A4 Tdi oil pump chain woes
Discussion
Well done good effort hope it goes well.
I dont wont to pee on your efforts at all, but just a note to others who may want to try a home reapair, you dont need to drain the A/C system, you can unbolt the compressor and swing it to one side on its hoses, also no need to take off wishbones, just undo and remove all but the very rear subframe bolts, these need to be undone but left just hangin in there to drop the subframe enough to remove the sump.
A brace bar that goes from inner wing to inner wing is what we use to hold the engine up while the subframe is lowered. Again hireable.
I've stripted the heads off one of those bolts before, you need a very good quality snapon tool and hammer it in as you undo you need to shock them, (you could use an air gun, but as we dont take the front right off and only pull it forwards there isnt room)
We can only charge 1.5 hours to get the front end forward and somthing like 5.5 hours (included that 1.5) to remove and refit a sump. SO now you've had a go at it and how hard it is, do you have a bit more sympathy for us techs that get accused of ripping people off on jobs like that.
I dont wont to pee on your efforts at all, but just a note to others who may want to try a home reapair, you dont need to drain the A/C system, you can unbolt the compressor and swing it to one side on its hoses, also no need to take off wishbones, just undo and remove all but the very rear subframe bolts, these need to be undone but left just hangin in there to drop the subframe enough to remove the sump.
A brace bar that goes from inner wing to inner wing is what we use to hold the engine up while the subframe is lowered. Again hireable.
I've stripted the heads off one of those bolts before, you need a very good quality snapon tool and hammer it in as you undo you need to shock them, (you could use an air gun, but as we dont take the front right off and only pull it forwards there isnt room)
We can only charge 1.5 hours to get the front end forward and somthing like 5.5 hours (included that 1.5) to remove and refit a sump. SO now you've had a go at it and how hard it is, do you have a bit more sympathy for us techs that get accused of ripping people off on jobs like that.
Cheers TT, yea I see what you mean about the air con, however we were so cramped in our working space, we did benefit from removing, otherwise we could have damaged the unit otherwise, particularly with the lift close to the wing.
We will have to try hammering the snappon head onto the bolt, we tried 2 of 4 and both turned to mush. I was disappointed on this as other bolt came of relatively well in the whole procedure, (some of the long bolts from the frame took time to get out, i.e 1/4 turn at a time when you are squeezed under the motor!!
Did you ever have to grind the heads off these bolts and remove them using tap< could take us a while if we have to !!!
But the plastic tensioner was broken like in your picture, i am wondering if this is due to chain stretch and movement against tensioner, when i go back to finish the work., I would like to compare the lengths.
We will have to try hammering the snappon head onto the bolt, we tried 2 of 4 and both turned to mush. I was disappointed on this as other bolt came of relatively well in the whole procedure, (some of the long bolts from the frame took time to get out, i.e 1/4 turn at a time when you are squeezed under the motor!!
Did you ever have to grind the heads off these bolts and remove them using tap< could take us a while if we have to !!!
But the plastic tensioner was broken like in your picture, i am wondering if this is due to chain stretch and movement against tensioner, when i go back to finish the work., I would like to compare the lengths.
My 05 Audi A4 80k miles 2.0 TDI has the oil pump/balancer shaft chain noise. I have booked it into my local independent garage to have chain tensioner and pump sprocket replaced, as Tame-Technician says. I gave them the part numbers provided, and they have just come back today 6th Feb and said the Audi dealership they use has said the parts are no longer available, and must be replaced with the spur gear etc etc parts cost about £900 want plus labour ! Obviously i do not want to spend this kind of money. Are the chain etc still available ? Thanks
I actually went to my helpful VW dealer & got the parts needed no problem at a cost of £75.
I actually went to my helpful VW dealer & got the parts needed no problem at a cost of £75.
Edited by ahardworkingdad on Saturday 13th February 08:29
TT - We ground them off yesterday, only took 10 mins, we did not need extractors so was best solution. Audi originally gave me 4 lower sprocket bolts (bolts N 911 213 01) but these were the wrong ones, i need to check if the numbers of the correct ones from receipt and post later.
