Change autobox oil?
Discussion
The official word from Audi is the gearbox oil in the tiptronics doesnt need changing ever, only the dsg and multi tronics have a specified oil change at every 40k.
However it is good practice to change auto gearbox oil every 60k or so, I'd change the filter too if it was me. But when you ring up your local Audi centre, they will say it doesn't need doing and wont carry the parts in stock, because AUDI insist its not necessary.
However it is good practice to change auto gearbox oil every 60k or so, I'd change the filter too if it was me. But when you ring up your local Audi centre, they will say it doesn't need doing and wont carry the parts in stock, because AUDI insist its not necessary.
All Audi tip tronic boxes are sealed for life.
In fact I think you will find most "NORMAL" auto boxs are now, Jags were from 1998 on.
Oil is easy to change if you have a ramp and the correct tools. There is a specific tool for filling as Audi and or ZF thought this would be best done from under the car. You have to fill a container of oil and hang it up on the bonnet catch, gravity does its thing and forces the oil up into the box.
In fact I think you will find most "NORMAL" auto boxs are now, Jags were from 1998 on.
Oil is easy to change if you have a ramp and the correct tools. There is a specific tool for filling as Audi and or ZF thought this would be best done from under the car. You have to fill a container of oil and hang it up on the bonnet catch, gravity does its thing and forces the oil up into the box.
Tame Technician said:
All Audi tip tronic boxes are sealed for life.
In fact I think you will find most "NORMAL" auto boxs are now, Jags were from 1998 on.
Oil is easy to change if you have a ramp and the correct tools. There is a specific tool for filling as Audi and or ZF thought this would be best done from under the car. You have to fill a container of oil and hang it up on the bonnet catch, gravity does its thing and forces the oil up into the box.
so is it a good idea to get the oil changed on one of these 'boxs? and does this significant help with its life span?In fact I think you will find most "NORMAL" auto boxs are now, Jags were from 1998 on.
Oil is easy to change if you have a ramp and the correct tools. There is a specific tool for filling as Audi and or ZF thought this would be best done from under the car. You have to fill a container of oil and hang it up on the bonnet catch, gravity does its thing and forces the oil up into the box.
assuming its best to get this done at a good specialist instead of a dealer....
think on this model year vag diagnostics eqipment is needed to check the oil level in the box this is also done at a certain running temperature which is around 60 d/c , best to buy the oil from audi to and not to just use common atf fluid as the oil is different and is a longlife oil and is specialy designed for these gearboxes, best to spend a little now rather a fortune when it goes wrong.
billy5 said:
so its not just a case of draining the old oil,
and filling it up till it runs out of a fill hole,
do you measure wat you take out so you know how much to put back,?
how do you get at the filter?
NO you dont measure what comes out, and filling it up till it runs out of a fill hole,
do you measure wat you take out so you know how much to put back,?
how do you get at the filter?
Yes but No, you do just drain it out. You do kinda just fill til it comes out, but the fill isnt on the side like a diff or a manual box, and Its all a bit more involved.
The drain and filler are on the bottom of the gearbox sump. So you get access under the car.
There is a special tool to get the oil to go uphill into the gearbox from underneath.
This pic, shows the inside of the gearbox sump, the yellow mark is pointing at the drain bung. The white thing is the inside of the filler.
To fill the gearbox you need a special tool, with a remote oil reservoir, which you have to hang higher than the gearbox so that gravity forces the oil up inside the box. The filling tool actually hooks inside the filler in the sump of the gearbox, the filler is raised from the bottom of the sump to achieve the correct level.
As pointed out above, the type of oil is crucial and you are suppose to check a measure value block to set the level at the correct temperature. But this is less crucial, if you do it cold it will be very slightly overfilled, and that wont hurt. I use a laser thermometer on the sump pan.
There is a specific filling procedure too, failing to do this will result in the wrong level and damage the box.
(1) Fill "using the special tool/remote reservoir" until its up to the level with the engine off, (at this stage the gearbox is about half full and just about safe to run for 5 mins or so, "it would blow up if the rest of the procedure isn't done")
(2) refill the remote reservoir with gearbox oil. Then run the engine and go through the gears
(which lowers the level) then continue filling with the engine running, until it reaches the level. P
(3)Leave the engine running until the gearbox reaches the correct temperature and recheck the level at this time.
Forgot about the filter.
TO get at the filter, you take the gearbox sump off. Clean all the metal off of the magnets, wipe out the inside of the sump and replace the filter with a new o ring of course.
Here a how to for an XJ8 Jaguar, very similar (ZF box also), except jag had the good sense to put the filler on the side of the box rather than the bottom. They haven't figured out how to make oil go uphill in the midlands yet
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
TO get at the filter, you take the gearbox sump off. Clean all the metal off of the magnets, wipe out the inside of the sump and replace the filter with a new o ring of course.
Here a how to for an XJ8 Jaguar, very similar (ZF box also), except jag had the good sense to put the filler on the side of the box rather than the bottom. They haven't figured out how to make oil go uphill in the midlands yet
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Tame Technician said:
billy5 said:
so its not just a case of draining the old oil,
and filling it up till it runs out of a fill hole,
do you measure wat you take out so you know how much to put back,?
how do you get at the filter?
NO you dont measure what comes out, and filling it up till it runs out of a fill hole,
do you measure wat you take out so you know how much to put back,?
how do you get at the filter?
Yes but No, you do just drain it out. You do kinda just fill til it comes out, but the fill isnt on the side like a diff or a manual box, and Its all a bit more involved.
