Please help me TAME TECHNICIAN 2.0 TDI TOURAN AZV stalling
Discussion
Hi all, recently purchased a 2.0 tdi touran for partner as just had a baby. Bought off a friend (used to be owned by vw mechanic) so has been looked after. Has done 150k, been mapped, had a recon turbo. Lovely car to drive and pulls like a train through the rev range all the time.
When I purchased after a few weeks I had emission workshop show up. Vagcom showed 2 glow plug faults and air intake temp sensor along with aux heater fault.
I have cleaned EGR valve, checked anti shudder for operation and cleaned and replaced MAF thinking it would resolve airflow fault. Ended up being MAP sensor which I replaced. Car has developed a rough idle (intermitant) and will occasionally stall (mostly when idling or clutched) but sometimes when driving! again very intermittent
Anyhow started to learn how to use vagcom a bit more and read some great posts and replies from Tame technician. Have lent the missus the 330d until I fix it as don't want it stalling on her or baby!
So - current status. Fault is intermitant rough idle and stalling. When it's good it's real smooth though. I witness the idle drop in stages on the needle when It decides to play up. Car also appears to judder to hesitate (if I keep a constant 1500 rpm in 5th gear it feels like it judders sometimes)
Other things I have done since having the fault;
Replaced glow plugs (all) - cleared fault on vagcom
Replaced wiring loom for injectors and glow plugs
Replaced alternator and clutch pulley (pulley had siezed)
Remade all earth connections in engine bay
Deleted EGR and cooler with kit
Retimed torsion to 0 (was -4.5)
Fuel filter replaced and the re-replaced
Tried the clamping of return fuel line (still missing at idle)
When looking at measuring blocks when It decides to rough idle I notice injector 1 goes negative and cylinder 4 compensates positive.
I also notice injector quantity (single value) says 0 when idle drops. Is this what the ECU is requesting?
This sometimes clears and injectors are all perfect on measuring blocks.
I have witnessed the car coolant temperature go from ambient to 90 so appears to be working. Only other fault I can see on car is dash display which gets worse when it's hot so assume ribbon cable.
Please someone 'TAME TECHNICIAN' help me. Don't want to give up on her as she's a lovely motor and can't let it beat me.
My latest thinking is ECU fault or stretch bolts for injectors (based on what I have read)???
Like I say car drives lovely through the rev range . Any help or suggestions would be really appreciated.
Matt
When I purchased after a few weeks I had emission workshop show up. Vagcom showed 2 glow plug faults and air intake temp sensor along with aux heater fault.
I have cleaned EGR valve, checked anti shudder for operation and cleaned and replaced MAF thinking it would resolve airflow fault. Ended up being MAP sensor which I replaced. Car has developed a rough idle (intermitant) and will occasionally stall (mostly when idling or clutched) but sometimes when driving! again very intermittent
Anyhow started to learn how to use vagcom a bit more and read some great posts and replies from Tame technician. Have lent the missus the 330d until I fix it as don't want it stalling on her or baby!
So - current status. Fault is intermitant rough idle and stalling. When it's good it's real smooth though. I witness the idle drop in stages on the needle when It decides to play up. Car also appears to judder to hesitate (if I keep a constant 1500 rpm in 5th gear it feels like it judders sometimes)
Other things I have done since having the fault;
Replaced glow plugs (all) - cleared fault on vagcom
Replaced wiring loom for injectors and glow plugs
Replaced alternator and clutch pulley (pulley had siezed)
Remade all earth connections in engine bay
Deleted EGR and cooler with kit
Retimed torsion to 0 (was -4.5)
Fuel filter replaced and the re-replaced
Tried the clamping of return fuel line (still missing at idle)
When looking at measuring blocks when It decides to rough idle I notice injector 1 goes negative and cylinder 4 compensates positive.
I also notice injector quantity (single value) says 0 when idle drops. Is this what the ECU is requesting?