Finished most of timing belt and chain assembly about 5pm last night, then worked to 10 last night re-building, Finished after 2hrs this morning. Only mistake i think we made, at this pint in time, was forgetting to add the two side plastic bits either side of the radiator, are they to funnel air and keep them clean?. One problem though is the oil warning light is on, obviously oil is at correct level, could it be the Sensor, perhaps we got plug connector on oil pump sender mixed up.
We had bumper 50% on after 2 hrs and could not bare taking it off again. I wonder if front grill removal would provide access to these areas!!. Some of the under tray gromits and clips wee not in best condition so will buy new set and change in the future.
PS on the TDi site Oil hammer was giving me a hard time about only doing the chain, said that he had done this in early days and two cars came back with same problem after 20K. TT have you had repeat issued after so few miles?
Finished most of timing belt and chain assembly about 5pm last night, then worked to 10 last night re-building, Finished after 2hrs this morning. Only mistake i think we made, at this pint in time, was forgetting to add the two side plastic bits either side of the radiator, are they to funnel air and keep them clean?. One problem though is the oil warning light is on, obviously oil is at correct level, could it be the Sensor, perhaps we got plug connector on oil pump sender mixed up.
We had bumper 50% on after 2 hrs and could not bare taking it off again. I wonder if front grill removal would provide access to these areas!!. Some of the under tray gromits and clips wee not in best condition so will buy new set and change in the future.
PS on the TDi site Oil hammer was giving me a hard time about only doing the chain, said that he had done this in early days and two cars came back with same problem after 20K. TT have you had repeat issued after so few miles?
Edited by weggie on Saturday 6th February 17:57
When you say oil light, PLEASE PLEASE tell me you meen the low oil level light not the low oil pressure one, or you will be pulling it all apart again.
The low oil level sensor it the one right on the bottom of the sump, small black connector. You can access it with only the undertray to take off. Is just along the harness from the A/C compressor and the N/S electric engine mount. Make sure there all pluged in and it should go out.
IF there is any doubt make sure its not the oil pressure light and dont run the engine until you KNOW its got oil pressure. If you dont have an oil pressure gauge, You can crack off (undo a turn or two) the turbo oil feed and then crank the engine on the starter or let if run for just a second, oil should come out under pressure.
Regarding Oil Hammer comments.
The ones that fail again after 20k are ones where people didnt inspect the bigger gear properly, like I said before if the teeth on the big gear are worn the new chain and the big gear will wear much much faster.
On one of the other forums there is another car that someone put just a new chain on that I can see just from the picture shouldnt have. http://sigs.gamecommunity.co.uk/files/new/A4TDi4.j...
If you look at the teeth at 1 oclock and most noticably at 7 oclock you can see they are not simetrical, look how you might draw a wave in the sea, rather than a prefect triangle. This is a worn gear and will be noisey again soon.
Hope this makes scence I just got back from the pub so it could be a bit iffy.
Get back to me if you need any more help/advise , but please keep me out of the campain to show up Audi, especialy if you're really going to whatchdog etc.
The low oil level sensor it the one right on the bottom of the sump, small black connector. You can access it with only the undertray to take off. Is just along the harness from the A/C compressor and the N/S electric engine mount. Make sure there all pluged in and it should go out.
IF there is any doubt make sure its not the oil pressure light and dont run the engine until you KNOW its got oil pressure. If you dont have an oil pressure gauge, You can crack off (undo a turn or two) the turbo oil feed and then crank the engine on the starter or let if run for just a second, oil should come out under pressure.
Regarding Oil Hammer comments.
The ones that fail again after 20k are ones where people didnt inspect the bigger gear properly, like I said before if the teeth on the big gear are worn the new chain and the big gear will wear much much faster.
On one of the other forums there is another car that someone put just a new chain on that I can see just from the picture shouldnt have. http://sigs.gamecommunity.co.uk/files/new/A4TDi4.j...
If you look at the teeth at 1 oclock and most noticably at 7 oclock you can see they are not simetrical, look how you might draw a wave in the sea, rather than a prefect triangle. This is a worn gear and will be noisey again soon.
Hope this makes scence I just got back from the pub so it could be a bit iffy.
Get back to me if you need any more help/advise , but please keep me out of the campain to show up Audi, especialy if you're really going to whatchdog etc.
