RS6 price discounts
Discussion
silentbrown said:
PCP is fine unless your circs change early in the contract, and you could have "negative equity" in the car. (or in your case, see much of your £25K downpayment go up in smoke)
I guess this is why I am not convinced the PCP is the right route for me.I have seen 1 year old cars going for £60k. Give it another year I guess this will be down to £50-55k. That's about £20-odd-k less than a new one... i.e. someone else will need to stomach the depreciation. Worse still someone will lose 40% in the first three years, about £30k.
I dont personally want to lose the £25k deposit and be left with little or no equity. My view is put down £25k, finance £30k with loans. when it comes to selling it after the loan term I will still have the initial capital and would have lost my loan repayments.
Essentially I lose the same amount of money however I have equity at the end of the deal.
Lostprophet said:
I dont personally want to lose the £25k deposit and be left with little or no equity. My view is put down £25k, finance £30k with loans. when it comes to selling it after the loan term I will still have the initial capital and would have lost my loan repayments.
Once you factor out the first few weeks of depreciation (which the discount will handily cover) I think it's not far off linear. You'll lose about 40-45% over three years, regardless of how old the car is. So (for example) 40% of a 70K car is £28K, 40% of a 2-year-old 55K car is £22K. So buying a 2-year old car saves you £6K over the three years, but on the other side, you've got to two years of warranty costs, an extra year of tax, and the issue that loads of important consumables (brakes/tyres/clutch, etc) are part-worn and likely to need replacement sooner.
silentbrown said:
Once you factor out the first few weeks of depreciation (which the discount will handily cover) I think it's not far off linear. You'll lose about 40-45% over three years, regardless of how old the car is. So (for example) 40% of a 70K car is £28K, 40% of a 2-year-old 55K car is £22K. So buying a 2-year old car saves you £6K over the three years, but on the other side, you've got to two years of warranty costs, an extra year of tax, and the issue that loads of important consumables (brakes/tyres/clutch, etc) are part-worn and likely to need replacement sooner.
there is very little in it - certainly 1 yr old cars v new. Factor in the 'nice' feel good factor of a new car and warranty/tyres and all the other bits for getting a new car, then sure it will be cheaper getting a 3 yr old car but its still not a new car.Lostprophet said:
I guess this is why I am not convinced the PCP is the right route for me.
I have seen 1 year old cars going for £60k. Give it another year I guess this will be down to £50-55k. That's about £20-odd-k less than a new one... i.e. someone else will need to stomach the depreciation. Worse still someone will lose 40% in the first three years, about £30k.
I dont personally want to lose the £25k deposit and be left with little or no equity. My view is put down £25k, finance £30k with loans. when it comes to selling it after the loan term I will still have the initial capital and would have lost my loan repayments.
Essentially I lose the same amount of money however I have equity at the end of the deal.
I can see what you are trying to say but I don't see it that way. The only reason you have equity is because you have paid the same amount of money for a much cheaper car. Therefore of course you have something left. A more expensive car is more expensive if you keep it forever. But if you want it for 3 yrs what is cheaper? Here is what was running through my mind. Might be wrong but worth a goI have seen 1 year old cars going for £60k. Give it another year I guess this will be down to £50-55k. That's about £20-odd-k less than a new one... i.e. someone else will need to stomach the depreciation. Worse still someone will lose 40% in the first three years, about £30k.
I dont personally want to lose the £25k deposit and be left with little or no equity. My view is put down £25k, finance £30k with loans. when it comes to selling it after the loan term I will still have the initial capital and would have lost my loan repayments.
Essentially I lose the same amount of money however I have equity at the end of the deal.
2013 plate cars are on average 57-60k (mixture of kit but nothing monumental). New cars can be had for 66k (no kit) 70k (Some kit) 75k+ (lots of kit). Lets take middle of the road 70k.