The drain and filler are on the bottom of the gearbox sump. So you get access under the car.
There is a special tool to get the oil to go uphill into the gearbox from underneath.
This pic, shows the inside of the gearbox sump, the yellow mark is pointing at the drain bung. The white thing is the inside of the filler.
To fill the gearbox you need a special tool, with a remote oil reservoir, which you have to hang higher than the gearbox so that gravity forces the oil up inside the box. The filling tool actually hooks inside the filler in the sump of the gearbox, the filler is raised from the bottom of the sump to achieve the correct level.
As pointed out above, the type of oil is crucial and you are suppose to check a measure value block to set the level at the correct temperature. But this is less crucial, if you do it cold it will be very slightly overfilled, and that wont hurt. I use a laser thermometer on the sump pan.
There is a specific filling procedure too, failing to do this will result in the wrong level and damage the box.
(1) Fill "using the special tool/remote reservoir" until its up to the level with the engine off, (at this stage the gearbox is about half full and just about safe to run for 5 mins or so, "it would blow up if the rest of the procedure isn't done")
(2) refill the remote reservoir with gearbox oil. Then run the engine and go through the gears
(which lowers the level) then continue filling with the engine running, until it reaches the level. P
(3)Leave the engine running until the gearbox reaches the correct temperature and recheck the level at this time.
billy5 said:
tame tech,
thanks for the detailed info, really bang on.
do i have to get this filler tool or can i improvise
with a pipe that will fit the hole, and a funnel.[any suggestions]
were do i get the o ring and filter if audi dont keep them.
how much oil,1 gallon or wat,
ta billy
You can get the parts and the oil from your local Audi centre, but they will have to order it in. When I said they dont keep it, i meant they dont keep it on the shelf as its not a normal service item. Typically we would only get the oil in, if we had to take a gearbox apart of somthing.thanks for the detailed info, really bang on.
do i have to get this filler tool or can i improvise
with a pipe that will fit the hole, and a funnel.[any suggestions]
were do i get the o ring and filter if audi dont keep them.
how much oil,1 gallon or wat,
ta billy
You really wont be able to make the tool, it not only has to get the oil in there but has to hook into a smalle square inside the filler inside the box. Best bet is to take it to an auto gearbox specialist near you. Will be loads in yellow pages etc.
Unless you think you can make this, http://www.samstagsales.com/images/vag1924.jpg
I dont think there would be any benefit in changing it more frequently, its not that type of gearbox.
The only part that fails alot on the DSG box's is electrical and nothing to do with the oil.
Stick to the recommended 40k intervals (but make sure it gets done before 40K) Warranty and Goodwill, if you ever need it later, will rejected claims if the oil is change as little as 500 miles over the 40K interval.
The only part that fails alot on the DSG box's is electrical and nothing to do with the oil.
Stick to the recommended 40k intervals (but make sure it gets done before 40K) Warranty and Goodwill, if you ever need it later, will rejected claims if the oil is change as little as 500 miles over the 40K interval.
Jeux said:
Tame Technician said:
billy5 said:
so its not just a case of draining the old oil,
and filling it up till it runs out of a fill hole,
do you measure wat you take out so you know how much to put back,?
how do you get at the filter?
NO you dont measure what comes out, and filling it up till it runs out of a fill hole,
do you measure wat you take out so you know how much to put back,?
how do you get at the filter?
Yes but No, you do just drain it out. You do kinda just fill til it comes out, but the fill isnt on the side like a diff or a manual box, and Its all a bit more involved.
The drain and filler are on the bottom of the gearbox sump. So you get access under the car.
There is a special tool to get the oil to go uphill into the gearbox from underneath.
This pic, shows the inside of the gearbox sump, the yellow mark is pointing at the drain bung. The white thing is the inside of the filler.
To fill the gearbox you need a special tool, with a remote oil reservoir, which you have to hang higher than the gearbox so that gravity forces the oil up inside the box. The filling tool actually hooks inside the filler in the sump of the gearbox, the filler is raised from the bottom of the sump to achieve the correct level.
As pointed out above, the type of oil is crucial and you are suppose to check a measure value block to set the level at the correct temperature. But this is less crucial, if you do it cold it will be very slightly overfilled, and that wont hurt. I use a laser thermometer on the sump pan.
There is a specific filling procedure too, failing to do this will result in the wrong level and damage the box.
(1) Fill "using the special tool/remote reservoir" until its up to the level with the engine off, (at this stage the gearbox is about half full and just about safe to run for 5 mins or so, "it would blow up if the rest of the procedure isn't done")
(2) refill the remote reservoir with gearbox oil. Then run the engine and go through the gears
(which lowers the level) then continue filling with the engine running, until it reaches the level. P
(3)Leave the engine running until the gearbox reaches the correct temperature and recheck the level at this time.
The container for the oil is basically the same, but the end for the DSG box is different. The DSG and Multi tronic ones screw in, the tip tronics hook into the box.
I couldnt find a pic of the DSG one, but this is the Multi tronic one, very similar.
http://www.samstagsales.com/images/vas5162.jpg
These tools are like £150, its surly cheaper to pay someone to do it.
If its any help, here's an american website selling all the special tools, (is where I got the images from)
http://www.samstagsales.com/vwaudi.htm
I couldnt find a pic of the DSG one, but this is the Multi tronic one, very similar.
http://www.samstagsales.com/images/vas5162.jpg
These tools are like £150, its surly cheaper to pay someone to do it.
If its any help, here's an american website selling all the special tools, (is where I got the images from)
http://www.samstagsales.com/vwaudi.htm
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