Yes it was the low oil light, I think, (I hope) the plug is perhaps the wrong way around. The chain was assembled OK, the oil was just below max. We got temperature up to 90 degrees and fan cut in and the power steering was activated ok I did 2 miles to home with car, this was risk but I assumed we had plug being the wrong way round and no major problem!!!!!!!!.
Perhaps wishful thinking as i had to get home as on holiday tomorrow. Car will be parked up for 1 week and i will be away from home. Will have a look more closely when I get back.
In terms of your picture this is interesting, I have had a a few tins myself but will compare my pictures to this one when I get back. Oil Hammer said it is hard to tell if top gear is worn, we thought ours was OK but we have now experience. Will post picture when back and when I know how.
How do you post pictures on this site anyway?, will try to upload a week on Monday if I find out.
Perhaps wishful thinking as i had to get home as on holiday tomorrow. Car will be parked up for 1 week and i will be away from home. Will have a look more closely when I get back.
In terms of your picture this is interesting, I have had a a few tins myself but will compare my pictures to this one when I get back. Oil Hammer said it is hard to tell if top gear is worn, we thought ours was OK but we have now experience. Will post picture when back and when I know how.
How do you post pictures on this site anyway?, will try to upload a week on Monday if I find out.
Just for info.
My 43,000 mile FSH 2005 2.0 TDI BLB oil pump chain tensioner has failed, just like the pictures earlier in this thred, Snapped the plastic arm in half.
This is on a 43,000 mile driven with care by the wife!! Not like my 10 year old Mitsubishi 3000GT which is still 100%!!
The engine is totally fu**** on the Audi, big-end scored to hell due to lack of oil and the wife not stopping in time (it's a blond thing!)
Trying to get replacement engine. This will be the last Audi I ever buy as a known fault has not been recalled by Audi UK.
Wot a s
t engine design for this so called quality car. Sorry audi your Crap!!
My 43,000 mile FSH 2005 2.0 TDI BLB oil pump chain tensioner has failed, just like the pictures earlier in this thred, Snapped the plastic arm in half.
This is on a 43,000 mile driven with care by the wife!! Not like my 10 year old Mitsubishi 3000GT which is still 100%!!
The engine is totally fu**** on the Audi, big-end scored to hell due to lack of oil and the wife not stopping in time (it's a blond thing!)
Trying to get replacement engine. This will be the last Audi I ever buy as a known fault has not been recalled by Audi UK.
Wot a s
t engine design for this so called quality car. Sorry audi your Crap!! Hi, People might like to know that replacement sprokets and chains are available from Powermax Engineering.
The kits are available from their website: http://powermaxengineering.com/
or from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-AUDI-2-0-TDi-BLB-ENGINE-O...
The cost is alot less that the revised Audi balance shaft route.
The only other thing that I would recommend is to change the oil pump drive shaft(03G 115 281 D) if you carry out a repair with the above parts.
Gromit
The kits are available from their website: http://powermaxengineering.com/
or from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-AUDI-2-0-TDi-BLB-ENGINE-O...
The cost is alot less that the revised Audi balance shaft route.
The only other thing that I would recommend is to change the oil pump drive shaft(03G 115 281 D) if you carry out a repair with the above parts.
Gromit
hi dude new to the forums
ok i have a blb engine and yes got then oil presser low pants
so ok i stripped it all down replace the oil pump / back seal / tenisor / cam sensor / crack sensor / new turbo
ok all is well but i get oil presser and that all looks all good but the thing just crack over and will not start i tryed replacing then cam sensor that it told me to on snap on diag tool but this made no different
this car will start if ya spray easy start up it for a few secs just to test then car timing is right any ideas y this car will not start the battery did go flat and the key still work and remote locks and unlocks the door i have tryed everything this car was running before i did the work any idea
ok i have a blb engine and yes got then oil presser low pants
so ok i stripped it all down replace the oil pump / back seal / tenisor / cam sensor / crack sensor / new turbo
ok all is well but i get oil presser and that all looks all good but the thing just crack over and will not start i tryed replacing then cam sensor that it told me to on snap on diag tool but this made no different
this car will start if ya spray easy start up it for a few secs just to test then car timing is right any ideas y this car will not start the battery did go flat and the key still work and remote locks and unlocks the door i have tryed everything this car was running before i did the work any idea
hi guys,
I have a 54 plate 2.0tdi.
