at the same time if there is no evidence of prior repairs. If it's just the timing chains/tensioners then those are <£200 for parts but require the gearbox to be separated hence it is always worth doing the clutch and the crank seal at the same time!
I know someone selling a good VR6 for £3500 which is a tidy red one on 81k, has some good modifications to the brakes/suspension/engine- Get on the Corrado Forum and have a browse of the classifieds.
The key things with VR6s Engines are:
1) Timing chains - i know from experience they can snap at 90k or last 170k so it is essential to check if they have been replaced or not.
2) if the timing chains are original - listen VERY carefully to the RIGHT side of the engine for signs of tapping/metal sounds or flapping (metal balls in a glass jar is one description that seems apt)
3) Headgasket, check around the block for signs of oil escaping, the back of the block on the right side can be a weak point as can the back LEFT side.
4) Clutch - when was it last done/has it been replaced ? has the crank oil seal been replaced
5) Does it run smooth, it should idle at under 1000rpm, nearer 650-750.
6) Does it pull cleanly through the revs, if it stutters around 3500rpm and through the midrange it's likely to be in limp mode and have a ECU filled with fault codes. Speaking of fault codes, Corrados are OBD1 and not all port readers can connect to them.
BODY
1) Do all the electrics work - spoiler, sunroof being the critical ones. Are the headlights/indicators/fogs in good order and not smashed
2) SILLs /JAcking points - make sure the sills and jacking points are good! replacement sills are very hard to get!
3) Front arches/wings, tend to rot around the indicator holes and at the bottom of the wing/sill join. Luckily all VR6s should be LATE spec cars with wider wings, there are far more 91 onwards corrados than early pre 91.
4) Boot floor, the seam along the edge of the boot floor can rot/split the seam = water ingress!
INTERIOR
1) Make sure the heater controls work, adjusting Heat/Direction and Speed - working Heater control panels can fetch £100+
2) Steering height adjuster, make sure it works and the cogs aren't worn - wobble steering wheel up/down to check.
3) check electric windows and mirrors work. These can often fail as the buttons get wet when the windows are down so its not always a case of new motors often the cheaper switch
4) Seats, drivers bolsters can fall apart. Black interiors with black carpets are MUCH more desirable than the grey.
Budget wise for a good VR6 £2-3k seems to be the ball park for an average one. You can get lucky and find them cheaper if you can put up with bad bodywork or unknown mechanicals. I took a punt on one for £750 with 195k on the clock but a new engine from VW 90k ago - the lower timing chain snapped!!!
As a rough guide if you are paying a garage to do the job to have new timing chain/tensioners, a head gasket and a clutch you are looking at £1500 BUT these are jobs that make sense to do all at the same time if there is no evidence of prior repairs. If it's just the timing chains/tensioners then those are <£200 for parts but require the gearbox to be separated hence it is always worth doing the clutch and the crank seal at the same time!
I know someone selling a good VR6 for £3500 which is a tidy red one on 81k, has some good modifications to the brakes/suspension/engine- Get on the Corrado Forum and have a browse of the classifieds.
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