This sometimes clears and injectors are all perfect on measuring blocks.
I have witnessed the car coolant temperature go from ambient to 90 so appears to be working. Only other fault I can see on car is dash display which gets worse when it's hot so assume ribbon cable.
Please someone 'TAME TECHNICIAN' help me. Don't want to give up on her as she's a lovely motor and can't let it beat me.
My latest thinking is ECU fault or stretch bolts for injectors (based on what I have read)???
Like I say car drives lovely through the rev range . Any help or suggestions would be really appreciated.
Matt
Judder on light throttle at 1500rpm could be manifold swirl flap vacuum actuator.
Take a pic of the engine with the cover off, so I can see if its the same as ours, Often different from Audi to VW.
But that wont explain the stall.
Keep clearing the codes and recheck after you have had an "event" this is help sort the wheat from the chaff.
Check and double check the shut-off/throttle/anti shudder valve, these can appear to be ok, but then slam shut and stall the engine. Check the electrical connector for oil/water.
If its got an electric EGR valve check the connector for oil also.
How black was the fuel in the filter when you changed it??
Take a pic of the engine with the cover off, so I can see if its the same as ours, Often different from Audi to VW.
But that wont explain the stall.
Keep clearing the codes and recheck after you have had an "event" this is help sort the wheat from the chaff.
Check and double check the shut-off/throttle/anti shudder valve, these can appear to be ok, but then slam shut and stall the engine. Check the electrical connector for oil/water.
If its got an electric EGR valve check the connector for oil also.
How black was the fuel in the filter when you changed it??
Thanks for the quick reply. Really appreciated.
So not at home and stuck at work but will give you more detail and photo tomorrow. The EGR was vacuum operated and it has been deleted completely with cooler. Thought it best to eliminate for £70 and a bit of time. Had a leak on the cooler so worth doing. Also mapped out so doesn't flash up on management.
The anti shudder valve you mention has got oil in the connector actually ow you mention it....although.... I disconnected this when the engine was running and drove it home the other week. It stalled :-( so assume it's ok?
Vagcom is updated and doesn't show any events at all after a stall.
When the fuel filter was changed a couple of hundred miles ago-it was black (pretty bad) so a good shout. That's why I went back to it the other day and did it again. This time is was clean but replaced regardless.
Have been driving the past few days and very strange as mostly lovely to drive. Got home yesterday with no judder, erratic idle or stall. Rolled onto the drive, seatbelt of (touched key) and it stalled. Started straight away...wiggled key and stalled. Tried to recreate and no joy. Could have been coincidence however it has stalled when stationery quite a few times.
Not sure on cam timing - the vw mechanic read your post and then knew what I was talking about :-) will heck tonight and let you know. Will also send the photo tomorrow.
Thanks again - if you fix it happy to donate some £'s to the holiday fund!
Matt
So not at home and stuck at work but will give you more detail and photo tomorrow. The EGR was vacuum operated and it has been deleted completely with cooler. Thought it best to eliminate for £70 and a bit of time. Had a leak on the cooler so worth doing. Also mapped out so doesn't flash up on management.
The anti shudder valve you mention has got oil in the connector actually ow you mention it....although.... I disconnected this when the engine was running and drove it home the other week. It stalled :-( so assume it's ok?
Vagcom is updated and doesn't show any events at all after a stall.
When the fuel filter was changed a couple of hundred miles ago-it was black (pretty bad) so a good shout. That's why I went back to it the other day and did it again. This time is was clean but replaced regardless.
Have been driving the past few days and very strange as mostly lovely to drive. Got home yesterday with no judder, erratic idle or stall. Rolled onto the drive, seatbelt of (touched key) and it stalled. Started straight away...wiggled key and stalled. Tried to recreate and no joy. Could have been coincidence however it has stalled when stationery quite a few times.