I have experienced all the problems noted above, after 4 months my independent mechanic managed to find a kit similar to the one advertised earlier. Which we managed to replaced the cog on the end of the crank, we also replaced the small one on the bottom and the chain and the tensioner, the oil pump the cam belt the water pump.
Now heres what happened, after circa 150 miles the chain broke and punched a hole in the casing. back to square one....!!! the company concerned are telling my mechanic that the parts have been fitted wrong. The mechanic is going to put right, but I am interested to know how two cog and a chain can be fitted wrong? Obviously to an amateur fairly easily, but I have had a look at the engine and honestly cannot see ho this can be wrong!!
Any thoughts, please......?
I have a 54 plate 2.0tdi.
I have experienced all the problems noted above, after 4 months my independent mechanic managed to find a kit similar to the one advertised earlier. Which we managed to replaced the cog on the end of the crank, we also replaced the small one on the bottom and the chain and the tensioner, the oil pump the cam belt the water pump.
Now heres what happened, after circa 150 miles the chain broke and punched a hole in the casing. back to square one....!!! the company concerned are telling my mechanic that the parts have been fitted wrong. The mechanic is going to put right, but I am interested to know how two cog and a chain can be fitted wrong? Obviously to an amateur fairly easily, but I have had a look at the engine and honestly cannot see ho this can be wrong!!
Any thoughts, please......?
Hello All,
Recently acquired 2005 ( Dec model) A4 avant ( 101,000 miles). Now in garage and having great difficulty in getting it back on the road again ( and close to pulling the remaining bits of my hair out in despair!).
Oil pressure failure has been diagnosed due to failure in oil pump balancing shaft. turbo blew as result. IMy engine is BLB engine WAUZZZ 8E 6A059502 Advice suggested to me:
(a) Acquire Modification kit + Turbo ( cost approx €3000 + labour) or
(b) replace engine entirely (€1300 + labour) but be sure that it's a later engine model to avoid same issues down the line again.
(b) looks like best option as it is less expensive and avoids any risk under (a) arising from secondary engine damage sustained at time of oil pump balanacing shaft failure.
Problem is to source an used engine with the "spur gear drive "as opposed to the "chain drive" that is in my damaged engine.
Can anyone offer simple or straightforward engine identification that I can give to engine dismantlers so that I know I am getting the "improved" engine as opposed to simply getting same type of engine that had the design flaw in the first place?
Is there an engine code i should look for that readilly indicates that it has "spur gear "and not "chain drive"?
I was told that all BLB engines have the same design flaw ( i.e. chain drive oil system). Is this true?
Someone else told me a BRE engine from 2007 onwards will solve my probelm. Is that accurate?
Can someone help a thoroughly browned off audi motorist who is the subject of a lot of seemingly conflicting advice!
Thank you.
VincentBrennanirl
Thank you.
Recently acquired 2005 ( Dec model) A4 avant ( 101,000 miles). Now in garage and having great difficulty in getting it back on the road again ( and close to pulling the remaining bits of my hair out in despair!).
Oil pressure failure has been diagnosed due to failure in oil pump balancing shaft. turbo blew as result. IMy engine is BLB engine WAUZZZ 8E 6A059502 Advice suggested to me:
(a) Acquire Modification kit + Turbo ( cost approx €3000 + labour) or
(b) replace engine entirely (€1300 + labour) but be sure that it's a later engine model to avoid same issues down the line again.
(b) looks like best option as it is less expensive and avoids any risk under (a) arising from secondary engine damage sustained at time of oil pump balanacing shaft failure.
Problem is to source an used engine with the "spur gear drive "as opposed to the "chain drive" that is in my damaged engine.
Can anyone offer simple or straightforward engine identification that I can give to engine dismantlers so that I know I am getting the "improved" engine as opposed to simply getting same type of engine that had the design flaw in the first place?
Is there an engine code i should look for that readilly indicates that it has "spur gear "and not "chain drive"?
I was told that all BLB engines have the same design flaw ( i.e. chain drive oil system). Is this true?
Someone else told me a BRE engine from 2007 onwards will solve my probelm. Is that accurate?
Can someone help a thoroughly browned off audi motorist who is the subject of a lot of seemingly conflicting advice!
Thank you.
VincentBrennanirl
Thank you.
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