Option one - purchase a 57k car 25k deposit 32k loan (6.7% APR?) = monthly payment of c£1030k - Car is worth £34k in 3 years. So you have paid 25k + 37k loan = 62k. less equity (34k) you have when you sell it that is a cost of £28k for 3 yrs of RS6 add on service and non warranty parts 4k? = total 32k cost to own an RS6 for the 3rd to 6th year of life. If you go down the forever route it has cost you 62k for a 3 yr old rs6
Option two - Purchase the 70k car new, 25k deposit and Finance 45k paying £400 per month (PCP rate). Car is worth lets say 47k (trade in value based on sale prices of 2013 plates now (57k)?) as there will be higher supply also. 25k + £14.4k (400*36) = 39.4k. GFV is 36k so you sell it pay of Audi and have 11k cash back. Net result is 39.4k less 11k equity = 28.4k cost of ownership + 2k for tyres? = 30k!! If you go down the keep forever route it will cost you 80k + as you now need to finance the maount left to pay e.g. the GFV.
So what is the moral of the story here. My man maths (might be wrong) suggests that if you want to own an RS6 for 3 yrs and move on then new is cheaper!!!!!!! If you want to have a forever car then a newer one is more expensive as obviously full term Finance costs more
Thoughts?
As you do I was playing around with the settings in my new RS6 and was messing around with the stability control button and holding down the stop/start button. I found that holding both and turning the MMI knob I could access a new performance/power screen where I could select "Standard" or "Performance". I changed it to Performance clearly.
Hopefully a free way to upgrade the RS6 to the RS6 Performance. Will test it out more later on the roads.
Hopefully a free way to upgrade the RS6 to the RS6 Performance. Will test it out more later on the roads.
superlightr said:
As you do I was playing around with the settings in my new RS6 and was messing around with the stability control button and holding down the stop/start button. I found that holding both and turning the MMI knob I could access a new performance/power screen where I could select "Standard" or "Performance". I changed it to Performance clearly.
Did the wheels grow an inch bigger, too?superlightr said:
As you do I was playing around with the settings in my new RS6 and was messing around with the stability control button and holding down the stop/start button. I found that holding both and turning the MMI knob I could access a new performance/power screen where I could select "Standard" or "Performance". I changed it to Performance clearly.
Hopefully a free way to upgrade the RS6 to the RS6 Performance. Will test it out more later on the roads.
Does this only work today??Hopefully a free way to upgrade the RS6 to the RS6 Performance. Will test it out more later on the roads.
Some of the man maths (sell it to yourself reasoning) is incredible 
It is cheaper to buy second hand = fact.
Go approved used if you don't want any risk.
If you want to keep the car for ever and want to buy new, go to carwow and buy with your savings. If you don't have the savings then you're paying a premium for using loans.
It's that simple...
It is cheaper to buy second hand = fact.
Go approved used if you don't want any risk.
If you want to keep the car for ever and want to buy new, go to carwow and buy with your savings. If you don't have the savings then you're paying a premium for using loans.
It's that simple...
fastgerman said:
Some of the man maths (sell it to yourself reasoning) is incredible
It is cheaper to buy second hand = fact.
New cars cost more to buy than second-hand = fact.It is cheaper to buy second hand = fact.
New cars depreciate faster than second-hand = fact.
But Second-hand cars cost more to run than new = fact.
OVerall, I'm sure you're right, and I'm there's a big man-maths element in it, BUT the difference in ownership costs between a new car and a 2-year old car over (say) a 3 year period are a lot less than you'd think at first.
silentbrown said:
fastgerman said:
Some of the man maths (sell it to yourself reasoning) is incredible
It is cheaper to buy second hand = fact.
New cars cost more to buy than second-hand = fact.It is cheaper to buy second hand = fact.
New cars depreciate faster than second-hand = fact.
But Second-hand cars cost more to run than new = fact.
OVerall, I'm sure you're right, and I'm there's a big man-maths element in it, BUT the difference in ownership costs between a new car and a 2-year old car over (say) a 3 year period are a lot less than you'd think at first.
Example My 911 never incurred more than servicing bills in 4 years due to being under Porsche warranty and I bought the car for approx. 40% of it's original price. This versus buying outright on PCP and paying a balloon at the end makes my eyes hurt
There was very little difference in it for a new rs6 v 1yr old facelift rs6.
Its also nice to own a new car - and yes you pay a premium for it. So what? Oranges and Apples.
fek the maths - you can either afford it and willing to spunk your money on a new car or are able to or not able to and dont want to spend your money that way. Makes no ends to me either way. Neither is the right answer. Do whats best for you.
I bought a new 911 Targa long time ago - I was happy to spunk the money on new rather then a 2 yr or 4 yr car. Sure it was cheaper for a used car but I wanted new and could man maths it for me. Again getting used or new is down to each person and how they want to spunk their money. Its just at present a close call for a new RS6 v 1 yrs old RS6 in costs.
Its also nice to own a new car - and yes you pay a premium for it. So what? Oranges and Apples.
fek the maths - you can either afford it and willing to spunk your money on a new car or are able to or not able to and dont want to spend your money that way. Makes no ends to me either way. Neither is the right answer. Do whats best for you.
I bought a new 911 Targa long time ago - I was happy to spunk the money on new rather then a 2 yr or 4 yr car. Sure it was cheaper for a used car but I wanted new and could man maths it for me. Again getting used or new is down to each person and how they want to spunk their money. Its just at present a close call for a new RS6 v 1 yrs old RS6 in costs.
Edited by superlightr on Friday 1st April 16:33
Edited by superlightr on Friday 1st April 16:35
Edited by superlightr on Friday 1st April 16:37
fastgerman said:
True, yes but approved used cars don't cost much more to run especially when under warranty. Servicing is only every 2 years on new VAG?
Approved used has 1 year warranty, new has 3 (or up to 5, at very reasonable cost). so if you're buying at say 2 years old, the approved used warranty isn't relevant. If you buy the 2-y/o car, you need to buy warranty for the remaining 2 years of ownership. Around £1K a year, I'd guess. Let's lump the main consumable costs of tyres ,brakes, discs together and assume they are all 50% worn. (Yes, smart buying can improve this, but it's a baseline.) If replacing the lot cost around £3K, then the s/h car has £1500 less consumables 'included'. Also, no need to pay for MOTs, and first year tax is included in 'on the road' figure.
silentbrown said:
fastgerman said:
True, yes but approved used cars don't cost much more to run especially when under warranty. Servicing is only every 2 years on new VAG?
Approved used has 1 year warranty, new has 3 (or up to 5, at very reasonable cost). so if you're buying at say 2 years old, the approved used warranty isn't relevant. If you buy the 2-y/o car, you need to buy warranty for the remaining 2 years of ownership. Around £1K a year, I'd guess. Let's lump the main consumable costs of tyres ,brakes, discs together and assume they are all 50% worn. (Yes, smart buying can improve this, but it's a baseline.) If replacing the lot cost around £3K, then the s/h car has £1500 less consumables 'included'. Also, no need to pay for MOTs, and first year tax is included in 'on the road' figure.
Welshbeef said:
Burwood said:
2 yearly servicing, really? That wouldn't sit well with me. Even if i did the oil, it would be regularly
Why would you care after the car left your ownership?
I wanted a facelift car so my choice at the time was used early Audi Approved 2015 with 10k miles in poverty spec for £63k with just over 2 year warranty.
Or brand new 2016 model to my exact (higher) spec with 5 year warranty and free year road tax for £10k more thanks to discount and better trade in.
No brainer for me when spending that sort of money. Extra warranty is worth £3600 alone. And my car has to be worth a few K more when I sell. So net extra cost of new car 2-3k?
Fantastic car by the way
Or brand new 2016 model to my exact (higher) spec with 5 year warranty and free year road tax for £10k more thanks to discount and better trade in.
No brainer for me when spending that sort of money. Extra warranty is worth £3600 alone. And my car has to be worth a few K more when I sell. So net extra cost of new car 2-3k?
Fantastic car by the way
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