Discussion
I have just been given a A6 Quattro 2.4 petrol estate on a 2001 plate.
It seems a tidy car with just a couple of faults being an engine management light on and a blowing exhaust somewhere below and just along from the down pipe.
The previous owner tells me the engine light is a cam phase sensor? The car starts and runs well so not sure what to do with it really.
Is the sensor an expensive fix? If so I may scrap the car or try to sell for parts but seems a shame for such a nice car.
Here are a few photos.
It seems a tidy car with just a couple of faults being an engine management light on and a blowing exhaust somewhere below and just along from the down pipe.
The previous owner tells me the engine light is a cam phase sensor? The car starts and runs well so not sure what to do with it really.
Is the sensor an expensive fix? If so I may scrap the car or try to sell for parts but seems a shame for such a nice car.
Here are a few photos.
I had one of those. Nice car. Mine was 2WD though. Engine is funny beast , sounds like a turbine at high revs, no exhaust note at all, but extremely smooth and powerful enough.
The engine was easy enough to work on so you should be able to access the part fairly easily. However, as with most audis the bumper has to come off and radiator tipped forward to get to the timing belt and even to get the covers off IIRC. Not hard to do, just time consuming. Going to depend on what end the cam sensors are.
The engine was easy enough to work on so you should be able to access the part fairly easily. However, as with most audis the bumper has to come off and radiator tipped forward to get to the timing belt and even to get the covers off IIRC. Not hard to do, just time consuming. Going to depend on what end the cam sensors are.
Yeah what Dr G said, Elsawin, definitely don't buy it from Ebay.
The crank sensor is fairly easy to get to. Remove the plastic under tray (the clips all break, most people either use zip ties to bit back or don't bother with the splash guard). Look up near the back of the oil filter you should see the sensor held in with a hex key. Un bolt and remove. might need to give it a bit of a wiggle as the o ring may have stuck.
The crank sensor is fairly easy to get to. Remove the plastic under tray (the clips all break, most people either use zip ties to bit back or don't bother with the splash guard). Look up near the back of the oil filter you should see the sensor held in with a hex key. Un bolt and remove. might need to give it a bit of a wiggle as the o ring may have stuck.
My folks had an A4 2.4 and it was reasonably spritely. Quattro with it is fairly rare as they tended to be limited to the 2.8/3.0 engines.
Think one of the cam sensors is on the back and the other on the front (poss cambelt off?) so if it's just the crank sensor, happy days! One failed on my parents car and showed previous evidence of bodgery with oil leaks onto the exhaust from gasket gunk rather than a new seal. Once fixed properly it didn't fail again. They had the car for years and it only expired after the (front wheel drive) auto box died and would've cost more than the value of the car to fix
Think one of the cam sensors is on the back and the other on the front (poss cambelt off?) so if it's just the crank sensor, happy days! One failed on my parents car and showed previous evidence of bodgery with oil leaks onto the exhaust from gasket gunk rather than a new seal. Once fixed properly it didn't fail again. They had the car for years and it only expired after the (front wheel drive) auto box died and would've cost more than the value of the car to fix
I have replaced the crank position sensor but the engine light has come back on.
The exhaust is blowing at the down pipe junction with the flexi mesh on both sides.
It looks as though there are a lambda sensor on both sides in the box after the flexi
Could these throw up the engine light?
Also it looks like I may need an entire system including the down pipes as there is now clamp joint from down pipe to the first mesh area. To be honest the whole system is in poor condition.
Any ideas were I may be able to buy a full system?
The exhaust is blowing at the down pipe junction with the flexi mesh on both sides.
It looks as though there are a lambda sensor on both sides in the box after the flexi
Could these throw up the engine light?
Also it looks like I may need an entire system including the down pipes as there is now clamp joint from down pipe to the first mesh area. To be honest the whole system is in poor condition.
Any ideas were I may be able to buy a full system?
You need to get it scanned for fault codes. If you are close to Maidenhead, I could help with that.
A code scan should help narrow it down but it may be the exhaust that is causing the issue particularly if it is blowing before the second lamda(s).
As for the exhaust, e-bay would be my starting point. £186 is pricy though for the center section. Better would be to actually take the car to an exhaust place and get their view and to find out exactly which bit is blowing.
A code scan should help narrow it down but it may be the exhaust that is causing the issue particularly if it is blowing before the second lamda(s).
As for the exhaust, e-bay would be my starting point. £186 is pricy though for the center section. Better would be to actually take the car to an exhaust place and get their view and to find out exactly which bit is blowing.
magooagain said:
I have replaced the crank position sensor but the engine light has come back on.
The exhaust is blowing at the down pipe junction with the flexi mesh on both sides.
It looks as though there are a lambda sensor on both sides in the box after the flexi
Could these throw up the engine light?
Also it looks like I may need an entire system including the down pipes as there is now clamp joint from down pipe to the first mesh area. To be honest the whole system is in poor condition.
Any ideas were I may be able to buy a full system?
One of the best cars Audi has made. Mine has just turned over 150K and drives like new. Very economical for such a big car and the engine is pure silk.The exhaust is blowing at the down pipe junction with the flexi mesh on both sides.
It looks as though there are a lambda sensor on both sides in the box after the flexi
Could these throw up the engine light?
Also it looks like I may need an entire system including the down pipes as there is now clamp joint from down pipe to the first mesh area. To be honest the whole system is in poor condition.
Any ideas were I may be able to buy a full system?
The flexy sections are available from most motor factors, but take the front pipes off and weld them in properly; don't use clamps.
The lambda sensors will bring the EML on due to drawing air at the broken flexy sections. Fix them first and then do a reset with a code reader or Vagcom. If you like the car and decide to keep it, buy Vagcom and stick it in your laptop or i Pad. Worth its weight in gold. You can then diagnose the whole car with accuracy.
If you need a full exhaust try Online Automotive or Euro car parts. I have to say that most of these systems last a helluva long time. Mine is totally orignal apart from the flexies at 150K and 15 years old!
J
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