Not sure on cam timing - the vw mechanic read your post and then knew what I was talking about :-) will heck tonight and let you know. Will also send the photo tomorrow.
Thanks again - if you fix it happy to donate some £'s to the holiday fund!
Matt
The picture proves the car doesnt have a vacuum operated manifold flap, so we can rule that out.
Adjusting the cam timing can improve the idle, so its worth doing both cams (torsion + fueling), but you are right it doesnt explain the intermitant nature of the fault.
Intermitant issues are offten contact or wiring related, try wiggling the wires in the engine harness near the cam sensor and arround the back of the battery with the engine running. If the engine cuts out as you wiggle, you have found an issue.
Adjusting the cam timing can improve the idle, so its worth doing both cams (torsion + fueling), but you are right it doesnt explain the intermitant nature of the fault.
Intermitant issues are offten contact or wiring related, try wiggling the wires in the engine harness near the cam sensor and arround the back of the battery with the engine running. If the engine cuts out as you wiggle, you have found an issue.
Hey Tame Technician.
Car is worse than even. Intermittant stalling on every journey now. I rescanned with vagcom today and had 3 fault codes. Also tried your wobble wires trick.
16496- intake air temperature sensor (G42)
Po112-000 signal too low
Rpm:0/min
Torque:98nm
Speed:0km/h
Load:0%
Voltage:12.08v
Temperature:133.2 degrees c
Temperature:16.2 degrees c
Temperature:17.1 degrees c
I have previously replaced the MAF and MAP sensors because of this fault code. Since replacing the MAP sensor I thought I had solved it.
Next code was rear brake light so won't bore you although again came up as fault then disappeared but logged a code. Not replaced lamp yet as fault has gone.
Finally the immobiliser fault code 00474 control module
004 no signal comms / intermittant.
Fault priority 2
Fault frequency 1
Any more thoughts mate? Literally dreaming about it - so frustrating...
Also had a spare anti shudder valve from a working audi. Replaced and still stalls. When it does stall I decided to pop the pipe off the bottom and check the position of the butterfly valve. It was fully open so not that.
Car is worse than even. Intermittant stalling on every journey now. I rescanned with vagcom today and had 3 fault codes. Also tried your wobble wires trick.
16496- intake air temperature sensor (G42)
Po112-000 signal too low
Rpm:0/min
Torque:98nm
Speed:0km/h
Load:0%
Voltage:12.08v
Temperature:133.2 degrees c
Temperature:16.2 degrees c
Temperature:17.1 degrees c
I have previously replaced the MAF and MAP sensors because of this fault code. Since replacing the MAP sensor I thought I had solved it.
Next code was rear brake light so won't bore you although again came up as fault then disappeared but logged a code. Not replaced lamp yet as fault has gone.
Finally the immobiliser fault code 00474 control module
004 no signal comms / intermittant.
Fault priority 2
Fault frequency 1
Any more thoughts mate? Literally dreaming about it - so frustrating...
Also had a spare anti shudder valve from a working audi. Replaced and still stalls. When it does stall I decided to pop the pipe off the bottom and check the position of the butterfly valve. It was fully open so not that.
Just to update anyone interested. Looks like crank sensor fault causing the surging and rough idle. Car eventually went into limp mode with flashing glow plug light. Was vey close to purchasing new injector!
A b
h to get to as located behind the oil cooler, have a feeling it's a broken wire as explains intermittant nature. Shame you can't get a scope reading on vagcom.
Regardless bought part today so will get fitted and fingers crossed its that.
£60 including a gasket for oil system from tps.
Will update once replaced/loom tested.
A b
h to get to as located behind the oil cooler, have a feeling it's a broken wire as explains intermittant nature. Shame you can't get a scope reading on vagcom.Regardless bought part today so will get fitted and fingers crossed its that.
£60 including a gasket for oil system from tps.
Will update once replaced/loom tested.
Gassing Station | Audi, Seat, Skoda & VW | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff